Roy Steiner

Thanks, very helpful, I am working on a similar solution. My last inspection included the need to cover the batteries so in many ways my covers are to fulfil that request albeit probably less needed.

The plastic ones. What you describe is what I will be making but with a cover over the timber section purely because I need to get a feel for the materials and it will be more damp resistant than plywood.

I will probably include a frame underneath and sloped top to prevent pooling from condensation but battery covers are expensive and batteries are too large for me to be able to 3d print one in one piece. It should work as it only has condensation to deal with but happy to hear otherwise if any one has any concerns.

That is really encouraging .... thank you. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks, really helpful and well appreciated

If canvas is the material I choose; no. If I choose acrylic or pvc, yes unless you think otherwise. It would be purely to reduce corrosion as advised on my last boat inspection. The bilge should be significantly less damp as I have sorted more effective water drainage, (rain used to flow into the bilge through drainage holes in the steps down to the cabin door). yes thanks.

I am looking at making my own cratch cover. I know it may not be as good as buying one but as I am retired I have no surplus money and I would like the challenge anyway. Should I be successful I may be looking at a pram hood also but one step at a time. There are older posts on the subject but I could not find anything recent, hence the new thread. In the first instance I am looking for advice on material and material sources. I have seen acrylic, pvc and canvas and currently I am an open book for advice and preference. I am looking for a good supplier for material; historically I know there was a forum member who either owned or work for a supply company but I cannot find the thread. I realise many will advise against this route but the woodwork is not a problem to me and I am having expert support/training on the sewing aspect and have bought a sewing machine fit for purpose. I only have a 36 foot narrowboat so the cover is a sensible size to work with. Any advice and guidance would be helpful and may be helpful to others. I do plan to make battery covers from the material in the first instance to familiarise myself with the nature of the product I choose to go for.

Thanks blackrose. I will definitely be going for Hempel primer/undercoat unless anyone else has different experience. I suspect this posting has now run dry but since the weather is not good for painting I will wait a short while before proceeding. 👍

It is a step down into the cabin. Unfortunately it is below water level so water can collect there if drainage blocked. I am fixing up better drainage with a pipe so it goes directly to where the bilge pump is. It usually has a small wooden deck in it so the gloss will be fine. Owing to historical blockages and retained water, the corrosion needs addressing, fortunately not a welding job but a few more years of similar suffering may lead to such a need, hence a belt and braces job!

My bilge is already painted with the Jotamastic and in light grey as you suggest. Great minds think alike although my mind is probably not so great. My issue is painting the footwell and gas locker which I would like in the boat colour, and will be exposed to UV, hence a topcoat. I presume you are referring to Bonda Rust primer; I see from the data sheet that it is an alkyd resin; not sure of compatibility with Jotamastic 😞

Sorry, I may have misled you there. The reference to fibreglass was merely that it overlapped paint systems, the paint surface I will be working on is Jotamastic 90 which is what you were referring to in the previous topic. Thanks for being so perceptive and taking the time to check on my post 👍 My bilge I have left as Jotamastic topcoat as it does not have direct sunlight

Thanks, may have an answer there. blackrose suggested Hempel primer undercoat and looking at the datasheet it is suitable to paint on fibreglass so would perhaps be suitable as an undercoat and the Hempel advice booklet suggests can be overpainted with one part gloss. I will await further pearls of knowledge so please keep them coming.

Thanks. Their alternatives are either an acrylic paint, a two pack polyurethane or a two pack epoxy but that is not surprising as I believe they are their only topcoats. I have not found any enamel topcoats other than a domestic enamel paint that would not be suitable as a coach enamel. I therefore cannot be sure if their advice is bound by what they make or the paint is actually unsuitable for enamel topcoats. I am sure I have read that you can paint over it but that is less than anecdotal. I therefore will need to rely on user experience, hence my post.

I have painted my bilge with Jotamastic 90 following excellent advice from my previous posting. The advice was spot on and I am well pleased with the result. I have some areas such as a foot well leading into the cabin and the gas locker with corrosion problems and after thorough preparation I would like to coat it with the same product followed by HMG coach enamel. It does advise in it's datasheet that it is suitable as a primer. In your experience, can I paint straight onto the Jotamastic, have a different paint such as a grey primer in between, apply while still not fully cured or wait for full curing and sand lightly before painting and indeed any information I have not yet considered. I have looked at the datasheets etc but they just want to plug their own products which are not in the right colour for my needs and I suspect dealers will feel obliged to give the same information as in the datasheet.

Great minds think alike, I am planning exactly the same thing. Thanks for sharing your invaluable solution. Roy

The engine may be coming out if the big end has gone, awaiting return of the engineers to evaluate. If so, you may be right subject to the time needed to rebuild the engine and weather conditions as it will be canal side with no cover. I am looking at all options at the moment as I cannot do anything until the engineers return.