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nicknorman

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nicknorman last won the day on August 29

nicknorman had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aberdeen
  • Interests
    Electronics, gliding, motorbikes

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    helicopter pilot - retired
  • Boat Name
    Telemachus
  • Boat Location
    Fazeley Mill Marina, Tamworth

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  4. Of course another possibility is that someone did steal your pins. And someone else then came along and helpfully tied your boat up to the only thing available - the offside trees.
  5. Yes it’s easy to think that someone did a bad thing to you, but the reality is that it could be that somebody did a good thing for you. If your boat came adrift and someone felt they should re-tie it, perhaps the only option was either to donate their own stakes, or tie it to something available ie the trees on the offside.
  6. Yes, wiring issue or possibly the battery isolator switch. If the alternator fat positive (B+) wire goes via the isolator switch before reaching the battery, I think the battery isolator switch is the most likely culprit. Anyway, you need to trace back from alternator to battery to see where the voltage decreases. As a first step I’d check the voltage between the B+ alternator terminal and the battery +. There should be next to no voltage between them but you might find the missing 1.15v. Then repeat between alternator case or B-, and battery -. That will at least tell you whether the problem lies in the positive wiring or the negative wiring.
  7. nicknorman

    Wind power

    It depends a lot on where you moor. Wind turbines are not much use on most canals because they are sheltered by trees, hedges etc and anyway the wind near ground level is usually light or gusty and variable. Plus they can create a noise and vibration nuisance. If you are moored in a wide open windswept place then maybe. But otherwise I think the money is better spent on more solar.
  8. I think you will need to post a picture of it (or several) for you to have any chance of a satisfactory answer. Beta 4-cyl engines have been around for many years with many different types of alternator fitted. As to the point about car part dealer, you would need to take it to an auto-electrical business, which is not the same beast as a car parts dealer.
  9. I’ve had it happen once, crossing over the supermarket trolley haven at the bottom of the Ryder’s Green flight. I was fortunately going slowly and in neutral, but the tiller still went hard over despite me trying to stop it.
  10. Ah yes I’d forgotten that the CD4000 series can be run from a 12v supply. But on the standby current, the regulator im using for the battery monitor board uses 3microamps with no load, and a small pic put to sleep uses around 1 uA, so less than 5uA altogether, which is orders of magnitude less than self discharge and general leakage of a large Li battery. But actually I’m not sure it has to be powered the battery side of the isolation relay. The board’s function is to disconnect the relay, the connecting bit can surely be done by a manual push button - at least in my case, where the disconnect is an emergency situation only, not part of routine battery management.
  11. I used to do a fair bit of VBA programming. At age 63 I learnt to programme in C. You are never to old to learn new tricks, it just takes longer!
  12. No, not for the electronically challenged unfortunately. The point was not really that such things are feasible for non-electronic people, just that for me it is easier to do that than to use the circuit posted by Wotever. That said, lots of people get into Arduino programming. The entry point is relatively simple but it takes a lot of investment of time to become proficient especially if you have zero prior programming (coding) experience. It is fascinating though (in my opinion!)
  13. You don’t really need an in circuit programming header if you use a non-surface mount chip, you can programme off-board and subsequently solder or plug in the micro to the application board. You do need the compiler (free) and the programmer (not free, but a 1-off purchase around £80) and a pc. You do of course need a 3.3 - 5v supply and a FET or suchlike to boost the output (max 25mA or so) to drive the Tyco. About 20 years ago I had a Subaru with central locking but not remote locking. I got a Maplin keyfob remote system which pulsed a relay when you pressed the keyfob. I made (on veroboard in those days) a circuit with 8 pin PIC and 3 relays directly driven by the PIC, one for lock, one for unlock, and one for the indicators. The code alternated between pulsing the lock and unlock relays, and flashed the indicators either once or twice according to lock or unlock. It worked flawlessly for about 8 years until I scrapped the car. Much, much simpler and cheaper than trying to do it with discrete components/logic gates/555 timers etc
  14. One 8 pin PIC, no resistor, no capacitor, less complex.
  15. Ouch - Windlass on painted roof! Chiperama! Rustification!
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