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jetzi last won the day on June 22 2019

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  1. OK so the answer is that you don't key the non slip, you remove the non slip but try not to go too deep through the underlying layers. @blackrosea was suggesting that it wasn't necessary to get all the nonslip off and @Sprint955 was saying they were having trouble getting the nonslip off anyway (as I have no doubt most would...seems to me like it would equivalent to sanding sandpaper).
  2. Isn't a scabbler a seprate and specific tool? Is there such a thing as a scabbler "attachment" for a sander? I can't find anything by Googling... Just curious, how could you properly clean and key paint that had non-slip grit in it? You can't sand it, so isn't the only way is to take it back to bare steel?
  3. I have a drum of 100 litres of used coolant that I have been carrying around for months. It's pretty dilute as it is 50 litres of my coolant plus 50 litres from my first flush with tap water, but obviously too toxic for a drain, soil or (gasp) a waterway. Can you name those tips (preferably near a canal)? I have called around at many tips and they all say they are only willing to take a couple of litres in containers. Many of them also want me to prove that I live in the area and arrive in a car... as a CCer both things I can't do. I have also called several
  4. For the record, which part is the aquadrive? Is it the concertina black rubber thing? It's much quieter since I tightened the bolt. I don't think the metal skirt is quite touching the bearer but it is close. Is there any harm in hanging on for a few months or should I replace the mount urgently? Yeah, it seems that if I got the revs just right then the engine wouldn't move aound so much, even with the loose mount bolt. I think this was a valid theory, but yeah definitely seems to be the mounts. I've always (since the last 3 years of owning
  5. I've wiped up the oil around the mounts with oil absorbent pads. I used it like dental floss to get under the cap and a bit of sticky black stuff (not oil) got stuck to the pad, I guess this is a bit of melted rubber? The one mount (to the fore of the boat, opposite the one that was loose) seems worse - I can actually see and feel bits of rubber coming out there. Here's a photo: I guess this does mean I need new engine mounts. I will have to look for a boatyard willing to do the job. Honestly I find it near impossible to get anyone
  6. The bund under the engine became flooded a couple of weeks ago and coated the bilge (and the mounts) in oil. I cleaned out the bilge so as not to pump oil overboard but I need to clean more, especially if the oil could be damaging the mounts. The thread from one of the brass bolts holding my stern gland was stripped, and water trickled in that way. My bilge pump is manual. In fact come to think of it perhaps the stripped bolt was also the result of the engine vibration? I'll trial and error the corner i messed with and see if i can improve the vibration further. But I'm certainly i
  7. That loose mount was definitely 90% of the problem. Sounds much better now. I do notice that the engine doesn't seem to hum perfectly consistently - every few seconds it either sounds like the revs briefly speed up for half a second or slow down for half a second. i don't know if this is related or if there is something else going on. Also - it's hard to say - but I think the engine is getting louder the longer it runs for. I think perhaps the bottom nut of that mount is working loose. I am going to let it run for half an hour and then check. If it is working loose again, is there
  8. Here are photos of the mounts. I can already see the problem. The nut on the port-fore engine mount has worked loose, and with a crowbar I am able to rock the engine diagonally quite far until it bumps against the engine bearers. On the other two mounts it only moves a couple of mm. So I suppose I just need to tighten this bolt? Any idea how tight they should be? I have a torque wrench.
  9. Last weekend I put in a new calorifier that has a immersion element. It is dual voltage, 1kW 240V and 600W 12V. I want to connect this up as a dump load since now it is summer by 1.5kW panels charge my 640Ah LiFePOs almost by the time I wake up in the morning. The immersion element came with a digital thermostat for the 12V elemenr where you can set the on and off temperatures, but it only has a 10A relay on the board so it doesn't seem fit for purpose (600W at 12V is 50A). As for the voltage I need to set it up so that it starts the heater just before the s
  10. Forgive the stupid question, but how would I know? I stand on top of the engine when entering and exiting the engine bay (very awkward to get in otherwise). Am I damaging something by doing this?
  11. It's loud in neutral as well as in gear. I'll check this tomorrow, thanks. What temperature is normal for the stern gland? My boat has a steel hinged lid, never had any sealing strips. It's really more of a vibration sound.
  12. Running my engine seems to be getting louder and louder. It's hard to be sure as it's gradual but I was having to shout to make myself heard today and I'm sure that's not normal. I installed a hospital silencer about 2 years ago and I remember the engine being really quiet. I don't think it's the exhaust though, it sounds like there is something vibrating or something loose. Could it be that my engine mounts are wearing out? It seems to be louder when the engine is cold and as it warms up it gets quieter, and if I get the revs just so then it's quieter. Traveling at tickover is unp
  13. Thanks for the reassurance, I am a bit of a novice when it comes to mechanical things so I don't really know how important stuff like this is. Appreciate the replies!
  14. I opened my engine bay and I found that my air filter assembly fell off the engine. I was fiddling with it 2 days ago and I obviously didn't tighten it properly. It has been idling for maybe 1 or 2 hours since then. Could I have done any damage running the engine without an air filter? is there anything I should do about it?
  15. I'm also a bit surprised that the electric motor would need keel cooling. But if it does, I don't know that relying on a calorifier would work, surely once your hot water is up to temperature the calorifier will stop cooling the motor? What is a more pertinent question to me is what is going to cool the diesel generator if it is in the bow? I assume that is air cooled? Surely the diesel generator will produce more heat than the electric motor - it feels like the cooling is the wrong way around - water cooling the diesel generator and supplying a calorifier, while the motor is air c
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