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nicknorman

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Everything posted by nicknorman

  1. Yes travelpower plus charger is a good way to charge lithium. I just sound a small note of caution - we have a travel power and a Mastervolt Combi including 100A charger. However, whilst I get 100A for a while, the Combi heats up and the current gradually decreases. About 65A continuous is as much as I can get, and that is with the device in the engine room (well ventilated). I’m not entirely sure there isn’t a problem with one of the fans, but anyway best to check that you can actually get a continuous 120A from your charger. One bodge you can try is to insert a long length of wire between domestic alternator and batteries (appropriately fused) so that the additional resistance reduces the current to avoid overheating the alternator. Or of course use a proper alternator controller! You should be able to charge at at least 1/2 C without shortening the life of the batteries, so if you have say 600Ah you could happily charge at 300A if the charging system can supply that. The aim of course being to minimise the static engine running time. Depending on the domestic alternator you might get another 100A or so out of it.
  2. Yes I’d say it will give you a fairly good approximation. Errors will arise because the fixed power drain of the charger (ie the mains power consumed even when the output to the batteries is zero) will not be the same as the fixed drain from the inverter, and any ac loads powered by the inverter will suffer conversion losses which doesn’t apply when the ac loads are powered direct from the mains. You say “most of our use is 240v” but it’s not clear what you mean by “most”. You could have 100 phone chargers plugged in not doing much, or one tumble drier on for a couple of hours. And the latter would use a lot more energy! But anyway, if you work out the daily kWh from the meter, and add 10%, you are going to be fairly close and it’s never going to be an exact science. It can be helpful to work in kWh rather than Ah, saves having to change units! so for example we have 600Ah of Li, voltage around 13v, say 90% of that is “available” so we have about 7.8kWH available, Of course it is not so much about how much battery capacity you have available, it is more about how to replenish what you’ve used. If we used 7kWh in day, that would take a lot of solar and/or engine running to replace! I suppose another thing to bear in mind is whether your daily practices will be the same off grid as on grid. For example, you might keep the immersion heater on 24/7 when on shore power, but off grid water heating will at least in part be catered for by engine running (assuming you have a calorifier) or diesel (if you have a Mikuni/Webasto/Eber thingy). You might use an electric kettle on shore power, but switch to gas when off grid. Etc etc.
  3. Oh yes, didn’t notice that. But ‘twas not me who resurrected a 4 year old thread!
  4. Just on the suitcase generator thing, and since you are a novice and no-one has spelt it out, petrol vapour is a bit like gas in that it is heavier than air and thus tends to collect in the bottom of the boat (bilges) where it could cause an explosion. So be very careful with storage and use of petrol. For example, never refuel a generator on the boat, always do it on the bank, and make sure any containers are totally leak-free. And never run a generator on the boat, always run it on the bank downwind of the boat, because of the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning
  5. 2 and 3… Some parts of the N Oxford are difficult to moor against, due to sloping stone sides, and there is also a busy railway immediately adjacent in some parts. But there are some parts that are moorable especially South of All Oaks. Tricky to moor between Stretton and Ansty IIRC. The stretch of canal between All Oaks and the bridge you mention, is at first piled (the visitor moorings) but as said, it can get full early. However the bit of canal after that up to the bridge, is deep at the sides and you can get right in. It just means you are on stakes. We moored there (beyond the piling) last month and it was fine. Oh and plus one for the Greyhound.
  6. I have always been a fan of the big names, Mastervolt and Victron. But that said, I put a SunshineSolar inverter into my caravan about 4 years ago. It doesn’t get a huge amount of use but it has been flawless so far, and the quiescent current is quite low at about 1A for the 1500w model. Which I note is currently on special offer for cheap-as-chips £199. https://www.sunshinesolar.co.uk/Category/PureSineWave12V
  7. if there are multiple boards, you could try disconnecting and reconnecting the boards, on the premise that a slightly corroded inter-board connection might be the problem. Just unplugging and re-plugging internal connectors can help wipe any tiny layer of corrosion off the contact surfaces that would inhibit data and other low voltage signals.
  8. It’s because despite changing attitudes, there is still a not-small contingent of british people who are homophobic, and a smaller contingent who are quite happy to voice that and demonstrate it by physical attack. Why not have a heterosexual pride thingy?, part of the answer is that people don’t get verbally abused, beaten up, killed, thrown out of the family home etc because they are heterosexual, but all those things still happen because people are homosexual even in 2022. And that is just in the UK. In other parts of the world, these people can be unemployable, imprisoned or executed by the State. The gay pride thing is about normalising being gay, that it is nothing to be ashamed about, and is a normal subset of humanity, always was and always will be. The aim being to make it less socially acceptable to be ostentatiously homophobic.
  9. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  10. If the gas locker vents are too low, blocked off and new ones cut a bit higher, I don’t think putting some paving slabs in is acceptable. The basic aim is to prevent any gas pooling at the bottom of the gas locker and paving slabs are not going to totally eliminate air space below the vents. It is not about how high the gas bottles are, it is about not having any space below the vents. Plus, if and when water does get in, it won’t be able to drain, it will sit around the paving slabs and rust the locker base until it is holed and gas can fall through into the bilge. That point alone seems to be being “glossed over” and as such it would ring alarm bells.
  11. Yes you just need to blunt the trailing edge of the blades with an angle grinder. I’m sure you could file it through the weed hatch but it would be a horrible job. Best to take it back to where the prop was fitted and ask them to sort it.
  12. No. Lots of airlines provide in-seat usb charging sockets, especially business class seats. You are not allowed to put Li batteries into checked-in (hold) luggage.
  13. It comes back to the differences between different sorts of lithium batteries. You allude to this of course. The Boeing ones were of course not LFP so not relevant to an LFP installation. My concern is that articles such as the one cited, don't seem to consider the safety variations in different types of Li battery, when as we know there are in fact massive differences. But I'd disagree with your last point, a small LiPo etc battery can and does go on fire, and in a mostly-wooden narrowboat interior, this can set fire to the whole shebang just as much as a large propulsion bank could. In fact probably more likely, because the large propulsion bank probably (hopefully) has better monitoring and protection than some dodgy gadget from the cheap end of China.
  14. Insurers cannot just decide not to pay out for something on a whim after the event. They have to pay out unless the cause is excluded in the policy terms. Far too much catastrophisation and scaremongering (when any actual logic fails) is applied to arguments eg "Oooh but the insurance might not pay" when in fact this is complete codswallop. Insurers are of course bound by the terms of their policies, otherwise there would be no point in having insurance.
  15. Unless an insurance policy specifically excludes boat fires caused by lithium ion batteries, and assuming the policy does cover fire risk, then the boat is covered in the event of a lithium fire. Let’s face it, 99% of boats have eg a mobile phone or tablet on board and any insurance company that declines to cover that risk is unlikely to get much business. Recent inland boat fires have all been caused by conventional means, mostly solid fuel stoves. So fires from lithium ion devices on board does not represent a significant risk compared to other things. And the article doesn’t mention the huge difference in risk between the different types of lithium batteries. LiPo is quite unstable, LiFePO4 is not. LiCoO2 combusts in a self-sustaining way (produces its own oxygen, and is therefore really difficult to extinguish) whereas LiFePO4 doesn’t.
  16. Yes it’s a shame there were no details about charge and discharge characteristics, / voltage profiles / max charge and discharge currents etc. I’ll be sticking to LiFePO4 for the time being!
  17. Another option would be crane out and store on hard standing, but I’ve no idea if this could work out cheaper. But at least the risk of it sinking is reduced! And you don’t need a licence if you are not in the water. eg this one, just as an example : https://www.northkilworthwharf.com/services/mooring-hardstanding/
  18. Yes I know, you are correct, but bearing in mind human nature, someone will see 30psi, not bother to read it properly, and just set it to 30psi. There is a difference between being technically correct and precise, and communicating with humans. Especially boaters!
  19. Yes that should work. Don’t forget to drink the beer first.
  20. My point is that the individual metal connector pins (wire on one end which has fallen off, socket on the other end which mates with pins on the alternator) can be pushed out of the connector block. You can then solder the wire back on again and re-insert the connector pin. In my earlier post I presumed a circular pin but it looks like they are flat pins/sockets (like a mini spade connector). However the principle remains, you can insert a removal tool to push the locking tab back, then push the metal bit out. This shows the general idea, just a connector pin I found on the internet, not your specific one. When pushed (left to right) into the housing, the little tab I marked with a red arrow, folds slightly to pass an obstruction then locates the pin because if you try to pull it out again, the harder you pull the more the tab is jammed out. But if you insert a thin sliver of metal from the front it can hold the tab flatter allowing the connector pin to be withdrawn again, tab passes the obstruction without hitting it. You might be able to fashion something suitable by eg cutting up a feeler gauge into a long thin narrow tool.
  21. I think that due to the limitations of most boat calorifiers, fresh water pumps are usually much less than 45psi cut out, more like 30psi. So if the above advice is followed it’s likely that the accumulator will remain empty and contribute nothing to the party. In my limited experience cut in pressure is not much over 1/2 cut out pressure and around 17psi, but of course this will vary with pump / pressure switch model. It can of course easily be measured by pressurising to perhaps 10 psi, then turning the pump on with a tap partially open so that the pump cycles. Because the accumulator air pressure must equal the water pressure, as the pump cycles the cut out and cut in pressures will be revealed by observing the accumulator air pressure. Having turned off the pump an opened a tap, the accumulator air pressure can then be set appropriately. Since total precision isn’t likely, IMO it is better to set the pressure a couple of psi low, which means the accumulator never quite empties and smooth flow prevails. If the accumulator pressure is slightly high it means that the accumulator fully empties, water pressure momentarily drops to zero, and there is, in theory at least, a momentary interruption of flow whilst the pump starts up.
  22. It’s a pretty standard way that any connector works on anything from boats to vehicles to aircraft. As you say, there is a pip (or tab) on the connector pin that locks it in place. If you want to release the pin you insert the appropriate tool which is effectively a thin tube that goes over the connector pin, this pushes the tab away from the plastic body and the pin can be pulled or pushed out.
  23. Hot in at the top, cold out at the bottom. Same as for a skin tank. Is there another (sensible) way of doing it?
  24. Alright mr. pedant! but I think the text after the sentence you’ve quoted, and the context of the thread, made it clear I was talking about radiators with both connections at the top.
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