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blackrose last won the day on August 6 2020

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  1. Yes mine does the same thing, although I never really understood why activity when the charger was sitting on float voltage (like pumps and lights being used), was the criterion for not going through a charge cycle? By the way, on my 3x output charger, for charging 2 banks it's recommended that two of the outputs are linked together and connected to the larger domestic bank while the other output goes to the start battery. I'm not sure if that's the case for all 3x output chargers? Mine is over 15 years old now so things have probably improved but it's worth checking.
  2. The basic features I would be looking for in a new battery charger are battery type selector so that you can set the charger for your particular batteries, in this case charging your flooded lead acid batteries at 14.8v max rather than 14.4v max (which some of the cheaper chargers without battery type selection are set at). Some more sophisticated chargers offer higher desulphation voltages, but 14.8v should be adequate for FLAs if the charger is cycled every so often. The other thing I would be looking for are at least 2 x 12v outputs so that you can charge your domestic and your start battery at the same time. Make sure your domestics and start battery are the same type otherwise you will be overcharging or possibly undercharging one or the other, as the cheaper multiple output chargers tend only to have one battery type selector for all outputs. Hope that makes sense.
  3. I do everything myself; plumbing, electrics, engine servicing, basic carpentry, metal fabrication, painting, etc. The only things I don't do are welding as I never learned how to do that and although I've taken off cylinder heads I've never had to rebuild an engine, but I'm sure I could learn pretty quickly. I have a university degrees, masters degree and a PhD. I take your point Tony, but there are plenty of people who are both academic and practical.
  4. That's obviously a lot cheaper but it's still just converting battery power to heat isn't it, albeit without inverting to mains? Since the engine would be running anyway to avoid draining the batteries I'd say it's better to use byproduct engine heat for heating and a very small amount of battery power for the fan.
  5. I'm not sure exactly where the cold part of the boat is, but if it's at the other end of the boat to the engine then extending the calorifier circuit might be asking a lot of the engine's water pump and would need a heat exchanger and pump. If it's at the same end as the engine then no problem. I fitted one of these heaters to my Webasto central heating circuit recently and it works well. I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well plumbed into the calorifier circuit. Just needs a 12v supply for the fan. https://www.kuranda.co.uk/product/alize-fai/ They've got various models on their website.
  6. Apart from the words "smart charger" in the description I can't see anything in the specs to indicate that this is in fact what most of us would understand as a smart (3 stage) charger which can be left switched on indefinitely charging the batteries. Also the % readout at the top of the picture might actually indicate the opposite! If nothing else appears to be at fault I would get yourself a proper smart charger and a new set of batteries.
  7. Yes, what does that 7.2 amps reduce over time? I think the OP said it was a smart charger but what is the float voltage and amps?
  8. It's funny how so many people ignorantly think the dumping or littering of anything "organic" is ok. The term organic is used as an excuse by those uneducated in the subject. Things may well break down but what do they break down into and how does that affect the biological oxygen demand of the water?
  9. I very much doubt that any boat movement is agitating the sludge in your pump out tank unless perhaps you're out on tidal waters regularly. The truth is that pump out tanks are not easily rinsed of sludge. Whatever comes out comes out and some stays in there even if the owners think they're clean because nothing else is coming out after a rinse.
  10. On my previous vacuum toilet the 3m of Vetus sanitary hose remained full of effluent for nearly 17 years. That's how it was designed to work. The hose never smelled but it was a proper barrier sanitary hose. I wouldn't want to use a cheaper non -barrier hose even if it was thick walled. There's a very easy test you can do to see if odours are coming from a hose. Just wipe a damp cloth over the hose, go outside and smell the cloth.
  11. On the other hand, since they are probably the most common solid fuel stoves found on canal boats one might expect to see more problems reported. I wonder how many Squirrel stones have been used for many years and don't have cracks in the castings?
  12. Ok, but there would be no fiddling around tilting panels. They would just sit on standard fixed fittings on the curved roof. So what difference does physical panel positioning make when it comes to connecting in series or parallel? This is obviously something I hadn't considered.
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