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steamraiser2

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About steamraiser2

  • Birthday 26/02/1953

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    http://www.marinepowerservices.co.uk

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    Male
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    dorset
  • Occupation
    nuclear engineer

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  1. Several suggestions as to the probable causes, or causes, of your problem. If I were you I would try the simplest option first and get the injectors pop tested. It only takes a microscopic amount of water to trash an injector. If they prove to be OK everything else will need the heads taken off. Not difficult to do but starting at the easiest/cheapest option makes good sense.
  2. Most likely to be worn valve guides and / or worn rings. The cough sounds like a sticking valve. Heads off I'm afraid
  3. The throttle springs we sell are exactly to the Lister pattern. You don't stretch them to suit. The variable bit is the throttle rod which should be adjusted to take up any slack. If you stretch the spring you have affected its performance.. BWM has the right idea. The boat is wrong not the spring!😀
  4. No. Push the governor rod in to take up any slack. Do not try to push the weights. Make sure the fuel pump has the cold start pawl fitted and that the pump rack is set at the normal running position ie:the start pawl has dropped. The throttle spring will naturally pull the bell crank towards the engine block. At the point when any movement of the spring is going to pull the fuel pump rack adjust the bell crank bolt to give a 3mm (ish) gap. All with the engine stopped of course. When the bolt is adjusted fit the compression spring Run the engine and set the idle by adjusting the tension on the throttle spring. The 3mm gap will enable the governor and fuel pump to float a little which is the object of the exercise.. Easy peasy. Typing this has taken longer than doing the job......!
  5. Just unbolt the whole assembly and dismantle on the bench. It's easy enough. The spring is not strong and it should be possible to set the appropriate adjustment. If you can't I would suspect that the spring is too long. As an after thought you should always have the cold start cam fitted on the end of the fuel pump. All together the two springs and pump cold start cam will enable your engine to idle at a steady speed. It is common for narrowboat owners to try and get their engines to idle too slowly. The idle speed is specification dependent but 400 to 420 is about the mark
  6. There are no springs on the camshaft gear assembly. The small compression spring on the governor push rod is there to damp the bell crank There is an adjuster bolt on the arm which should be set to have a gap of 3mm or so between it and the governor rod. The gap and spring are there to reduce hunting at idle. The critical item is the throttle spring (18) This must be of the correct length and poundage. Near enough does not do. The boats throttle control must include the spring. For example a rod or Morse cable must never be connected directly to the bell crank as it will prevent the proper operation of the governor. With the spring correctly installed the governor will always control the max rpm and greatly reduce the risk of an overspeed induced crankshaft failure to which JPs are prone, especially when worn. The other item to check is the bell crank bearings, which are often neglected. If they are worn out there can be too much float and too much resistance if they seize up. The bell crank should operate without resistance or slop. If it is in poor condition it can also affect the idle and throttle response
  7. The threads are the same, the difference is in the oil way machining on the later shafts. In practice it makes little difference.
  8. steamraiser2

    JP2

    Well it seems like both sides forgot that there is a whole world of private deals done through the various eBay type marketplaces. If you are dealing with something small DHL or UPS sort the customs stuff for you........ Eventually.......I had an injector pump stuck in one of their depots for eight weeks until they took the HMRC charges from me and finally delivered it. However it doesn't work for big stuff. Personal imports can't weigh more than 1000kgs which doesn't work if you want to bring back more than one engine at a time! A Dutch friend suggested that the EU will eventually listen to reason and sort the issues out. I then pointed out that they didn't in forty odd years and that's why we left! Hey ho, at least my engines are safely stored for now!
  9. steamraiser2

    JP2

    Best of luck with importing it. Business to business is straightforward if you are VAT registered and have an EORI number. If not the pallet firms won't touch it. The Dutch are being particularly anal at the moment with a real jobs worth attitude towards anything coming from private sellers heading for the UK. I currently have two engines bought from private sellers stuck in the Netherlands due to this nonsense. For once there is no issue with HMRC on our side of the channel. It's all EU cussedness. They will have to sit there until COVID travel restrictions ease and I can go and get them. Meanwhile engines bought through business to business transactions continue to arrive albeit at double the pre Brexit transport cost.
  10. It is greased lubrication for the rocker shafts on JPs, all were built with it. Later JKs are oil fed. My junk bin has lots of worn out JP rocker shafts in it from engines that were not greased properly. We always convert JPs to oil feed when we restore them. Way better to have the JK set up.
  11. You have a JP3 which should have grease lubrication to the rocker shafts. You don't and need to fit greasers before you damage the shaft. From the video I would suggest that you check that the changeover valves are not venting through the hole in the valve body which is a sign of the valve not seating properly. Also look to see if there is any bubbling between the head, gasket and block. JPs are a little prone to weeping which is sometimes due to the head not being tightened properly or,if you are unlucky, warped heads or block face. Try pulling the head down first. They are pretty robust engines but the heads can be problematic at times
  12. It maybe worth you trying Bosman Diesel Service De Waterlaat 15, 5571 MZ Bergeijk . They have been very helpful with older parts and service over the years. Our "go to" fuel gear people in the Netherlands
  13. We have had a few new ones mostly ex MOD ones. Some, made as air cleaners, had some fine mesh inside. The empty ones were exhausts. As an air cleaner they are pretty useless. If you have room, fitting a 90 degree elbow and and AC Delco type oil bath filter is both functional and technically accurate being a factory option anyway. Not that oil baths in good order are that easy to find these days either.
  14. This is the correct air filter for a Lister JP. It is quite common to fit them with an oil bath type or a paper filter
  15. As a rule of thumb in vehicle terms 250 hours equates roughly to 5000 miles. So 6000 hours is in the 120000 miles area. If the maintenance has been good nothing much to worry about. If it were a Gardner just about run in. Poor maintenance would suggest walking away.
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