Tony Brooks

By all means use distilled water, you are paying, but on a system like yours tap water will be perfectly adequate, as it is in the vehicles the engine was designed for.

You can be sure that if cost was the only factor, the hire industry would have found a cheaper way. What is the cost for the AC cable plus whatever you are going to put on the end to deliver 12V with adequate current compared with the 12V cable? Have you thought about the consequences of the brick or inverter failing, water supply wise? Cables properly installed and fuse don't fail. Battery charge is all important on boats, have you calculated how you will replace the loss of charge due to the inefficiencies in the inverter and your power brick?

I suspect most of those with long experience would say, "don't try to reinvent the wheel". I would like to see your calculations re cable size, unless you have something very long, they look wrong to me, as others have said. Hundreds of hire boats get by perfectly adequately with thinner cables for the water pump. let alone thousands of private boats, some full length. Depending upon where the pump and other equipment is, you always have the option of running a pair of heavy cables to a fuse/circuit breaker box close to the pump etc. to feed several high currant item, and then use shorter, thinner cables for there. However, that will not help others with fast fault-finding until they understand the wiring.

Is this likely, I suspect the main road has been improved since the time you went there https://www.google.com/maps/search/angling+clubs+near+wakefield/@53.6847853,-1.4712991,432m/data=!3m1!1e3?entry=ttu

That is because of congestion AND the majority of drivers driving at a fairly safe speed, which often is 20 or a little over. It is the idiots that try to go faster and often indulge in dangerous behaviour at traffic lights and multi-lane junctions/roundabouts, let alone going past the right-hand side of keep left islands. That is where the major danger to pedestrians lies so that is what needs addressing. The prats will always be prats until they are stopped.

I agree with that as well, no party in modern history or their supporters can truthfully claim a majority of voters, let alone the electorate voted for them.

That would explain the very slow drop in pressure you found when I think you pressure tested it, but unless it started to dribble under pressure, I can't see the speed of occurrence and severity of the symptoms being related to just a few drips. Edited to add - i don't think that your system is pressurised so ignore the drip under pressure bit, but that does not mean the pump would not start leaking when spinning - horribly unpredictable leak wise when they get old.

And one may ask why 3kW and if you need one that large have you sorted out how you will replace (recharge) the electricity it takes from the batteries. This is very important for the optimum life of lead acid batteries. This will not be a problem if you are using a shoreline and have a decent charger. It is likely to be a problem if relying on an engine alternator and solar for about half a year.

That needs emphasising. That type of electric motor presents only a few ohms of resistance when stationary and a sit accelerates, the "resistance" (inductance) rises sharply. Although the motor type is different, we can see the effect on compressor fridge wiring. Those supplies seem to egt very warm in normal use, so I doubt they can handle much overload.

Exactly, and the more we allow the sloppy use of language, the longer the FPTP system will remain in place, but this is Ian, who seems never to be wrong.

I don't actually agree with that because with a bypass circuit it will all eventually mix, by water pump action, as long as the engine is run until the thermostat opens and then some more. It is central heating, especially gravity systems, where premixing is vital. Not mixing should not cause the overheating the OP is experiencing. However, if the OP has put neat antifreeze in, the cooling capacity will be badly compromised. As I can't read the labels and as they are images I can't put the text into Google Translate, so we don't know if it is neat antifreeze or pre-mix. Yes, Google says they are the same, but it seems Ethanediol should have some numbers associated with it. I suspect (don't know) that there may be subtly different Ethylene Glycols depending upon the number. It seems that you have mixed blue and red antifreeze, that is what we call OAT (Organic Acid) which when mixed can cause the corrosion inhibitors to precipitate and drop out. On cars, this can block the smaller hoses, drillings, and radiator core. Although I don't know for sure, I feel that the precipitate will not be such a problem on your cooling system. If you have put neat antifreeze in, I would suggest that you drain it down, flush the system well, and refill with a 30% mixture and retest. That just might be enough. Or just try it with water to see if it overheats. It won't hurt anything for a couple of weeks.

I thought you would know better than that, exactly when was the last time the majority of voters actually supported the government that got into power, let alone the majority of those entitled to vote. It is a trope often spouted by those who benefit from the FPTP system.

I never complained about the 20 mph zones in built-up areas, for most of the time sensible drivers would be going at that speed anyway, but it such zones have nothing to do with pollution. However, extending the 20 zone at the ends of what was 30, with just a few large house drives on it makes no sense to me. I have nothing against a lower limit when the road is narrow and windy. For example, just ff the A34 west of Abingdon, there is a straight length of road with good sight lines and adequate width, Oxfordshire 50, West Berkshire 60. Absolutely no rhyme or reason for the 50 apart from council dogma. The fact is that Oxfordshire has chosen to punish all motorists rather than enforce the law as it stood. It makes me suspect there are revenue raising advantages from fixed penalties.

The primary filter/water trap is also a 296 element. You may find it easier to change the oil filter and get it reassembled properly if you take it off the engine by removing the two bolts in the filter head, but you may need a new gasket if you do that. Calcutt Boats can supply, probably in packets of 10 or something, so many years worth. You might also think about changing it for a spin on type, again just remove the two bolts and bolt the adaptor plate onto the engine. New, shorter bolts may be required.

To who? You, probably, but not to me when driving them or (for instance) West Berkshire Council where the limit goes back to 60 as soon as Oxfordshire is exited, and other local authority areas. It certainly makes little sense to those who tailgate motorists trying to stick to the limit. It is easier to punish all motorists than enforce the law, especially when you have a council that has shown itself to be anti-car in other matters like Oxfordshire. The road from Banbury to Southam is not particularly windy and, in the main, is perfectly safe at 60 once out of the 30 or 40 built-up area limits.

This is so true. I came across one lock where the beam was so low, neither described positions would have worked very well. It was many years go and might have been on the Chelemer navigation pre-IWA involvement. I can't remember if I used the boat pole to lever from a more sensible height or looped a rope around the beam and pulled. Once it was partially open, my foot was more than capable of opening it fully. That was the navigation, where one lock was leaking from the mitre so badly it would not make a level. When the bod from the Commissioners got there, he partially opened the offending gates and pulled all the paddles so the gates slammed shut, a definite no-no for the Thames and I suspect CaRT locks.

I did it in a similar fashion to you, especially the stiff ones. I think this is just another volly-locky jobsworth. I had one at Foxton who insisted that the way I positioned myself and stooped to operate the paddles not only, as 6ft plus, stressed my back, but also put my face in line with the windlass if it slipped. In that case I emailed CaRT and told them that if I was injured whilst doing it as instructed I would be coming to them for compensation, and then ignore the volly-locky. By doing it the way the OP describes, you use the weight of your body to help push the beam to augment muscle power. It does not prevent you using your leg muscles. I certainly did not use my back muscles.

It seems to me that Oxfordshire has been doing that for years. They have also seemingly been arbitrarily imposing a 50 mph speed limit on the majority of 60 mph single carriage way roads, main roads out in the country at that. I can't see either are solving a pollution issue, and in fact I suspect the 20 zones tend to make it worse. It just looks doctrinal anti-car to me. I am all for 20 mph zones around schools and such like and also through places with lots of pedestrians with narrow roads and no/narrow pavements, in fact elsewhere in that situation 20 mph is about the speed any sensible driver will drive at, the idiots need taking to task, but the excuse of "no money, no resources" is all too easy to give.

Antifreeze has a lower specific heat capacity than water, so pure antifreeze carries less heat away from the engine than pure water. This is why the typical dilution rate is around 30% with an absolute maximum of 50%. Using more than a 50% antifreeze mixture can cause overheating, especially with systems that are not really up to the job they are expected to do for some reason. There are some factory/laboratory produced liquids that have a higher specific heat, and they may well be sold as "cooling fluid" at a suitable price hike, but then maybe pre-mixed antifreeze and distilled water is described in the same way. Without a name so its specifications can be checked, nothing more can be said.

That is not how wide it looks in an earlier photo showing the front of the engine, so it is probably OK then. Just a thought, are you sure the hull bottom does form the bottom of the tank, and the tank is not just siting on the baseplate.

I don't think that your skin tank dimensions are correct. I think it is far too small for the engine. The depth of the tank can be ignored, only the surface area in contact with the water counts. In fact, the deeper the tank, the less effective it is likely to be. I think that you have mixed mm with cm, but the numbers look ok. Looking at the photo, I estimate the tank size is about 5 to 6 inches wide by about 4 to 5 ft long, so 0.5 ft x 5ft = an area of 2.5 sq feet, not the 10 you posted. If my estimation of size is anything like correct, no wonder it overheats. 75 cm is over 2 feet, and your skin tank looks more like 75mm. The 125cm length looks about correct. That gives a tank area of just shy of 10 sq cm or just over 1 sq foot. Please double check my working. Please remeasure that skin tank, length & breadth, ignore the depth. Also be aware that baseplate mounted skin tanks, especially ones as thick as yours looks, are less efficient than vertical ones because hot water rise to the top, away from the cool bottom.

Not saying that you are wrong, but it looks a very strange window to me. It looks as if the glass sites on the lower inner ledge that has the angled side bits that retain the glass fixed to it. If so, then the horizontal part that I think the glass sits on needs a lip on its inner side to stop water simply running off the flat surface into the boat. I wonder if this is an old boat with a wet bilge where the water is supposed to drain as you say, but rather than through the cabin side (and frame) but down into the bilge. I can't get a clear idea of how the window is designed and fitted. Maybe, in the closed position, the glass is lifted out and the dropped back in on the outside of that black up stand that runs the full length of the window. The up stand would keep water out of the boat. When wanted to be open, it is taken out and placed the other side of the black up stand so it can drop back and rest against the triangular supports at each side. One thing is for sure, there seems to be some very odd fixings that you can see in that slot that looks as if it is between the cabin side and part of the frame.

I would say yes, as long as you blank the big hole in the side of the engine or, if not already done, just disconnect the fuel pipes to the old mechanical pump. If they are already disconnected, then the diesel leak into the sump is something else like injectors.