Tony Brooks

I don't understand this properly. Assuming a power to stop solenoid. If you intend to use a relay to power the stop solenoid ten you will need to feed the coil from the ignition switch and use the de-energise to make contacts to feed the solenoid. The problem is the contacts can not be fed from the ignition switch because thee will be no supply with the ignition off so t will need a permanent feed but the the stop solenoid will be energised all the time the engine is stationary. This will probably burn the solenoid out, let alone helping to flatten the battery. You can get energise to run stop solenoids and one of those can be wired to the ignition switch but I have no idea if you can fit one to your engine.

I thought he had missed the 1s off voltage readings.

Are you sure it is the charging "beeper"? If you don't have an oil pressure gauge I would suspect its a low oil pressure warning but the most likely reason is a faulty oil pressure switch. Which warning lamps come on or glow when this happens cup, your hand around them. Does the beep come from the instrument panel or the Victron? If the former it could be a no charge warning, low oil pressure, or overheating. In the latter case I would still suspect the sender without any other symptoms. Charging voltage is no real indication of the batteries getting near to fully charged. Use the BVM to measure tail current. The voltage just tells you we the alternator regulator has stated to work, that is probably several hours before the batteries are charged.

Been pondering this a bit more. I agree now. The magnetic fluxes will be the result of amp turns, so nothing to do with power. However I still can't understand how a nominal 70 amp alternator can produce well over 80 amps (runs out of ammeter scale) at first start up if they are totally self limiting.

I think this statement is not the whole truth but is near enough the truth for most purposes.. Yes, for years we have said alternators are self limiting for current and so they are as long as you stay within their design parameters. They still self limit when you are outside those parameters but the self limiting comes from the Watts = Amps X Volts. Unless Leece Neville have a shunt in their output so the regulator can "measure" the output current the regulator can not control it, So the question is if what Leece Neville told you is true what mechanism controls the current? Until I see a definitive explanation this comes back to the Watts thing. So lets have the answer for how do they control their current when operating way outside their design parameters. For goodness sake, don't they ever learn. We had enough trouble with the aluminium would starters, now they have done it to alternators as well.

To be honest after the years of Brexit anything that smacks of kicking politicians and the government probably seems like fun to many. I note the "leave on 29th" poll seems to have stalled at around 300,000 so not so many clicking that one for fun. Cameron got the government a kicking and it still carries on. I would suggest because UK democracy is a democracy in name only as long as probably millions of people have a vote that has no effective value.

I suspect that was caused by the very high current in the thin diode connection rather than "normal" currents. Alternators are actually rated in Watts so the so many amps designation we use is not really true. Lets say an alternator is rated at 60 amps. That means at 12V it will deliver 720 Watts. Now with knackered and probably shorting batteries the charging voltage could be 6 volts and that will allow 120 amps to flow hence overheating of conductors designed for a nominal 60 amps. I din't think this will be any sort of an issue for the good doctor's setup as long as he ensures the current is limited to the alternator's nominal rating.

But he may notice if you take the engine ECU as well so you can control it. Not sure a Pi would be up to the job.

I did get my email eventually but it now looks as if the website has crashed big time - you get a 502 Bad gateway message rather than the websites own "under maintainable, try later" message. I bet it has been taken off line for some reason.

The two parts that create heat are the diode pack that is usually right at the back where cool air is drawn in and the stater that is the laminated middle section. (I think your stator is inside the two end pieces). I have no definitive temperature data or limits but know that you can give yourself a burn on an alternator that has been working hard for a while. I doubt there is an issue with the diode temperature and when you realise some cars stuck the alternator between a transverse engine and bulkhead close to the exhaust manifold I think it will run with the centre section much hotter than 90C, the main thing you would be worrying about is the insulating lacquer on the stator winding burning away and causing a short. I have seen alternators that smoked when reverse polarity connected work perfecter well when reconnected the correct way round but the idiot was PDQ at disconnecting it - assisted by a great big spark! Not sure that helps much and hope Sir N will be along soon. Edited to add - none of my auto-electrical text books, including Payne's Marine Electrical and Electrocution Bible seem to give any maximum temperatures. You also need to keep the solder joints on the diodes at below melting point but I expect that will be getting on for 200C

Seems the petition website is not sending out the emails with the link you need to click to get your vote counted. Is this simply because of the larger volume of responses or "something else"? After last night's performance I am almost ready to believe any conspiracy theory

A number of us are pre-boomers

Please think about this post, especially from a so far non-contributing member. It sounds very much to me like saying I want advice and help for free and don't want any subsidiary jokes and possibly relevant side tracks. As Wotever said, that is not the way forums work, especially this one. If that is what you expect than may I suggest that you EMPLOY a consultant who will stick to your agenda. I am sure you did not intend to come across in this way but your comment may well have ramifications if you need to ask for more help. A goodly number of members and contributors here are professionals working in various branches of the industry and they give their time, knowledge and advice totally free (actually some pay towards the forum running costs) to try to help other boaters. In my case remarks like the one above does not go down well.

I would remove that nice piece of wood along the bottom of the last photo. I think there is probably rust behind it. It also looks as if someone has applied silicon. If so so get some silicon eater from Toolstation/Screwfix and when all gone clean with panel wipe degeaser

It strikes me that on the face of what has been reported here that it is the mooring owner who is totally responsible and may well have committed a criminal offence by taking money for a mooring that is occupied. In any case it is the mooring owner who has the power to take steps to deal with the situation. Either by legal process to remove the boat or by giving W+T his money back and possibly a bit of compensation for loss of interest etc. My feeling is the last thing W+T wants to do is put himself on the wrong side of any arguments by causing the boat to drift away by moving it.