Tony Brooks

In fact its the other way round. Antifreeze has a lower specific heat capacity than water so carries less heat around. That is one reason we have a maximum of 50% mixture and I think Beta say 30%. As the corrosion inhibitors are what gets "used up" I suspect a lower percentage will not be less effective but would lose their effect faster than a higher percentage.

Unless you have left an air leak in the engine coil circuit then it can't really drain back much because if it did it would form a depression in the coil and that would "suck it back" or more likely stop it flowing. Of more concern to me would be how to bleed the coil if it did not self bleed and you may have to fit a high level header tank to the cooling system above the coil level. As long as the hot take of is on the engine side of the water pump there is a very good chance it will self bleed on a modern engine because it would have been designed for a horizontal radiator for ot

More like not financially worth the investment required until they are faced with loosing money. They could employ hundreds of human checkers or even thousands but if they did the expense would maybe make it more expensive to sell via them than via bricks and mortar.

I wonder why Ebay can't see it and act without it needing reporting to them. This sort of thing will never be stopped until the likes of Ebay are made jointly responsible for the listing so they would have to pay if the scammer did not. It works for credit card sales.

Just commenting, aren't you supposed to burn off the high pressure gas in the flexible hoses before letting it stand, otherwise high pressure gas between the bottle and regulator can top up any slight leaks and hide them?

FWIW I have seen pumps that are marketed as shower drain pumps that seem to have exactly the same internals as a normal domestic water pump. That is multiple pumping chambers and valves. One of this type probably would do the job proving it could reach the pressure. If it were a Gulper (single large diaphragm and two large valves) I can imagine the flame going up and down with each gulp.

Mine neither and the accumulator is doing both jobs and seemed to work in respect of the PRV letting by.

And the data from the old pump? It w uld seem from Ex Brummie's comments your new pump should be fine though.

I agree, a simple and effective way of keeping an eye on the PRV. However, if there is no expansion vessel it may be better for the calorifier to fit one and then he may not need to empty the container very often.

I don't recall seeing a Parmax 2.9 mentioned by name and that's after scanning the whole topic again. The 2.9 (as you don't give any units/suffixes could be gallons per minute or bar (pressure) and from what I can see you have been advised that you may need to increase both cut out pressure and out put volume so unless you tell us the full specification for this pump you may still not solve the problem and maybe waste close to £100, still it's your choice.

If so then I think at least one needs a bit of red sleeving on it at each outlet and the polarity of the sockets and any plugs he uses changing. At the moment its asking for damage to equipment.

I think you may have more of a problem if you have anything that plugs into those outlets. They seem to have been wired in reverse polarity but where is the issue. I expect that if you take the unit off the wall you will find its easy to simply swap the connections over on each socket so the + and - markings are correct but then you would need to do the same for any plugs that are used in those sockets. By doing that and checking any other sockets you minimise the chances of anyone damaging equipment in the future. If you find the wire colours at the back of the socket seem wrong t