Jump to content


Site Owner Donate to Canal World
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DHutch

  • Birthday 05/26/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Steam Engines, Boats, Canals, Sailing, Engineering, Forums, Friends/Family, etc.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Senior Design Engineer
  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location
    Northwest & roaming.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

45839 profile views

DHutch's Achievements

  1. Typically surveys are conducted at the point of sale, at the buyers request and expense (ideally by an independent surveyor) , so the fact you do not have a current survey shouldn’t be an issue for the sale. One of the best tests you can do is to hit it with the back of a ball peen hammer while on drydock/hardstanding as well as a condition check on the engine, that is all I would really be after, although I would likely pay surveyor to do that for me. Maybe some ultrasound readings to determine plate thickness in a few select areas. As said, if it needs hull work, it is easy to access at this point in time. Your choices are either to use broker, or direct list with sites such as Apollo Duck. Depending where in the world you are (Bath?) , freinds of mine at Northwick Drydock manage boat sales as well as maintenance. http://www.northwichdrydock.com/about/ Good luck. Daniel
  2. Plenty of wall there! Looks like new. Big old machine, with onboard tank as well.
  3. Nice. Sounds like a hello of a piece of kit. Best washer we have used is that at Northwich Drydock Co, they have a custom-spec Cleanwell washer, 15hp 415v motor driving a large Interpump head which but getting on for the flow rates you detail (maybe 30l/min 250bar) all be it a cold only unit. The kickback when you pull the trigger is only beaten by how much you move forward when you release again. You can do an 'ok' job with less, but it takes all the faff out of the job and just lifts of any dirt, loose paint, rust blooms even, and does so quickly and efficiently so you are not tempted to reduce the quality to speed up the job! Past yards where their washer hasnt really been up to is ive gone over the whole hull with a cup brush in a 5" grinder, not required here!
  4. Obviously a bit slow on this, nominations closed and cash awarded. Certainly an interesting idea, and CWDF would not turn its nose up at £1000 obviously, however for classification, we are not a registered charity and as above I think it would be highly unlikely the additional paperwork and ongoing scrutiny would be viable for the benefits over an above our current status as an informal non-for-profit entity. Thanks for bring it to our attention, and feel free to PM/tag me about this sort of thing if it comes up again. Daniel
  5. Having worked with American engineers, and seen what they considered good/acceptable/sensible, I am less surprised!
  6. Our boat was grit blasted from new, inside and out, before painting with an epoxy blast primer (very thin, low viscosity) and then a Zinc rich epoxy (high build), and then two part polyurethane for the topside and inside, and a epoxy blacking below waterline. Thirty years on, and it still very good indeed. On a four yearly dry dock, we jet wash and recoat. Good adhesion throughout all coats, exceptions permitted, and basically zero rust to speak of. The paint is too soft to sand, and a good jet wash (large industrial spec) gives a very clean surface. Some scraping in specific/damaged areas. Epoxy ali on the bare bits, and then two coats all over. Ensure its dry, see you in four years! Much of the inside is also like new, certainly all the sides and roof, and the majority of the base plate under the cabin. Topsides are recoated after around 6-8year, mainly for cosmetic reasons. Good wash down with soap water and a scotch/3m pad. There is slight rusting on the upside sides and underside of the scantlings, caused be shallowing of the blasting, but this is only surface rust. And there is some rusting towards the aft bilges where water has been allowed to stand over the years and the coating cant really be maintained. Even still, the only really bad bit is where we stupidly in hindsight left lead ballast stored in contact with the wet steel. Heyho. Keep up the good work! Daniel
  7. When I took Ha! I guess so. When I took this site on from Jon many years ago, he was of the opinion that it should as so far as possible be run as it is now, free at the point of use, and without advertisements. and while I am sure he would support changing that if it was well supported and or the only practical way of retaining the forum in a practical way, as the is yet to be the case we proudly remain free to use and free from adverts. Certainly I have no plans to use the forum to generate personal profit. Given we are bless with generous members who give their own time and money towards the running of the site, and the software and hosting costs remain manageable and in line with donations, so long as that continues we will remain free to use and advert free. That said, the site does cost time and money time to run, and we are always option to new funding options.
  8. Thanks for posting, every interesting to see. As with basically any painting, the prep is always the most time consuming, and the most important part, but also often the most neglected part. The Jotun paint is also very good I am told, their epoxy ali is also common for car chassis restoration, TVR's etc.
  9. ? Looks like spam, but actually might not be? Not even a proper hyperlink, so maybe just monitor for now.
  10. So from that, most street lights have a cable going into them which can support 7kW or more? Pending the rest of the network holding up. Obviously if multiple lamps are running from a single cable that drops, but it they are going to the main domestic supply, happy days.... Of cause. The lights in my parents street are just jumped across the cables running post to post down the road, with what appears to be 3ft of not very thick twin and earth! Train not a viable option? Cost too much?
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.