jonathanA

Looks to me like you are over firing that stove. Shouldn't need anything like that, above gunnel level but looks like scorching? Is that a double skin flue or a 6 inch Job ? If my stove was running that hot I'd have to have the doors open...

Yes they are worth the money, but don't think you are getting top quality superbly engineered stuff. They are the usual Chinese copies with chinglish instructions. My experience of aftersales was excellent. Had a problem with an air tool, emailed them a picture of the receipt and a replacement arrived in the post from Germany. No faffing about. You do need proof of purchase though.

Plus say another £25k to de-whitfield it and give it a decent look.

I've seen wood fired hot tubs. Could be an option. Also diesel fired heaters for those garden pool could work. Those electric hot tubs typically have a 4kw electric heater and a couple of big electric pumps. Usually need a 20A supply. There are smaller hot tubs that can run off a 13A socket.

No a simple enclosure won't protect the toggle. It would need an enclosure with some sort of cover or lid. Personally I would want a din rail mounted breaker in an enclosure but its not essential in this case. There is some bollox in this thread I have to say.

Unless you intend to mount that isolator on the roof then you don't need waterproof glands. If it's just going to be inside the boat nr the controller I would just push the wires through the hole. Ideally you would fit a 20mm rubber grommet to protect the cables from chafing but not really a problem with a plastic box and tough solar cable.

OK if the breaker you are resetting does not have a test button then we must assume it is an MCB (overcurrent device). See bods post. Look for the rating of rhe breaker it will be on it. Typically 16A but could 10 or 6 or something else. Given the intermittent nature it could be that you're getting close to the limit of the breaker buts it's taking a while to actually trip. Or maybe you have a couple of things that switch on and off by rheselves fridge, immersion heaters that sort of thing and if one or more happen to switch on at the same time they may be the cause of the trip.

I think the old adage applies... if something seems too good to be true.... As an aside there was a Dr Who episode where cars all had an atmos device fitted, which later turned out to be part of an alien plot to take over the world by the sontarans.

I think this is the crux of the issue. Managing volunteers is bloody hard work, even more so if the manager trying to manage volunteers is an employee. If a volunteer doesn't do what crt want, what redress have they got ? What's to stop the volunteer turning up with his windless anyway.... very hard and I suspect crt haven't learnt that yet...

I've never felt the need to have to have a water or diesel gauge. The Mk I eyeball being good enough. But on the black water tank that would be a god send. (MCS do those too)

I would open the plinth or otherwise gain access to, and then disconnect the buzzer. If the noise stops then you can do as chewbacka suggested and track down what's causing the issue. I'd fire the engine up and see does the sound stop or come on more loudly ? Maybe one of the warning lights is glows dimly with the engine running ?

Yep that's what I referred to before the shining wits (as the revd Spooner would say) jumped in, using something like this and special t shaped nails (cleats) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://smithshire.com/products/secret-nailer-porta/&ved=2ahUKEwiHiOb_vJT6AhVuSEEAHaEPAAAQFnoECAoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2R9kGkzlO_p88MePutBTHR