Tony Brooks

No idea why this question has been asked unless the pump runs during the night. The way to stop that is either to turn it off (switch in galley and Toilet) or fit a decent sized accumulator. Anyway, as Rusty says, it s good to know when it is and is not running.

I asked this way back, close to the start of the topic. I also pointed out that traditional keel cooling pipes might not be such a good idea on a flat-bottomed canal boat. I think I also asked about the thermal conductivity of HDPE compared with steel. I was told by another member that this was to be an electrically powered boat. Now we know the OP intends to fit a 60hp diesel. A 60hp diesel in a steel boat will require a 15sq ft skin tank, so say 2ft x 7.5 ft, I think the thermal conductivity of HDPE is far lower than steel, so the tank would need to be much larger and I think it would have to be impractically large, so it will have to be heat exchanger cooled with the potential for the raw water system to clog and block on canal. At least that will allow a wet exhaust so the hull fitting will not be subject to such potential high temperatures.

That is correct, but make sure it is not one of the high tec permeable membranes that are used under roof tiles.

True, it might even mean the igniter won't work, and if so I would suspect it is a battery charge problem.

As others have said, unlikely. To try to give you a bit of an explanation for this. Unless you have fancy electronic controls, an oven is what we call a resistive load, and resistive loads will happily run from all sorts of odd wave forms and frequencies. A washing machine, these days, has a lot of complex electronics and computer(s) to control the motors and the main motor may well be very different to the common types to allow for reversing and speed control. It is the electronics that seem to get upset by a frequency or waveform that is not spot on., so unless you have a very fancy oven with electronics or computer control it should work. All sorts of electronic devices may have potential problems with inverters, especially non-sine wave ones, so often it is try it and see.

In series with what? If you mean the rads then apart from a longer warm up I can't see why it would not work. I doubt it would be easy to get gravity circulation if you did that, but as you seem to have a pumped system it should work, but what you hope to achieve I don't know.

The ones that do will always be at the more expensive end of the market. There are plenty of CaRT water point and Elsan dump points around, and some rubbish disposal points, but you have to cruise to them and then back to your mooring. Pump out facilities are less regular and normally in marinas, you pay for those, perhaps £20 or more a time. There are some CaRT pump outs, but not that many.

I think that many see replies from experience boaters as negative, but I think many are trying to ensure that new potential boaters go into with their eyes wide open and do not spend tight resources on near worthless boats. Only today, we had a potential new boater who did not seem to know about CaRT's conditions you have to comply with if you register as having no home mooring. We recently had a chap who bought a boat with a less common engine that early in his journey to his new moorings refused to start. If he had consulted earlier, he might have bought a boat with a more common engine. So it goes on. Find out all you can about the CaRT requirements. Learn all you can about batteries and charging because that is all too often a MAJOR problem area for new boaters, and try to get a grasp about how all the boat systems work. Also, don't hesitate to get the forum's opinion of any boats you are interested in. Then you will have a much better chance of having a good outcome, do not take comments that do not accord with your views as negative until you have given them some thought.

For general discussion, not a direct reply to the quote But one has to remember that as the calorifier heats up the transfer oh heat will drop, so whatever heating capacity the coil has it will gradually reduce. The question is, will you have enough and hot enough water before this reduction causes the boiler to start cycling up and down.

I will thank you for putting it up, it has engendered much discussion and in my view was worthwhile.

I think that illustrates the difference between a boat builder and a proper engineer or naval architect. Both the latter would have done the calculations such as you have done.

As loosening the valve clearances did not seem to have any effect, I agree with you.