dave moore

Hi Mark We are all in the same boat, so to speak......I’ve a pair of doors to decorate here at home, then that’s it for the duration. I’ve taken to resuming stained glass panels, another interest....until I ran short of lead to assemble them! The garden, on the other hand, is looking pretty good for the time of year. Stay safe, both.

Resolute’s floors were all 18mm ply.

Drooping fender, drooping boater......pull it back up and take a link or so out of each chain. Hammer back down if needed. It should sit tight on the outward curve of the stem bar, hopefully pointing slightly upwards. Good luck.

As well as being a canal enthusiast, I’m also a lover of limericks. Last Thursday I had a call from one of my regular yards, wondering whether the current crisis had spurred me to compose something. It hadn’t, but a few minutes later this emerged from my cerebral sludge: This nasty new virus, Corona Quite cuts down the chance of a boner You can cough, sneeze and splutter Sweat, curse and mutter As you lie in your bed all alone-a 😉

I can only agree. Beautifully modelled....but a pigeon box on a butty...

Scrumbling? I think not.....😏

Just an idle thought....if you decide to use planks rather than ply for the linings, bear in mind that they can shrink once placed. I grained a cabin out once then shrinkage opened up the tongue and groove joints, somewhat spoiling the finished look. We used birch ply on Resolute and I simulated a planked look afterwards.

Having read previous posts, I’d like to add a bit of background. Ratcliffe’s, the major scumble manufacturer, originally made only oil based scumbles intended for use on similar undercoats. They were taken over by Tor coatings, still producing oil based stuff with the Ratcliffe badge, until a clash with the Volatile Organic Compound regs, some time in the late 90s I think, led to the production of a water based product, still available today. Some painters swore by it, others at it. Personally, I’ve never tried it, but as others have said, it should sit well on water based undercoats. These days I buy clear scumble glaze from Polyvine and tint it myself with light oak stain, though they also produce a ready mixed light oak. All oil based and suiting this particular dinosaur. As said previously, a decent varnish is essential. My preference is for Craftmaster, though some yards have successfully used yacht varnishes by International or Johnson’s to varnish my work. Blackfriars is fine too. I heartily endorse earlier advice about the cautious use of a knotting rubber. It’s easy to get excited by the effect produced and I understand the temptation to use it randomly. The late Chris Lloyd, writing in Waterways World years ago, described the over use as “ Like rifle targets holding hands”, a most apt description to me. Would any decent joiner use timber riddled with knots? I doubt it.....

I might.......

I use a deeper yellow undercoat than Ratcliffe’s Chrome Buff, usually Albany Amber U/c 10, oil based, from Brewers. Light oak scumble over it gives a honey coloured effect, as if the oil lamp is lit before it is. Craftmaster Clear varnish to follow for me.

Thanks John. It did go on a bit, unlike the Brum Boat jobs you recall...in and out in a few hours. This was about an intermittent 7 months. I’d do a bit, then others had to do their bit, and so on. Probably the most intricate job to date. Cheers! D

Thanks to all for the offers of help, I’ve managed to have sight of the review now. The lads at CTS and myself reckoned that the finished boat was so vivid that a commemorative beer called Swandazzler should have been brewed to celebrate the completion. Truly, it was a marathon!

Hi all I learned yesterday that Tom Chaplin’s boat, Sarah Eliza, was reviewed recently in WW. I had much to do with it in recent years. Can anyone tell me which issue it’s in? I no longer subscribe. Thanks Dave

Hi Mark. No, it’s not me, but thanks for asking. We are both fine, latest scans clear. Still managing a bit of boating from time to time too, still waggling a paintbrush. You and Kim too??