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blackrose

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blackrose last won the day on August 6 2020

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  1. I did but it was several years ago. Things may have changed since then. I had to show my driver's licence which was photocopied. From memory I got about 50 quid for 3 x 135 ah batteries
  2. That might be true. If they're better at stopping the heat getting in then they'll be better at stopping it getting out too. I know lots of people who leave their doors, hatches and windows open in the evening/night in hot weather. I don't because the lights in the boat attract insects and I'd rather be a bit too hot for a couple of hours than have things buzzing around my head. Perhaps screens are the answer for both of us, but I've done without them for more than 20 years onboard so I probably won't get them now
  3. But you obviously wouldn't want to open or remove windows if the outside temperature is hotter than the inside temperature. On mega hot days the inside of my boat doesn't get mega hot until around midday. It's only then I start opening everything up. The semicircular top hoppers of my single glazed portholes can be removed so that's half of all the window area, plus I have side doors on both sides, plus the bow & stern doors. If it's still too hot I can switch a fan on but ultimately it's a steel box and the only solution is to go and moor in the shade. I can't see it would be worse than single glazed windows but if you're spending all that money I'd want what Mrsmelly describes and have units that can be removed or at least opened up fully, while still being secure when they're closed
  4. You're right no fittings are required, but I have a closeable nozzle (that's never closed), just because it came with the hose and fits into the filler neck nicely. Have you ever left the bow doors open with the hose from a decent pressure tap filling the tank? Once when the tank was full the hose nozzle shot out the tank filler and landed on the deck pointing into the bedroom, resulting in one soaked mattress! I always close the bow doors now! Do you really monitor your tank as it's filling so you know when it's almost full? That must be like watching paint dry. I've got better things to do. I just let it fill and perhaps waste a bit of water. Guilty as charged. Isn't your well deck self draining? What's the problem with water on the deck?
  5. What is it you want to know exactly?
  6. I think Vactan is cr@p. Mechanical removal of rust is the best way, but if that's not possible and you must use a rust converter then Fertan is better than Vactan in my experience.
  7. Why would getting behind a display panel to check connections involve pulling cables out of the boat? There's almost no extra cable length going to my display panel but it's not difficult to unscrew the panel and lift it a few inches to check behind. The cables can't be pulled out from the back of the panel as they clip in - unless you yanked the panel away using brute force! It seems like you'd rather I hadn't suggested checking the connections at the back of the panel at all Tony, which seems odd to me since in my experience there's a fair chance this is the cause of the problem. I never said it was the first thing to do but it's definitely "a" thing to do if your suggestions yield no results.
  8. Well in that case we also don't know that the OP's practical abilities extend to checking the alternator and engine harness connections as you suggested Tony. Also I never actually said that checking the panel connections was the first thing to do.... As always we can only advise what the potential problems and solutions might be. It's always up to anyone asking for advice to decide whether they have the practical abilities to take on the job.
  9. If it's showing a voltage then surely it's a voltmeter? The voltmeter (for the start battery) on my deluxe Isuzu panel stopped working and so did the LCD engine hours counter in the middle of the revcounter, although the revcounter itself is fine. I believe this is a common problem. I just bought a couple of cheap meters on eBay. I took out the voltmeter from the panel and replaced it with a mechanical engine hours counter of the same diameter and cut a small hole in the aluminium panel for the new voltmeter. Obviously they both needed to be connected behind the panel. Check all the electrical connections on the back of the panel are properly plugged in enawll. It could be that the contacts are dirty and the voltage needs to rise to 14v before there's anything getting through to the meters. Disconnecting and reconnecting the plugs several times might be enough to clean the contacts, or you could buy a can of electrical contact cleaner on eBay and spray a tiny bit onto the connections.
  10. The Travelpower produces AC electricity, so no it doesn't power your inverter. Your inverter is powered by your batteries. It takes DC power and inverts it to AC. So you might want to check that you have the inverter switched off because I can't see that having 2 sources of AC on the same mains ring would be very safe. However, I also know next to nothing about these things so I might be wrong. There isn't another AC selector switch somewhere that needs to be switched to Travelpower is there?
  11. Except unlike the bulbs you've linked to, the green light bulb that someone posted above which I commented on was just a random car bulb and not specifically calibrated for navigation lights. However, as had been stated several times, if you have a faded nav light lens then a new bulb isn't really going to help and a coloured bulb could make matters worse. I'm not sure why that seems so difficult to understand?
  12. Likewise coal, diesel, petrol and any other form of carbon or hydrocarbon based fuel can also be seen as "stored solar energy". The difference is course is that burning wood is carbon neutral as the tree will have absorbed the equivalent amount of carbon dioxide over its lifetime as that release during its combustion, whereas fossil fuels such as coal & oil will not have been able to do that in any functional timescale because the carbon dioxide was absorbed millions of years ago.
  13. Most people wouldn't dream of botching any other piece of navigational equipment on their boats so I'm not quite sure why we have so many suggestions to that effect on this subject? It's not about whether you're going to get into trouble for having an incorrect navigation light, it's a more about making sure the light is the correct colour and brightness to actually be seen and function as a navigation light. For that reason forget about green bulbs, green paint, nail varnish, moulding your own lens 😂, and either replace the lens or the whole light with a new one.
  14. If you put a motor on the end of a butty or joey is it still traditional? I thought they were both examples of traditional unpowered craft? I can't help thinking that if you want a motorised boat then you should buy a boat designed for an engine rather than bastardising traditional unpowered boats.
  15. Mmm, how do we know that green bulb is suitable for a boat navigation light? I'm not sure why people aren't reading the thread. A suitable green bulb might be ok if used in conjunction with a clear lens, but the OP has a faded green lens and using both together may compromise brightness.
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