Tony Brooks

Personally I would T it into the highest point in the system so it vents air more easily. Have you tried to use one at 22mm and was successful every time? I can do 15mm with one but find 22mm ande above difficult and often kink the pipe and get the spring stuck.

Yes, pipe fittings, because I know that without a pipe bender it needs skill to bend 22 mm pipe through 90 degrees, let alone 28mm. Ideally you would make the bends yourself so you cam make them even larger than fittings allow but for most it is simply not practical.

I was talking about solder, push fit or compression fittings, whichever you will find easier. The important thing is an elbow so almost a right angle but a bend, while still turning the pipe run through 90 degrees is longer and deeper so it is a much gentler 90 degrees that causes less restriction to flow.

I am not going to comment on the 28mm pipe because the stove outlet seems to be 15mm, rather than 1" BSP but use bends rater than elbows for al the 90 degree bends. I am also not too clear on how you intend to connect the rad. On a gravity system I would expect the got inlet to be at the top in the position the bleed screw can be fitted. As its an oil stove so ca be turned off within seconds and it has a temperature control a circulating pump has far fewer dangers than on a solid fuel stove if gravity circulation does not work as hoped.

When you started you were on about wanting a quality rebuilt BMC and you made no mention of wanting to take it to Jamaica under its own power or sail. I also told you that an ex lifeboat Bukh might be a good idea. In typical inland use and I suspect estuary and inshore use in the UK 1.5s are reliable enough but they still only have three bearing crank plus torsional oscillation damper and the long term integrity of the crank relies upon that damper. Any contamination of the rubber in the damper by oil, fuel, or other hydrocarbons like degreasing fluid is likely to alter is oscillation frequency and make snapping the crank more likely. You don't know the full history of the engine you showed the video of and from what we can see of it it is clearly a very old engine with bits missing. The shaft is perhaps the most catastrophic failure that might occur but then there are other possibilities unless you know pretty much the full history AND exactly what was done in the rebuilds. Note that, builds plural. The camshaft and pump drive skew gears can wear, the lubricator strainer can fall appart or block, although that should be picked up on a decent rebuild. Timing chains stretch and tensioners wear out, although they should have ben changed, and I have even seen timing sprockets with worn teeth. Perhaps the biggest problem with taking such an engine to the other side of the Atlantic is the CAV DPA pump. Our European members seem to have problems getting them serviced and unless the pump has been properly rebuilt leaking from the main shaft seal into the sump is always possible. Just remembered, it is far from uncommon for to crank case oil mist trap to clog up completely. However I am sure a similar but different list could be draw up for the Ford engines as found in the Rother class lifeboats. You started off, months ago, talking about your need for quality and reliability and seem to have gradually changed from that to "make do and mend" with cost seeming to be your main concern now hence the apparent need to buy from the likes of Ebay and then complain about the quality as per your instrument panels. Then there was your selection of potential engine mounts that was clearly done on cost and not suitability. Your sources of information seem to be suspect, like the RNLI "engineer" who allegedly told you the Rother class boats used BMC 1.5s. Even when people try to explain the problems you have bought yourself you seem to try to ignore them and they accuse them of advising expensive courses of action. One thing I am sure of is that to get that video engine installed to a decent reliable standard is going to cost more than if a better engine had been bought. Then there is the gearbox. You claimed it is a Borg Warner but it looks nothing like the ones usually fitted to 1.5s. Yes. i did initially say it MIGHT be a TMP and asked for further photos. After a bit of pondering I realised the control lever on the "turret" looks more like an early PRM and gave you a link so you could check. You then agreed and came back with another link as confirmation. The next thing we know is that you are trying to by an oil cooler for a TMP box from ASAP supplies, even when I suggested that you go back and look at the relevant posts you keep on about a TMP box. One thing is for sure, a TMP box is likely to be very old and is arguably the least reliable hydraulic box while Borg Warner and PRM are the most reliable. Any negativity has more to do with what you seem to be buying, your stated intentions, your sources of information, and the way you seem to be going than any 1.5 in good condition from a reputable rebuilder.

Ah, Like StephenA I had that down as spilled paint.

I can''t even see what might look like grey emulsified oil. I can see what looks like a badly cleaned and then gloss painted black engine drip tray though.

looks like a Borg Warner Velvet drive to me. It uses ATF (Dexron). Check the oil level. The filler has a dip stick under it and it is the square headed plug between there cable n the left and the silver gear cable. Make sure the silver gear cable is actually moving the control and if t is, disconnect it and try the control lever by hand. If neither work it may be the drive pate but unless you have had chattering noises and a noisy drive take up over the last months a box rebuild is more likely. When the box s split I seem to remember a fibre mesh oil strainer as per car auto boxes and that MIGHT be blocked.

A blocked filter in the lift pump is, in my view, unlikely to cause a misfire but may cause a loss of power/speed,. An air leak into the lift pump from the large O ring in the cap or the soft washer around the cap bolt just might cause a misfire but more likely the engine would rev up and stop. The strainer in the injection pump rarely causes a problem in a half decently maintained engine but if it did partially block the engine would most likely rev itself up a bit.

Yes, but I forgot the master switch - especially if it has a red plastic removable key.

If dirty or if t has been fitted with closed cell foam it might explain the "blue" smoke that may be greyish black, but unlikely to cause a misfire as described. try it with no filter.

Drity/loose start battery terminals. Big multi-plug in the engine loom, probably near the starter. try pulling apart and pushing it back together. Inline fuse, again hidden away near the starter blown/dirty. Remember that on the majority of boats the engine start and domestic batteries are separate systems. Good domestics does not mean the start battery is good.

I wonder how much backlash you have in the camshaft and injector pump drive. If only does it at idle I would suspect excess backlash. This could be a stretched timing chain and worn tensioner or, if you have not been cleaning the injector drive lubricator and strainer, worn pump drive and/or camshaft skew gears. I don't know how confident you feel about taking the pump off and checking how much play there is in the drive or taking the timing cover off for a look-see.

I think that you have a heat exchanger (indirect raw water) cooled engine and those are usually more than capable of running a calorifier and it would also tend keep the engine cooler while the calorifier heats up.

Just to point out that, although not in Lincolnshire as far as I know, the OP may find the Nene or Middle Levels to be close enough.

In that area for prolonged cruising you may need three licenses. Environment Agency, Middle level Commissioners and CaRT. The EA and CaRT one can be combined into one Gold License. Then there is the one from the Cam Commissioners as well. To hire out legally your boat needs to be built and regularly examined to a different standard , more demanding, than a private boat, will need more expensive licence(s), different, and more expensive insurance, plus whatever "operating base" requirements the licensing authority. Then there is the question of how you cope with the inevitable breakdowns. It is generally considered not to be viable. There has been at least one case of someone hiring "under the radar" loosing their boat.

The reason no one will tell you the hp is that (from memory) Newage gave 3 hp figures. Continuous, intermittent with limitations to period and frequency, and maximum. The there is the fact that most displacement boats prop for maximum toruqe, not maximum speed so the engine is prevented form reaching the maximum hp speed. With the flywheel housing and front engine mounts shown on the video that is a very old 1.5 produced long before the 1.8 was even thought of. Apart from that the timing cover and injector pump position is correct for a 1.5 and wrong for a 1.8. If you initial choice for a 1.5 was based on what that engineer told you be aware that the 1.5 has a three bearing crank plus a torsional oscillation damper to prevent it snapping itself. I don't know the Ford unit in detail but I fully expect it to be a five bearing crank without a torsional oscillation damper. I would not like to use a 1.5 these days for long distance cruising a long way from the UK, properly overhauled or not.

A land is a piece of a stricture that stick out, usually related to locating something, so in this case it would be a sticky out bit that fits the hole in the middle of the multi-groove pulley so it has to be central and run true.