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nicknorman

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nicknorman last won the day on July 3 2021

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About nicknorman

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aberdeen
  • Interests
    Electronics, gliding, motorbikes
  • Occupation
    helicopter pilot - retired
  • Boat Name
    Telemachus
  • Boat Location
    Fazeley Mill Marina, Tamworth

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Community Answers

  1. Just travelled Braunston to Hillmorton, no fat boats in sight.
  2. Could be. Since the tacho is also going right down and up at the same time as the lights, and the tacho is (normally) fed from the engine alternator, it superficially looks like an engine alternator problem. Beta uses a 6 diode machine for engine alternator, if Isuzu is the same, loss of battery supply on the IGN terminal shuts down the alternator, but that doesn’t explain why the other alternator light is coming on. There is a reported discrepancy between alternator and battery voltage, if it were not for that I’d suspect the multi-way connector
  3. Both alternator lights are rhythmically going on and off, not quite in phase. And one is much brighter than the other.
  4. Can we assume that alternator 1 and the first voltage readings are for the starter, second ones for the domestic? Anyway, the main point is that with the engine running, the voltage across the alternator should be more or less the same as the voltage across the battery. So if Alternator 1 is at 14v and the battery at 13.2v, there is a bad connection somewhere. With the engine running, check the voltage across the alternator B+ connection and the battery positive, and then between the alternator negative and battery negative. This will reveal where the voltage is being dropped - in the positive or negative wiring. Then it will be a matter of tracing that wiring to see where voltage is being lost. For example, a battery isolator switch. I think you are over-complicating. Did you look at the video? The alternator warning lights are flashing and the tacho is fluctuating, so nothing to do with oil pressure or overheating.
  5. We hear this sort of thing on here quite often, but no one ever says who their examiner was. Why not? Fear of being sued for libel? You cannot be guilty of libel if your point is true, and it seems pretty clear cut that it is not a BSS fail item to not have an RCD.
  6. The control panel won’t beep because a battery is low. It beeps when one of the warning lights comes on (low oil pressure, high temperature, alternators not charging). In this case the alternator warning lights are going on and off. You can see that the tacho, which is fed from the engine alternator, is also fluctuating in synchronisation. I also note that the engine voltmeter looks to be showing an excessively high reading, although the camera angle isn’t great. I think it will be difficult to diagnose remotely without further testing / evidence, but maybe someone else has a good idea?
  7. I’m sure that when the canal and lock flight was built there were lots of people complaining about how the rural ambience had been ruined. Point is, things change with time.
  8. Oops I missed the wide beam bit, ignore most of what I said! I’d go with Colecraft. Well no, actually I’d buy a narrowboat! Wide beams are pretty hideous things, it is all about maximising the inside space with no concern for aesthetics. At the very least I’d buy a Dutch barge style, not a fat narrowboat style. Well that is my opinion, anyway! Not that you wanted it!
  9. Depends what you mean by “better”. As has been said, there is a huge price range and you tend to pay more for a bespoke boat. Bespoke boats can be good and bad - bad if you are a first timer and have lots of “really good ideas” that don’t work in practice. I’d look at Alexander, Fernwood, Tyler-Wilson, Braidbar, Finesse. And then for the more bespoke top end stuff, Dave Harris, Brinklow etc. Your question is a bit like “which car should I buy” when the range is from a Bentley, Lamborghini to a Smart, Hyundai i10 etc.
  10. Of the makes you’ve listed I go for Colecraft. Possibly slightly bland but they have been building boats for decades and I haven’t heard of a problem one. Collingwood is low budget with a reputation to match. Heard some bad things about Bluewater. Aqualine are ok but IMO not great value for money.
  11. I’m sure you are right in general. Stuff from china varies from excellent (eg an iPhone) to absolute rubbish (lots of plastic tat) and all shades on between. It was a bit of a risk going with the supplier I did, but the general impression was good. Stuff arrived on schedule, extremely well packed, no hidden taxes etc to pay. But yes I doubt the quality control was top notch, just more or less adequate. And in the context of that cell, less adequate. Still, the other 11 are doing fine and this one is now fine for the time being at least.
  12. Agreed. Keeping a close eye on it. So far so good… trouble is I doubt I would be able to source 1 cell, I’d need to buy 4 which would be £600 or so 😪😪
  13. yes certainly when measuring small voltages, dissimilar metals and temperatures can cause issues. In my case it was very repeatable, I measured the voltage between nut and bolt/copper strips several times, for each electrode of each of the 3 cells in the group. Every time for the 5 cells the voltage was a few mV, for the one cell it was repeatably 200mV or so during charge. When charging stopped, the 200mV gradually fell to near zero over a minute or two. And the symptoms perfectly match a (relatively) high resistance connection. All this was repeated after I’d removed all the connections from the rogue electrode, checked for cleanliness, signs of over heating etc (there were none), partially tightened it, wiggled the mating surfaces around a bit so they rubbed against each other, then fully tightened. Identical results were then obtained. I agree it seem impossible/unreasonable, but it was what it was!
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