jonathanA

Takes me back .... as an apprentice I had to don leather apron, gloves and goggles to top up batteries like that. And switch them from float to charge at regular intervals too.

We have the older coal brook dale version without the top vent. I do find I need to seal the joints between the sides / top from time to time. Door seals are an obvious and fairly frequent replacement item. I ve had problems on other stoves with the top / clear glass vents not closing properly or not being obvious which way is open or closed. Wonder if there is a way of temporarily sealing the top vents ?

Have to say that red cable looks rather thin to me. It should be at least 16mm Csa and preferably 25mm it looks about 4mm. Is their no other thick red cable that’s hanging about? It might be worth checking the engine/alternator are connected to battery negative. Put your voltmeter between the battery -ve and the b- or body of the alternator and their should be 0 volts (or very small reading )

Blooming spill chucker....😉

I’m sceptical that the boat blacker has equipment accurate enough to detect 0.3 mA difference. He’s probably assuming his Digital multimeter is 100% accurate ! I’m also not sure how there can be any earth leakage if the GI is properly installed and working. This suggests to me that there is a fair degree of BS baffling brains going on. i be inclined to treat it as a red Harding for the time being

I take you have tried the little blue toggle switch? I’d be slightly alarmed at the poor quality of the electrical installation so def worth getting the manual and wiring it up properly and presumably adding a timer and thermostat would improve your comfort too!

I think your saying it’s the RCD on the boat ? If so what’s connected. Might be worth unplugging everything to see if that stops the tripping. Never easy if it’s intermittent tripping....

Most of the companies that hire the sentry box toilets have the capability and I would look for companies servicing septic / cess tanks we used to have a local farmer who would empty septic tanks and spread on his fields but don’t think they are allowed to do that anymore ( I think he did mix with cow/pig muck first)

You would kind of hope a new boat would be using leds anyway. But for those who can’t buy new (like me) it could be a big issue.

Actually I think one of the big advantages of LED lights IS the low power consumption meaning a bit of bell wire will do to connect them (exaggeration before the forum police get in a tizz). I have a quite low powered one , less than 10w replaced the 55w halogen car spot lamp, but it is a warm white one rather than a blue/white one, so a more yellow light the midland swindlers durite unit at 1700 lumens is OTT, I haven’t checked but I’m guessing it’s probably a work light for a tractor or lighting the back of a flatbed truck.

To the OP craft master far superior to Rylard in my opinion based on using both. I can confirm they are compatible, I have painted one over t’other both ways without problem. Crsftmaster is more expensive but goes on better and gives a better finish in my experience but in fairness I’ve only used it on my boat so not based on years of use or anything !

But you can roll it in glitter.. i really wouldnt want want to use a wet and dry vac for real black water.... <shudders>

Where are you Arthur ? it sounds like a two minute job for some one with a crimp tool.

Ahh so now we are talking a fibre connection at the pontoon ? Even 5G is not going to beat fibre speeds, well not once the likes of BT are forced to take the shackles off and provide fibre to the home. Think I’m wrong have a look at B4RN providing full duplex 1GB fibre for 30 quid a month...

Yes a bit 20th century why would you want to ?