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DHutch

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About DHutch

  • Birthday 05/26/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Uttoxeter/Cheshire
  • Interests
    Steam Engines, Boats, Canals, Sailing, Engineering, Forums, Friends/Family, etc.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Principal Design Engineer
  • Boat Name
    EmilyAnne
  • Boat Location
    Northwest & roaming.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.emilyanne.co.uk

Recent Profile Visitors

42782 profile views
  1. If your doing more than one or two get a cutter. https://www.screwfix.com/p/0-26mm-manual-plastic-pipe-shears/59590? Daniel
  2. It varies a bit to be honest. However what we use is the nearly sold rubber type fenders which sink. We use them all year round for normal use, but drop them below water line for the shelf. Daniel
  3. The majority of a good paint system is the prep. The is no point putting the best paint you can get over a muddy flaking rusty mess, you might as well use drainpipe paint. Equally I would next used low quality paint on something as expensive as a narrowboat. Our hull was shot blasted from new, epoxy blast primer in within half an hour, etc. We now maintain it with a singlepack, vinyl copolymer resin paint (Resistex M535) which seems to last 4-5years between coats with reasonable amount of use and moderate prep. it is reasonable soft and doesn't flake, if also quite abrasion resistant. The longer interval saving the time and money involved drydocking more often, particular as for me it's a weeks annual leave. In terms of your application it very much depends what's on the hull now, as whenever you use needs to be compatible. However it might be that using a reasonable quality of something compatible with the current coating and re doing it every 2-3years has as much going for it as investment in moving to something more expensive and long lasting. Daniel
  4. Same as the setup on our boat, it's is less common but by no means unique. The was a bit of a spike in the late 80s due to the availablity of coach equipment I believe, and a mini resurgence recently for very 'high spec' boats with large inverters and microwaves etc as the higher voltage means lower current for the same amount of power. Anyway and as said, four batteries wired to give 24v store the same amount of power as if they were wired as 12v because also the Amp hours (Ah) is half the Watt hours (Wh) is the same and that's the actual amount of energy, same as the kWh (kiloWatt hour) you get billed for on your electric bill. In terms of charging; the last bit of charging lead acids if very slow, so while running the engine can give a good boost from say 50-i0% the last 10-20% the alternator will have backed right off to slow rate of charge which is very inefficient in terms of diesal into charge unless your already due to be moving. This is where solar comes in. So best to run the engine during periods of high load if you have any, or for an hour in the morning after an evenings use to dump a reasonable amount in before the solar takes over some engines/alternators also need to be just above tickover to get good charging. Unless you are moving most days cc-ing and or have enough solar they can keep up alone which is obviously best. You may have an Ampmeter somewhere that shows how much the alternator is putting in to the batteries (engine batteries and or leisure batteries) which will help learn what works best. And you will also learn the limitations and short falls of whatever battery status meter you have. In terms of new batteries; there are many schools of thought from 'buy the cheapest you can and replace regularly' through to 'buy the best you can and they will last forever' and it does slightly depend on the application. If you can't keep them charged any battery will fail prematurely, so your routine matters. Personally we opt for buying reasonably inexpensive big standard 110Ah ish wet cell lead acids, whichever of the known brands is available at a reasonable price, which seems to use ok for our application. In terms of usage; depending on what else you have a fridge is one of the hardest things to run because although the draw at any one time is low (40-50 Watts) it's on all day at maybe 50% duty cycle so your on like 500Wh a day. Big headline loads like a microwave, kettle, hair dryer, washing machines can also take their toll but can be greatly reduced if you for instance run a wash while moving along. Plus a 3000W kettle running for 1min is 50Wh so less than a fridge for the day. Because we just use the boat weekends and holidays we tend to move the boat most of the day, and the turn the fridge off overnight, and don't have a TV onboard. So the batteries really only have to run the lights and water pump. We tend to get ten years out of a set of batteries but they capacity is I'm sure we'll down by the end. Daniel
  5. *Post-fit! Damm autocorrect. Dry as a bone when hot, but let it go cold and it could do about half a pint an hour! Not ideal when you're doing renovation works to the central heating and the immersion wasn't hooked up. However we digress! Daniel
  6. Sadly as you say, often a repair is expensive compared to a replacement, if only in terms of what you get. Ie, £100 for a patch £300 for a whole tank. The repair typically won't have a warranty where typically the new tank will. And as you say, the failed area may be the first of many rather than a one off. Our boats tank is nearly 30 years old, parents domestic tank just about 30yo. Tank we have just taken out of our house to replace with a larger more insulated unvented one like went in in 1965 what makes it 54 year young. Weeped at a post-it Essex flange but the tank itself was sound. Daniel
  7. So who do you pay, and how? Has anyone actually ever paid the money the sign suggests you pay, having stayed for the extra day? Has anyone stayed the extra day without paying, being asked for payment, or being fined for non payment? Daniel
  8. Interesting thread. I have never thought about it before, but our calorifier (hot water tank in the boat) has a nrv and doesn't have an expansion vessel, just a prv in the top. Obviously a domestic hot water tank would have an expansion vessel, or an air-gap at the top of the tank. As said, typically the expansion vessel is fitted on the cold side just after the nrv which means it doesn't see hot water or become a unnecessary loss of heat. Anything is repairable if you want, certainly a copper tank, but a lot of fitters would rather just replace it because it's easier and it's not their money. Modern domestic tanks are now stainless and I'm sure some boat tanks are too. Stainless is also repairable but requires different skills and equipment than those most plumbers carry. Daniel
  9. Thanks Rich, Member suggestions and feedback are very important to us, so please have your say by voting for one of the above options please. Thanks Daniel
  10. Apologies if something has unexpected changed in an update. It's one of the pet peeves is the software providers do then to make tweaks to the defaults, combined occasionally with tweaks we make that have unintended consequences (not the case in this instance afaik) so if that's sorted that great. Email notifications are an obvious feature if you want them (we got plenty of complaints when they stopped a while ago when there was an issue with the mail server) but equally a pain if they are not desirable! Daniel
  11. DHutch

    Edit?

    Thanks indeed. We are are always open and looking for ways we can improve the site. Daniel
  12. Yes! Apologies. Yes, that was my main question. It would be lovely to have a representative, however said, although it is something that has been done, its a quite a job of work to canvas the site opinion on any one topic let alone anything more. However having a copy of minutes and the general conduct of the forum meeting would be interesting. Often I get feedback from the Steam Boat Association as a committee member , however I believe we where unable to field a representative due to it being midweek. So yes, if anyone went and is able to post a summary of the outcome that would be amazing, Else I am sure information will filter through. Thanks Daniel
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