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About steamraiser2

  • Birthday 02/26/1953

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    nuclear engineer

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  1. The price differential between the market price of electric start JP2Ms and JP3 as core engines for restoration is the reason. £2500 for a rot free JP2M is around the going rate while we buy in JP3s at £500 or less. The rotten water rail on the one being commented on was not à good sign. I reckon it sold for twice it's worth. As with Gardner's the twins are always worth way more than the three cylinder variants. Market forces.
  2. You were lucky. We have had to go to 60 tons to shift them more than once. Nothing like a bit of salt water corrosion to rot them in!
  3. Firstly, Back in the day the oil of choice for these Perkins types was usually a straight 30 although I doubt that is has any bearing on your problem. To me this is more than likely a gauge issue. I've had similar on a old Dorman where the gauge seemed to have a mind of its own. Personally I would change it for an oil filled gauge which are far better at damping than the old fashioned ones.
  4. Take a look at the Woods of Crediton website. They had P6s and gearboxes ex RN stock for not much money. A transplant may be a cheap option
  5. Marine Power Services. Off the shelf item
  6. about £100 to test and calibrate, £200 to strip and rebuild plus parts. A truly clapped pump needing elements & bearings and delivery valves etc could easily get up towards £600. Hard to estimate until its is stripped and checked
  7. Not really. We get pump camshafts made these days. So it's not the end of the world. We recondition quite a lot of these pumps for our own and customers engines. The fuel injection side of the business is fast catching up with the engine restoration and parts business it seems
  8. One spring is for speed control the other is meant to damp the action of the other to prevent hunting at tick over. Over complicated for no good reason. I wonder if one/ both of the springs is/are stretched or of the wrong poundage always assuming that its not simply an air in fuel issue.
  9. You are right in your assumptions. You really should get someone who knows about your engine to show you the ropes. It is very easy to come unstuck. A little initial assitance will set you up I'm sure ?
  10. Crankcase venting on LWs is sometimes through the filler cap, where a vent filter is provided, or through venting in the rocker covers If you haven't got either the crankcase pressure will build up for sure. If your engine is one of the many asthmatic Gardners out there the blow by can be considerable. Back in the day we drilled an tapped the covers on our 6LWs in the Fodens and ran hoses out behind the cabs to carry the fumes away from the drivers Anything to avoid spending money on the trucks.
  11. Are you sure that you have the correct dipstick? Only ever seen a similar thing when a gearbox was overfull
  12. During my days as an apprentice there were three commonly used torque settings : half a grunt, a grunt and a grunt and a half.
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. The current cost of carrying out the conversion of a JP to electric start is around £1300 for the flywheel machining , ring gear and starter motor and mounting bracket. Pallet freight and boatyard costs are extra of course. We have done quite a lot of these both 23" and 26" types. The CE will be much the same depending on the size and availability of the correct ring gear. If you are able to remove the flywheel and get it on a pallet yourself its not that an expensive a job overall. If you are dependant on a boatyard it could add a significant extra cost. The £1300 is for new parts not second hand items.
  15. Welding fuel tanks is a fools game if you don't take proper precautions. Don't take a chance on it without considering a foolproof way to do it. If you take yourself back to school and remember the science class where they taught you the triangle of fire. 1/ fuel 2/ air/ 3/ heat (ignition source). With all these present the chances of a spectacular end to your day is very likely indeed. I have fond memories of a colleague attempting to braze a leak off pipe connection back into a Lister fuel tank on a dumper. He used all the dodgy justifications for excessive risk too. The resultant bang and cloud of smoke and flame was spectacular indeed. The scorced face less so. It was a blessing that he had his goggles on. However these days its easy to provide an easy remedy to your problem by breaking the triangle of fire by removing one or more of the elements. Personally I would empty the tank, it's an opportunity to clean it out anyway. Ensure that the filler cap is securely shut and remove the tank vent. Use that connection to connect up the regulator hose from an inert gas bottle. Nitrogen would be my gas of choice but I have used the Co2 hose from a mig welder before. Add gas from the gas bottle at very low pressure and fill the tank with it. No fuel, no air, no bang. Weld away. Dont forget that if you do manage to start a fire and hurt yourself or damage something the insurer will call it misadventure and probably not pay out.
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