Tony Brooks

How much exhaust smoke or if wet exhaust diesel rainbow on the water while trying to start? Lots of smoke or large rainbow = fuel being injected. A few wisps of fuel of very small/no rainbow = no fuel being injected so look at how the stop system works. Probably a solenoid controlled by electronics to some degree. A stop solenoid being pulsed by a fault might ft your symptoms.

Sorry, I should have warned you before that you will need to find the revcounter instructions so you can match the counter to the engine. It may use dip switches or more likely tiny push buttons to set the speed. The rev counter does not know the alternator pulley ration so the vast majority have to be set after fitting.

Personally I would put such a switch in the 12V supply so the fridge would be exactly as submitted for CE testing apart from the faulty igniter. Of course if the flame failure is the igniter circuit it would be irresponsible and downright dangerous to do it. However if teh flame failure and igniter were linked I can't see the flame staying alight with the igniter clicking but yo'e' the gas expert.

and some of what they earned was taken away to pay for pensions, benefits, home helps (remember them) for the then people in need. I very much resent that things were so tight when we were a young family that my wife and a number of others had to come to the garage at lunch-time on Fridays to get the wages so they could shop for the weekend. I did not resent paying my tax and NI, and rates then but I dam well do now. People in my position today seem to afford mobile phones, foreign holidays , expensive coffee ( not cold tea from a thermos from home) and so on yet are reported to resent paying a bit more tax and NI to ensure the retired have enough to live a half decent life. If the youngsters don't want to pay, or far more likely big business then as common humanity old people should be facilitated to die when they have had enough struggle.

Good idea as long as the OP can see the flame and the flame failure device is still working. I think a push button switch positioned so the OP can see the flame while operating it would be best.

Not very sure about the exact design but it sounds as if the igniter box is not recognising a falme is present. I had this on am Alde gas boiler and a new igniter box sorted in. The boxes sense the reduction in conductivity when the spark gap is in the flame.

Now that is the value of very specific product knowledge. Another one filed for future reference. Cheers Sir N

Not unless its an old Perkins 4-10x. Modern diesels and even petrol engine use pre-engage starters that move the pinion into mesh by solenoid. However I have known a very old ignition switch with presumably slake/worn/burned/dirty contacts cause starting issues but whacking the motor would do nothing to resolve it. Most likely worn brushes as the solenoid pull in coil earths through the motor itself so poor brush contact = lack of power in the solenoid.

If you have a warning buzzer for more than just the charge then maybe the diodes that ensures on system malfunction does not illuminate all bulbs could be at fault.

I see what you mean, yes absolutely.

I would say a sliding distance piece in the top rear alternator bracket rather than slots. I am sure an A127 would go straight on but you might have to ease the distance piece back before it will.

Yeh, A127 type but not an actual A127, wrong regulator. I think that needs a fair amount of disassembly to get at the diodes so I would rather not do it at home and without an alternator tester. All your "symptoms" sound normal for a typical alternator apart from the light being at full brilliance and not going out. The dimming is just the starter motor load pulling the voltage down and is normal. I think there are two possibilities: 1. For some reason it self energises and there is a short to negative on the alternator side of the D+ cable. 2. It is not a 9 diode machine and the internal warning lamp control has failed but I recall Sir N mentioned that it was possible to ruin six diode machines by wiring as if they are 9 diode machines. I would disconnect the D+ cable and see if the warning lamp goes out. If it does then you know there is no short between warning lamp and alternator. If the lamp stays on insulate the terminal the start & rev the engine to see if it energises. If it does then I would suspect its an alternator fault. Maybe take it to Burghfield Starters & Alternators if you are this way and get them to put it on their test bench. Actually it might be a very late ACR design but I thought they had the flat plastic cover over all the end bracket. The "white pot" is a radio suppressor and even if it was faulty it would either simply not suppress (open circuit) or would burn its connecting cable, if not the case (short circuit). Can't say much more of any help. PS I suspect its an Iskra design.

If its the ACR series with the big "pudding basin" plastic cover you are welcome to come round next time you are in Reading so we can check the diodes. If you want to then switch to PMs s I do not broadcast to the world when I will not be at home. I am fairly confident its a diode or two that have failed and you will still get amps out of the machine, even with two diodes down, but it will be at a reduced voltage so charging is compromised.

What does the lamp do as the engine starts and the alternator energises? It is not unknown for a wiring, fusing fault, or faulty ignition switch to cause the field diodes to try to supply the auxiliaries but far less likely on a boat where the auxiliaries are a few warning lamps and gauges. If this is the problem then the lamp would dim and brighten again as the alternator energised. Could also be a blown positive diodes or two so the main output voltage is low but the D+ (field diode) voltage is correct. This causes the field diode to try to charge the batteries vis the warning lamp. All assuming its a 9 diode machine. If its a six diode one then all bets are off.

Don't know if this helps. Back in the 70s we fitted out some bare GRP hull as hire cruisers. We used thick plywood cabin sides, aluminium extrusions that were originally made for truck roofs and ply panels over formed aluminium top hat beams. We were advised to cover the roof and extrusions right down top the extrusion gutters in an open weave glass fibre material a bit like sack cloth and paint the lot with several layers of special epoxied paint. I fully expected the system to de-laminate from the aluminium but I saw own of the boats about 8 years ago, now in private livaboard use and chatted to the owner (he was happy to meet someone involved in the building of the boat) and no leaks were mentioned. The only visible problem was that the ply sides had started to de-laminate along the bottom edge and had a 3" batten screwed along the length.