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  1. Yes, I've read that but it says 0.324 ... 0.360 Ohms at 25 deg C, i.e. when it is cold. The resistance of the glow plug / flame detect electrode increases with temperature, being around 1.6 ohm when glowing is turned on because the electrical heating makes it almost white hot. When it is in flame detect mode the temperature will be lower than white hot but obviously much higher than 25 deg C, hence the resistance will be between 0.360 ohm (when cold) and 1.50 ohm (when white hot). My question is, what is the normal resistance to be expected when its running hot at full load and detecting a flame - and consequently, at what lower resistance (due to lower temperature) does it decide that there is no flame? I've heard 0.6 ohm mentioned as the flame detect threshold but cannot confirm this. Hoping someone here can give me the correct figure
  2. Ok, that's what I thought, otherwise we'd be seeing little ceramic insulators all along the canal. Thanks
  3. Yes it had crossed my mine to use ones like the ASAP ones and simply grind the lower nut down a bit. Shims would also do the job but a lot more fiddly, especially as the height restriction is at the back where vertical positioning is critical to align with the prop shaft . But they might be the way to go. Thanks for the idea.
  4. Ha ! that's sound good. I've noticed that as soon as you mention 'marine' the price of everything seems to double.
  5. Thank you, I did look at ASAP but the lowest they seem to have, like the one in your link, is 47.2 mm to the top of the mount, 17 mm taller than mine. Add 14 mm for the nut and a little bit of tolerance and its very close to the minimum space I need to have between rail and mounting bracket. I'd prefer a bit more flexibility (excuse the pun)
  6. I understand the reason for a GI when connected to shore power in a marina to prevent the small galvanic currents flowing from boat to boat. But when moored at the side of the canal you have boat A connected via wet ropes to the metal mooring rail to which is also connected boat B by its wet ropes. Isn't that the same situation as having a earth wire connecting the two boats, albeit with a bit more resistance ? Should any special precautions be taken in that situation or is the resistance of the wet rope more than enough to stop damage?
  7. I'm looking to replace the engine mounts on a yanmar engine. Trouble is the existing ones are very low profile and most suppliers I can find only sell ones that are too tall. The mount in my photo is 30mm from the bottom, where it touches the rail, to the top of the disc on the black cast body, The bottom of the mounting plate from the engine is 60mm above the mounting rail, ie roughly 30mm above the top of the mount which, given a 14mm thick nut underneath the bracket only leaves about 16mm of thread between the nut and the mount. The rail mounting bolt holes are about 103mm apart, although I could drill new ones if necessary. Anyone know where I can get some really low profile mounts?
  8. wetfoot


    Brilliant program, Used free version for several years now, wouldn't be without it. Logs you in automatically (if you want it to) and you can also store notes to yourself that are encrypted using the same technology. Also have the android version that picks up all my passwords and notes from the net so I can log in to places from my phone as well as my PC. Encryption is strong.
  9. My TTC, bought new in November, cuts out after a while claiming a flame failure (which I don't believe). Using the diagnostic software I can see that during a 20 minute combustion at full load, the resistance of the flame detect / glow plug fluctuates between about 0.513 and 0.519 ohm with no issues at all but then suddenly the flame detect flag drops from 1 to 0 (with the resistance still around 0.519 ohm) and the thing shuts down as it thinks there is no flame. U tube videos showing TTC heaters being tested seem to show flame detect resistances nearer 0.865 ohm at full load, not just over 0.5 ohm like mine. see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWL9ipWpVwA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gRwv_2nDNs Is it likely that this almost new unit is faulty, with the flame detect resistance being too close to the cut off point? Anyone know what the 'correct' resistance should be during full load combustion when in flame detect mode? I've heard of instances with other webasto hearers when the tolerance of the 1.0 ohm flame detect shunt resistor is a but too wide, being closer to 0.95 ohm, which in turn causes an error in the detect reading. Is this likely with a TTC?
  10. Thank you, I did PM him myself when you first posted the suggestion but I haven't heard anything back yet. (Maybe my PM didn't work correctly so thanks for doing it as well)
  11. Yes I think I get that I need a DP30.2 but this is where the problems start. For example pbautoelectrics.co.uk say DP30.2 is part number 1320292A and is for petrol, not diesel but www.prokes-auto.com say part number 1320292A is for both petrol and diesel and www.ebusexpert.com say part number 1320292A is actually DP30.02 and not DP30.2 but http://tk.istore.pl say part number 1320292A is only good for the Airtop range (I have a Thermotop) but then we have a different part number http://www.ersatzteilbox.com say DP30.2 is part number 89620B or 89372A or 9012868C and is for diesel and finally to complete the circle we have www.fusespoutlet.eu which says part number 89620B is the same as 1320292A and 9012868C which brings us back to pbautoelectrics.co.uk saying it's for petrol! Given the ridiculous price we are expected to pay for these pumps I cannot afford to get the wrong one and nowhere can I find the actual specs of these pumps so I can see what the differences are.
  12. Thanks for that. Just to help out anyone else I've attached three photos of my existing pump (2nd, 3rd and 4th pic). I've also attached three catalogue entries from ButlerTechnik (pics 5,6,7) showing my pump (as discontinued) and two others, one of which says it can replace the other even though it's nearly half the price? Plus also attached are screen shots from the webasto workshop manual with drawings of the petrol vs diesel pumps (last pic) and from the Techwebasto catalogue showing two pumps for diesel or Petrol (first pic) with the same shapes as those shown in the workshop manual drawings but with part numbers that don't correspond to anything. Hence my confusion!
  13. I should add that the new Wesbasto I fitted is the one that has the marine ECU so low battery voltage shouldn't be a problem - although running from two new, fully charged lithium batteries with solar panel + generator charging, a low battery voltage is not expected to happen.
  14. Son's boat has Webasto thermotop C diesel water heater, bought brand new in November (replacing a very unreliable second hand one bought in the summer). It's fitted to a new genuine webasto fuel line, new webasto filter and new dosing pump that were installed in the summer together with the second hand heater. Diesel fuel line rises gently all the way to the heater and connections were made according to the manual. Heater runs off new lithium batteries with a PD of a steady 13v at the heater connection. After running fine for about 6 weeks the heater now occasionally won't start and emits lots of white unburnt fuel from the exhaust. Clearing the flood by removing the fuel line and starting a few times got it going again today. During startup with the fuel line disconnected I got about 14ml of fuel out of the pipe (I've heard the figure of 9.5ml mentioned for start up fuel quantity) I'm suspicious that the new pump supplied with the second hand heater is the wrong one, either meant for petrol and not diesel or maybe the wrong spec, but it is very difficult to find definitive explanations of the different pumps and what their fuel rate / pump pressure isso I'm hoping someone here can help. The pump we have is webasto model number 19486B (DP2 ?) with the cone shape on the inlet. Butler Technik say its discontinued but don't mention the fuel. Can anyone tell me the spec of this pump? ie is it for petrol or diesel and what its flow rate is? They also sell part number 86115A (DP30 ? )with a cylinder shaped inlet but this doesn't say which fuel I've also found webasto model 89372 (DP30/2 ?) which www.techwebasto.com says is for diesel but others say is for petrol. Finally the webasto installation guide seems to suggest that pump DP2 (with a cone shaped inlet) is for what they call 'Fuel', presumably petrol and the DP30/2 (with the cylindrical inlet) is for diesel, so I'm really confused. Can anyone help me ascertain whether I have the right pump / what the right pump is and perhaps throw some light on any other reasons why the new heater isn't starting reliably so soon? (Heater does have a 3yr warranty but I suspect there will be lots of caveats relating to self install and pipework not bought at the same time etc.)
  15. I'm not surprised that you fail to understand why peeps want a unit running at 10.5v nobody would! I don't want it to run at 10.5v - I'll be running it on standard 12v Lithium leisure batteries which I hope never drop too much below 12V. The issue with the vehicle version appears to be that the ECU assumes you are using the same 12v lead acid battery as that used for starting the engine. So the heater ECU will turn off the heater if the PD drops below 11.8v in order to save the battery and allow you to still start the engine. (a PD of 11.8v can happen quite normally in a vehicle, especially during starting on on heavy drain) The marine ECU assumes you are running on leisure batteries that are not also used to start an engine and so it is more forgiving and doesn't shut down the heater until the PD drops to an alarmingly low 10.5v, something I hope my lithiums never do, although they could drop below 11.8v during normal operation. So maybe instead of saying I need one that can go down to 10.5v maybe I should have said I don't want one that shuts down at 11.8v
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