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Tony Brooks

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Tony Brooks last won the day on February 20

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    Reading
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    Engineer/trainer/retired
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    Now boatless
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    n/a

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  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. Look back to Jan 15th on page 1 of this topic. I posted the table out of the manual Gearbox and reduction box use what the manual says. For the engine I am sure SAE20W50 oil or SAE 30 will do. API about SF. It won't need anything fancy.
  3. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  4. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  5. I was going to post a Michael Caneesq quote about moving the doormat, but thought better of it in case it upset anyone.
  6. My only comment is that with open cells you can use a hydrometer to check the state of charge of each cell, so in a day or two, once the acid and topping up water have mixed, if the cell readings differ by more than 0.030 across the cells then you have a faulty cell (Lucas said 0.025). If you get sealed cells then you can't use a hydrometer and boater testing involves fully charging, letting it sit overnight, then noting voltage, disconnecting, letting stand for a day or so and then comparing the voltages. Both should be almost the same. Some here have been bitten by an earlier vendor of lead carbon batteries, so are likely to be somewhat biased. Carbon can't alter the chemical processes in lead acid batteries like sulphation, but it may well mask it. especially with sub optimum charging.
  7. Right, what you did should have allowed it to self prime and when you take the faceplate off the pump me guess is that all the vanes will be correctly orientated with no significant damage BUT: This is a very old engine and the way the pump works puts side thrust on the shaft. I am all but certain that your pump has the shaft running in the metal pump body, hence the greaser. It probably has an oil/water seal under the wear plate in the back of the pumping chamber. It will have another seal at the backend of the pump body. If the body is worn, and there is a very good chance that is the case, and the seal is fitted backwards or is also worn then it won't prime because it can suck air down the shaft. Try filling the greaser and screwing it down as tight as you can. That just might seal the shaft enough for it to prime with a bit of a rev. With the impeller out, try moving the shaft from side to side, that may give you some idea about wear in the body.
  8. If @uncle nick posts some photos of the boat, there are members who might be able to give an informed guess at its age and possibly builder.
  9. And its series pair - the OP says it is a 6V battery (3 cells).
  10. I agree, and individual cells dryer than the others tend to indicate internal short circuits, and it seems to me it is the shorting cells that produce Hydrogen sulphide. Probably time for renewal.
  11. https://www.burtonpower.com/adjustable-alternator-tensioner-110-140mm-mp1295.html
  12. I don't think so, just stick with 1.5D stuff and avoid 1800CC info because although a lot is the same the injector pump drive and timing gear is very different. Manual - just ignore the 2.5 stuff http://www.boatservicehaarlem.nl/bmc_tempest.pdf
  13. If you are stripping it then there are free to download manuals online. At the back of the port side of the engine, below the exhaust manifold, you will see a large and smaller hexagon heads. The large one has the hexagon horizontal and a bit below that and a bit further back is the smaller one that is set onto a bulge in the casting, the face is vertical. The horizontal one has the strainer under it and the vertical one the oil jet, make sure they are clean and intact. This is a service item. If you are unlucky enough to find them clogged, then the camshaft and/or the injector pump drive gears many be badly worn. The CaRT number is not a very reliable proof of age, only the time the boat was registered with BW/CaRT. It might have come from a non-CaRT waterway at some time.
  14. A good bodge, except many 1.5 starters use a copper strip, not a disk and the plastic cover moulding would prevent a disc being fitted. I used to turn the strip over to get another good pair of faces and file the fixed contacts points.
  15. If that injector pump is original than that is a very old engine, early/mid 60s I would think. You do know about the injector pump drive oil jet and strainer, I assume.
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