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Tony Brooks

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Tony Brooks last won the day on June 24

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    http://www.tb-training.co.uk

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    Reading
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    Engineer/trainer/retired
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    Now boatless
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    n/a

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  1. I doubt Alan's boat gets anywhere near waters that require a BSS. It seems some plastics can meet the relevant BS/ISO as in some diesel water separators, so they may do. I would prefer a ring of screws with a metal plate on a gasket.
  2. That is not worth worrying about, it's fine.
  3. That is just under 5 psi above cut out pressure so you will get a 5 psi overpressure at each heating cycle. Personally I would drop it to 40 psi.
  4. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  5. No, assuming that you mean the expansion vessel. Accumulators are set at more or less the pump cut IN pressure, expansion vessels at or very slightly above the pump cut OUT pressure, so 40psi in your case.
  6. If the target is accommodation during term time at low cost then it might be worth considering an old touring caravan on a pitch that provides an electrical hookup and allows any living there any X months in a year. The holidays taking acre of the non-living months. I know some of my son's college friends did this in the Wakefield area, but that was a number of years ago. However, site fees will also add up just like marina fees. I fear a caravan would still get squalid and damp during the winter. It depends upon what he wants to study, but it seems many can now get a degree level qualification via the apprenticeship route (with the right company). He will also end up with his qualification and, more importantly, practical experience that would expect any potential new employer to value. That would give him an income, and he might be able to live at home or with a relative.
  7. From your photos it looks as if your tanks sit between the engine beds, possibly using the beds as the tank sides., with a walkway above the tanks. Bigcol's description suggests his are below the actual engine so I am just trying to get a picture in my mind as to exactly how his are organized. Unfortunately the fact the RCD says fuel tanks must have an inspection hatch does not mean they do, Many narrowboats show that to be the case.
  8. Would you be saying the top of your fuel tank forms the bilge floor with no gap between tanks? If so the fuel supply pipe may well come out of the top of the tank with a dip tube. The elbow/bend Tracy mentioned may well be on the outside. I am not sure how one can easily drain water from the bottom of such tanks though so I hope you have an inspection hatch in it somewhere.
  9. Way back in this conversation when I mentioned a narrow beam canal cruiser I specifically linked it to a holiday boat and NOT a live-aboard. Most steel narrowboats have a gap between the cabin inner lining and steel cabin side, ditto the ceiling and roof. This often already contains thermal insulation or where insulation can be fitted. Few GRP cruisers are like this so with someone living aboard will suffer horribly from condensation in winter. It is not a simple job to fit insulation to a GRP canal cruiser because it already has a narrow interior and ding so will make it narrower and you will have to organise a serviceable inner cabin lining. Next heating. The most popular form of live-aboard heating on a steel narrowboat is a solid fuel stove. As GRP canal cruisers are usually smaller finding space to safely fit a stove, properly insulated and with a large enough gap between GRP and stove, is far more difficult. That leaves GRP boats with either gas or diesel powered heaters, often blown warm air or a wet central heating system. These are less reliable than a solid fuel stove and also tend to use a lot of electricity and the latter can all too easily become a problem unless the boat can be connected to a shoreline, usually in a marina at a greater cost. If the boat is not in a marina or a mooring with a shoreline then I can almost guarantee electricity will be a problem, especially in winter. CaRT say do not run engines (for battery charging/hot water) between 8pm and 8am. Marinas are likely to have similar rules. At the price point you seem to be looking at the batteries will be lead acid, and they need charging to some degree every day and fully charging once a week if you are to get more than a few week's life out of them - hence the need for a shore-line charger that can be left charging 24/7 AND supplying all the 12V loads. Solar charging will help a little in summer but not for winter. It is very doubtful if a narrowbeam GRP cruiser will have enough roof space for sufficient solar to even cover the summer months, especially the wide beam one's Old Goat mentions. Experience tells me this idea is born from a critical lack of in depth knowledge of boating and suggests that for the purpose you stated you forget it. I can all too easily see the whole thing turning into a nightmare and money pit.
  10. I understand that Travelpowers are modified Bosch alternators, the magic happens in the metal box and that mafic may include current limiting. We are back to my original answer. At present your charger is using power to work itself converting the mains 230V AC to 12+V DC so that needs subtracting from the total used. If it is a decent charger it probably will not be much unless it gets hot. Whatever you end up with it will be the total electricity used on the boat. Once you go off grid all the 240V AC loads on the boat will have to be provided by an inverter unless you intend to run the Travelpower for periods, but that only complicates things because you can subtract the Travelpower output from the total boat power required. That new figure or the original one if you do not use the Travelpower, minus the 12V DC loads (another complication) will have to be supplied by the inverter and that uses power to work itself so that needs adding to the boat's demand. In my view it is a very complicated way of going about what is usually the simple procedure of doing a power audit. I suspect that just taking the figure from the shoreline will be fairly close but I can't say that with any certainty. If you want a quick and dirty figure just increase the bollard figure by 10%.
  11. If you can hear bubbling in the tank it has worked, if not you may need greater pressure.
  12. You bleed from the highest point, not the lowest, so it seems you can not easily bleed the calorifier coil.
  13. Best practice is to feed from the top with a dip tube, but loads are like yours. It won't be the elbow stopping the rod but best practice suggest that the outlet should have a course strainer inside the atnk. Few do these days but yours might. I would also try taking a car spare wheel to the boat so you can take out the valve core and very quickly connect a length of tube between the valve and outlet. If that clears the problem you have muck in the tank, possibly mats of bug.
  14. The Travelpower IS an alternator. I don't think you were explicit but as I read your question you wanted to know your total power requirement when you are OFF grid. Otherwise, there is no point in even doing the calculations. The mains and battery charger will supply all your loads, just as they do now. It is only an issue when off grid. Travelpowers are engine driven alternators having a 230V AC output so normally charge whatever batteries you have via a mains battery charger or lithium mains charge controller. I don't see why you seem to be ignoring the charging side of the calculations unless you intend to stay on shore power, but your talk of a Travelpower seems to contradict that. Ignore charging and destroy batteries, but probably not as fast with lithiums as with lead acids. I answered the best as I understood things so I don't think I can try to help any further.
  15. Bear in mid what Tracy said. I would strip back a bit of domestic twin and earth and use the copper conductor. A thin enough tie wrap might go around the elbow if inserted correctly but I would think most tie wraps would be too wide to be sure they would fit.
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