Tony Brooks

so would I. If it were mine, I think I would be trying to make one. I doubt a drill would get low enough, so possibly something like a die grinder/Dremel, but it would take a while.

Remember, Thames cruisers usually use great big fenders, even the hire boats, that would hold them clear of those stubs. For narrowboats even some EA lock lay-bys are so high cruiser stern narrowboats can drift under them. I don't think narrowboat needs feature in Thames facilities in too many cases.

I have suggested that he does just that, but very much doubt he will oblige

Many thanks for the report back, many don't bother.

Yes/sort of. The M1 bridge is virtually on top of the point where boats make a turn to enter Sawely lock cut, so if the truck went off the south end of the bridge it might hit a boat, if the north end then I doubt it would as it is close to the weir, and I would be well to the south.

That seems to make them more user-friendly then.

No way, you seem to understand people are trying to help and guide you, and I have never noticed you nor the OP "having a pop" at other members' advice.

To simplify, why what David said is important and the controller instructions usually emphasise it, controllers are usually12/24volt inputs and the controller decides what voltage battery it is connected to. If you disconnect the batteries there is no load on the panels so they got o maximum voltage, say from 20V upwards. This makes the controller think it is on a 25 volts system, and we have had instances of overcharging because the controller thought it was connected to a 24 volt bank. I hope a reset as per David's instructions sorts it and the controller is not damaged.

Neither, look at who I quoted and who's conduct I commented upon. Neither you nor the OP has managed to clock p 2000 posts yet, but I hope that you both stick around and will do eventually.

All the tools you list take up space, as does 8x4 sheets and probably many tens of meters of battening. Fine if you have a workshop ashore, but much more difficult inside a narrowboat, or even outside in inclement weather. It also is likely to involve even more cost to buy the tools, and you seem to ignore the charging requirements for power tools being used for hours at a time. No one was trying to persuade anyone not to live life to the fullest, but we were urging caution and knowing what they are getting into. I just hope that the OP has clocked the effort you seemed to put into designing your own self fit out, you seemed to have thought better of it - care to explain to the op, and the rest of us why. Yes, nearly any timber merchant will cut to your cutting list, but at a cost and any small outfit may well want to supply the materials where you have less choice over the quality of what you will get. I honestly don't understand why a Johnny Come Lately who has managed to clock up 2000 posts in a very few months feels the need to have a pop at those with considerable practical experience and in many cases qualifications to back their opinions up, rather than seemingly believing everything they see on YouTube. Nothing wrong with that, but it does tend to extend the time needed to complete the full fit out.

Loose/corroded cable terminations somewhere? Make sure the connections on the MPPT are clean and tight for a start.

I don't think anyone is saying don't do a self fit out, but we are saying please go into with your eyes wide open.

So true, when I did a partial refit all fitted furniture was built at home, using jigs as required, and after very careful measuring the ply sheets were mainly cut at home, but it was still difficult working in the confined space of a narrowboat cabin.

Back to the glitter in the oil. Do what KIB advised. Swirl a decent magnet around in the oil and if the glitter collects on it then it is steel bearing material, if not it is likely to be cutch material and arguably less of an immediate concern.

All I can say to help is that I paid a deposit subject to survey, engaged a surveyor of my choice, the vendor (a boat hire company) gave me the details of a nearby dry dock so I could book and coordinate them and the surveyor. I can't remember if I or the yard took the boat for survey, but I think it was me. Survey was OK apart from a load of nitpicks, so paid in full and had it blacked at the dry dock. I think you said that you know little about boats and in that case the fact that is has an uncommon UK inland engine, marinised by goodness knows who, would cause me concerns. If you have to get professional help someone who relay knows that engine is likely to eb difficult to find, as are engine parts. Like wise, what constitutes "good stuff" in your eyes. There is a world of difference between, say, a Victron or Mastervolt inverter and a flash looking job from Ebay/Amazon. As long as you accept that it will take you three to five times longer than you think and cost three to five times more to complete it, it is one way, and probably very rewarding. BUT if/when you come to resell it and want to avoid having to reduce the price, or pay for a Post Construction Assessment to ensure it complies with the Recreational Craft Regulations (RCR/RCD) you need to ensure you fit out to the RCR and that requires access to a load of ISOs to be sure, nad possibly proffesional fees to help you. I fear this will open up a whole lot more debate about the value of the RCD/RCR and the need for it, but it is an aspect that many self fitters seem unaware of and it is a legal requirement, even if it is not actively enforced. Edited to add: I used to be involved with fitting out GRP hire cruisers and despite our best efforts and Gantt charts I think we never ever hit the end dates, all fit outs over ran for various reasons, and the chippies could handle and cut 8x4 ply sheets inside the boat, that will be much more difficult in a narrowboat.

If you let us know roughly where this boat is located and someone may know a nearby facility that can get the boat high enough. For instance, Calcutt have/had a straddle carrier that could lift the boat high enough, but that is no good if the boat is a long way away.

There is no reason an inland boater can not do the same if they are that worried. In this topic there is no question of the outlet being below the water line, just lower than the ISO/BSS demand/recommends

and the ISO for the RCD/RCR I expect. At least on a steel boat, the stub for any hose or pipe can be welded in, rather than relying on a brass/bronze flange on a skin fitting that can get knocked off. After all virtually all sea boats will have underwater skin fittings for their toilets, let alone logs and depth sounders. Worrying over hull outlet height seems pretty pointless to me as long as the sink rim height meets the ISO and BSS.

FWIW, I have seen enough to believe MIC is a thing on canals BUT there is a big problem in getting many yards to recognise it as such, or maybe willing to learn how to recognise it and differential between MIC and electrical corrosion form the no GI/IT type. I would trust Matty give a fair account of his experience.