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Tony Brooks

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Tony Brooks last won the day on May 22

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  1. In an ideal world you don't want rust through the taps but all you have is rust dust that has passed through the strainer (course mesh filter) that you should have by the pump but its rust flakes that will do any blocking. You can normally unscrew the two halves of the strainer to clean it if required. Personally, I don't think drinking or eating a small amount of iron oxide will do you any harm at all.
  2. I am sure Calcutt can supply metal ones. I found some marinations have a too thin fuel filter bracket so it waves about and fractures the pipe where your daughters has. You can minimise it by pushing a pieced of wood between hand and bracket. Personally, I would get hold of a bit of copper pipe and silver solder it over the break. Not ordinary solder because that is a BSS fail.
  3. Almost certainly rust but as you are running your tank down the water is probably sloping about as you move about so it has stirred up the rest particles that are in the bottom of the tank. As the particles are heavier than water they have probably settled out into the bottom of the calorifier so the hot taps are, at the moment, clear. I suspect that if you filled the tank the problem will get much reduced after allowing time for the rust you stir up when filling to settle out. That does not mean its not a good idea to plan to get the tank sorted, but it may buy you a bit of t
  4. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  5. The solenoid is to stop the engine. Look for the lever the throttle cable is fixed to and make sure the control moves the lever through its full movement and that the lever actually moves its spindle. If the cable does not move the lever, something has broken, probably either the cable of the trunnion in the control.
  6. Both the above. If the OP wants a more informed answer we need to know which canal and where. I found parts of the Ashby and Chesterfield bad, bt almost any narrow canal has places that severely limt the top speed.
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  11. Mine were on the L&L where on the odd occasion passers-by had to co-opted into the operation
  12. If you are interested in pursuing this, the charge splitter will need to be identified. It could be a big 1, 2, both, off switch or a so-called "zero volt drop" diode if it really does as you say. Otherwise, it could be a passive diode (bad news with most alternators) split charge relay, or a voltage sensitive relay but those would charge both batteries at the same time but apportion charge so the flatter battery gets more of the charge. There is a chance its a Sterling A to B unit but they are expensive. You will learn very little by paying others to do it for you but if you have
  13. The red bit needs resolving. If its alternator singular then you should have some form of charge splitting do one alternator can charger the engine and domestic batteries unless its a very old boat where you may have only one bank. If it is a single bank, hard luck, you can't start the engine with an electric starter now the batteries are flat. We will probably need photos of the back of the alternator, plus any "boxes" mounted in the engine bay unless you know if/how the charge is split and want help. Absolutely correct, now edited. Came from a small lapt
  14. Having looked at the photo in another program: 1. Remember that the battery must always be connected to the controller BEFORE the panels. So disconnect and insulate one of the panel cables until the battery is connected, then connect it again. Working from left to right on the photo terminal 1 = panel pos terminal 2 = panel neg terminal 3 = battery pos terminal 4 = battery neg I would suggest you ignore the next pair for now but typically they will be: terminal 5 = solar load pos terminal 6 = solar load neg Th
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