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Tony Brooks

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Tony Brooks last won the day on October 1 2017

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About Tony Brooks

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    South Midlands

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  1. Taking Wide Boat across channel to France

    Just noticed this topic. If its the same Terry that posted the question on the magazine forum he gave me more info:- The size of cabin boat I have in mind is 8 meters long and 3 meters wide with 50 horse power diesel engine. So almost certainly not a planing boat with a top speed of perhaps 6 knots. I told him pretty much the same as he was told here and he has not been back there either.
  2. Lidle pump & fuel tank cleaning

    I agree, there is a half plane for a tideway trip in the summer so that is why I wanted something better than the Pella pump. It will get another syphoning before if the trip takes place. I suspect the tank was like this when we did the tidal Trent and that got a bit lump as did the Severn in 2016 but the water trap and filters have always been cleaner than I used to find on trucks.
  3. Lidle pump & fuel tank cleaning

    Probably more difficult than a simple syphon unless you have help. You would need one hand for the pump, one to keep the empty container upright with the hose still in place and one to move the copper pipe over the bottom of the tank. Maybe it would be OK as long as you can drop the pump once the syphon starts but then you end up with a pump full of diesel when done. I suspect it is easier to get a diesel spill into the bilge with one of these but its the individual's choice.
  4. Lidle pump & fuel tank cleaning

    Good idea but check where they actually drain from and how the boat trims in the water. Most NBs and I expect wide beam so called NBs have any tank drain at the front yet they trim down by the stern so the drains will leave some water/nasties in the tank. Also because the base of the tank is often the uxter plate such drains have to be fitted a little above the bottom of the tank leaving more space for water/muck that can't be drained. This is probably not a problem while the tank is more or less bug free but I would rather have it out.
  5. Lidle pump & fuel tank cleaning

    As long as you have a conventional tank that has its base well above the base plate why spend over £100 when a tenner for half a metre of 3/8 or 1/2 inch copper pipe and some clear plastic pipe will set you up. You will have to save some milk cartons as well. This as a DIY job is as easy as they come. Milk carton (top off) on base plate, copper pipe in tank sitting on the bottom, suck on plastic pipe until diesel is nearly at your mouth. Finger in mouth to seal the tube and insert tube into milk carton as you remove your finger. Move copper pipe over the bottom of the tank especially into corners at the lowest point. When its only clear diesel or the carton is nearly full lift the carton and tube to above the tank level and withdraw tube holding the open end high. Repeat as required. One reason I was so appalled was that there has never been any signs of water or other nasties in my filters and water trap. I would advise everyone who can to do their own servicing so they can spend time draining and examining their fuel filters for water, slime, and floating particles. This is where you get early warning of potential fuel problems. Edited to add: This is NOT fuel polishing and should never be considered as such. It is just routine tank maintenance.
  6. Lidle pump & fuel tank cleaning

    Mistake in original post - I will edit if I can. I got a much larger diameter length of clear plastic pipe with it that I could fit to the Pella oil drainer I had used until now. should read: I got a much larger diameter length of clear plastic pipe with it than I could fit to the Pella oil drainer I had used until now. So I nbo longer recommend using the Pella unless the tank is such that you can not set up a syphon. I pulled off the Bowden outer cable and rubber sleeve thing. Fitted a length of clear plastic tube so I could see what I was sucking up plus a length of bowed copper tube. The insert tube into tank, pump the Pella and use the bow in the copper to reach all over as much of the tank bottom as you can, especially the lowest parts. Because of the Pella plastic tube diameter and the need to provide the largest bore possible the joint between the now cloudy Pella plastic pipe and some new clear plastic pipe had to be made using a short length of copper pipe that obviously has a smaller bore than the plastic tube. I found that this reduction in diameter caused the pipe to block with gritty black stuff from the bottom of the tank. It seems like welding scale & dust, rust plus fibres holding it in small clumps. As long as your tank base is above the base plate then it will in my new experience be far easier to but a couple of metres of clear plastic hose that is a tight push fit over (say) 3/8 copper tube. The tube probably needs a bow in it so you can suck from a wider area of tank bottom. The just syphon it. I accept that I am used to having mouths full of petrol. diesel etc. so starting the syphon by sucking may not be to everybody's taste. However the length of plastic pipe meant I never got diesel within a foot of my mouth.
  7. Lidle pump & fuel tank cleaning

    I thought the pump discussed in a previous thread would be ideal for sucking more crud out of my fuel tank so bought one. It is an all metal vane type pump so hydrocarbons should not destroy it but the clearance between the rotor and body is so small it causes failure if anything other than liquid is passed through the pump unless all of any solid exits the outlet rather than being carried on round by the rotor. In my case some small bits of what I take to be welding scale and dust from the fuel tank jammed the rotor within seconds of starting. To make matters worse it has a small in-line fuse soldered to one of the leads and covered with heat shrink sleeve inside the body. This blew instantly. I would not even try an oil change with one of these or even transfer fuel unless I was 100% sure the fuel was free of dust, dirt and paint flakes. The good thing is I got a much larger diameter length of clear plastic pipe with it than I could fit to the Pella oil drainer I had used until now. That together with some wider copper tube allowed me to easily clear the bottom of the tank by simple syphoning with none of the tube blocking the Pela suffered at joints in the tube. The image below shows what I syphoned out: This is after standing for 24 hours. When first syphoned the bottle on the left was full of badly emulsified diesel. I was horrified by this because I have been using fuel additives and sucking the bottom of the tank each spring for three or four years. As syphoning is so easy I will now do this twice a year and advise all boaters to rig up a large bore (say 10mm) copper pipe and clear plastic tube to do the same. I hope this helps someone avoid problems. For completeness edited to add:- The best bit is that both my agglomerator and filter were totally water and muck free with the sedimetor only having a slight smear of the emulsified diesel in the bowl.
  8. Lister internal fuel leaks

    Not sure what you mean by rails but if its the injector pump rack and links you can watch them (at least you can on SLs) with the side cover off and engine running. If you set maximum speed and operate the cold start device on a stationary the rack should jump forward . Likewise as you close the throttle the rack should move back under spring pressure. If its stuck it is usually one or more injector pumps are twisted so loosen the hold down boat and play with the pumps while pushing the rack to max speed by hand and letting it jump back, then tighten the bolts. If your rails are something different or if the STs differ radically from SLs this is not a lot of use.
  9. Painting - cabin sides

    I am fully aware of the heat thing so get up very early in the summer to leather off, wait for the dew to dry, light rub down with 400 paper de-dust & degrease so I can still put the next coat on while it is cool and before too many flies get around. Usually completed by 7.30. The professional repaint used Masons and it started to fail within a very few years. After a few years of polishing to keep oxidisation at bay the undercoat was showing through in some places and the sign writing was also patchy. If I am to keep the boat looking presentable It seems I nee to repaint every few years so its a "Forth bridge" type job doing a little each years so in my view the longevity of the paint finish only has to be adequate for my needs.
  10. Painting - cabin sides

    I have tried a variety of different makes of paint for the boat including "marine" brands and so called coach painting brands. I am very much an amateur in the painting lark and have found that some of the "marine" brands seem to be very poor at flowing out after laying off where as Leyland oil based gloss flowed out well on my 3" red coach stripe. I await the result of trying to paint the main cabin side with Leyland green gloss paint in a month or two.
  11. Non refundable deposit

    My answer to the broker would be along the lines of " it seem to me that you think there are defects and an inadequate description that means the true vale of the boat is 10% less than the price I agree so my offer has just gone down by 10% (or whatever) unless you reconsider that clause. Now show your good faith by passing my new offer and the reason for it to the owner".
  12. Calorifier leaking.

    I really should not say this but if it were mine I would put a little of the leak on my finger and dab the minimum amount on the tip of my tongue. If it's sweet or bitter its antifreeze so its from the engine or central heating circuit. If there is no significant taste it domestic water. If its antifreeze then it may well be a faulty fitting or faulty fitting of the fitting. If its water then I fear the calorifier might have split under the nut.
  13. Crossing the Cherwell at Aynho

    I think its the one below that with all the woodwork by the tow path bridge over the Cherwell.
  14. Water purification

    Usually nothing. Sometimes a bottle of cheap bleach into the empty tank, fill up and flush through pipes using the pump, allow to stand overnight, pump out and refill tank with fresh water a couple of times and job done. This applies to Stainless steel tanks. For plastic I would use what the maker recommends while mild steel tanks require draining, access, de-rusting and the surfaces treated every few years unless you have had a diligent 2 pack coating applied but even then it would need checking. That should keep any mild steel tanks safe enough.
  15. Boat lift

    Try Oxford Cruisers Ltd The Boat Centre Oxford Road Eynsham OX29 4DA Phone: 01865 881698 As long as the airdraft will allow it under Osney bridge. They deal with Dutch barges and seen to have a meaty crane.