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wetfoot

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  1. Yes, everything else my son has installed on the boat to do with solar power, batteries, inverters, controllers etc. is Victton. Very good quality and a lovely matching blue (:-) colour. Maybe that's why he passed this old one over to me! I'll stick it on fleabay for 60 or 70 quid.
  2. OK, Thanks to all who replied. It seems to be a cheap inverter made in China with Chinese parts as opposed to an expensive one made in the UK with Chinese parts. But it's quite old and still works so, as it's no longer really needed I'll probably fleabay it. (Was thinking of using in the car on camping trips so my wife can use a hair dryer when we are away from civilisation but drawing over 150A from the battery just to power a hair dryer is not practical)
  3. That's partly my thinking. I wasn't aware of a thriving silicon valley in the UK making electronic components. A Chinese capacitor soldered onto a circuit board in China is much the same as a Chinese capacitor soldered onto a circuit board in Liverpool.
  4. My son inherited this inverter when he bought his wide beam. It seems to work but there is no maker's name on it. Looking on the web these 2000W inverters can cost anything from £100 to nearly £800 so it would be good to know at which end of the spectrum this one fits. If anyone can recognise it and can give me a maker's name or a link to where one can be found I'd be very grateful. (The small LCD appears to show the power being drawn in Watts and if I try to draw too much current the thing beeps at me)
  5. Yes, I've read that but it says 0.324 ... 0.360 Ohms at 25 deg C, i.e. when it is cold. The resistance of the glow plug / flame detect electrode increases with temperature, being around 1.6 ohm when glowing is turned on because the electrical heating makes it almost white hot. When it is in flame detect mode the temperature will be lower than white hot but obviously much higher than 25 deg C, hence the resistance will be between 0.360 ohm (when cold) and 1.50 ohm (when white hot). My question is, what is the normal resistance to be expected when its running hot at full load and detecting a flame - and consequently, at what lower resistance (due to lower temperature) does it decide that there is no flame? I've heard 0.6 ohm mentioned as the flame detect threshold but cannot confirm this. Hoping someone here can give me the correct figure
  6. Ok, that's what I thought, otherwise we'd be seeing little ceramic insulators all along the canal. Thanks
  7. Yes it had crossed my mine to use ones like the ASAP ones and simply grind the lower nut down a bit. Shims would also do the job but a lot more fiddly, especially as the height restriction is at the back where vertical positioning is critical to align with the prop shaft . But they might be the way to go. Thanks for the idea.
  8. Ha ! that's sound good. I've noticed that as soon as you mention 'marine' the price of everything seems to double.
  9. Thank you, I did look at ASAP but the lowest they seem to have, like the one in your link, is 47.2 mm to the top of the mount, 17 mm taller than mine. Add 14 mm for the nut and a little bit of tolerance and its very close to the minimum space I need to have between rail and mounting bracket. I'd prefer a bit more flexibility (excuse the pun)
  10. I understand the reason for a GI when connected to shore power in a marina to prevent the small galvanic currents flowing from boat to boat. But when moored at the side of the canal you have boat A connected via wet ropes to the metal mooring rail to which is also connected boat B by its wet ropes. Isn't that the same situation as having a earth wire connecting the two boats, albeit with a bit more resistance ? Should any special precautions be taken in that situation or is the resistance of the wet rope more than enough to stop damage?
  11. I'm looking to replace the engine mounts on a yanmar engine. Trouble is the existing ones are very low profile and most suppliers I can find only sell ones that are too tall. The mount in my photo is 30mm from the bottom, where it touches the rail, to the top of the disc on the black cast body, The bottom of the mounting plate from the engine is 60mm above the mounting rail, ie roughly 30mm above the top of the mount which, given a 14mm thick nut underneath the bracket only leaves about 16mm of thread between the nut and the mount. The rail mounting bolt holes are about 103mm apart, although I could drill new ones if necessary. Anyone know where I can get some really low profile mounts?
  12. wetfoot

    lastpass

    Brilliant program, Used free version for several years now, wouldn't be without it. Logs you in automatically (if you want it to) and you can also store notes to yourself that are encrypted using the same technology. Also have the android version that picks up all my passwords and notes from the net so I can log in to places from my phone as well as my PC. Encryption is strong.
  13. My TTC, bought new in November, cuts out after a while claiming a flame failure (which I don't believe). Using the diagnostic software I can see that during a 20 minute combustion at full load, the resistance of the flame detect / glow plug fluctuates between about 0.513 and 0.519 ohm with no issues at all but then suddenly the flame detect flag drops from 1 to 0 (with the resistance still around 0.519 ohm) and the thing shuts down as it thinks there is no flame. U tube videos showing TTC heaters being tested seem to show flame detect resistances nearer 0.865 ohm at full load, not just over 0.5 ohm like mine. see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWL9ipWpVwA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gRwv_2nDNs Is it likely that this almost new unit is faulty, with the flame detect resistance being too close to the cut off point? Anyone know what the 'correct' resistance should be during full load combustion when in flame detect mode? I've heard of instances with other webasto hearers when the tolerance of the 1.0 ohm flame detect shunt resistor is a but too wide, being closer to 0.95 ohm, which in turn causes an error in the detect reading. Is this likely with a TTC?
  14. Thank you, I did PM him myself when you first posted the suggestion but I haven't heard anything back yet. (Maybe my PM didn't work correctly so thanks for doing it as well)
  15. Yes I think I get that I need a DP30.2 but this is where the problems start. For example pbautoelectrics.co.uk say DP30.2 is part number 1320292A and is for petrol, not diesel but www.prokes-auto.com say part number 1320292A is for both petrol and diesel and www.ebusexpert.com say part number 1320292A is actually DP30.02 and not DP30.2 but http://tk.istore.pl say part number 1320292A is only good for the Airtop range (I have a Thermotop) but then we have a different part number http://www.ersatzteilbox.com say DP30.2 is part number 89620B or 89372A or 9012868C and is for diesel and finally to complete the circle we have www.fusespoutlet.eu which says part number 89620B is the same as 1320292A and 9012868C which brings us back to pbautoelectrics.co.uk saying it's for petrol! Given the ridiculous price we are expected to pay for these pumps I cannot afford to get the wrong one and nowhere can I find the actual specs of these pumps so I can see what the differences are.
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