Jen-in-Wellies

The areas at bow and stern where they are attached aren't usually insulated inside. Anodes part way down the sides, if fitted, could be a problem for the internal insulation and if they were sunk in to steel pockets to protect them, then screw stud mounting would be a good idea. Jen

Interesting. Wondering if the lift on the rudder could actually lift it out of the bottom bearing cup on the skeg with the design used on Piper shells. Jen

I'd forgotten that thread. Contributed a bit to it as well, especially the advice about hitting it with a big hammer! Surprising how many of life's problems that solves... So it is a Piper boat, similar to mine. Not sure if it is one of David's, or Simon's if from 2002, but the design of rudder is identical. Piper boats swim and steer pretty well, so it makes me wonder if there is something else going on, other than a rudder problem with @Carl123's boat. Jen

Is this a steel narrowboat/widebeam, or plastic cruiser? What are you travelling on when you see it, shallow canal, or deep canal/river? How fast are you trying to go? On a shallow canal, trying to go too fast just sucks the back of the boat down, creates more wash and you don't go any faster. May even slow you down. Apologies if you know this already. Jen

Not seen that one before. Where, when, how? Jen

Got to be angry. A happy grinder won't take your fingers off if you lose concentration for a moment. Think this: Rather than this:

You could try some of the things Tom Rolt did to get his boat up the Llangollen in the late '40's. Plane off the high points of the wooden hull, grease the rubbing strakes, rig up a block and tackle. Drive in to the lock at full speed and hope! This was at Grindley Brook, rather than Hurleston. The only changes would be to substitute an angry grinder for the wood plane and maybe a tirfor for the block and tackle. Jen See the third part of The Clouded Mirror.

I looked through the private boat BSS requirements and there is no mention of multistrand cables anywhere. Am I going nuts? I am sure they used to specifically ban single core. Has it changed, if so when? Please help my poor and inadequate brain. Also, no mention of Arctic cable for mains wiring, so presumably twin core and earth is now OK, provided it meets the other requirements. Were all these things in the RCD requirements, rather than BSS? If so, then not applicable to a non-RCD boat. The only requirement on cable size is for heavy current loads with the 25mm2 minimum. I know BSS is all around safety, so a failed electrical circuit is not a concern, but an on-fire, or shock hazard is and the requirements seem to be all around this. Fusing, isolators, location, passing through bulkheads, terminals and so on. Jen

And cutouts in the steel stiffeners to let any water drain to the stern. What is the boat?

Where are the beer cans left lying around?

IF you haven't seen it already, the complete BSS requirements for private boats can be downloaded here. A lot won't apply to your boat. Go through it methodically and if there are any questions then please ask here. The electrical system you have is relatively simple, so replacing the dogs dinner that is there with something that complies shouldn't be as bad as it at first seems. Jen

Not having paint/blacking behind welded anodes shouldn't be a problem as they are the best protected bits of hull on the boat! Shielded from contact by the anode. Shielded from corrosion by the very close proximity cathodic protection of the anode. What @hider says. Wouldn't bolt through due to the sinking risk if the bolt failed, but would weld a bolt on, in which case you might as well weld the anode anyway as your paint is already burnt. Jen

Shirley a Dunton Double is two of them, so you should already have a spare? Jen 😀

It doesn't say, but I'm guessing that is the inside of Stanley Ferry lock gate making building. Jen

CaRT did put some new gates in the lock right? Right?