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About Kathymel

  • Birthday 03/22/1966

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    Fender maker
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  1. I was trying to comply with the instructions. If the instructions are over complicated, that’s hardly my fault. Thanks very much Tracey. Much appreciated.
  2. Good evening, I’ve just received a replacement R&D coupling along with instructions. Seems very straightforward except there’s no way of getting a socket on to the bolt heads to get the torque right. I can’t find a torque wrench that takes open ended spanner heads that doesn’t require me to mortgage the boat. So my question is, how important are the torque settings and is there a guesstimate I can use? Cheers, Kathy
  3. Thanks for the link, Alan. The figures you’ve quoted from appendix G are for unsealed batteries. If I decide on an interior siting for my ‘sealed’ batteries, I won’t be keeping them in an unventilated space, as I mentioned earlier, they will be ventilated to the exterior.
  4. Thanks Jen, I have a fair bit of moveable ballast in the form of steel bars and a great deal of wood on the roof that I’m used to moving to adjust my trim. Kathy
  5. Thanks for this, Slim. I would definitely need to split the bank as there isn’t sufficient height directly below the exhaust. I did think putting one forward of the exhaust would work, if I choose to go that route. I also wondered about increasing the lagging on the exhaust or installing a heat shield. Is there any any chance of a couple of photos of your set-up or perhaps some measurements to give me an idea of the clearances you have? Thanks again.
  6. Thanks. I have ‘sealed’ batteries. Are there ventilation specifications for them? Could you provide me with a link to the appendices, please? I can’t see them where I’m looking.
  7. The main objective has evolved as it’s gone along. The original need was to rationalise and shorten the cable paths. The current set-up is messy and illogical and the cables from the two separate systems are constantly crossing one another. The battery box is also in need of enlarging/replacement and the area around it needs a lot of work. Moving the leisure system to the other side puts it immediately below the fuse panel and neatens up a lot of wandering wires. The main battery fuse and isolator are currently situated at the rear of the bank, so moving them forward, even when on the other side will mean the cable run to the inverter is the same distance. All this remains true if I go with the under steps option. So, there is a lot more going on than just painting. ?
  8. Thanks everyone. My next question was was about ventilation and you’ve clarified it nicely. The old toilet tank air vent hose is still lurking under the bed. I can repurpose that.
  9. Well ok, maybe not a huge difference to where I was thinking of putting them, but the way the wiring is now, putting them inside would get rid of about 3 meters. Some of that wiring is way too thin and needs replacing, so every little helps.
  10. Thanks Bizzard. That’s not a bad idea at all. It never occurred to me to bring them indoors. One of the reasons I’m changing the layout is the unnecessary length of cables in the current set-up. Putting them under the step would make a huge difference to that.
  11. Thanks Alan, When I get a response, I’ll ask them. It’s interesting that there is no hard and fast rule though. I might have to do some temperature tests.
  12. Thanks Wotever, Common sense it is for now, then. ??
  13. I’m not asking people to guess what my BSS inspector’s opinion is going to be - until I get a reply to my email, it’s not even a given who that will be - I’m asking if anyone on here has an opinion. It’s fine if you don’t have one but, if you don’t mind, I’ll wait to see if other people have anything to say on the matter.
  14. Because he’s not due for a month and I thought someone on here might know.
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