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DHutch

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About DHutch

  • Birthday 05/26/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Uttoxeter/Cheshire
  • Interests
    Steam Engines, Boats, Canals, Sailing, Engineering, Forums, Friends/Family, etc.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Principal Design Engineer
  • Boat Name
    EmilyAnne
  • Boat Location
    Northwest & roaming.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.emilyanne.co.uk

Recent Profile Visitors

42919 profile views
  1. Welding courtesy of Keir Baxter, arranged by Mike Carter and Rebekah Parrot at Northwich Drydock, and very nice it was too! Fire watch was exactly as you would want it to be, very boring, just a slightly wisp of smoke and we burnt off the paint and shrunk back the flame retardant polystyrene sheet. Over to pictures!
  2. Well it might have ended up being a blessing is disguise that although I got various leads of people who might have some but didn't, and confirmation that if I wanted 10 ton rolling it shouldnt be an issue, I ended up drawing a blank and we ordered 2x6m of 50x12 from FH Brundels. Got to the boat, and in areas where you can make out the edges through the paint, weld, and mastic on the lower faces, it was ruddy 50mm all along. Good measuring from my father there! Sigh. Photos for anyone interested.
  3. Good leads. Martin recommendations AJ Steel Stockholders, in Rugby, and or continue searching online for Convex steel bar. Streethay recommend Tamworth Steel as their local stockholders. The chase continues. Daniel
  4. Making some phonecalls and getting some leads, but as yet nothing firm has materialised. We're on drydock next week, so if it comes to it we will have to used 50x12 and accept it will be slightly different. Daniel
  5. Forgot the image, d-bar, or square edge half round. Daniel
  6. We are looking for some 60mm guard irons to add additional rubbing strakes to the bow, most are 50mm (2" x 1/2 ") but I want to match what is there currently if at all possible. Any thoughts ideas welcome, only need around 6m of the stuff. Thanks
  7. Sounds like a good load of advice, and good information about glass linner dates. Presumably an enamel type finish? We have decided to eat at the pub, which is a start. Have good duvets. Boiler will be lit Saturday morning. We do also have some LS-X but maybe that can wait till another day! Closed loop gravity based system with no header tank, so unsure how well leaking fluids would work. Daniel
  8. Is there any way of telling if you have a glass lined one or not? How safe is it to run a stainless steel one that is dry? Asking because it's going to be cold this weekend and our central heating has developed a good hard weep (nearly an actual leak...) and I'm not quite sure what I'm going to find tonight! I believe our original one (1991 ish) was glass lined but we replaced the stove maybe around 2002-2004ish. Daniel
  9. Many thanks indeed as always! Daniel
  10. I am locking this thread, following the recent creation of a 'Politics and Current affairs' subforum. The performance of which will be monitored over time. Thanks Daniel
  11. If your doing more than one or two get a cutter. https://www.screwfix.com/p/0-26mm-manual-plastic-pipe-shears/59590? Daniel
  12. It varies a bit to be honest. However what we use is the nearly sold rubber type fenders which sink. We use them all year round for normal use, but drop them below water line for the shelf. Daniel
  13. The majority of a good paint system is the prep. The is no point putting the best paint you can get over a muddy flaking rusty mess, you might as well use drainpipe paint. Equally I would next used low quality paint on something as expensive as a narrowboat. Our hull was shot blasted from new, epoxy blast primer in within half an hour, etc. We now maintain it with a singlepack, vinyl copolymer resin paint (Resistex M535) which seems to last 4-5years between coats with reasonable amount of use and moderate prep. it is reasonable soft and doesn't flake, if also quite abrasion resistant. The longer interval saving the time and money involved drydocking more often, particular as for me it's a weeks annual leave. In terms of your application it very much depends what's on the hull now, as whenever you use needs to be compatible. However it might be that using a reasonable quality of something compatible with the current coating and re doing it every 2-3years has as much going for it as investment in moving to something more expensive and long lasting. Daniel
  14. Same as the setup on our boat, it's is less common but by no means unique. The was a bit of a spike in the late 80s due to the availablity of coach equipment I believe, and a mini resurgence recently for very 'high spec' boats with large inverters and microwaves etc as the higher voltage means lower current for the same amount of power. Anyway and as said, four batteries wired to give 24v store the same amount of power as if they were wired as 12v because also the Amp hours (Ah) is half the Watt hours (Wh) is the same and that's the actual amount of energy, same as the kWh (kiloWatt hour) you get billed for on your electric bill. In terms of charging; the last bit of charging lead acids if very slow, so while running the engine can give a good boost from say 50-i0% the last 10-20% the alternator will have backed right off to slow rate of charge which is very inefficient in terms of diesal into charge unless your already due to be moving. This is where solar comes in. So best to run the engine during periods of high load if you have any, or for an hour in the morning after an evenings use to dump a reasonable amount in before the solar takes over some engines/alternators also need to be just above tickover to get good charging. Unless you are moving most days cc-ing and or have enough solar they can keep up alone which is obviously best. You may have an Ampmeter somewhere that shows how much the alternator is putting in to the batteries (engine batteries and or leisure batteries) which will help learn what works best. And you will also learn the limitations and short falls of whatever battery status meter you have. In terms of new batteries; there are many schools of thought from 'buy the cheapest you can and replace regularly' through to 'buy the best you can and they will last forever' and it does slightly depend on the application. If you can't keep them charged any battery will fail prematurely, so your routine matters. Personally we opt for buying reasonably inexpensive big standard 110Ah ish wet cell lead acids, whichever of the known brands is available at a reasonable price, which seems to use ok for our application. In terms of usage; depending on what else you have a fridge is one of the hardest things to run because although the draw at any one time is low (40-50 Watts) it's on all day at maybe 50% duty cycle so your on like 500Wh a day. Big headline loads like a microwave, kettle, hair dryer, washing machines can also take their toll but can be greatly reduced if you for instance run a wash while moving along. Plus a 3000W kettle running for 1min is 50Wh so less than a fridge for the day. Because we just use the boat weekends and holidays we tend to move the boat most of the day, and the turn the fridge off overnight, and don't have a TV onboard. So the batteries really only have to run the lights and water pump. We tend to get ten years out of a set of batteries but they capacity is I'm sure we'll down by the end. Daniel
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