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About steamraiser2

  • Birthday 02/26/1953

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  1. steamraiser2

    Ebay vintage engine sales

    Our JP1 was from a small launch. Ideal for the exhibition trailer but way underpowered for anything but the smallest of narrow boats. It certainly attracted attention at shows🙂
  2. steamraiser2

    Ebay vintage engine sales

    We did a JP1 with a Velvet Drive gearbox in a mock up engine room for the shows a few years back. Sounded great for the first hour or two on tickover. After that it became the engine version of Chinese water torture. Plonk plonk plonk plonk plonk plonk plonk....,...😣
  3. steamraiser2

    Ebay vintage engine sales

    £350 ish
  4. steamraiser2

    Ebay vintage engine sales

    Well the JP3M is a very sad looking thing and the asking price,without the gearbox, is easily double the market price for a complete dead engine. I'm busy breaking a JK4 at the moment that is in way better order than that and it didn't cost anything like as much. Best of luck at that price !
  5. steamraiser2

    Pelapone Ricardo

    We do quite a few Dorman LBs. The spares situation is not brilliant but not impossible either. The good thing is that you will seldom need anything other than service parts as they are an incredibly robust engine. One of ours has been in a hotel boat dragging a butty for ten years without missing a beat 10000 hrs and rising. I keep one in our warehouse just for me. If I ever get time to build another boat it'll go in it. A seriously under rated engine. Sound terrific too.The Chinese do make a clone LB, Not CE compliant though and has their own fuel equipment on it which is pretty much unserviceable in the UK
  6. steamraiser2

    JP3 running speed

    Who said anything about pushing the spring? The speeder pulls the rack open under tension when the throttle is opened and is over come by the governor rod pushing in the other direction at max speed. Therefore the assembly works in both directions ,pulled open by the spring, and pushed shut by the governor. Both acting on the bell crank. Properly adjusted the speeder spring is always under some tension.
  7. steamraiser2

    JP3 running speed

    Simple really, the proper variable speed throttle arrangement typically fitted to JPMs has the high and low idle set by stops on the on engine throttle handle. If you only connect to the bell crank and have no stops it is easy to hold the throttle above the intended max rpm.
  8. steamraiser2

    JP3 running speed

    There is no need for a spring fitted to the pump rack. I suggest you remove it.The rack and connected linkage should be very free to move. If it feels notchy check the bearings in the bell crank. They tend to get rusty over the years. They are very cheap to buy. The spring on the end of the governor rod that acts against the bell crank is meant to be there. Check that there is a gap of around 3mm between the end of the rod and the bell crank stop bolt. The little gap and spring enable a little movement before the rod pushes the bell crank and closes the pump. This also helps the level running so is worth checking out. Would I be right in presuming that the speeder spring is connected to a throttle rod? If it is you should really get a longer rod rather than put a key ring into it. Lister designed the variable speed JPs to have a rodded throttle as it pushes as well as pulls. It will not push as intended with a key ring in it. Over the years I have seen a lot of JPs hooked up to Morse controls. The ones with the cables connected to a Lister throttle unit work satisfactorily the ones directly onto the speeder spring or, worse still,onto the bell crank act against the intended operation of the speed control arrangement. Avoid this arrangement if at all possible. Any installation that prevents the throttle self regulating and works against the governor could lead to over speeding and may end up causing crank failure to which JPs are prone.
  9. steamraiser2

    JP3 running speed

    I note that you say "serviced". Sadly that is where things are not as they once were. In my experience "serviced" and "re-conditioned" are poles apart. "Serviced" can often mean a clean and testing on a pop tester , with adjustment as required for the injector and a run on a Hartridge machine for the pump. A check and adjustment of the phasing and general calibration and that is it. £350 please, thank you very much. To overhaul the pump is a straight forward process, elements at an average of £30 a go, typically a pump cam shaft is about £100 (if you can find one) delivery valves are about £15 each. Add to that a set of bearings and seals/gaskets and it is easy to see that a "re-conditioned" pump should set you back about £500. With many of the old school fuel guys retiring, and the younger ones not having a clue unless it plugs into a laptop ,old fashioned fuel injection specialists are an endangered breed. Thankfully we do our own having been dismayed at the poor quality and overpricing that is out there. Don't get me wrong there are still some experts out there but they are thin on the ground. As most of you know we are based in the West Country. There is a good guy in Cornwall, we do our own in Dorset and there is a chap in Berkshire. Other than that we don't know of anyone left that can provide a service that is up to a good standard. So as I keep saying, just be sure to check everything else before blaming the fuel pump and injectors. Don't go there unless you have to.
  10. steamraiser2

    JP3 running speed

    The injector pump on a JP is a primitive beast at best. Problems with it,and the injectors, usually display in a different manner than a hunting engine. A defect in the delivery of fuel such as a leaking element would cause a constant fault not a transitional one. This is why I would check and service the pump linkage and speeder spring first. The other thing,which I forgot to mention earlier, is to check the condition of the little ball bearings in the bell crank itself. They often sieze or break up which affects the operation of the linkage. These are all the cheap options 😀 If careful attention to these areas doesn't cure it the road to serious expenditure awaits. Getting fuel pumps and injectors reconditioned is an expensive business especially as it's a dying skill set these days. I strongly advise ensuring that everything else is correct first before dashing to the pump shop.
  11. steamraiser2

    JP3 running speed

    Before you start spending money on getting your fuel gear serviced (and I don't think it is that for a moment) examine the speeder spring at the end of the bell crank that the injector pump is connected to. The use of the correct spring at the right tension is paramount in getting a JP to run smoothly. If you have the wrong spring, or the throttle linkage has been connected without a spring, the engine will hunt, stall and generally act up. We often see JPs with the wrong spring or no spring. It is important to have the right spring, any old spring won't do. Marine Power Services have them on the shelf and you can get them from the online shop. Fit a new one , lubricate all the pump linkage, making sure that the governor rod that acts on the bell crank moves freely ,and not forgetting to fill the oil reservoir in the pump. Ensure that you have a cold start cam on the other end of your injector pump. (This allows excess fuel for cold starting and prevents over fuelling during normal running). Adjust your throttle linkage to put a little tension on the spring. In operation the throttle pulls against the spring to operate the pump rack but is easily overcome by the governor rod acting against it. While running the governor and throttle spring will settle to an equilibrium and your engine will run steadily unless you try to over speed it. Tick over and fast idle is usually set on the on engine throttle on JP (M) engines. If you have an industrial engine you are unlikely to have it and should make provision for adjustment without compromising the operation of the throttle spring. Properly set up JPs are a robust and smooth running engine. Take a look at the videos on the MPS website to see how smooth they should be 😉
  12. steamraiser2

    Gardner 2lw Exhaust Gas Leak

    Are you sure that the stink is oil? If your injector pump is shot and passing diesel it could also cause a smelly fug. If diesel eventually makes its way into the crankcase it could also cause fumes. As I said TLC. How many hours has the engine done?
  13. steamraiser2

    Gardner 2lw Exhaust Gas Leak

    I suspect that the hole is for a locating dowel or a casing bolt.. Without it in place I would expect a little oil loss but not fumes. Change your crankcase filter, check that the oil level is not too high. If either is overfull or blocked it could potentially result in fumes.It is not usual for a Gardner to be blowing out of the crankcase. Normally I would expect an "oily" Gardner to show at the exhaust not at the crankcase. Check these first. After determining that these are in order, should the fumes persist, I would suggest that your engine is in need of some serious TLC. Even Gardners die in the end. Just one final thought.......................... you don't have four pence a gallon recycled snot oil from Wilco or summat similar in it do you?
  14. steamraiser2

    Peculiar JP oil leak

    JPs often leak around just about all the studs in the head. Bearing in mind that they were drilled and tapped manually it's not unusual. We put sealant on ours as a matter of course.😉 Nothing to worry about
  15. steamraiser2

    Oil pressure issues

    Narrow boats tend to idle for far too long and are often lightly loaded. Running on SAE 30 helps with oil pressure at very low rpm and isn't an issue with electric start engines. It's a common "upgrade" if you could call it that.

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