Psychalist

I haven't tried it but know people who really rate it. A popular application was the Greenspot cycling jacket. Unfortunately it is another great British invention like Pertex that is now owned and manufactured abroad - in the case of Ventile, Switzerland IIRC. Another garment maker targetting a similar market is Hilltrek in Scotland. They have a range of products made from Ventile (similar prices but also colours other than khaki). Typically used by ghillies and forestry folk who have to endure that Scotch mist.

Which makes it very effective for removing stuck seat posts out of steel bike frames. 😉

Like most diagnoses, even medical, there are often lots of questions as there can be many possible causes for similar symptoms. Loss of coolant seems to be one that has many potential causes. In your case, Peugeot106 has highlighted one with the exhaust manifold and the other being the head gasket (one easy to remefy, the other less so). Do you know the history of the engine? Has any work been done on it? I ask because the cylinder head bolts on these engines are 'stretch' bolts, i.e. once torqued up to the specified torque, they should not be re-torqued or re-used. In my case, re-used bolts progressively caused the head gasket tension to slacken and allow exhaust gases into the coolant channels. This could vary depend on which bolts slacket. I think first priority is to determine if the coolant loss is significant and sustained as Tony advised and then check that exhaust gasket as Peugeot106 suggests. This isn't always easy - in my case the progress of my gasket problem was slow and only showed up when cruising, at first when working hard and then more and more even when cruising slowly but never when moored. Stick with it, you'll get there. Good luck.

Pictures tell so much more don't they. It's interesting how the different installations of these engines vary. There seem to be quite a few variants depending on application. In your case the header tank and air filter are swapped compared to mine. In terms of coolant expansion, you might expect a larger variation depending on the season and size of your skin tank (and whether you have the cap on). Mine typically ranges the nearly the whole volume of the tank but this is only when working hard, i.e. cruising at a reasonable speed, not idling. Because the vent pipe from the exhaust manifold comes into the expansion tank under the pressure cap, it does mean when at 1500 rpm or above, it is pushing coolant across the bottom of the cap inside, which if venting due to expansion, means some coolant gets expelled and ends up in the bilge. keeping the level much lower and warming up slowly appears to be the only way to avoid this without having a separate header tank.

Try Darwen Diesels. I got one from there. I believe their mail order is efficient and will take orders and advise over the phone.

Upward. Condensate drains out, avoids canal water getting in. /G

I had a s similar experience at aa HI-FI and audio fair in Harrogate in the 70''s I thiink the kit was quite high end, Nakamichi IIRC. The key was to listen on headphones and the more dynamic the better (big cans), The two demos I heard were the walking around one, in this case a female coming up and wispering in an ear, and a recording of Concorde taking off recorded on the runway at Heathrow..

Radio Three 23:30 tonight: "Slow Radio - A moving home"

Rather appropriate for mooring on Ponds (of the Tony variety)

That sounds like what came with mine that I separated and made into a remote sensor (with a bit of cable). What does it read if you use that one, for example touching or heating it compared with doing the same with the remote one?

Strange. My MPPT came with a sensor srewed into the green connector. I wasn't expecting that and was anticipating ordering one if it was going to be useful. I soldered the litlle sensor (looking like this) to a data cable and ran it the 2-3 metres to the batteries and left it between two of them. It seems to indicate quite accurately the ambient temperature (I haven't had the batteries warmer than that).

Unlke many places that now close Monday and Tuesday, a band plays and there's a friendly relaxed vibe. Chris the owner has done an interesting refurbishment along the lines of an American diner, mixed with Star Wars and rugby themed decorations. Oh, and a choice of ales all good.

...and having charged her batteries cruising to Tod, the delights of a Monday afternoon in the Polished Knob await. It's a tough gig that Calder Valley.

The Epever XTRA controller on my setup has the equalisation set at 14.8v. I was at the boat about 4 hours after sun up (not that there was any here today) and the batteries were at 14.8v, so it appears this version of the controller does equalisation immediately after absorption at 14.6v. It was only pushing out 0.2A at that time. It completed the cycle shortly after I checked it and the voltage dropped back to a more normal level. I attempted to modify my controller parameters by using the USR setting but there only appears to be a common LEN option for both absorption and equalisation. I got frustrated with the interface and button pressing and wasn't confident of the correct result given the poor documentation, so left it on FLD rather than USR. The batteries seem fine and there was no sign of gassing or loss of liquid. The way to avoid the equalisation appears to be to set absorption and equalisation voltages the same and the LEN parameter to half the desired E.g. 60 so it does 120mins absorption. I might try this yet, but like blackrose, it's early days with solar for me, so still getting used to power available per day and season. I've only half the panels balckrose has and there wasn't much coming out of the panel today. With a fridge running, I'd probably have been in deficit, but it'll be sunny tomorrow no?