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Tell your bank you want to claim one of the payments back under the direct debit guarantee scheme. You will then have your money back and CRT and the bank can bicker with each other at lesiure.

Gives whack with a piece of wood. Always worked on my old Triumph Dolomite

Not that I am aware of, no. What they have done with some of the exhibits they are keeping is to put them into dry storage. They will not be "restored" as the museum reckons it will destroy the historical integretary of how they were originally constructed. I will not get into the ramifications of how the boats came to be as they are as it has been well covered elsewhere. Other people have differing views however. One exhibit that is being looked after in a floating condition is "Chocolate Charlie's" (Atkins) Mendip.

For best practice, do this on a slow water point blocking a flight of locks during Easter weekend.

I'd be far more concerned about the wastage corrosion around the waterline than the unblacked baseplate. It may well be that the boat has never been blacked since it was first launched - does the OP know its history? A 2011 boat should still be in the first flush of its youth. Yes, me, for one. The deepest baseplate pits seem to be 0.4mm, which is 4% of the total steel thickness. They may well have been there since new. Nothing to worry about at all.

No, tried that but significant issues. Number 1. When I put the deck boards back down, said deck boards interfered with the designed rotation of the fan and made a horrible banging noise that upset Mrs Bob. Mrs Bob does not like loud banging noises. Number 2. The rocker box cover is only at 70deg C therefore the heat required to spin the fan was not reaching th lower limits of accepatability, thus not providing the necessary cooling. Number 3. The only bit of the engine hot enough to drive the fan is the alternator itself, and with the fan sat on the alternator, it was even closer to the deck boards. See point 1. Number 4. Unfortunately the alternator is round in profile so said fan does not fit properly to get adequate heat transfer from hot alternator surface to bottom plate of fan so fan rotation is severely compromised. Number 5. There is no number 5. Number 6. Given the base of the fan is not magnetic - a serious drawback in the design of these articles- it cannot be mounted sideyways without the aid of some other supports. I did try some plastic tie wraps but unfortunately these melted causing the fan to fall of and make a load banging noise. See point 1. Number 7. When I finally tied it on sideyways with a bit of string, It did rotate but unfortunately this was in the wrong direction i.e. In a plane parallel to the alternator but not impacting on the alternator instead. Maybe some form of duckting might work. This time the duck was not impressed. The duck doesn't get impressed often. Number 8. I did wot Peterboat told me and bought a bilge blower with a pipe that directs the cold air from the bottom of the bilge for <£50. It doesn't make a noise so the duck and Mrs Bob are happy. Number 9. The motor on the fan (a 5 blade baby equaliser) is b**gered again so it's currently on the naughty step.

Ok I see. Then I guess the OP is screwed!😂

Yuk!

⬆️ He knows

I've recently read a fair number of boat surveys. (Enough to have a pretty good guess at who wrote that one!) And you only have to be moderately literate to understand that the bits of the survey above are not recommending welding. So, asking the seller to make a 'welding sized' discount may not go down too well. I appreciate you enjoying being insulting and so I'm happy for you to keep doing so.

There is no point only welding up the pits the surveyor found as 99% of the hull has not been cleaned to a condition to inspect it. It will be difficult to get a sensible quote for welding up the pits without cleaning off all the marine growth and possibly grit blasting as well to remove blacking from any pits so they can be found. This is getting expensive. If you do go this route, and I am not sure I would, if the surface is grit blasted then I would use epoxy 2 pack after pit repairs as though expensive it is much better than traditional blacking.

There are a few members of this Forum that will not agree with Recommendation 5 regarding painting the baseplate . Overall that seems a reasonable survey , the base plate on my boat when built was thinner than that boats 10mm minus the 1.8mm pits . I would ensure the base plate is cleaned and the pits treated with Vactan and then coated with Sealex 'B' bitumastic. . How old is the boat ?

Blimey, there's a blast from the past. Being an outdoorsy gurl both by leisure and profession I used to see (and use) these quite a lot, thankfully you hardly see them any more, they were such a footer, and have probbly gone the way of the lorrymans wrench (or hitch depending what part of the country you hail from). They may be a footer but they are easy to do to the point where you can do them by feel so as easy to tie in the dark as in the day, and you're right they can be done from both sides, and if you can get the tension right can be undone quickly by running your hand up between the two sheets. You used to get them on covers for lorries and trailers where the loops were slightly elasticated and secured at the bottom by hooking the bottom lace/loop over an anchor point of some sort, the elastic allowed you to pull the whole thing tighter making it less prone to trouble from the wind; but of course the elastic didn't last for ever. If I was fitting one I wouldn't be using a knot at the bottom, I would have the last lace elastic so I could easily pull it over on and off a hook but my experience is that the wind will always find a way to get in about this kind of tie method so it needs to be really well made with a good over flap, the correct length laces, and the last lace really tightly secured or you just give the wind something to play with which will eventually cause damage. I wouldn't say this method is any more robust than a really good zip but possibly for different reasons; I'm not trying to sound like a rain cloud but unlike with a zip every one of those laces has the potential to provide the wind with a little pocket to get in and buffet around, so can work well if made well but can can also get trashed pretty quickly in bad weather if not. I think they look really nice cos I like things like that but on a more practical note the rope laces may have the potential to out live a zip but the stitching of the seams would need to be extra secure, a sturdy over flap thingy (I'm not sure what you actually call them) that maybe also had heavy duty snap fasteners or velcro and either a good anchor point for the bottom lace/loop or don't make it a loop so that you can tie it in a better more secure way, would be my suggestions. Sorry that's a bit rambly

Same here, and set the News of the World alight trying to make it draw

We'll try anything...twice, First time may go wrong. It looks simple enough, wouldn't be my first choice but each to their own. In our experience the main reason zips fail are A.The original manufacture of the cover used a coloured thread, these rot as they have been bleached so they colour can be added. ( to fix only use natural or black). B. The zip is a coil zip which can't stand sideways tension that well.( to fix use Vislon Number 10 continues toothed zip) C.Its a small tooth size ( to fix use Vislon Number 10 continues toothed zip) D. It has been caught at gunwale height whilst cruising/in lock or by other boats collision. ( to fix tuck side of cratch onto top of gunwale when cruising, Build 4ft thick wall around your boat every time you moor!!)

VAWTs are vibration free (or should be) but some models were known to generate an annoying tone. Glad to hear yours isn't one of them! The Rutland, like most HAWTs, is prone to vortex shedding from the trailing edges of the blades, hence the amplitude modulation (helicopter impressions) and flapping sounds. All small turbines suffer from the basic problem of wind shear, though: you can't get them high enough to avoid ground effects!

If the engine runs and the rev counter works (assuming you have one?) then why not use a tachometer on the prop shaft? This is a cheap non-contact one, you just apply a small piece of reflective tape to the shaft and point the laser at it https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tachometer-Roeam-Non-Contact-2-5RPM-99-Reflective/dp/B07RXYRNFF/ref=lp_6286405031_1_17?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1581671950&sr=1-17

Typical Tory elitist, cold milk, ice cream and didn’t even have to take the top off

Can't open the link! But if this is the machine I think it is then it's actually a Motorola design, taken over by prestolite and often badged leece Neville or mastervolt. There's an adjustable regulator available (I will look it up) and it shouldn't be difficult to shut it down at 14V using a cheap external reg to trigger a latching relay. I'm not sure if leece Neville make anything other than labels!

Personally I think you would be better off bringing a feed/earth wire from a brush outside the alternator and open circuiting that to give zero amps charge, but what you are thinking should not damage anything. In theory 15V on the sense lead is likely to cause the regulator to shut down but I can not be sure it will so experimentation is called for. If you drop the sense voltage to zero then the alternator is likely to go to maximum voltage and that may well be an "emergency" voltage higher than the regulated voltage. If you disconnect any alternator's onboard regulator then any external regulator that allows you to program the regulated voltage would limit the regulated voltage to whatever you want but I cant see how it would produce a zero charge. I suspect something like a Raspberry Pi measuring a variety of inputs and operating a relay in the rotor/brush feed would be easier and leaving the inbuilt regulator to control maximum charging voltage.

Decided to rip the old ceiling down and start again with new panels and LED fittings. Hopefully easier than messing around with cleaning and covering holes etc. Could be an opportunity to get some better insulation up there too. I’ve got a pallet of Celotex/Kingspan boards which I’ll see if I can use. Depends on whether I can get them to fit the curve of the roof or not. Already stripped out 2nd bathroom and knocked through from one bedroom. Big bedroom now! 🙂

It does! I painted mine a very dark blue and a few years ago the boat was unbearable. Painted much lighter, in the heatwave a couple of years back it was relatively comfortable, and I've a lot of insulation under the roof.

All the complicated stuff assembled. The resistor is visible around the circumference, highlighted by the white ceramic insulators. Connection to the moving contact at 5 o'clock, from resistor to second contact (motor) at 6 o'clock.

If you look at the DVD you will see scenes in the trailer filmed at the Gauging lock at Buckby which don't appear in the film.....