Tony Brooks

If you reduce the voltage and thus current that can be pushed through most motors the motor speed drops. This reduces the internal varying magnetic fluxes that in turn have the effect of reducing the motor's apparent "resistance" so the current rises. A very common problem on water pumps.

Be aware that another design of alternator may well use ring terminals instead of blades. It would help if we knew what the other alternator was. MY guess is that you have one large ring and one or two smaller rings. The large ring is all but certain B+ - the + stud. AS Jen explained get the other two terminals and in turn connect a voltmeter between each terminal and negative/clean metal on the engine. The meter should read zero. Then turn on the ignition. I bet on one blade you will then get 12V if so very carefully tough the ring to the alternator body. IF the warning lamp comes on then connect that wire to the smaller of the triple blades and it should then charge. I expect the other ring will be for a revcounter wire if small even though you have no revcounter although wee can't be sure because some alternators, not this one, need a live feed as well. If its a large ring then its probably a negative.. If things don't work then connect it to a fixing bolt. Before actually doing that put a voltmeter between that wire and battery positive, If it is a negative the meter should read battery voltage.

Its an A127 and the two large blades are used on vehicles so one blade charges the battery while the other feeds the loads. This forms a junction that on a boat is often on the starter pos. It also reduces the current through each blade with high loads and a low battery. For marine use they fitted the stud B+ connection so the large blades and the stud are the same. Use the stud, the blades are likely to overheat and cause a bit of voltdrop. I think the aux is simply a blade riveted to the pos diode plate and on vehicles it was for a radio suppressor connection. The small blade close to the two large ones is the warning lamp connection.

The Godwin pumps we used were centrifugal pumps with a toroidal pressure chamber at the base with a wheel barrow sized inner tube as an accumulator. As you say lovely and reliable pumps but with three slight drawbacks. The motor shaft seal was a carbon ring and in hire fleet use they used to wear out and were not easy to fit. The impeller had a base on it and the small gaps used to clog with rust and grit. This reduced the flow rate and eventually had to be cleaned out. Perhaps the biggest problem was that they were not self priming but a good suck on an open tap usually sorted that.

This suggests not - diaphragm & valve kit https://www.wetroomsdirect.net/whale-shower-drain-pump-head-replacement-kit-sds071t.html The pulsed output also suggests diaphragm technology , however Whale may make other types of pump.

The one we had used light alloy base castings, the way it corroded I would not be surprised if it was not Mazac. In those days stain;less steel was simply not seen much apart from up market cutlery.

neither are the vast majority of domestic water pumps these days. The Whale is a diaphragm pump using one large diaphragm, the domestic water pumps are still diaphragm pumps but using three or more smaller diaphragms operating sequentially Many years ago there was a US single diaphragm domestic water pump that mechanically and electrically was very similar to the Whale. It had a box l;ke base that acted as an accumulator and that worked well enough until the base joints corroded and started to leak. That base had smaller volume than most accumulators on narrowboats so I am sure the idea woudl work.

The car body chaps at College rated something called Deoxydol (I think) but I don't see what is wrong with Vactan on a surface that has been prepped with a degree of diligence and used under the conditions stated by the makers. I do have some reservations about Fertan on horizontal surfaces but that is to do with washing all the dust and uncured product off.

If that is the case then either they do not remove rust from pits or they spend hours grinding a mm of the plate or, more likely, those who care about the job use a far more aggressive "professional use only" type product. Having suffered a £5000 20 years go "budget" job where it micro-blistered and rust was showing in a very few years I can well believe some do nothing.

I would want to know how the loose prop was diagnosed. At first sight a simple loose prop should have a fairly easy initial fix by tightening the nut to see what happens. If it won't tighten then something more serious is wrong. I am wondering if that 5 degree movement might be backlash in the gearbox or a loose coupling. If it is the gearbox that could be even more expensive. Its vital the OP establishes exactly where the backlash is.

New info - striped or patterned materiel. I would still lay it out on a computer because there is likely to be an awfully lot of waste. Actually I would choose a materiel that would be less wasteful

Have you made an allowance for the salvage edge (I think its called) that you allow on the side of the seams that go inside the cushion. I would think you need to add 10mm/1.2" to each seam for that so the 4ft x 2 ft cushion top becomes 4' 1" x 2' 1", same for the side panels and bottom. If it helps you can get two top/bottom panels side by side in 56" material with enough spare for one side panel (allowing for the salvage) For four cushions that is 16 ft (ignoring the salvage) plus whatever is needed for the side panels you can't get from the spare fabric to the side of the top/bottom pieces. 16 ft linear is about 5 linear meters of 56" wide fabric. Now my head hurts. I would actually use a simple CAD/vector art program to lay it all out on screen to see how it will all fit into 56" fabric. Beaton by Graham re the salvage.

or window to cabin side leaks

Does not copyright only last a limited time? I can't see S&W records not being time expired.

Are you absolutely sure about that? Some years ago we had a very hard winter with show frozen onto the roofs of our boats for a long time. A number of boats suffered micro blistering once the thaw set in, e4pecilly boats painted the previous summer. Our resident paint expert who also ran a well regarded paint company undertook an instigation and he fount that oil based paint is slightly porous so that when held against the paintwork water could and did penetrate the paint. If water molecules can permeate the paint film then I am sure oxygen ones can also. My own experience bears this out when lifting things like floor covering on steel decking that has water trapped under it. There always seem to be rust and that implies that both water and oxygen can penetrate a typical paint film (not talking about two pack and other exotic coatings here).