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alan_fincher last won the day on September 1 2018

alan_fincher had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Building a very small fleet of ex working boats!
  • Occupation
    Retired (from Computing)
  • Boat Name
    "Sickle" & "Flamingo" (both built 1936, by W.J. Yarwood and Sons)
  • Boat Location
    Grand Union (Southern)

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  1. Yeah but.... There aren't that many places we can turn the 72 footer, so whilst a quick round trip of a few miles can be done with Sickle, with Flamingo we would be forced go a lot further.
  2. Sounds reasonable. However in my case there are no fuel hoses, as it is copper all the way from the tank to the lift pump and then the filter. Could have originated from the delivery hoses of my supplying fuel boats though!
  3. Another update, (after much head scratching)... I found it hard to get consistent behaviour, and apart from one attempt that again saw it running for up to a minute, but only on a "slow tickover" with no response to the speed wheel, it fell back to a point where it didn't start at all. Attempts to manually pump fuel seemed to be working when I broke the connection between pump and filter, but when reconnected to the filter the delivery seemed to stop. Opening up the filter there was a very little black powdery matter in the bottom of the housing, but really not very much at all. The fuel looked clean, and there was nothing visibly trapped in the paper element. There are several joints, as well as a cut off tap, in the feed from tank to lift pump, but I tried giving all an extra tightening with a spanner, and none seemed loose or likely to be drawing in air, Eventually, with persistence I was able to hand pump fuel until it was coming out of the bleed screws on the filter. The engine then started but again with only a "slow tickover", and no response on the speed wheel, and ran this way for over a minute. Then, when it seemed it might stall, it slowly started to speed up. After about a minute or two of erratic running, it was behaving fairly normally, and the speed could finally controlled on the speed wheel. I left it ticking over for an hour or more. Leaving it an hour so, (but while still quite hot), KI was able to start immediately with no problem whatsoever. So it seems there was some kind of contamination somewhere, which hopefully has now self cleared. The question now is am I prepared to take it for a spin down the cut - or is there a danger it might die on me when several miles from the mooring.
  4. I think it is an HA3 or HB3 (or, just possibly an HR3). Definitely an 'H' series I think.
  5. Nice, but... ... your post to a video link really should have contained a bagpipes warning!
  6. An update.... We have come up to the boats hopefully better equipped than when I first tried to look briefly at this issue. What we have includes... New battery New battery charger Pela pump Marine16 diesel bug test kit Replacement fuel filter ** ** Unfortunately this is no good. HAs normally use the metal cased type that fits between a top and base. Sadly the HA2 in question (an ex industrial engine) uses a paper element which goes inside a permanent "can". So far I know... The fuel passing through the lift pump looks clean The manual operating lever on the lift pump doesn't feel very "convincing" - a significant amount of force still produces less movement than I might expect. Like last time (with a new battery), it started straight away, but unlike last time continued to run at probably less than tick-over for maybe a whole minute. Winding the speed up and down however produced no discernable difference. Just briefly it sounded like it might pick up some speed, but the died. I haven't been able to reproduce this since. I've not tried sampling the tanks yet. Any ideas, please?
  7. Are they that weird? I guess you could have some Hudson stick on rivets added for a more "authentic" feel.
  8. Given how few of them were built, It seems a strange co-incidence that Apollo Duck lists two of the Severn & Canal Carrying Charles Hill built "Tree" class motors offered for sale at the same time. Both are converted, one is shortened. The differences in prices hoped for by their owners though is staggering. You can have the full length Pine for under £35K https://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/narrow-boats-traditional-for-sale/683836 But the 55 foot long Fir, (also once Bridget), would set you back £90K https://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/narrow-boats-traditional-for-sale/655585 I know which one I'd be going to view!
  9. Yes, my mind was already heading in this direction , if I can't quickly pinpoint the issue by other means. Yes, I've seen info on this, though it wasn't obvious how reliable the result might be. Well there's the thing. The movement on the lift pump lever seemed possibly a lot less than I remember. It could however have stopped at the point the engine is operating the pump, which, in my experience of other diesels, means lever movement is restricted. The battery was flattened, so I couldn't turn the engine over (no hand start on this HA2). Again I am thinking in this direction, but the diesel tanks are both the full length of the engine room, and not easy to siphon from a low point. Samples taken higher up in the tank looked clear to me Yes, you would think so. But I can't work out why it starts at all. If the flow is impeded or blocked, I would expect it to be reluctant to start at all. I can't say "reliably every time", as the battery was in poor enough sate on latest visit for only one attempt. I now have a shiny new charger sitting here at home, but as the battery is the one that was failing when we first acquired the boat, (possibly 10 years-ish ago) it seems optimistic that it can be returned to good health. Hence I have ordered up a replacement from Tayna. We are hoping to be at the boats this weekend, so hopefully a well charged battery will aid the investigations.
  10. (My first post in a while!) For a number of reasons, (Covid being high amongst them), both our boats have stood unused and unloved for far too long. Trying to get things back on track, one boat has issues that the engine will still start without too much hassle, but having done so, it immediately dies - we are talking no more than 5 seconds of actual running. Fuel contamination, (possibly the dreaded bug?), seems an early thing to rule out. The fuel in both tanks looks visually quite clear, but I have not yet tried taking samples from low down. (This is an historic boat, so we are talking tanks with a capacity well in excess of 500 litres, with probably some 300 litres of fuel present - a lot to deal with if it is contaminated). So what can I do to assess the quality of the fuel, please? Are the kits that allow you to test for the bug going to give me an accurate view? If not, what should I be doing please? The engine is a Lister HA2, and it is fed directly from the main tanks - there is no separate header tank involved
  11. This picture below shows the reason - were were attempting to recreate, so far as is possible, Sickle's appearance in the late 1950s. In fact we have too little yellow line, rather than too much! There should also be a vertical stripe at the back of each cabin side. If we had replicated this it would have been interrupted by the step we have half way up the cabin sides on both sides, and would we felt have looked messy. Like all such things it is a compromise. Almost certainly what we have gone for on hatches and slides is just fiction. We simply couldn't find any picture as a guide, but if someone can provide one then we can modify it accordingly.
  12. Thanks for your good wishes, everybody. Yes, I am back - if a single post constitutes being back! We'll see how it goes, although the forum had become somewhat toxic round about the time I stopped posting. However I'm not seeing any of that now, so fingers crossed.
  13. We had drinks with him and his wife at a pub close to their mooring about a week ago. They are absolutely fine, as Kiwidad has already said.
  14. It's hard to know what advice is appropriate I think when we don't know the details, (including what stove, how hot current tiles are getting, and particularly what is behind them). Whilst tiling over will, as you suggest, only reduce the separation from the stove by a small amount, the quoted 2" at the nearest point already sounds far to little for most normal circumstances. I reiterate my fear that if you change from a white preselective tile to something dark, far more heat may well be transmitted into whatever is behind them. Certainly when we changed white tiles on a previous boat to a "terracotta" type of shade the tiles were far far hotter to the touch when the stovew as being run than they previously had been.
  15. That in itself would worry me, but I suppose it depends o the stove, how hot it runs, and exactly which part of it is that close. I very much hope it is well insulated behind the tiles. Having taken down tiling on a previous boat that was morethan double that distance from the stove at any point, and found fairly charred plywood behind it, the kind of proximity you are quoting is worrying. How hot does the surface of the tiling get? Think carefully about changing to a darker colour, as the darker you go the less heat is likely to be reflected, and the hotter the tiling islikely to get, putting what is behind it at risk, unless there is very good insulation there. This is never something to be gung-ho about, not that I am suggesing you are!), but people have died because they or their boat fitters have made bad decisions when installing soves.
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