Tony Brooks

I doubt it. I did not seem to get a reply to my question about the cranking voltage. It seems some don't see questions that do not conform to their own ideas.

I think it will help you if you study both the maintenance and electrical notes on my website. Cooling systems explained in the maintenance notes. My website

I understand what your concerns are but please be very sure you do not need a licence when in dry dock, I also can't see many actual dry docks being available for long term renovations, and in most cases that sort of work takes far longer that first expected. If you put it on the land then you are correct no licence is needed. I think CaRT do short term licences and as mentioned there are trade plates. It also depends upon where and the distance you need to move it. Realistically as long as you stay away from manned locks you can probably get away with no licence for a few days, and even if clocked CaRT won't have your contact details. I doubt anyone here would condone doing that, but observations suggest it is not that uncommon. I think your mistake if I may call it that was being positive about no licences being required in the past. To my certain knowledge the Thames and Broads have required licences for well over 50 years and there are enamel plates suggesting the Thames requirement goes back nearly 100 years for pleasure craft. I can't see BW/CaRT being any different, but there were always chancers who ignored the regulations.

I think your idea stands the best chance of success as long as you can ensure you do not get an airlock in the pipe when you fill it. It may also help if you can do the flushing with an adaptor on a hose, so you get a bit of volume through the pipe.

A 14" Lenovo laptop and 22" monitor on a home brew desk system. Both running Linux and Firefox browser.

Conversely, I bought a Black and Decker cordless drill and it lasted maybe five years. My Alde one has lasted many, many years and I would expect Lidle ones t be similar but in a green case.

Don't take this as in any way authoritative but a battery voltage dropping by 0.3 volt under just the pump load looks a bit high to me. Depending upon where the meter is connected that may indicate an electrical system that is not quite correct. What sort of fuses/circuit breakers does the boat use? If they are plastic/ceramic torpedo fuses make sure their tips are clean and FIRMLY held by the springy end bits. However, unless the voltage at the motor under load shows a significant drop (say 0.5V maximum) deal with the pump before even thinking about anything else.

It looks like another bot to me. Such advice that is there for caravanners is not very good, just an amalgam of what looks like copied phrases.

Reported as likely chopped ham & pork.

Ditto, and on a small laptop it's annoying, goodness knows how those who use phones get on with the need to scroll down.

It will tell you if there is volt drop between battery and motor. Your 12.8V off load is just the battery voltage and in this case has very little diagnostic value. It certainly in no way supports your view that there is no volt drop. Volt drop will not occur if no, or very few amps are flowing.

Fine in theory, but that did not happen in practice, remember this was over 50 years ago, things were very different then. The OP wanted to know about anchoring in an emergency, that was the only emergency anchoring I had experience off and the anchor held. I suspect most emergency anchoring is down to lack of maintenance in one way or another.