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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About steamraiser2

  • Birthday 02/26/1953

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  1. As Martyn said, end float and detectable lift on the crankshaft. Any end float above a few thou is generally a pretty good indicator of a developing problem.
  2. The core of your problem is the throughput. A vehicle stat, or even a Cat D9, will be too small. What you have is a Spirax version of a Mason valve, not common and very expensive. It may be worth contacting Woods of Crediton. They have a yard full of ex Royal Navy parts and may well have something to suit.
  3. I would have thought that a 3LW would not produce enough heat to make this run efficiently. I think that Jones the Nuke is on the right track when mentioning the condensation and black soot which is sure to follow. We always fit a decent thermostat system to the engines (dozens and dozens over the years). This enables the engine to run at the optimum temperature which narrowboat engines seldom do and, once warmed up to supply hot water to one of the calorifier coils. This always works well. The heat loss through the calorifier system is usually significant with the result that the engine stat seldom fully opens and it is unusual for cooling water to circulate through the skin tank except when thrashing up a river etc. The other thing to bear in mind is the need to prevent circulation through the engine related part of the circuit when the engine is off. Engines make splendid heat sinks and will cool the water in the calorifier overnight.
  4. Look out for the anguished wailing when someone posts a soundtrack of their beloved engine and promptly gets told that that it's clapped. No owner is happy hearing that 😫
  5. A few years back there was a lot of bar room chatter down here in Dorset about a joint venture between Hall & Woodhouse (Badger) and Fullers to build a new joint brewery. The driver was the redevelopment of both existing brewery sites for housing. The rumour was that they were looking at potential sites in the Slough area. The idea seemed to die the death when the North Dorset District Council was less than enthusiastic about the housing use idea unless a new brewery was built locally first. Shrewd on their part I think. In the event a new brewery was built on part of the existing site. The old brewery is currently being converted into apartments. I can't imagine for a second that the Griffin brewery will last more than five minutes under the new owners. Maybe they will build a new brewery elsewhere or brew in the H & W brewery in Blandford? H & W's bottled beers are great the cask stuff less so. London Pride brewed in Dorset and sold in Fullers and H & W pubs?. Sounds like a plan to me
  6. Dave , I hadn't noticed your request for dimensions. Drop me a pm with your requirements and I'll measure the one newly arrived here.
  7. CE2s have a one piece rocker cover so I think it could be a CS...not a common engine in a narrowboat
  8. It's a JP1. We had a marinised one of these in our show trailer a few years back. There wasn't a JP1M built. Ours had a Velvet Drive gearbox
  9. No it wouldn't. Its fine for alternators, water pumps and compressors but drive to a gearbox will need a proper drive flange.
  10. Fitting a drive pulley to a marine JP is easy peasy. We use a drive shaft adaptor that replaces the large flywheel nut. To this we fit a taper lock pulley and boss sized for the speed and alternator type. In fact, By Ecks engine shown in an earlier response has such a set up. We have fitted dozens of them over the years. Standard on our marine JPs and converted JPs
  11. steamraiser2

    2LW leak

    Easy enough and,yes,you will have to drain it down.
  12. steamraiser2

    2LW leak

    An easy fix and not an uncommon place for a leak. A little gasket goop is probably the easiest route. Check that the pump to crankcase mating face is ok, sometimes they need a thicker joint or a shim
  13. I suppose that it is possible that either a: the old oil filter was a 20 micron element and the new one is 30 micron or bigger or b: that a bit of carbon / debris/ fluff etc has been displaced and is affecting the pressure relief valve so that it is leaking back a little. Assuming of course that the oil pressure gauge is working correctly.
  14. If I were you I would stick to the SAE30 as Gardner recommended. The key is using an oil of the correct detergency and viscosity. In my experience what you are noticing with the multigrade is the oil behaving how a multigrade should. It behaves like a thin oil when cold and a thicker one when warmed up. I have always found that engines run on the correct grade and viscosity changed at regular intervals always do better in the end. Gardners are pretty basic machines by modern standards. Good oil and good fuel and they will usually run on for years and years. Flushing them can just as easily be done with either the straight or multigrade oil it will make little difference so,either or. Back in the day we used to flush the truck Gardner engines with SAE10 oil bought in for the purpose. It had an additive in it, no idea exactly what it was. An hour idling in the yard was the procedure, You could not load the engine up at all. I suspect it was nothing more than oil cut with diesel or kerosene maybe. It certainly washed them out well. Used to catch the drainings through a fine filter looking for whitemetal etc. With the advent of full flow oil filters we stopped doing it as the modern high detergency oil we used in the Ford and Perkins engined stuff kept them spotless anyway. So the Gardners just got an oil change on a Saturday morning prior to the driver giving the truck a wash. All the fleet got this at least once a month. It worked as many of the Fodens were 750000 miles plus without any major repair work.
  15. You are on the cusp of the grade change between temperate and tropical zones. If you are between the temps you quote most of the time you could consider changing to a SAE 40 oil. Finding some could prove a challenge although I suspect Morris Oils could help you. If your oil pressure drops as you describe when the temp is lower you need to consider the oil relief valve setting and the general wear and tear of your engines bottom end. Gardners running in tropical temps do not normally object unless they are well worn.
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