jonathanA

yep think its failed the turing test..

very true Alan - me neither especially as I don t drink vodka. 🙂

Actually what I picked up from the lindy lou report (apart from the tragic circumstances) was that the fitting of a smoke detector would undoubtedly have saved a life and that was borne out by the findings of the west midlands fire service who had also dealt with a number of boat fires. I was less than convinced by the report, that pyrolysis was a significant factor.

depends @truckcab79 most 'boat stuff' like fridges or pumps come with bare wires or connectors for your bare ended wires. most 'Car accessory' stuff like laptop chargers will most times have 'cigarette lighter' type plugs which you can either use (not very reliable) or cut off and fit your own. of course a lot of stuff comes with USB charging these days so having some USB charging points is probably increasingly worthwhile. if i was starting from scratch i would use round pin mains plugs and sockets (2A/5A) for anything 'portable' (and 12V) as they are readily available, properly designed and economically priced.

and Felix Reeves is a lazy journalist whose articles are simply put utter CRAP - poor click bait even by click bait standards...

oh yes very clear on the title deeds that its up to the canal bank and CRT don't dispute that, just between them and the local LPA they try to impose conditions. As the LPA consults CRT for any planning application bordering the Canal, don't know if thats a statutory thing or just something particular to my LPA.

I think this is largely urban myth. I can only speak from my own personal and direct experience of owning a parcel of land with 60m of offside canal frontage. There is no ransom strip. who is responsible for maintaining the 'bank' is not at all clear - CRT try to imply its the landowner (me) except they then try to insist that I submit details and pay them to authorise any work on the bankside. In my case simply installing wooden decking (not requiring any support from the canal bed or anything like that). Most of my neighbours just do it/have done it and ignore them.

🙂 Yes all right ... mains/drinking water .. although the clue was "canal side" and its a usable canal in water 🤪

Maybe he's right - I know of some canalside plots in the North that are going for in excess of £100K. They do have mooring rights and water laid on.

There seems to be a changeover switch for the voltmeter on the domestic switch panel, which whilst not ideal would give another indication. unlikely to be unless you have a generator either on board or on the bank. Do you have mains electricity available wherever you are moored? If so, are you or can you plug into it? If you don't have a generator running and aren't plugged into a shore mains supply then you need the inverter to supply 240v. That's potentially a source of the battery issue you have if the inverter is running 24x7 and maybe powering something power hungry. The inverter is converting your 12v battery to 240v "mains"

thank you, I agree with Booke23 - looks like the alternators are both working. I would try the stove with the engine running in case it was a flat battery issue and also check any fuses in case its a blown fuse stopping the pump working (if its still not working) Could any of the switches that are 'off' be the reason the pump isn't running ? i'm assuming thats the start battery voltage - would be interesting to know what the other voltmeter shows when switched to 'engine battery'. really needs a proper multimeter/voltmeter on the battery to be sure. but as there doesn't seem to be a problem starting, getting some heating is probably the more urgent issue

this assumes of course that he boat is wired up as most (but not all) are and that the 'green light' is on the engine control panel and not on a charger or inverter or some other equipment. might be helpful to confirm the engine details and/or post a pic of the engine and control panel (where the green light is) so that relevant advice can be given. if the voltage when the volt meter is switched to 'domestic' (as per your picture) and the engine is running, does not change then as Tony and others are suggesting it would point to a problem with that alternator or its wiring.

start with the basics as Jen is suggesting. it seems like you have no problem starting the engine which could mean you have a twin alternator set up, one charging the engine start battery and a domestic one charging the domestic batteries. Any warning lights on when the engine is running ? can you see the alternator(s) and are the belts driving it/them in good condition? your currently showing the domestic battery at less than 12volts, what is the start battery reading and what are these readings with the engine running ?

I laid some wickes 12mm laminate, it can cope with some small imperfections on the subfloor because you need to lay it on top of some sort of underlay (some thin some thicker/more insulating). having laid laminate before i completely under estimated how different it is on a boat ... no straight walls to start from, so spent ages working out a centre line and working from centre out contrary to 'accepted practice' . (pic when nearly finished) its been down for nearly a year and i'm quite happy with it. Easy to keep clean (sweeping brush/mop) even with me and my muddy boots and muddy dog paws...

have a look at machine mart - i'm not their biggest fan but they have some self priming pumps capable of pumping 'dirty water' (not the submersible ones !). I saw one used as pumpout machine at a marina near leeds and thought it did a great job. (similar to the one you linked to but a 1/10 of the price) ) I have a similar issue and am currently thinking a 12v macerator pump as used on RVs/motorhomes might do the job.