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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. Our D3.152 oil pressure reading behaves in a similar way. The only spec. for oil pressure I can find is 30psi at 1000rpm .... We have both a gauge and pressure switch on our engine and slowing down after a good run the oil warning light flickers for a short while when the revs drop right down; but the gauge shows about 10-15 psi . A slight speed up and let the revs drop back and the light goes off! We do tend to run our engine quite slowly compared to how they would have been run for "real work" and I do notice that hire boats using this engine tend to be run much faster than ours especially at tickover. ( 1400rpm will move us at 7mph on the Great Ouse so we only use a slightly fast tickover on the canals ) For what its worth the oil pressure is being read, I think, from the camshaft feed and that has a cut out in the shaft which causes pulses in pressure switch readings but I assume the (electrical) gauge sender must damp these pulses . Our engine was purchased "marinised". I think from a sold-off ex ministry pump. We did have considerable oil dilution from leaking seals on the fuel injection pump which caused a real drop in oil pressure.
  2. Best I can do for the moment, Hope that will explain.... The picture here was taken when we moved the hull from the builders and the engine was just bolted down for transit. This is the rear Stbd. mount - its part of our gearbox housing, the other feet are similar but different ;-) The finger points to the engine bolt which is now fitted from the top as described by the sketch.
  3. I'll try and find a picture for you. BTW where are you based? ( PM me if you like), you could come over and have a proper look and listen.
  4. Yes good point. I try for the easy way though ;-) bolts dropped down allows for fitting one at a time and avoids trying to line up four things at once. An extra washer under the bolt head will lift it up for some more clearance, And a thin disk on the angle grinder will make quick work of trimming to length. In some more engineered installs they would bore a "rattling fit hole" in the bearer for the bolt end to pass through.
  5. To answer the connection question for differing size cables. How about "line taps" Try TLC part BH S16 or S25/35 https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Line_Taps/index.html Sorry, it's getting back on topic.....
  6. It's Just occurred to me! When fixing the engine down I made slots under the timber bearers to allow the spreader plates and nuts to be fitted with the engine in place. (my spreader plates are threaded for the bolts) The bolts can then be dropped in from the top of the feet and the engine doesn't need lifting for assembly :-) ,and it avoids a lot of juggling. The bolts ,of course need to be arranged to NOT touch the metal bearers. The same goes for the bolting down onto the boat steel work... Then the engine can be slid along the beds using the timber as a sled. Useful for maintenance and easier for fitting shims if needed
  7. The driveline vibration was in fact a banging noise like rattling a half brick in a bucket :-) it didn't shake the boat just stopped us engaging gears at low engine speeds; so we had to wind the speed back down after putting into gear at higher revs. We have separate speed wheel and gear change so not impossible in practice but a pain that got fixed as soon as we got onto the canal system! The Tico is a good idea and I have used it successfully for higher frequency noise on heavy machine tools -- I did get some pads ready for when we were getting the engine setup and running, but, I never got round to trying them out. It might be a good idea also to check that the engine sits evenly on all four feet; try rocking it on the diagonals to check. I should mention this is a traditional engine room with a universal joint propshaft under the back cabin floor.
  8. Our boat has a D3.152 which is mounted onto 4" x 3"(approx) oak bearers which in turn are bolted onto the engine beds. The engine beds are something like 10 x 5 angles running along the engine room. This set up has been fine for us from tick over at 500rpm to 1400rpm which takes us to 7mph on the river. When we first saw and tried the engine in the workshop before we purchased it it was standing on a fairly lightweight cradle and it seemed smooth enough through the range. We had a problem with drive line vibration when we got onto the canals but once we got the drive plate sorted all has been OK.
  9. Try this I hope it helps... Most systems use a masthead amplifier near to the aerial which is powered by DC on the aerial feeder (which in effect then both carries power and signal; the signal is separated, by capacitors,from the power). Now at some point the DC voltage for the amplifier has to be regulated, usually this is on the amplifier at the masthead but with the Moonraker the DC is regulated on the DC injector( power supply) rather than the amplifier. ( I have checked this to be so with Moonraker technical.) What you refer to as a "booster box" is I THINK in fact the power supply; so DC goes up the feeder and the connection to the TV just carries the signal which has been amplified at the masthead. In your case I wonder if there is some issue with the power connection. For background:: We originally had a masthead amp powered by a DC injector which we then connected to either a Yagi(log periodic) or a little stub antennae depending on signal strength. When we tried out the Moonraker I realised (and checked) the power supply was different and fitted an additional feeder setup. This has worked as well or better than the original aerials which are still stored away, not used now since the new setup!
  10. We have been using a Moonraker for a few years and it has performed remarkably well; from Great Ouse area up to Ripon and across the Pennines. We even got some useful signals in places where an amplified aerial had not worked previously. A couple of points: The voltage regulator for the amp is in the Moonraker DC injector module, UNLIKE normal aerial amps (so DON'T try connecting it on an aerial feed with DC on it! ) It is useful to raise the aerial on a mast and rotate it (check for polarisation on a relay) if reception is poor But generally it just works.
  11. Steel pigeon/dog boxes don't have to be the cause of condensation problems if built the right way. I was concerned about condensation from the roof lights when we had our hull built but Roger said there would be no problems the way he would make ours-- He was absolutely right. Our roof lights are fitted over an up stand on the roof of the cabin and the lids have lips which turn down,this arrangement causes any drips to end up outside the boat. The clearance gaps and slot vents also provide the basic minimum of high level ventilation needed for the cabin and because they are quite long there is less of a draft than a normal mushroom vent. Our boat has only portholes but the usual comment from people visiting is "how light it is inside" and as previously noted there is rarely a good view out of the side when tied up. (some ones cabin side or a dogs bum on the towpath ;-)
  12. Just a thought, but might this be a similar issue to one of our dogs being absolutey scared of going near or traveling in our car.( so how would we get to the boat?) He would always leave the house and pull over to the other side of the garden furthest away from the car whenever we went out for a walk. It 's sorted out now and he travels fine any where car, boat or train..... It was in someways the weirdest thing we have had to deal with in all our rescued dogs, but really the most rewarding. The approach known as "systematic desensitisation"; is to subject the patient(dog) is to increasing periods of the stressor for periods shorter than that which would take it to be upset. {Its a completely benign technique, rather than the Woodhouse "flooding method" and is supposed to be longer lasting!} Right. I'll try to explain the practicalities. We first just sat in the car, in a closed garden, with the doors open and read the paper/ had a cup of coffee so the dog could wander around suit himself, eventually he became comfortable getting into the car.... Then the interesting bit comes we had to gradually increase the time we ran the the engine/ moved the car; but by amounts so small that he didn't notice and on NO ACCOUNT LET HIM GET DISTURBED. In this case we could only manage increases of 30seconds each time or so but GRADUALLY to get to half an hour; at which point the issue was resolved!!! --- I don't know why the turning point is reckoned as half an hour but that is the "magic" time. I hope that makes sense, please ask if I can help more, I have cut the details rather short keep the post manageable. I do hope you can get your pet happy on the boat . John
  13. How can volunteers without expertise be allowed the to dictate how we use the fatalities we have paid for ???? We too were somewhat peeved when Kathy was told that the locks were closed when she inquired at 2:45. A bit later on as I went down to sort out rubbish etc. I discovered the Volockies bringing a boat up the flight I did ask if we could come down and pass in the middle (as we have done on previous occasions) but this was refused. Chatting later I discovered the volly had no interest in boating or boaters needs but was there because he enjoyed the power and needed something to do since retiring! Now we build our boats,pay large sums of money to be able to use the waterways and its locks and in doing so provide entertainment to the non-boating visitors. Should there be a category of volunteer boater ;-) John & Kathy
  14. Just been told this lock now has an early closure. ---- people have had to turn back. Sneaked onto CRT site. We, and several are others, are having to return south :-( John and Kathy
  15. We have just done your planned route and came onto the G.U. and moored near the junction this afternoon. Everything has gone quite smoothly and the Rothersthope locks were, unusually, all adequately in water. 3 3/4 hours without trying.( We have been through a few times though and know how to use a bike to set the locks optimally for the low pounds). I imagine our staging of the journey will be different from yours but Please ask if we can help with a specific question. John & Kathy
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