Markinaboat

sounds more like it to me too!

I walked along it last week en route back home from work. Met up with a local and I asked him the correct pronunciation. Phonetically, it went like this ... Pont ka stecth tee or Pont ka stucth tee

out of the several boats I've had over the past 18 years, it's the first that hasn't had a power source selector. Other than my previous boat which was also a Mastervolt system (with genny) which had auto-sensing so the inverter and seperate charger could be off but shore (or genny in as was the case then) power came through. The other reason I forgot to mention was to have a rest from the hum at night. which is what I do at every given opportunity! Current contract finishes end of the month so will be off for sure to get blasted and two-packed (the boat not me ... well, maybe occasionally blasted!) 😁

Does it go down to something like the red unit at the back of the engine like this? It's the hydraulic drive pump.

Thanks guys. Yep, there's no manual source selector. Thought it may have been automated by a box of tricks, assuming such box hasn't developed a fault. It's not a major issue unless the MV packs up altogether of course. Will find a sparks to modify in due course.

Recently changed boat and thought I'd turn the charger off for a while to work the batteries as mostly hooked up to shore power which is providing a satisfactory supply. It's a Mastervolt Inverter/charger (2000/60/24v) and as soon as I set it to off, the shore power was cut and no A/C. The boat is a 1999 Norton Canes with a professional fitout. Has several A/C breakers in a cupboard so definitely not a DIY job. Could there be a reason for this scenario? thanks in advance for any feedback!

😀

To some degree Mike, the mention of 24v could be of interest otherwise a typical response could have been "why do you need 300w?" Now the topic/post has ventured away from the whole point of amorphous panels occupying a greater area of roof. I still think there's an element of pedantry here, as in many other posts these days. Twad

When in actual fact, all I needed to write was "Amorphous so would need to cover too much of the roof to get the 300W which I'd need to achieve my desired amps". I would've thought the statement was fairly obvious, even if appended to unnecessarily? However, please accept my apology's - I'll make more of an effort in future posts to cater for the pedantics 😉

Tony, I think you may have misread that. Amorphous panels of an equivalent wattage will take up a considerably larger area of roof space. That's my point. Thanks Mark

Interesting, can see the benefits of magnetic sheet assuming magnets don't interfere with the workings of the solar panels. Looked up the Unisolar and Lensuns and I think they're Amorphous so woild need to cover too much of the roof to get 300W with a reasonable amps at 24v

😁 I think it COULD look tidier if executed well. So were these Amorphous or Poly Alan? I looked at Bimble's site but the majority of their stock appears to be used.

I do know that but have been warned off Mono if doubling up two for 24v, something to do with if a cell/s fail in one panel can overload/damage the other? So, will likely be one 250-300w Mono or one to two if Poly. "unless you can slightly bend your ply panels by perhaps putting something under them in the middle and strongly screwing down the edges" Good point! Maybe shaped, varnished hardwood blocks epoxied down then screw directly through panel/ply.

I think the panels are 3mm thick so we're looking at 12mm as opposed to 25-30mm .. ish? Good point about the metal brackets snagging the ropes. Plenty of nylon/ABS brackets out there so must be something similar to the norm but lower. With regards to durability, if the panels were knocked or had something (not too heavy) dropped on them, would the Mono (glass?) be more susceptible to damage than the poly stick on's? I must fight this OCD! 🤣 sounding like 6 of one and half dozen of the other to me! 😵

I'd be happy with 5.9 amps in float mode on a 24v system.