Markinaboat

yep, no cork ball either, just the key!

Got it thanks Dave! Connections at the rear appear to be ok. A slight twiddle of the switch can stop the engine which is waht made me think it's the switch internals. Will have a Google!

Thanks Tony, but when I was researching the other day, I did see something that stated the solenoid runs at a voltage below 12v. (I think believed that that the info I pasted above included this but clearly not). Can't find it now but it may have only applied to the ETSO (energise to shut off) valves? I will test the switch and if necessary see what the cost of a replacement is from Beta. Thanks again.

Added - even with water in your fuel, if the engine stops when you jiggle the key, that problem is not related to fuel quality. I can of know that one! 😉

Thanks everyone for your valuable input. So, whilst this intermittent 'knock the key and it may stop' exists, I have/had a fair amount of water in the fuel and it had started to emulsify. RCR sent Keith Duffy who was amazing so up and running now. Fitting a missing O-ring seal to the filler later and getting the Fuelgard I got for my previous boat (but thankfully never fitted!) fitted tomorrow. Will also be getting a local guy to remove any water still in the tank. With regards to the 11 volts, connecting a direct 12v supply would activate the solenoid in an emergency to keep the valve open. However, have attached a screenshot of info I fund online. Could it be that 12v or more could damage the unit?

Hi, Picking up on this thread as broken down on the Oxford at Kings Sutton lock. JD3, 1000 hrs on, been running fine since Harefield three weeks ago. Just stopped. Interestingly, every so often if I brush against the key, the engine cuts out. The wires at the rear all appear to be ok but wondered if this wiring on the starter key (in panel) is what the above refers to? I checked the fuel to the pump union inlet and fuel flowed, albeit not very much but maybe that's how they are. RCR are calling me in the morning to let me know when they can attend so would be good to know what parts they may need to bring. I couldn't find anything that resembled the fuel solenoid but there is a black wire going to nut on the top of the pump (Stanadyne DB2). I checked this with my meter and it showed 11.01v? I changed the fuel filter less than 100 hrs ago and keep a full tank with diesel fuel complete in. Haven't removed the filter as if it is blocked, not much I can do anyway as no spare. If the issue is the electrical fuel shut-off (solenoid), is it possible to over-ride this somehow? Sorry if this is disjointed but it's been a long day and still recovering from 5 days in a dry dock last week having the hydraulic thruster repaired and £800 lighter. Thanks in advance for any replies.

As in, larger than the usual stern tank! 😉

Previous two boats had 600 litre tanks or thereabouts under the deck in the engine room, the last one also having a dedicated stern tank. Current boat however has a conventional tank at the stern but larger at 300 litres.

But not with a hydraulic drive! I've got full headroom all the way back and more cupboard space from deck to ceiling to boot! 😁

Thansl for the info. However, boat now out of water with bow-thruster being repaired at Dave Bixter's who is also fitting a new belt.

Need a new belt for my travelpower and a spare for the alternator. Can't find any info googling (although signal not been great on phone whilst away). The currebt belts are as follows: travelpower Gates micro-v 68397 alternator 0103 Medway AX57 13X1448 Li any info much appreciated.

Am no expert either but should it be so close to the RCD?

very true, although I think EBC were one of the first to go 'online'. Shame as they were very knowledgeable and extremely helpful.

Was looking at some pricing and this popped up when I visisted EBC's site: https://www.elyboatchandlers.com/

Definitely has to be a consideration as the same on a previous boat was very reliable.