Tony Brooks

And that is exactly why, if using any mains type plug for 12/24V I advocate NOT wiring to the line terminal.

Don't you understand the different cooling systems operations? Certain internal parts in automotive engines have far more heat directed into them than others. In fact with so much heat needs to be dissipated given half a chance it will cause the coolant to boil at those points, especially at high speeds and loads.This known as localized boiling and is typically around the exhaust valve seats, injector holes and pre-combustion chambers. This is prevented by pressurizing the cooling system so the boiling point of the coolant goes up. (Hence you will often see me say that in canal use most engines will happily run un-pressurized). As soon as you get close to boiling the water starts to deposit any salt or lime dissolved in it so those hot spots fur up. This thermally insulates them so the underlying metal gets even hotter and will eventually crack. On 1.5s it was normally the valve seats. Now, with heat exchanger (indirect raw water), keel, or tank cooling you can pressurize the system to raise the boiling point, just like a vehicle, and the cooling liquid basically stays in the engine circuit so even if you get localized boiling the dissolved chemicals get deposited just once and then the coolant has lost them so no more depositing can take place. With direct raw water cooling not only can you not easily pressurize it but you keep supplying more and more dissolved chemicals to be deposited. The only thing you can do on direct raw water cooled engines is to lower the running temperature so more heat is transferred between metal and water and thus it can't boil. The amount of heat transferred depends upon the relative temperature difference between the metal and water so by lowering the water temperature more heat will transfer. On wet exhaust sea boats this depositing effect can be seen in the exhaust mixing elbows when they fur up with salt and cause overheating.

Tony never ever said removing the thermostat on a keel cooled boat was a good idea. It is, in my view, a good idea on DIRECT RAW WATER cooled BMC 1.5s. A keel cooled boat is little different operationally to a car/van with radiator so a thermostat is important for efficiency and the ability to use waste engine heat for other things.

Either that or its has depressurised. Check the accumulator air pressure with the taps open and pump off. It should be pressurised to the pump cut in pressure or roughly half the cut out pressure.

Yes, you have it.

No, I read about it on here. I don't have a smart phone. Here you go; https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.nas.giri&hl=en_GB&gl=US I am sure Apple has something similar.

As I said this morning, it is the feed for a calorifier coil with the return into the pipe running into the engine water pump.

True, but there should be a suitable fuse at the start of the circuit to protect it. Yes, small 5 amp plus and sockets that will actually safely carry more than that. If you use the live then when an idiot plugs a 12V device into a true mains socket the electrical parts will be at 230V. I am sue those 5A plugs and sockets are far more serviceable than the 12V cigarette lighter sockets.

If using mains sockets for 12V wire to the earth pin and the neural and then it is about as fail safe as it can be. I would go for the 5 amp version though.

Exceptionally expensive!

I understand you can get a strobe rev counter app for mobile phones so you don't need to do any counting or maths. Also buried on the forum somewhere are instructions on how to use a cheap electronic bicycle speedo as a revcounter.

Thanks. It is all clear now. First that little oval at the back of the manifold cover. I think it allows you to fit the feed to the exhaust elbow on a wet exhaust boat. They would drill the cover and then bolt on an outlet adapter. You can see a similar but larger oval under the filler. That would give the option to leave that one un-drilled for a raw water cooled wet exhaust that would not need a filler there. I think the rectangular blanking plate on the front of the manifold is an alternative position for the exhaust elbow that could be used in conjunction with a V drive. Yes, I remembered wrong, it is a marine thermostat housing and it is properly connected. The red pipe out the back of the manifold is the hot water out to the skin tank/keel cooler. Don't be tempted to plumb that into the oil cooler because it would become an oil warmer as it would be in the hot "out of engine" flow. I understand Beta did something similar with not very happy results. The skin tank outlet hose goes to the oil cooler and then on to the water pump inlet. FWIW typically the bracket to hold the fuel filter would be the other way up with the filter mounted lower down. That way if you find the bracket is a bit flimsy so it vibrates you can wedge a piece of wood between it and the head/block. I can now see that the filter you have seems to have a non-standard (for BMCs) banjo bolt thread. It looks as if it uses the same sized banjo and bolt as the injector leak off connection, but please check the diameter and thread carefully. I suspect a double length bolt and two banjos. One from the injectors and the other back to the tank. I think any half decent diesel injection specialist should stock the parts. Check out Poole Diesels The engine is looking good and far better now.

Just to point out the cool box in question seems to use a Danfoss type compressor so is not a Peltiere device. Given similar insulation a top mount a compressor cool box should perform as well or slightly better than a fridge with the same compressor.

Agreed, if it really is at TDC and relying on the valves to give that is no guarantee of accuracy.