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I have no interest in these except being a satsified buyer These lifejackets are around £270-£300 new, and this chappie is selling them for £40 inc 48hr delivery. Vaccum packed and unopened. I have had some from him in previous years and they are excellent lifejackets. (ordered another one from this batch) Designed for 'offshore' use for people in heavy Winter clothing they have almost twice the buoyancy of 'standard lifejackets' and exceed the MCA requirements for 'turning you face up' Have a chin support to keep your mouth out of the water (and a hood to stop waves going in your mouth or up your nose) Have crutch straps so they don't slip over your head. Twin chambers each having enough buoyancy to keep you afloat. The offshore industry 'cycles' its stock even before the expiry dates - they have 2 years left (typically 4/23) before they are due for commercial re-certification, and will last for years in leisure use. It is probably cheaper to keep them for 3 years and get some from a future batch than it is to have a lifejacket serviced. Ideal for wearing when 'Winter locking' on icy surfaces. I'd recommend them even for 'muddy ditch' usage. https://www.findafishingboat.com/lifejackets-crewsaver-275n-twin-chamber-new-unused/ad-114225 https://www.crew-safe.co.uk/acatalog/Crewsaver-Seacrewsader-SOLAS-275N-Twin-Chamber-Lifejacket.html The Seacrewsader 275N Twin is designed to SOLAS 2010 regulations, and outperforms the new requirements to provide increased performance in the most demanding environments. Improved body angle, mouth freeboard and face plane angles make the Seacrewsader even safer at sea. Together with the improved rotating times each chamber is fitted with two 60 g CO2 cylinders, activated by UML MK5i standard automatic inflation mechanisms* - and a 3.5 psi relief valve to ensure full buoyancy during single or double chamber inflation. The Seacrewsader 275N Twin is designed for extreme working environments and is also suitable for abandonment purposes. The high buoyancy level provides added protection when heavy work gear and clothing is worn. The new, more compact cover is a robust fabric to withstand the most arduous conditions without damage to the lifejacket and internal bladders. Crotch straps come fitted as standard.

I'd say the coal vs wood thing is a red herring. Somehow, somewhere combusted gases are escaping your stove into the cabin. If this was my stove I would stop using it IMMEDIATELY. CO is extremely dangerous and I can tell a story about a relative semi paralysed by it dragging his unconscious family outside (they fortunately survived) if that will encourage you. Once I had stopped using ANY fuel in the stove the next thing I'd do is work out where the leaks are emanating. I keep smoke bombs for this purpose (available from chandleries). Any one of the rope seals could be the issue - the fact that smoke escapes the door suggests that that's the problem - I'd have replaced these on the strength of your newspaper test! Depending on the stove there might be seals in the actual body of the stove. It is expensive but necessary to recondition your stove and replace all of these seals eventually. I personally would blank off the mushroom vent that is near the chimney. Another possibly cheap/easy fix to improve the draw and get the exhaust further from the cabin is a longer chimney. I'm not as experienced as the other posters who have replied and perhaps I'm more paranoid than they are, but I would not mess about with a stove. Test for leaks, replace all the ropes, block off any ventilation near the chimney, use a longer chimney, and yes clean the flue out regularly.

So your few months of living on the cut makes you an expert to add to your vast list of professions? You condemn those living in a "cheapo" marina as having a "bad track record" Your attitude madam is some of the very worst kind of prejudiced and hypocritical I have ever come across!

I dont know what the processor on my rasp pi is doing any of the time.?

I met one of the trip boats out of Birmingham (something 4 awhile) in a tunnel with two big lights on it, as we got closer he turned them both off, I wondered where he had gone to.

Finally got around to sitting in front of my computer and writing some code for the home made BMS which I’ve attached to the CALB cells. Well, just one set of cells ie 200Ah which is plenty for the moment. Firstly, pleased to see that the voltages of the 4 cells are within 2mV of each other as supplied from China. Secondly, wow the internal resistance is so low! Adding my power supply to charge at 5A (which ok is not much in the context of 200Ah) only increases the cell voltage by about 3mV. Amazing! I will have to be careful to ensure clean contacts etc for the interconnects, otherwise there is a good chance that the interconnect resistance will be more than the cell resistance! And also wrote the code to operate the Tyco BDS-A battery disconnect relay, which as we know needs a pulse of around 75mS to operate. It takes about 3A and having a longer pulse or worse, somehow leaving the 12v applied, will no doubt melt the coil in short order. So it’s important to have a robust pulse generator. I know that MP created some dedicated hardware for it but for me it was just 7 lines of code. And 4 of them were to turn off low and high priority interrupts (to ensure the processor wasn’t distracted doing something else) and turn them on again afterwards. Then just 3 lines of code, 1) turn on the MOSFET, 2) wait 75 mS, 3) turn off the MOSFET. Easy Peasy! Does demonstrate the advantages of using relatively low tech like a PIC or Arduino whereby being in total control of the processor, vs say a Raspberry Pi with a huge linux operating system whereby you don’t really know what the processor is doing half the time.

Confusion with the boat's chimney?

Just found this thread, and joined canalworld! I worked on the Soar job at its inception, and continued for most of the long hot summer. The biggest problem was the mechanical unloading... Despite having an absolutely superb 360 driver, (Alan???), the shuts were in a terrible state pretty quickly. This led to gravel getting packed solidly into the bilges, and on more than one occasion, a sharp corner puncturing the hull. A time of my life I wouldn't have missed for anything, despite the relentless work and less than ideal conditions. "Shirley" was steered by a wonderful bloke called Ralph (Mould/Moulds???), who had worked pairs for a fair proportion of his life, and who lived on a houseboat down the backwater at Thurmaston Lock. "Whitby" was steered by a hilarious character, Barry from Brum, who's humour and friendship were much appreciated. I often stop in the area if delivering nearby, and walk down Mill Lane for a reminiscing session on the lock bridge. Ive got a painting somewhere of WYE in Thurmaston lock, which John West did for me a couple of years later... I'll post it if I dig it out with the xmas deccies!

This ^^^^ tells me that it's been neglected badly, because if the owner can't be bothered to do the blindingly obvious when they're trying to sell the thing, or maybe hasn't the knowledge or skills to do so, you can't possibly believe it's been otherwise well maintained. Find yourself a boat someone has loved and cared for.

I now use central heating inhibitor with antifreeze included in my Eberspacher - most central heating inhibitors don't have the antifreeze, so choose carefully. Previously I'd used pink 5 year vehicle antifreeze, which was fine but, whilst the antifreeze stays good, the inhibitor gets used up over those 5 years so it then must be changed. You could add more inhibitor, but the difficulty is ensuring it's compatible. With the central heating stuff, you know exactly which central heating inhibitor is compatible, so you can top it up as needed. Be aware that antifreeze doesn't carry heat well, so don't over do the strength. It also layers in a heating system which can hinder the flow, so pre-mix it before adding it to your system. Oh, and I use deionised water too (as I do in all my vehicle cooling systems) - some may think this an unnecessary precaution but it's cheap enough.

Thank you the crowdfunding page is heading around wrg via facebook.

On this day in 2015 Icknield Port Road Wharf Loop Line

On this day in 2005 Approaching Braunston Turn from Napton direction Compare #1380 (1975) #1710 (1988) #818 (1997) #4096 #4097 (2008) #1985 (2012) #2008 (2017) #2151 (2019)

My experience, together with conversation with other boaters with BD3s, was that boatbuilders tried to get away with a 20 x 20 prop when, in reality a 22 x 22 should have been specified (or at the very least 22 x 20). I found that with the original 20 x 20 prop the only time when the engine sounded to be under load was when the washing machine (drawing 2 Kva) was operating whilst we were cruising. Having sat behind the engine in its Ford 3000 tractor guise, for many a happy hours on a Cornish farm, I had a very good idea what it sounded like throughout its entire duty cycle!! In the interests of best performance, taking account of the clearance between propellor tip and Uxter plate (which if I remember correctly needs to be greater than 10% of the prop diameter) Crowthers specified one of their 'High Performance' props but weren't keen to elaborate much further. It of course did the business and, bless 'em, they let quietly me trade in my almost new prop (a detail that I can now share as they have indeed ceased trading). A fantastic company to deal with and I've had cause to use their services since. A sad loss to the waterways in general ........... and BTW I know at least one trawler owner was ranked amongst their customers.

I owned an old Harborough with a couple of those fitted 25 or so years ago, they were old even then. Worked well but caused much condensationstuff.

I wonder if the target time will shift in light of the change in target for cars recently announced by the PM

Ivan, don't ever change! Well, curb a few of your whacky ideas maybe, but certainly not your enthusiasm or your adventurous spirit! i really don't like the idea of night cruising (or tunnel transits) with powerful lighting is all but, whilst I will give you my opinion or offer advice for what it's worth, I'm certainly not here to beat you into submission. There's plenty of folk doing stuff without considering others or seeking advice where they could use it, but you're not one of them. i don't know about the orthodox solution, but I'd offer that night time is a bit like the weather when it comes to cruising: wonderful on a beautiful moonlit night; rather less so when it's as black as your father's hat. Do it when conditions are favourable, sit by a cosy fire when they're not. How's that grab you?

Definitely Mould. Myself and my partner at the time spent hours with him and his lovely Wife. Just sitting on the bank of the backwater and discussing literallty, life, the Universe and everything! Great times

2 to 3 kW is the power required, depending on the hull, water depth and so on. No consumption when you are in a lock, unlike a diesel engine. Multiply that by the number of hours you cruise for the kWhrs you'll need from the battery. <pedant> Watt is a unit of power, not energy, so watts per hour isn't meaningful</pedant>

For which we are thankful!

Your halogen tunnel light, typically 55w, will draw something like 5 amps. If your alternator can't cope with that, you really ought not be cruising in the daylight, let alone the dark! They won't be visible behind your proposed LED headlights but, even if they were, Navigation Lights allow sailors to judge the course of other vessels: the only thing you're doing on a canal when making way is coming towards or going away. The blinding loss of their night vision and the pain their retinas will tell other boaters of the former and an overwhelming feeling of relief will tell them you're going away. If there are going to be occasions in your cruising when COLREGS apply, fit some, but not for the purposes above and not mixed with powerful LED headlights. Unless you have a battery powered boat, there is no energy saving justification for LED headlights lights when cruising, either in a tunnel or in the dark. If it's high power illumination you want, there may be a selfish case to make, but it's one which will find little sympathy among competent, considerate boaters, I'd have thought. You asked for recommendations for bright LED headlights, so here's mine: do something else with the money.

This one justifies a visit and if it appeals, a full survey, with the potential purchaser in attendance and ready to put down the cash on the day. If the hull is sound, then get all the other liveaboard necessities sorted. To me this means: Two means of heating Plenty of solar Plenty of good batteries. One or two good invertors A boat which has good electrics A boat which has a BSC. Decent water capacity. No rust, no water ingress. Evidence of ownership Bill of Sale, plus some recent receipts, otherwise it could be stolen or be owned by someone else, or subject to a debt.

If you can afford to buy at London prices you can afford the rail fare to visit a selection of good boats in and around the middle of England, or where there is a cluster of boats. To help us out, give us a clue, are you going to try to constant cruise in London with or without a car, or bike, or using public transport? I am assuming you want to liveaboard all year round. Do you have a mooring? Have you considered this? Do you know that there are very few marinas or moorings with residential planning permission for residential boats. You will be lucky to find a marina which will 'give you a postcode' Boats are expensive to run, and need maintenance. Don't think you will be investing your capital. You will need to generate your own electricity, heat, and find water. Dispose of your own sewage. Neither of the boats you have shown would appeal to me, neither of them are 'good boats' imho. If you have spent a lot of time researching, and come up with these two, I am perplexed.

" Being a few inches wider than than the standard narrowboat makes a noticeable difference" This in the advert for the Springer, is a worry, if the boat is over 6'11" wide there will be the possibility of problems on narrow canals. The route discribed is all wide locks, where this would not show up. All told there are difficulties with this boat. Bod

The scentific way. If the filler goes straight vertically down into the tank make a floating dipstick. You will need a slim longish float, ''a pike fishing float should be ideal'', It's what I used to make one for someone with the same problem. You will also need a longish thin stick, a tube of Araldite Rapid and a reel of cotton. Grasp hold of the stick and float and bind the narrow end of the float to one end of the stick with the cotton. Mix up the Araldite Rapid, ''Hermetite now make it'' and neatly smother the cotton with it and keep twiddling the stick round until the Araldite sets enough so as not to drip. Set aside to cure. With low water in the tank pop the wonderful float stick into the filler with the top of the stick sticking out. Enter the hose pipe into the filler alongside the float stick and push it well down. Make sure that the float stick is free enough to rise, fiddle with the hosepipe to allow this. Depending on how much water is in the tank the float stick might be starting to float. Turn on the tap and with a torch peer down into the tank to see the level. When the float has risen and you reckon that the tank is full enough without leaking into the boat. Turn of tap and mark the float stick with red paint level with the rim of the filler orifice. Withdraw hose and floatstick and above the red danger mark on the stick paint about 3 or 4 inches of yellow paint as a warning that the tank is getting full. Whilst the tank is filling watch that floating dipstick like a hawk and when the yellow warning mark starts to appear watch it like an Owl even closer, and be ready to whip the hose out. The Scientific way. The Special unpatented homemade Float stick gauge. Professor Bizzard.

All the talk seems to be of electric power. The aspect of hydrogen power and fuel cells seems to have been not mentioned. There is a boat on the Worcester & Birmingham Canal which has that type of power. It is by Birmingham University.

The blurb states " Can be hard to start in cold weather " loosely translated this means " Its knackered and will not start " and also why is one glow plug missing and easily fixed of they have supposedly maintained it well? Its a LOT of money for an old springer an you can do better.

I would suggest that if what you say is true Mr Gregory may not be the best source of information re canal boat painting because he has, probably unintentionally, given you incorrect information. The vast majority of canal boat hulls are blacked but for a number of years the tar based blacking has been made unobtainable unless some old stock can be found. Most of the blacking is bitumen based with increasingly two pack backings becoming popular. The cabin sides, roof, etc and often above the top guard (rubbing band) are painted. The majority with oil based paints that are brush applied but sprayed and two pack alternatives are becoming more popular. As for the hull blacking. Unless the boat stays moored up in the marina for 100% of its time it is impossible to avoid bumps and scrapes so whatever coating is used the mechanical damage needs addressing regularly. Although two pack is more abrasion resistant that ordinary bitumen based blacking it will still get damaged so instead of hauling out every two years or so for pressure washing off and re-blacking a two packed boat needs it every five years or so - maybe pushed up to 10 years. However the steel perpetration for the popular two packs involves blasting and for maximum longevity expensive hot zinc spraying of "undercoat" or the application of zinc rich paint. All this is expensive and the fact well looked after boats well in excess of 39 years old are still perfectly serviceable despite only having bitumen blacking to many suggest the extra expense of "modern" hull protection can't be justified. As far as topsides are concerned many boaters, especially of older boats, paint the boats themselves. Often canal side in the open air so sprayed two pack, or even sprayed one pack is not a suitable choice. Single pack oil based paint has been proven to be the most likely to give acceptable results. Professional painters who have access to heated covered wet docks are starting to offer two pack and/or sprayed painting but apart from sprayed new builds I get the impression its still the minority. For many boaters who can afford a professional repaint a traditional hand painted look is important so that again tends to indicate an oil based single pack paint. I hope this helps you understand the market. I am some kind of engineer, not a painter but it is what I see around the system. PS - I don't follow links from posters with little history.

OK, I'll bite. They are mistaken! Cool White colour LEDs will dazzle/destroy night vision more than warmer colour temperatures such as Warm White LEDs or most incandescent bulbs. It's not the fact it's an LED, it's the colour temperature of the light it produces. Admittedly most cheap LED units are Cool White (because they are cheaper to produce) but it's blaming the wrong thing. The current fad for very blue-white halogen bulbs in car headlights is currently being investigated for a proposed ISO standard because of this effect.

Can't see its anything whatever to do with being LEDs. Doesn't matter whether they are tungsten, halogen, fluorescent, sodium or anything else. They are all just as dazzling if they are too bright and poorly angled.

No, not for the electronically challenged unfortunately. The point was not really that such things are feasible for non-electronic people, just that for me it is easier to do that than to use the circuit posted by Wotever. That said, lots of people get into Arduino programming. The entry point is relatively simple but it takes a lot of investment of time to become proficient especially if you have zero prior programming (coding) experience. It is fascinating though (in my opinion!)