Northener

My apologies to all who have offered advice and all those who have wasted their time reading this thread. The toilet is indeed electric. Fuse appears ok so it’s either the pump or the switch.

Thanks for the replies. After searching more I now think I do have an electric flush. I had assumed it was manual because of the spring under the flush button making it feel as though I was pumping water and the fact that the electric pump made no noise. I am not on the boat at the moment but will search around for a fuse when I return in a few days.

So you have actually fixed it before? I’ve only had the boat a year and it worked perfectly till now. I might as well have at least one go at fixing it before I give in.

All the info I can find refers to toilets with an electric flush, mine is a manual flush. I have just refilled the flushing tank (with some of the pink stuff mixed in) but pumping the switch produces no flushing water. The toilet has been empty all winter so maybe the pump needs priming, or maybe something is broken. The spring under the pump is ok and pumping feels ok too but no water produced Photo of the pump/switch below. Can anyone point me in the right direction or I’m going to have to take a jug of water with me when I need to go?

Forgot to mention, boat does have a galvanic isolator.

Not a problem with an aluminium boat. The prop does have a small cone anode but this is still ok after 2 years.

Thanks for all the info. I currently have 3 deckboards, the centre one is rectangular and wouldn’t be too much of a problem, but the two outer ones taper slightly towards the rear of the boat and each have a curve on one corner. As I would really like neat boards I think I’ll try to find a professional to cut them for me from a template. Incidentally, the boat is aluminium and 20 years old and shows no signs of corrosion. No anodes needed either.

I intend to replace the deck boards on my cruiser stern NB with buffalo board or Hexagrip. How easy is it to cut the boards to shape? The suppliers I’ve found on line will only cut straight lines and only a rectangular shape (ie with 90 degree angles). I need to cut curves for the rear corners. Also, does anyone know of a supplier close to Swindon?

Thanks for the quick reply. By bellows type I mean it is sort of concertina like. I am near Oxford and would like to pick one up tomorrow if possible.

I need to replace the hose which takes the coolant from the engine to the skin tank. (It might be tank back to engine, I’m not sure) It is the lower of the 2 hoses from Nanni engine to the skin tank. Just below the hose is the coolant drain plug. Can someone tell me how much coolant I will need to catch when I drain it. My engine is the 3 cylinder Nanni, 21hp. I don’t really want all the coolant in the bottom of the boat. Also, any ideas where I could get a new hose, the hoses to and from the skin tank are bellows type, but I don’t suppose they have to be.

Just tried this. Excellent result. Sprayed on, left for 10 minutes then wiped off.

Sounds a good suggestion, will give it a try. Thanks.

How do you clear the stuff off the top of your narrow boat? It dries like concrete.

Thanks for all help. It seems that I may or may not have a problem. I’ve left the boat unplugged and will return next week and see if the batteries get warm when I put on charge again.

As I am about to start using the boat soon I connected to mains power. I don’t usually leave the boat plugged in but plug in to keep the batteries charged up every now and then. Before I plugged in last week I didn’t think the batteries were low but thought they might need topping up. I have found that after 4 days on charge I have used 2 kWh of mains electricity. This seems rather a lot. Nothing was turned on in the boat, and the inverter was switched to charge only mode. Can somebody tell me if this seems excessive? I have a starter battery of 80 ah and 2 leisure batteries of 110 ah and (I think) 200ah.