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blackrose

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blackrose last won the day on August 6 2020

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  1. The Webasto installation instructions actually state not to chuck sealants or other additives to the system. Additives Please do not add any additives to the water cooling circuit. The only things that are permitted inside the heaters hot water circuit are : Water and Glycol. Do not add any additives for instance 'leak cures' or other 'plumbing fixes in a bottle'. It’s a pointless exercise fixing symptoms, fix the problem. If you have a leak then you need to fix the leak!
  2. How did you strip it all back last time? It's a lot of work. I would just attack any areas of rust with an angle grinder and wire wheels and leave it at that. You could give any sound paint a key but sandpaper is likely to get clogged with bitumen fairly quickly and new bitumen sticks to old bitumen pretty well without a key so I wouldn't bother. If you're getting the boat out of the water every 2-3 years you should have nothing to worry about. Be careful about using sanding discs below the waterline. You'll get a nice key but you'll also be taking off precious microns of good steel. One thing that can make bitumen last a bit longer (say another year) is a couple of coats of either International Primocon Primer or Jotamastic Vinyguard Primer onto any bare steel around the waterline. Both paints are basically the same stuff - silver, single part underwater primer. It can overlap onto areas of bitmen too, acting as a tie layer. Very easy to apply and quick drying.
  3. Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again.
  4. The coolant level seems to have stabilised and isn't dropping in the header tank now. I think it must have been finding its way into the heater and displacing/slightly compressing the air in there? I'll bleed the heater once it's up and running.
  5. I haven't read every post on this thread so you may have already considered this, but I'd have thought that the noise and vibration could be coming from almost anywhere at the back of the boat. It could even be a mooring stake or hammer laying on the uxter plate or deckboards vibrating on supporting gutters. It's quite difficult to identify exactly where vibrations are emanating from, but if you haven't done it already I'd be removing or isolating every loose object in the engine space and laying deckboards on bits of carpet or underlay to make sure they're not the culprits before thinking about modifying the weedhatch, prop or stern gland.
  6. Yes I do and I have some compression fittings. I see what you mean about the plastic pipe inserts. To be honest I can't remember what type of inserts are in all of those joints. However, they never leaked before over the 4 years I had an Eberspacher connected to the system, but the C/H system hasn't been filled for about 12 years so I knew that if it didn't leak somewhere it would be a minor miracle. I have some compression fittings within easy reach and they are bone dry so hopefully the rest are ok. But I'm sure I've used plastic inserts/compression fittings in my domestic fresh water system and 16 years on they're all still fine. I'm still hoping the antifreeze is displacing air in the heater and that's why the level has fallen - but I may be clutching at straws. It's going to be a pain to get to every joint in the C/H system to check it. The 50% of it that is readily accessible is dry and none of the rads are leaking.
  7. It's still ambient. I haven't started the heater yet. Waiting for a few bits to arrive to finish the fuel line installation. I'll just see if the level continues to fall.
  8. Having looked at some other threads I can see there is no bleed screw on the unit. That does seem odd. Webasto expect you to bleed the heater of air in the coolant lines by either taking off pipes and running the pump or fitting your own bleed valve somewhere near the heater. Why didn't they just design the heater with a simple bleed nipple? Checking the coolant level in my header tank I seem to have lost about a cm overnight. Just wondering if that's air in the heater and pipes being gradually displaced or I've got a leak somewhere? All the C/H rads were well bled yesterday.
  9. I would say no to that part. This is a fire-rated PU foam not a fire-proof foam. This means that the ignition time is retarded compared to standard expanding PU foam, but it can still burn. While I think it's probably unlikely to actually catch fire in situ in your chimney, I do think there's a fair chance that the PU foam could melt and drip down the flue where it could catch fire or alternatively ooze out all over your roof! I don't know what foam the flue manufacturers use in their insulated flues but I suspect it's a more fire resistant grade than Screwfix no-nonsense. Anyway, if i does work and doesn't melt, I think we'd all be interested to know if the new double-skinned insulated chimney improves the performance of the stove.
  10. Jumping on the back of this thread, I've just filled up my C/H system with antifreeze. Does anyone know if there's a coolant bleed screw somewhere on the Thermotop C? I can't see an obvious candidate and there's nothing in the installation manual to guide me.
  11. I don't understand it either, I'm just going by what Webasto recommend and previous threads on this forum. Cuthound certainly found that reducing the antifreeze concentration to 25% allowed the tops of his radiators to get hot, whereas at 50% they didn't.
  12. Did you mix it with tap water? I know hard water contains minerals which can cause scale, but it's a finite amount going into the system. I've read websites which say that distilled water is not correct either and softened water should be used. Edit: Hella actually state that tap water is used. https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Car-cooling-system/Refilling-coolant-2708/
  13. I'll assume it's a 1:1 mix. It seems that most are.
  14. I don't think so. This is all I've got: file:///C:/Users/44786/Downloads/MANNOL Coolant G12+ (2).pdf Edit: The Safety Data Sheet give a bit more composition information: https://sct-online.sct-germany.de/SCTApprovalControl/module/msdsImport/msds_upload_tmp/MN4212_EN.pdf
  15. I'm about to fill my C/H system with Mannol G12+ ready mixed red antifreeze/coolant but the Webasto installation manual states to use no more than a 25% concentration of ethylene glycol. I can't find anything in the technical data sheet which tells me what the mix ratio of this ready mixed antifreeze is. As usual the idiots who write the TDS have forgotten to include one of the most important bits of information for the user. Or perhaps I'm the idiot but I can't see it anywhere? https://www.mannol.de/products/operating-and-service-fluids/antifreeze-and-coolants/mannol-coolant-g12 file:///C:/Users/44786/Downloads/MANNOL Coolant G12+ (1).pdf Should I assume it's a 50/50 mix and water it down by 50%?
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