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Dr Bob

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Dr Bob last won the day on May 3

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  • Occupation
    Passed it
  • Boat Name
    Stuc A' Chroin

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  1. Oi, stop posting pics of my boat!
  2. I think I agree with Tony. When we bought the boat, the warranty was to me a bonus. Something to think about if something major went wrong, i.e. The engine or the paintwork but I had to be able to cover anything else. Our contract is with new and used who could go out of business but not very likely (probably one of the safest companies at the moment the way 2nd hand boat sales are going). Hopefully N&U will be around in 3-5 years time if major problems appear but buying a new boat is a risk with far far less protection than buying a new car. Minor problems I will fix myself.
  3. I am sure the bumph says 12 months (I must check?)...but the warranty varies i.e. The engine/gearbox is 5 years, they seem to be covering the paintwork for 3 years or more, the washer dryer is 5 years(?) etc. For me it's about the sale of goods act ( or its successor) i.e. Is it fit for purpose. Aqualine / new and used are quite good. If I rewire then yes I must suffer the consequences but I need to work out what can go wrong. Not a lot in this case. Of all the circuits I could bypass where things go wrong is the water pump....as that could break any time...but I have a spare....but likely I would not do the water pump circuit as it is useful to have the switch where it is for when the tank runs empty. I have already wired in a set of Li batteries in parallel with the supplied batteries and formally written to new and used with the modifications, operating procedures and risk assessment and have accepted that I will cover any faults on the domestic alternator.
  4. IF we do the modifications then these will be done before our 2021 cruise starting in April/ May, at which time I only have a month or so left on the warranty. So no, I am not bothered. The problem with new boats is that they are never perfect and some things have to be changed. This thread has persuaded me that I will only save around half the power initially identified in the Farcebook post so I need to weigh that up against the negatives, and given I am using Lithium's, I am far less worried about power. I will ponder the issue over the next few months.
  5. Access is not easy. If it was, I would have measured it! Significant faffing required - hence asking the questions before starting to dismantle. Yes, I understand that...but there is a circuit breaker in the circuit as well as the relay and very few of the circuits ever get switched ...so if the current draw is significant then worthwhile shorting out the relay and relying on the MCB.
  6. I thought Skeg was saying Arsenal are going to loose to city tomorrow and then lost the connection.
  7. Well that is the whole point of this thread! Why waste power heating up the relays when the circuit breaker can act as the switch. My question in the OP was about how much power is each relay taking as I cant see any difference when I turn off the black rocker switches. By connecting together the bottom two wires on each relay, it takes that relay out of circuit so easy to do without - but able to put back in circuit if we sell the bote. Concerned now though that the MCBs are not designed for 12V. However, its not that we use these switches (the black rocker ones). The only one we have used (with current flowing) is the water pump switch - to turn off the pump when the water runs out in the tank! The ones that need to be on are usually on all the time.
  8. Yes. It's easy to turn the led off by disconnecting the negative lead behind the panel on each switch but happy to loose 2Ahr.
  9. Yes, all on 12 v. Some pics. The first pic is the bank of circuit breakers. The second pic is the black rocker switches on the outside of the electric cupboard door And the 3rd pic is the relays. Therefore the +ve 12V cable from the horn circuit will go into one of the bottom 2 contacts on the relay K3 and then out of the other bottom contact , up to the circuit breaker Q5 then out to the 12v +ve bus bar. The black rocker switch on the top left row I assume is then wired into the K3 relay to activate it and make the horn circuit live. The horn then sounds when the horn button is pressed. If the relay is taking 0.25A all the time then it would be better just to take the relay out of circuit and use the circuit breaker Q5 switch as the isolation switch for that circuit?
  10. Ok, this is not as straightforward as I thought Aren't the relays rated at 25A at 240V? I will post some pics in a couple of hours.
  11. Ok, need assistance from the experts - @Tony Brooks @nicknorman @MoominPapa @WotEver etc My nice shiny new bote comes complete with a fancy electric cupboard but a post on one of the Aqualine farcebook sites has got me thinking about saving 35Ahrs of power a day. Most of the 12V circuits are wired first to a relay (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/latching-relays/9143995/) and then to a circuit breaker before connecting to the +ve bus bar. The nice switch panel on the outside of the electric cupboard has around 15 rocker switches which I understand activate their dedicated non latching relay when each switch is turned on. The idea suggested is to by-pass the relay and just use the circuit breaker switch to turn the circuit on or off. I have posted a link to the relay which quotes a coil power of 3W so that suggests a power draw of say 0.25A. Bypassing say 6 of the relays and using the switches in the cupboard instead therefore would save me 35Ahrs per 24 hours. I am confused though because as I turn each rocker switch off in turn, I do not see a reduction in Amps on the battery monitor (with that circuit not drawing power – ie light switches turned off). If the relay is taking 0.25A, wouldnt I see that on the battery monitor or is the coil in the relay live all the time? I was confused as the relays are DPST – so not sure why they are Double pole – but there are 6 wires to each relay. On the relay diagram, the bottom two connections look to the be the power wires to and from the circuit and the other 4 must be to the rocker switch – but why 4? The bank of 14 relays is hot to the touch so they are taking some power. I can see where over 1A is going or 2A ....or 3A!! The other problem is that access to the relays is not easy and it will take me some time to dismantle stuff to get to the wires so don't want to start until I fully understand what I have got.
  12. That's the way they do it in Scotland but at least you know where you are.
  13. We put ours on the market for £55K just before the March lockdown and accepted £53K two days later from the first viewer. By the end of the first lockdown, I think we could have out it on for £5K more with the same degree of success. The pricing was that suggested by the broker. The broker was also selling a more expensive boat at £115k. It had been on the market for 9months. It finally sold a few weeks back for £95k. This boat was well overpriced. If a nice boat has been on the market - which the one in your budget range should be- for a number of months then it will be overpriced. The problem comes when a boat comes on the market, can the uninitiated spot if it is priced properly? If it is, it will sell in days (hours).
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