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jetzi last won the day on June 22 2019

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  1. I want to put lockshield valves on my calorifier as well, so I can balance the flow and avoid short-cycling if necessary. The calorifier has 22mm compression fittings. However the lockshield valves that I find are all designed to screw directly into radiators. Does a 22mm elbow with a suitable valve exist? Or should I rather use a normal 22mm elbow and an inline gate valve to control the flow? (something like https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-gate-valve/p16924)
  2. Makes sense. Could I ask specifically what brand and what quantity you used? Since the engine cooling system is huge, I'm going to need comparatively more of the flush product, right? Sticking with the Prestone brand, it comes in a 1 litre bottle for around 12 gbp, which is intended to do a car system which is typically less than 10 litres. It's not going to be affordable to buy 8 of these (100 quids worth) to do one flush! I presume the output of this flush also needs to be disposed of as hazardous waste by taking it to the tip for recycling?
  3. Interesting, so is the "antifreeze and summer coolant" term they always use just marketing? Would water perform better than antifreeze (apart from the freezing and corrosion). Apologies, I meant de-ionised water. Intention is to reduce the corrosion. It's minimal compared to the cost of the antifreeze so I'd rather use the recommended stuff. Thanks, it's helpful to have an idea - I think that my 100litre in total is an overestimation, but it's in the ballpark. Is it a good idea to try to flush out the system with clean tap water before I refi
  4. My plan was to include an air valve in a tee at the top of the coil (like you get in radiators) so that I could run the engine with it slightly open, pumping coolant into the calorifier circuit until I see coolant spewing forth, then close that valve. Turn off engine. Top up coolant. Repeat as needed. I have a vertical calorifier and a cruiser stern so there isn't a good place for a header tank inside the engine bay. However it's a fairly modern engine (Beta 38) and the current calorifier isn't much lower than the replacement, and that doesn't have any bleed valve or anything, so it seems it w
  5. Thanks, I'll mount the calorifier as low as possible and use the lower coil for the engine, hopefully this will avoid needing a separate header tank. Sense check before I go out and buy 100 litres of coolant on Monday - does that amount ring true? Seems like an awful lot for one boat, but as I need to minimise downtime I can't drain the coolant to see how much I need! I think the advice to find an agricultural supplier is good. Also, need to find a tip near the canal that will take my old coolant. Any suggestions for either supplier or waste cent
  6. Slightly related question - didn't want to start a whole new thread. The coil in my new calorifier that will be run by my engine is higher than coolant cap on top of the engine. How am I going to fill the coolant once this is installed? And won't the coolant in the coil, being higher than the overfow pipe, simply drain out until it's level with the top of the engine?
  7. The previous design in my boat (which never worked well) had a out and back run, with only a calorifier (no valves), a towel rail (with valves) and one rad (with valves). Directly after the rad the flow and return were connected in a loop. The towel rail never got hot when I tried the eber, the rad got warm but not hot enough. Hence I relied on my solid fuel stove and didn't use the Eber. The rad eventually sprung a leak and so I ripped it and the towel rail out. I assumed there was a problem with the Eber so I had it professionally serviced. I now want to reinstall it - I am thinking that I'l
  8. Since the balance I let the battery run down over 4 days without charging it to try to measure capacity. The BMV showed 470Ah consumed (out of a 640Ah battery) before one of the cells dipped below 3.0V. I probably could have gone lower than that but I'm going to consider that the battery capacity.
  9. Or, don't insulate it and it can contribute to your heating I thought the main reason for not using solid copper on boats was work hardening through vibration. I think as long as the pipe is in the wall and there is space for it to snake, I'll just let it be. There is already quite a lot of plastic pipe in place from the old system. I notice that there is quite a bit of fine rust powder on the inside of this pipe though. So I'm wondering whether I should replace it or if I should just try to flush it out thoroughly.
  10. Thanks, I'll do that. It looks like the valves come with both a "tap" attachment and a "lockshield" attachment so I can use the same one on each side. So that's 6x https://www.toolstation.com/angled-radiator-valve-cp/p15063 and 2x https://www.toolstation.com/inline-radiator-valve-cp/p73348 Totalling 25.84 gbp. Seems fair. For the coolant: 2x skin tanks, external dimensions 1250x480x60 = 36 litres max each (if completely hollow and no skin thickness) = 72 litres 3x double panel rads 1000x600, assuming 10mm thickness uniformly (ge
  11. I have been using Prestone antifreeze/coolant (20 litre ready mixed for 55 gbp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prestone-20-litre-Ready-to-Use-Coolant-Guaranteed-for-All-Cars/393232181982) I'm sure it's not the cheapest but it has the advantage of being mixable with any other types of antifreeze. And being that I haven't changed the coolant since I bought the boat, I don't know what kind is in there at the moment. I have been using concentrate mixed with tap water but I would like to replace it with a proper mix of antifreeze and distilled water (or ready mixed like the link).
  12. Great, thank you! I presume each radiator just needs one, and can use a plain elbow on the other side? Lastly regarding the glycol, should I be using the same mixture as I do for my engine/skintanks?
  13. Oh dear, what can be done about this? Use copper? This was extremely helpful to read, thank you! My calorifier coil does not have balance valves, and in fact I think this might have been causing the original problem I had with the Eber - with my radiators only getting somewhat warm, I think what I need to do therefore is to fit manual valves to all 4 radiators AND the calorifier circuit which I can use for balancing, and once balanced, ensure that I never switch off the towel rail. The other radiators I can, if I choose to, use the balance
  14. The only controls on my eber is a single pull switch, on/off. If it has a thermostat, I guess it is pre-set to a particular temperature.
  15. Thanks for the help, especially w.r.t. the calorifier not counting as a heat dump. I didn't realise that that was the purpose of the always on radiator. I assumed the purpose of the always on path was to give the pump somewhere to pump the water. It seems rather pointless to have some radiators on while others are off. If it was getting too hot, then wouldn't it be best to turn the Eber off or like @mrsmelly says, open a window? Edit - I'm an idiot, obviously the reason is so that you can still have hot water in Summer while not having radiators on.
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