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blackrose last won the day on January 11

blackrose had the most liked content!

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  1. Ok, I thought they still used natural clay like they used to. If it's a synthetic resin then I can't help thinking it's been misnamed. Anyway, each to their own but I'm never going to use a detailing product to clean the paintwork on my boat or wax it. I'm really not that precious about it. Life's too short.
  2. Clay will be less abrasive then cutting compounds, but it's still abrasive. If it wasn't it wouldn't work. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clay
  3. Ok that's good, we've solved that one then! 😂
  4. I don't really understand how an earth bonded inverter could cause galvanic corrosion since there is no common earth path to shore and other boats or submerged metal?
  5. Switch mode mains appliances can induce interference currents, but it takes a lot of RFI to force a decent spec GI into conduction. About 12 years ago I did a test with ChrisW (remember him?) using his ossiloscope. We had three mobile phones charging, two laptops, two battery chargers and several other appliances running at the same time but we still couldn't get my GI to go into conduction. But if it's a concern then as you say, get an isolation transformer. Then there's absolutely no rub at all.
  6. Shore power has had no ill effects on my boat after 15 years, 99% of the time connected to a land line. How would that guy explain that? Shore power may damage steel hulls of course, but only if it's not correctly isolated.
  7. I appreciate that we're all good at different things, but if he doesn't have a multimeter or understand that he can start his engine with a set of jump leads from the domestic bank; and he has to get his mum to try to sort out the problem and call an electrician, then somehow I doubt it.
  8. I think my Isuzu 55 consumes anything between 1.5 - 4.5 l/h depending on how hard I'm pushing it. On canals, yes only 1.5 l/h.
  9. Yes they did and yes it was, so you might Indeed be surprised. I'm no longer moored anywhere near the Thames so I won't be needing to ask them for an extension to my policy to cover seaward of the barrier. That's a good picture
  10. Yes it was on my widebeam, but is a moored widebeam really exerting that much extra pressure on the fender? It might be, I really don't know? The go kart tyres just seemed too flimsy in compression to me. I'm sure we had discussions on this forum years ago and some narrow boaters said the same thing. But if you stuff the tyres with old rope or something then they'd be fine.
  11. I tried go kart tyres about 10 years ago when I had access to Brunel University's go kart club offcasts, but I found that they compressed far too easily to really be of much use as boat fenders. Better to double up on ordinary car tyres if you need something extra wide.
  12. All you really need is someone to offer to help you. You shouldn't have to pay if you're doing it with them. Just keep them well fed and buy them a few beers afterwards. After doing a couple of locks together you could try one on your own with the other person just looking on and there to jump in if something is starting to go wrong.
  13. I'm sure you're right. I used to see little rust spots on the waterline at about 2 years and leave it another year before reblacking. That was using 4 coats of Rylards. If Ballistic is only good for 2 years what makes it better than any other bitumen based blacking?
  14. Plus the advent of all the other H&S equipment, procedures, training, etc.
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