Jen-in-Wellies

As others have said, the current limit will depend on fusing, wire, current draw and acceptable coltage drop as well as the connector. If you do decide to change the sockets, then there are others to consider aside from 5A round pin. As long as they will take the current and there is no risk of being confused with mains sockets, then you have some choice. I originally used car 12V, fag lighter style sockets, but thought them flimsy and easy to dislodge. Changed them for 2 pin Speakon sockets. Usually used for audio equipment, bit can take 40A. I don't have any audio equipment that uses them, so no risk of blowing something up! The plugs latch in, so very secure. Jen https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speakon_connector

Zooming in on the pictures in the link. The four pin device near the input pins at 7'oclock is a bridge rectifier, so it doesn't matter which side is positive, or negative. It also includes over voltage protection, and protection from voltage spikes, which is the main thing for boat use. The LED supply chip is in the six pin package at around 2 o'clock. Googling the characters on the package and a variety of alternatives show nothing, so can't say what range of of input voltages it can cope with. This and the unhelpfulness of the vendor to me says go elsewhere. I agree with Phil ^^^^^^, buy from Bedazzled. Also agree with first reply. It would be very dim. Plenty of brighter ones around. Jen

What about the blue string clamp release fee? 😀

A bit of experimentation of single vs insulated flue. http://www.tigerboats.co.uk/images/forum/insulated-flues.pdf The result they give is counterintuitive. It might turn out to be wrong, but an answer you don't expect should always give one pause. Jen

The argument for double wall insulated flues is that they help the fire draw better by keeping the flue gas warm. Flue gas has to be warm so that its density is low and will rise in the flue. The rising gas is what draws fresh combustion air in to the stove through the vents. It is claimed that stoves with insulated flues can be stopped down lower and so use less fuel without going out. There is some stuff online, which I am too lazy to go search out of a proper experiment with the same stove and under identical conditions other than the flue, which demostrates this. Boat stove flues are generally a lot shorter than is recommended in the house installation destructions, so anything to help it draw has to be a good thing. Relative surface area of flue to stove is not so significant as the temperature of most of the flue will be a lot less than the stove. Radiation of heat is something like the fourth power of absolute temperature. Convection less so, so the loss of surface area is not as important as people think the argument for insulated flue goes. My stove has a single skin flue. If I was installing new I would seriously consider insulated. Have some vague memory that insulated may be required for a new build to RCD standard, but that would need to be confirmed by someone knowledgable. Jen

Will they stand up to being used as a chisel? If you already have a chisel, then it can also be used as a screwdriver, so no need for these posh screwdrivers at all. Jen

Useless! 😺

Must admit I am a little paranoid about running aground on the tidal Trent. Below is a picture of what I had on the roof on one of the early trips, locking up at Keadby with a widebeam. The Trent Chart, a Nicholson's, a GPS and a VHF radio. I marked the chart with grid reference kilometre marks, based on the Nicholson's Ordnance Survey 1:25000 maps, so I could use the GPS to find the position again if I lost track. In practice, the Trent is a lot less featureless than I had assumed and it is usually possible to work out where you are. These days I don't bother with the GPS, but I still have the Trent Chart out. It is on a plywood base with a perspex cover held on by a couple of bulldog clips so it doesn't blow away, or get wet. Jen

Borrow a cat! Seriously. Mice get very worried when they can smell a cat around and will want to be elsewhere. My sister had a problem with mice in the attic of their house. Borrowed my elderly, arthritic, non-hunting cat for a couple of weeks lazing on the sofa and the mice moved out. Jen A younger and more energetic cat will be more proactive, but will leave you clearing up bits of mouse corpse off the floor.

Did they get there from the Trent Bridge direction, or by going over the weir at Beeston? 😀

What us non boaty people call a deck head apparently. 🚢

The highest point of each tank will need a vent, or they won't fill, or drain. There has to be a way for air to get out and in, or the tank won't fill, or empty. Connect top to top of each tank to a single vent, but no down slopes as Boater Sam says. Easiest to set up would be entirely seperate vents on each tank. As long as the top of the under bed vent is significantly higher up than the top of the under front deck vent, then there is very little chance of water being vented in to the cabin from sloshing, or over filling. Will go out the lower under deck vent for preference, then overboard via the scuppers. Suggest taking the under bed vent top almost up to ceiling level. Jen

Welcome back. Can you post some pictures of your system? Ideally a diagram showing pipe runs, pipe lengths, diameters and radiator sizes, valve and pump locations as well. This would really help us understand what is going on and save a lot of time. I've re-read the thread and still don't really understand how your heating circuit is plumbed. Just a an example, here is one we did for a former neighbours boat after we sorted out some problems it had with circulation around the header tank and calorifier region. I've removed the boats name. It doesn't have everything, pipe sizes lengths and the radiator valves. This boat had a Squirrel stove heating a calorifier a towel rail and a radiator via a pump and was toasty warm through the winter. My boat also has a Squirrel, calorifier and two finrads, but is gravity circulated and again is toasty warm. Jen

Difficult to say, but it is possible to do some sums to see. If you can measure, or find the likely volume of water, you can estimate the size of header tank needed. For example, a run of 15mm OD, 13mm ID pipe running down each side of a 20m long boat would contain 5.3 litres (0.65cm*0.65*pi*4000cm/1000). Add on the volume of water in all the radiators, inside the Webasto boiler and half the volume of the expansion tank, or however high up the normal level is in the tank. You then need to multiply it by the temperature rise when the water is heated up and the volume thermal expansion coefficient of water. Water is weird stuff and its volumetric thermal expansion changes with temperature, getting higher as temperatures go up. For safety, take it at the high end, 80C, where it is 0.00064 per degree. Again, for safety and making the sums easier we will put in a temperature rise of 100C, more than you would get in reality. The amount of expansion for just the water in 40m of 15mm pipe is 5.309*0.00064*100 = 0.34 litres of expansion. Add in the extra expansion for all the rest of the water in the system and see if the volume of air space in the header tank above the normal water level is greater than this. This is all erring on caution, using high end estimates and takes no account of the rise in pressure in the system, which will reduce the volume required. This is just the expansion you would get with the tank cap off and ensuring that it doesn't spill out the top. Hope this helps, Jen

When you buy a boat, they won't be included.