Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


nicknorman last won the day on October 6

nicknorman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3747 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Electronics, gliding, motorbikes

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    helicopter pilot - retired
  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location
    Fazeley Mill Marina, Tamworth

Recent Profile Visitors

17840 profile views
  1. I’m struggling to see what’s going on there, any chance of a few more pics from different angles and distances?
  2. It’s a bit confusing! The manual implies no changeover and yet the photo shows mains wires in and out. Is it possible that someone has somehow installed a changeover relay inside the inverter? Maybe you should take the bottom cover over the connection area off and have a look (post a photo).
  3. I edited my previous post to add some detail.
  4. Well I suspect because of slightly different resistances of the 0v wire of different cables and in particular the connectors thereon. Which gives the clue as to what is wrong. One problem is that you are dealing with a shunt that has a very small resistance. It is designed to drop 50 or 75 millivolts at 500 amps, ie the resistance is 0.0001 ohms. A normal multimeter can’t distinguish between a direct connection and that sort of resistance in a circuit. The problem will lie in one of the various 0v or shunt wires, and there are only 4 of them. I’d depower the MICC and disconnect those wires one at a time to check for continuity, ensure connection surfaces are clean and bright. And connected to the right places as per the diagram! (Yes I know you have checked it, but confirmation bias is a powerful thing!) We are talking about the wires on MICC pins 2,3,4 and 6.
  5. Fair enough. Did you read the only post on this thread that addresses your issue? Thoughts on the matter?
  6. No. Wow some people (well two on here) seem quick to take offence. If you actually read what I said then clearly was absolutely not applying to you. The exact opposite in fact. But maybe you enjoy being offended, it seems a popular pastime on here? Anyway I have gone to considerable effort to explain to you what the problem with your system is. You don’t seem interested in that issue, only the possibility that you might have been slighted. I’ll leave you to your incorrectly wired system. Enjoy.
  7. I didn’t say I was referring to you. It was a general point. But on the other hand, if the cap fits...
  8. If you are an actual boater, not just some floating flat dweller who grudging has to move to keep CRT off their backs, then there is no rush to charge the batteries. A nice 8 hour cruise is plenty of time. Charging batteries more quickly shortens their life.
  9. I would say the issue is to do with the negative (0v) wiring of the MICC and or shunt. In other words, the equipment hasn’t been installed correctly. When you connect the RJ12 lead you are creating an additional connection between the 0v of the MICC and the 0v of the Combi. These of course should be at the same voltage ( 0v) and hence it shouldn’t make any difference. But if the MICC negative supply is connected to the wrong side of the shunt or some such other error, there will be a slight voltage difference between the two negative connections when current flows. I suspect that this slight voltage difference is causing current flow through the additional 0v connection (the RJ12 lead) which is what is causing the problem. I suggest checking the MICC wiring very carefully, for compliance with the MICC manual’s wiring diagram. In particular check that the ONLY thing that is connected to any domestic battery negative terminals (apart from each other) is the battery side of the shunt, and the single wire that is the shunt battery side sense wire ( to terminal 4 on the MICC). Also be sure that the domestic battery negative terminals are not connected to the engine battery negative. There is definitely a wiring error somewhere!
  10. Well it is called “elastic search” so it can’t be too surprising that the elastic breaks regularly! Ping! There it goes again.
  11. But obviously it depends on how much current one intends to stuff in and out. I can charge at 275A and discharge at 200A or so, so it will be important to minimise connection resistance. It would not be hard to be in a situation whereby the connection resistance is more than the internal resistance of the battery. And resistance, at a couple of hundred amps, equals a lot of heat.
  12. So my question is, should the bank be assembled with some sort of goo on the connections (after having cleaned them to bright) such as vaseline or proprietary terminal paste? At the very least, to keep corrosion at bay.
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. It depends on what you want to do with it! If you are mostly on shore power then over a 24 hour period your average current drain is unlikely to get anywhere near 10A, and thus a 10A charger will keep your batteries topped up. If you want to arrive at a marina and charge the batteries, or use a generator to charge the batteries when out and about, you want one that will charge as fast as possible so it would be the 30A one. Compromise is always best - go for a 20A one!
  15. nicknorman

    Washer dryer

    The point about venting cabin temperature out of the boat is of course true, but then boats need lots of ventilation anyway so I practice I don’t think there is any significant loss, especially when it’s for less than an hour. But anyway I don’t think it costs any more in energy - the fire doesn’t suddenly burn more coal as a consequence, but possibly the cabin temperature is reduced a bit. When we are tumble drying in winter we do it when cruising and we have the option to switch on the engine-to-central heating heat exchanger to get additional “free heat” (free in that it would otherwise be dumped into the canal). And being a trad, the back hatch is open which gives a lot more ventilation that a tumble drier! No doubt all that helps to keep the windows clear. Anyway I totally agree with you that heat pump driers are much more efficient, but that isn’t the whole picture. I would rather consume more energy and have the clothes come out ready to wear or fold away, vs having them come out with massive creases baked into them that a hot steam iron and lots of elbow grease struggles to fix. Have you ever actually used a condenser or heat pump tumble drier? I have (condenser) and they are awful!
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.