Tony Brooks

If it is a standard 9 diode alternator and the fixing centres are the same then it will just fit. You might have to change the terminals on the wires to fit the new alternator. The back (brush end) fixing usually has a sliding bush that allows the brackets to up to about 1/4" difference. You can carefully slide the bush to allow the alternator to fit but support the bracket on something like a socket while you tap the bush, to prevent the hammer blows snapping the bracket.

As you are stuck with a single V belt the absolute maximum you should consider fitting is 90 Amps. If you go higher you may well run into short belt life problems. I think Calcutt may fit twin alternators to a 1.8 so if they will sell you the kit you could add another alternator and a bidirectional VSR to combine the outputs when the batteries will accept a high charge. I would probably stick at 70 to 80 amps with a 14.5 regulated voltage.

It looks like it ha s similarities to the Lucas A127 so the regulator is the funny shaped thing between 7 & 9 o'clock. The brushes are almost certainly mounted on it so if you undo the three small securing screws and very carefully start to lift it so you can pull the blade connector you can then see off. Then sort of twist the outer edge upwards and move the regulator to the left so you can get the brushes to clear the aperture. Make sure you look down the hole at the two brass/copper slip rings to ensure they are not worn through. The brushes and slip rings look OK the chances are you need the alternator overhauled.

As long as the engine was revving at 1200 rpm plus then you should have got well over 14 volts with batteries well on their way to being fully charged (2.65) so if the drive belt is tight I suspect it is a faulty alternator. Probably lost a diose or two, but with erratic output it could be a bad solder joint or perhaps worn out brushes. Any chance of a photo of the terminal end of the alternator so we can see what it is.

I do wonder who pays the fuel cost, it might be difficult for struggling families to fine. OBs are not known for the best fuel consumption and petrol is hard to come by on canals. Also, electricity use will probably need to be minimized because OBs tend not to charge at a very high rate. Depends on how long he boat will be away from base for and if you have mains charging at the base.

Thanks, all clear now.

Ah, skipped over the refurbished bit. Sounds like it has an unworked on lift and injector pump so may well be a spray gun refurbishment. To the OP, have you checked the valve clearances?

I assume there must be a nut hidden behind the washer and seal that allows the crossbar to be pulled up onto the tank.

Thanks but not much more help. Unless you turned the fuel tap off on leaving the boat (most don't) a leak from the pump diaphragm would probably slowly fill the sump with the engine off by gravity. It would probably take longer to do the same via the injector pump seal, but it was left for months so lots of time. I suspect two problems. The fuel leak into the engine and they what prevents it starting. It sounds like low compression or glow plugs not working so have the glow plugs out and test them on the end of the normal supply cable. That will show if it is a plug or supply issue. It might be really bad injectors but if so it should be producing clouds of white smoke when cranking. If it is then get the injectors overhauled. The BMC ones have a tiny hole to aid cold starting and they do block in time. Unless you know what it feels like to turn a good 1.8 over by hand the best way of checking compression is with a test gauge. Your brother should have access to a diesel compression tester that fits the glow plug holes. Expect 400psi plus per cylinder.

I think the washer and rubber seal goes on top and it looks as if you can tilt the crossbar so it will pass through the 25mm hole. However, I can't see how the crossbar is pulled up against the top of the tank. I don't know, but fear, that it is designed for a tank with an inspection hatch so you can get your hand & tools inside. If I am correct I fear there will be a lot more metalwork to do.

Fair enough, not a decision I would have come to because electricity is valuable but if looks matter it is understandable.

Not so sure about that. The post read as if the oil had not been checked for some time so t might have been a slow build up. If it built up with the engine stationary then I agree. However, the test I outlined should show a split diaphragm and it only takes minutes as part of the removal process.

The depth of the frame on mine was about 25mm so standing about 50mm to the top of the frame at the side and maybe 30mm in the centre. Would the ones you looked at be house type panels, I would exepct them to have a deeper frame for the more exposed position.

Having to stand 4" high at the sides sounds a lot to me, your roof must have a very high curve. My rigids stood about less than 1" high at the sides but admittedly they were narrowish panels to give a small walk way and rope lay either side.

You use some type of tachometer on the bottom engine pulley. It could be mechanical or stroboscopic. Somewhere in the forums there are instructions on how to use a cycle speedo for this duty. I suspect most smart phones now have access to a strobe rev counter app. Most electric rev counters have a means of adjustment, so it is a question of looking in the manual.