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blackrose last won the day on January 11

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  1. I've been about a bit and in fact what I've noticed is that the vast majority of boats moored inconsiderately are narrow boats. Yet lots of your posts seem to use the same sorts of anti-widebeam tongue in cheek rhetoric. The same joke told repeatedly tends to get a bit boring to the point one starts to think it's no longer really meant as a joke.
  2. You did switch the fuel tank isolator back on after replacing the filter? Just checking...
  3. It's not a given that the gland will fail in the way you describe and I've heard about very few failures. I suspect the owner of the one you saw didn't maintain his. Anyway if I get water in the engine room it's fine, I can just pump it out. What I don't want is a layer of grease in there. My water lubricated gland is 14 years old. If I need to replace it I'll replace it with another water lubricated gland, maybe the Volvo model. I think forum member Catweasel fitted one fairly easily. I'd never fit an old fashioned greasy gland. Had one of them on my last boat. They're horrible things and I've seen a few of them fail too through lack of maintenance.
  4. Yes, looks like some bloke with a stick welder did it in about 5" high lettering. The plate in the gas locker is part of the hull at the front joining the two sides of the bows, visible as soon as you open the lid of the gas locker. In the engine room it's welded on the baseplate inside the engine drip tray.
  5. My HIN number is welded onto a plate in the gas locker and also welded onto the base plate in the engine space. (2005 Liverpool Boat)
  6. Have you actually found the source of the leak and fixed it? It wasn't clear from your original post. If not, all your scraping and wire brushing will be a waste of time and effort. Edit: Always switch your water pump off when you leave the boat, and if you're onboard and hear the pump activating regularly for no apparent reason then investigate.
  7. Before I switched to epoxy I used to put a couple of coats of International Primocon primer on my boat prior to blacking. It sticks to the steel better than blacking and extends the times between blacking by about a year. It's made for above or below water applications. A very similar product called Vineyguard is made by Jotun. They're both silvery single pack paints. If you're fortunate the previous owner will have used an underwater primer but some idiots think ordinary red oxide or grey zinc phosphate primers can be used below the waterline. It doesn't really matter that much. Whatever is on your hull, if it's covered with bitumen you'll have to get the boat out the water within a couple of years, pressure wash it and put more bitumen on top. It's garbage and doesn't last long however well you apply it.
  8. I don't have any oil or grease in my bilges. I've only ever used the wet vac for getting the old antifreeze out after changing it. When I see the state of some boat engine bilges I'm so glad to have a water lubricated stern gland and an engine without oil leaks. I remember during a BSS inspection several years ago when the inspector said "It's so nice to see a clean, dry engine space. You wouldn't believe some of the crap I have to deal with."
  9. I use an old wet & dry vac too. With The long vacuum intake tube I can reach anywhere in the engine bilge and get everything out.
  10. How much more do Midland want to crimp a terminal to each end? I don't know whether they provide that service but other good chandlers do for a few quid extra. I ended up buying a set of big crimpers about 14 years ago for some ridiculous price. Never worked out why they were so expensive. I guess they're not a common household tool so don't benefit from economies of scale.
  11. So they're grounding because they're not deep draughted enough? Ok, I'm trying to understand the logic. In my opinion, too many narrow boats are wallowing around in shallow muddy ditches and need to try some proper boating on rivers.
  12. Good job you did. You wouldn't have discovered it otherwise and it would just have got worse.
  13. I tried that once. Didn't make a blind bit of difference. Once the calorifier is hot it's hot and then you can't get rid of the hot water quick enough.
  14. Living on a narrowboat and Dutch barge are likely to be two completely different things. If you're really not sure about which you want to do then perhaps you need to have a proper think or trial both if you can find barges for hire.
  15. I'm still not sure if the OP has a separate inverter and charger or if it's a combi, but if it is a separate inverter the first thing I'd do is switch it off because if it's on and the mains has tripped it may be trying to power the battery charger which is trying to charge the batteries, which are trying to power the inverter, and around and around we go. It's an impossibility and it shouldn't be wired like that but lots are. Even if it's a combi I'd switch it to "charge only" just to simplify things and stop large loads being taken from the batteries until they can be properly recharged (assuming they aren't already knackered). Then I'd go is go outside and check the bollard to make sure you actually have mains power and it hasn't tripped. Then check the mains trip switches on the boat to make sure they haven't tripped. Other than that it's difficult to say much without knowing how the system is configuredI. Ifyou do manage to get it up and running then you should be fine even if the batteries are cream-crackered because all your 12v (or 24v?) demands will be indirectly powered by the mains through the battery charger.
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