Tony Brooks

By all means use distilled water, you are paying, but on a system like yours tap water will be perfectly adequate, as it is in the vehicles the engine was designed for.

You can be sure that if cost was the only factor, the hire industry would have found a cheaper way. What is the cost for the AC cable plus whatever you are going to put on the end to deliver 12V with adequate current compared with the 12V cable? Have you thought about the consequences of the brick or inverter failing, water supply wise? Cables properly installed and fuse don't fail. Battery charge is all important on boats, have you calculated how you will replace the loss of charge due to the inefficiencies in the inverter and your power brick?

I suspect most of those with long experience would say, "don't try to reinvent the wheel". I would like to see your calculations re cable size, unless you have something very long, they look wrong to me, as others have said. Hundreds of hire boats get by perfectly adequately with thinner cables for the water pump. let alone thousands of private boats, some full length. Depending upon where the pump and other equipment is, you always have the option of running a pair of heavy cables to a fuse/circuit breaker box close to the pump etc. to feed several high currant item, and then use shorter, thinner cables for there. However, that will not help others with fast fault-finding until they understand the wiring.

Is this likely, I suspect the main road has been improved since the time you went there https://www.google.com/maps/search/angling+clubs+near+wakefield/@53.6847853,-1.4712991,432m/data=!3m1!1e3?entry=ttu

That is because of congestion AND the majority of drivers driving at a fairly safe speed, which often is 20 or a little over. It is the idiots that try to go faster and often indulge in dangerous behaviour at traffic lights and multi-lane junctions/roundabouts, let alone going past the right-hand side of keep left islands. That is where the major danger to pedestrians lies so that is what needs addressing. The prats will always be prats until they are stopped.

I agree with that as well, no party in modern history or their supporters can truthfully claim a majority of voters, let alone the electorate voted for them.

That would explain the very slow drop in pressure you found when I think you pressure tested it, but unless it started to dribble under pressure, I can't see the speed of occurrence and severity of the symptoms being related to just a few drips. Edited to add - i don't think that your system is pressurised so ignore the drip under pressure bit, but that does not mean the pump would not start leaking when spinning - horribly unpredictable leak wise when they get old.

And one may ask why 3kW and if you need one that large have you sorted out how you will replace (recharge) the electricity it takes from the batteries. This is very important for the optimum life of lead acid batteries. This will not be a problem if you are using a shoreline and have a decent charger. It is likely to be a problem if relying on an engine alternator and solar for about half a year.

That needs emphasising. That type of electric motor presents only a few ohms of resistance when stationary and a sit accelerates, the "resistance" (inductance) rises sharply. Although the motor type is different, we can see the effect on compressor fridge wiring. Those supplies seem to egt very warm in normal use, so I doubt they can handle much overload.

Exactly, and the more we allow the sloppy use of language, the longer the FPTP system will remain in place, but this is Ian, who seems never to be wrong.

I don't actually agree with that because with a bypass circuit it will all eventually mix, by water pump action, as long as the engine is run until the thermostat opens and then some more. It is central heating, especially gravity systems, where premixing is vital. Not mixing should not cause the overheating the OP is experiencing. However, if the OP has put neat antifreeze in, the cooling capacity will be badly compromised. As I can't read the labels and as they are images I can't put the text into Google Translate, so we don't know if it is neat antifreeze or pre-mix. Yes, Google says they are the same, but it seems Ethanediol should have some numbers associated with it. I suspect (don't know) that there may be subtly different Ethylene Glycols depending upon the number. It seems that you have mixed blue and red antifreeze, that is what we call OAT (Organic Acid) which when mixed can cause the corrosion inhibitors to precipitate and drop out. On cars, this can block the smaller hoses, drillings, and radiator core. Although I don't know for sure, I feel that the precipitate will not be such a problem on your cooling system. If you have put neat antifreeze in, I would suggest that you drain it down, flush the system well, and refill with a 30% mixture and retest. That just might be enough. Or just try it with water to see if it overheats. It won't hurt anything for a couple of weeks.

I thought you would know better than that, exactly when was the last time the majority of voters actually supported the government that got into power, let alone the majority of those entitled to vote. It is a trope often spouted by those who benefit from the FPTP system.

I never complained about the 20 mph zones in built-up areas, for most of the time sensible drivers would be going at that speed anyway, but it such zones have nothing to do with pollution. However, extending the 20 zone at the ends of what was 30, with just a few large house drives on it makes no sense to me. I have nothing against a lower limit when the road is narrow and windy. For example, just ff the A34 west of Abingdon, there is a straight length of road with good sight lines and adequate width, Oxfordshire 50, West Berkshire 60. Absolutely no rhyme or reason for the 50 apart from council dogma. The fact is that Oxfordshire has chosen to punish all motorists rather than enforce the law as it stood. It makes me suspect there are revenue raising advantages from fixed penalties.

The primary filter/water trap is also a 296 element. You may find it easier to change the oil filter and get it reassembled properly if you take it off the engine by removing the two bolts in the filter head, but you may need a new gasket if you do that. Calcutt Boats can supply, probably in packets of 10 or something, so many years worth. You might also think about changing it for a spin on type, again just remove the two bolts and bolt the adaptor plate onto the engine. New, shorter bolts may be required.

To who? You, probably, but not to me when driving them or (for instance) West Berkshire Council where the limit goes back to 60 as soon as Oxfordshire is exited, and other local authority areas. It certainly makes little sense to those who tailgate motorists trying to stick to the limit. It is easier to punish all motorists than enforce the law, especially when you have a council that has shown itself to be anti-car in other matters like Oxfordshire. The road from Banbury to Southam is not particularly windy and, in the main, is perfectly safe at 60 once out of the 30 or 40 built-up area limits.