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jetzi last won the day on June 22 2019

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  1. @Sea Dog I'm reading from your answer that the problem could be that the stove is too cool - which is highly possible... Perhaps I need to give it more of a chance. Opening the vents initially generated more smoke, after two or three minutes I closed them again. I don't have a manual, didn't realise there was any complexity to operating a stove - basically all I do is open the bottom vent more for more heat and close it to make the fuel last longer. I'll find the manual online and read it. The FAQs on the Morso site say this about temperature: I don't have a stove thermometer but I do have an infrared gun thermometer, so I could use that to measure the temperature. Next time smoke starts coming in I'll raise the temperature at the base of the flue to between 250-300 degrees and see if that impacts. I'm not 100% sure that opening the bow doors did help, it could just be that more fresh air got in and diluted the smell. Around 3 months ago I did change the layout at the front which I thought may have reduced the airflow from the vent in the bow bulkhead. I opened that up after this conversation and I definitely feel a bit of a draught through it, so I thought that might have solved the problem - disappointed when I started smelling smoke again today. Giving up is always an option, yes! But then I'd have to live in a flat - I think I'd rather suffocate! I'll take some photos the next time it happens during the day. My boat is a bit unusual - it has a roof that overlaps over the walls, with a couple of mm gap the whole length of the boat. This provides ventilation in place of mushroom vents. I have considered silicone sealing along that edge near the chimney. I've heard that Red is being taken off the market, don't know if that's accurate, but I can see if I can find it. Are there any other recommendations? Perhaps another option is to switch to wood logs? I have 3 alarms of 2 different brands, but they all only show "alarm" or "no alarm", none of them have a reading. I will buy one that has a ppm reading.
  2. I'm finding the stove is burning very well, it's just that the smoke sinks immediately upon leaving the chimney and sits around the boat at roof height. So all I can think of doing is raising the chimney, so at least by the time the smoke sinks it will be diluted by more air... I think there was definitely a problem with having too little low level ventilation, causing the smoke to be sucked in the roof vents. But even if I leave the bow door totally open smoke still gets in so that can't be the whole problem. It's really making me feel unwell so I have to kill the fire and put on a few more layers...
  3. Ugh, weather conditions are such that the smoke is sinking. I'm smelling smoke again and I'm feeling it in my throat. There's no wind so turning the boat won't help. I'm at my wits end here. Having to make a difficult choice between suffocation or freezing. Cleaning didn't help. I created more low level ventilation which hasn't helped. Opening the top vent on the Morso doesn't seem to make any difference. Haven't been able to get a longer chimney yet thanks to lockdown, but that's my last hope... I'm using Excel smokeless fuel but I wonder if I should try a different brand?
  4. Would you expect to be able to remain seated while going under bridges?? I stand and steer with my rear. I have to duck at the best of times. I wouldn't want the seat to be any lower than my standing height, so given that I'd sit on my rear, that seems about right to me. Maybe I'd have to raise the seat an inch or two but a bit more height would if anything be handy.
  5. Will do so in the next few days. I can tell you at least the highest number I see
  6. Right, so if it isn't CE approved and that's a requirement, you can just remove the tank when the inspector comes. I suppose not having a fuel tank at all can't be a BSS fail! BSS requirements are here: https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/268789/ecp-private-boats-ed3_rev2_apr2015_public_final.pdf You're likely to get a better and more conclusive answer from this document than anyone on the forum. I would note though that I have heard a number of folks say that BSS examiners are known to apply some of their own "interpretation" to these guidelines. I've only had one BSS exam, and I was asked to do a couple of things that weren't in the guidelines - I did them, because rather safe than sorry and it's easier than arguing with the examiner. I had a quick skim through the diesel fuel tank requirements, and I can't see anything disallowing plastic tanks. The fuel line"must be of a suitable material" though and I think that means metal. I'm always very impressed with how safe diesel fuel is in general though. I'd put 5 litres of diesel quite low on the list of things likely to kill you or your neighbours on a boat. Not advocating cheating a BSS of course. Is there an old tank that no longer in use? I have a 230 litre diesel tank on my narrowboat and I can't really picture how a 5 litre tank would work at all...
  7. Just wanted to say that I went for one of these Hotpoint WMTF722-H machines on the basis of the Cruising the Cut video. I power it with a 3kVA Victron inverter, which can run the heater but I choose not to unless on shore power or in the height of solar power months. I got a thermostatic mixing valve that is for underfloor heating - it allows me to select water temperature from 35 to 65 degrees celsius which is a bit more than you'll get with most mixing valves. Washing machine is two feet away from the calorifier so I can ensure that not a lot of heat is lost as the washer draws water intermittently. I've measured the machine as using about 60 litres of water for a 2.5h cotton cycle, the inverter draws about 150A surge and 50A continuous IIRC, which I think a 1.5kVA inverter should be able to handle. I should do another load within a week so I can re-measure the current draw, total Ah consumption and everything if you'd find that helpful. It's a nice machine too, very compact but still a decent 7kg capacity, doesn't vibrate too much, and I prefer filling the load from the top than the front. I'm very happy with it.
  8. Don't have anything helpful to add about BSS, but I am so incredibly curious as to your situation... You want to install a 5 litre plastic jerry can as the main fuel tank of your boat, because you only ever go 4 miles at a time? How come the boat doesn't have a fuel tank? Is it an outboard motor? If you are a CCer how do you maintain a close distance to your shed that you can return to it to refuel after every trip? Sorry for the questions but I'm scratching my head here trying to work it out!
  9. Thanks for the tip. This is what I found, I can't imagine how a narrowboat could navigate waves up to 2 metres. 2 metre waves would go over my roof! I would imagine in that kind of weather there is a very real risk of capsizing in such a narrow craft. (I don't know anything about sea conditions). Is it possible for OP to encounter 2 metre waves in the Severn?? Out of interest, I'd love one day to get a boat (and the training) that could allow me to navigate in offshore waters. Is it possible to for an inland waterways boat (I assume not a narrowboat, and probably not a narrowbeam of any kind) to meet Cat B and still have a shallow enough draft and small enough dimensions to cruise the UK canals?
  10. This is genius! Where has this advice been all my life!?
  11. I should think it possible to design a seat that is within the tiller arc, but with the seat above it on an arm. The tiller could then swing harmlessly underneath the seat. As long as the steerer's legs don't dangle too far backwards (a foot rest could be a good addition here). Most people's arms are little longer than their torsos so unless you have to push hard to one side or the other, I can picture that working? I tried to fill in the survey but I note it's already closed. I'm curious to see what OP comes up with and wish them well for their A levels!
  12. Is it a narrowboat that has been designed for rougher conditions than normal? I would have thought that the pilots must think it is OK, I mean they are pilots after all?! Or do they think narrowboaters are mad to do it without a pilot?
  13. Do you think it's unwise in a narrowboat even if you have a pilot (and are following all the other advice and have all the recommended accoutrement)? I'd really like to make a sea or estuary passage one day, mainly to make a "ring" where no inland waterways ring exists. Perhaps the Severn as per the OP or perhaps between the rivers of the Wash. Is there a sea or estuary passage that is perhaps more accessible for a narrowboat than others? I like some adventure but I don't want to take any really crazy risks
  14. As today was a bit warmer I let the stove out and gave the flue a good sweep. Here are "before" photos of the flue (from top) and baffle plate. It didn't seem at all blocked to me, maybe 1mm of soot deposited all around. Would a blocked flue cause the descending smoke, anyway? It hasn't happened again since I posted so I think it's just the weather conditions as you describe. I'm probably just expecting too much from stone age technology! I think this is the best advice. If enough of the gas going up the chimney is being replaced by air coming into vents far from the exhaust, then there shouldn't be any suction drawing smoke in. I think I might try to create more low-level vents. In combination with a longer chimney (which I haven't been able to find due to lockdown) hopefully this will sort it. Thanks to everyone for the advice!
  15. jetzi

    Cheap LiFePO4 BMS?

    I got this heating film, thanks. How did you attach the wires? I'm thinking cutting a hole for a bolt through the copper strip either side with washers making contact with the copper. I also got a cheap thermostat and will wire it to a circuit breaker in the 12V board plus a fuse on both terminals. And did you place the film directly under your batteries? or between the cells?
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