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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About steamraiser2

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  1. steamraiser2

    Peculiar JP oil leak

    JPs often leak around just about all the studs in the head. Bearing in mind that they were drilled and tapped manually it's not unusual. We put sealant on ours as a matter of course.😉 Nothing to worry about
  2. steamraiser2

    Oil pressure issues

    Narrow boats tend to idle for far too long and are often lightly loaded. Running on SAE 30 helps with oil pressure at very low rpm and isn't an issue with electric start engines. It's a common "upgrade" if you could call it that.
  3. steamraiser2

    Oil pressure issues

  4. steamraiser2

    Oil pressure issues

    Yes you can, I usually use a prybar behind the flywheel. hopefully you will barely detect any movement. Your oil pump is fine which is good to hear.
  5. steamraiser2

    Oil pressure issues

    What you have described is pretty typical of a Lister showing some wear in the bottom end or a tired oil pump. The old adage of "if it shows some oil pressure leave it alone" certainly applies to older Lister types but I would not include the HR2s in that category. There is a general , non scientific, way of seeing if your crank is showing signs of wear. Check the end float by trying to move the crank along its axis a little. If it moves backwards and forwards more than 10 thou or so the thrust face is likely to be worn. If that is indicated it is a pretty safe bet that the main bearings are showing their age too. As a rule of thumb it is a pretty good indicator of the likelihood of main bearing wear as Lister bottom ends tend to wear the mains out before the thrust faces. Served me well for fifty years. How long does your oil pressure take to come up when first started.?If it is taking less than 10 to 15 seconds it is unlikely to be the pump, much more than that and I would be considering a change. That said I don't think that you have anything much to worry about at the moment. Keep an eye on it for any deterioration and get some load on it to lessen the blue smoke. Keep using the SAE 30 if I were you. Enjoy!😉
  6. steamraiser2

    Changing oil grade in a JP2

    With a JP it really depends on if you hand start it or not. We supply our engines initially filled with SAE30 ( API SD/CC) oil. Generally this is fine for all of the electric start JPs we do. However, hand swinging a JP in cold weather is a different thing entirely. If I were you are I would run it on SAE20 if you do hand start it fairly often. If you expect to hand start it in the coldest of winter weather the use of an SAE 10 oil can make the difference between success and failure. Back in the day it was normal to run on 10 weight oil from October to April on the old JPs on a whole range of plant I used to maintain. Back then oil technology was very different and engine oil was far gloopier than now. ( Gloopy: 1960s term for oils reluctant to pour in cold conditions, similarly referred to as p*** in plus 70F conditions 😉)
  7. steamraiser2

    HW3 oil pressure

    Your oil pressure should be in the 30/45 psi range. I would investigate why yours is so low as a matter of urgency if I were you. Check your filter,if you have one, and the oil pressure relief valve.
  8. steamraiser2

    liner puller

    And then there was the guy who had leaky o rings and listened to " man on the canal" who advised cracking an egg into the header tank, which he did every day. Death by omelette 😂
  9. steamraiser2

    liner puller

    Only half a ton ? 😀
  10. steamraiser2

    liner puller

    The Lister JP / JS / JK range of engines were built to tight tolerances for their day and remain a reliable and robust engine. We restore a lot of them and have dealt with many that have never been overhauled before. To last up to 80 years without major surgery is a fine record indeed. If you find that you need new parts fit quality stuff and avoid the dross that is out there in such large quantities these days. As to reusing your liners, the chances of that will depend on the level of corrosion as much as bore wear. JP blocks rot immediately above the point where the O rings sit which can be a challenge when reassembling them. If your engine has never seen sea water it should be fine, if it has good luck to you. We often have to reblock sea damaged engines. Our liner puller can exert 60 tons of force and we have topped it out many times. Again this is dependant on the level of corrosion at the bottom of the block.If they come out very easily I would be very suspicious that they are low quality aftermarket parts. Some of the pattern parts available are slightly undersize at the bottom where the O rings sit. Lister did both chromed and plain liners the chrome ones being commonest. On inspecting yours if the chrome is worn or rusted through the liner is scrap. A wear lip means scrap. As I said built to tight tolerances. Don't use sealant on the O rings ,a little swarfega or washing up liquid will help a lot. Pop the liner into the block and tap it home with a dense block of hardwood. I use a piece of greenheart as broad as a railway sleeper about a foot long. One firm thump with the block,no hammer, and it's always home. Make sure you set the bumping clearance correctly and avoid the over thick knock off head gaskets out there. Check out the various JPs on the Marine Power Services video pages and if your engine isn't running as cleanly as those something isn't right.
  11. steamraiser2

    Cracked blackstone box

    The reality is that 8 out 10 customers go for a modern box. Most chuck away the ram pump too. Vintage engine without the hassle is the usual reason although some cite their wife's preference for a lightweight gear change. What I don't get is the virtual conversion of a JPM to match one of our industrial modifications. The industrial conversions are usually cheaper and none of them have ever seen the sea......you pays your money and makes your choice of course.
  12. steamraiser2

    Cracked blackstone box

    We only have complete gearboxes here. Most of our customers ditch them in favour of our PRM conversion. I'll have a look but don't think that there are breakers there just entire boxes.
  13. steamraiser2

    Cracked blackstone box

    If you decide to go for a repair drop me a pm. We have a pile of them in the warehouse. Unlikely that we will ever use them
  14. steamraiser2

    Information required

    I used to look after a six cylinder one in a locomotive. Reckon it's around 1956/7. Yours is possibly a compressor motor . Seen them in gas plants too
  15. steamraiser2

    Samofa 2-S-108

    If I were you I wouldn't wait to modify the calorifier feed and the flow piping to the skin tank. You run the risk of cooking your engine as it is

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