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    kennet and avon

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  1. You could use helicoils or 'Cross thread inserts' but these are not good if you need to dismantle as they have a tendency to wind out on the threaded screw. A much better product to use in aluminium is called a 'Keensert. Look at Claredon fastener or WDS web site for details or pm me for help. I have used these a lot. They are screwed in and locked with small pegs but you do require enough material around the hole to do this, also the correct taps and drills. Ideally the heater needs to be removed so holes can be drilled and tapped in a machine. May be able to help you with this. PS I have the same heater. Alternatively look on eBay for old defunct heaters and build a good one up.
  2. I had these symptoms last year when the filter became blocked shortly after filling a fairly empty tank. The engine (kubota 1205) would run on tickover and for a short time at 1200 rpm then die. This filter was at about 80hrs. The new filter also blocked quickly so had the tank cleaned, this revealed about 10 litres of water and rubbish in the bottom of the tank despite having always used treatment additives. No trouble since.
  3. Have you got the correct glow plug relay fitted ? They come with a post preheat power to glow plug on function also. This powers the glow plugs after the preheat light turns off for at set amount of time to ensure combustion. If you put a multimeter or lamp between the glow plug and earth you can see when they are powered. An excess time will add a lot of power demand to the charging circuit immediately after startup. The rev counter is driven by voltage from the alternator winding so a slipping belt will show as low speed
  4. A basis for a home brew kit may be the power steering system of an old forklift. Used to have a forklift that had a small oil tank, small hydraulic engine driven hydraulic vane pump, steering wheel with a control valve that was connected to a double ended hydraulic ram about 40mm bore. This was very responsive and should be easy to adapt providing you have some engineering skills
  5. This is a flanged bearing of the 2 piece pressed steel design, common in industry ( cheaper than cast iron type). It takes exactly the same bearing cartridge as others. You just need to know the shaft diameter and the outside diameter to identify a replacement insert. The bad thing about these is that they have no provision for relubricating so the lub hole in the insert will let moisture into the bearing causing early failure. Pm me the shaft size and I can check catalogue for options.
  6. Have it done again, just make sure that the correct size O ring ( imperial 000 series I think from memory) is used and not a metric close size substituted It is very easy to scratch the spindle removing the old seal so a flattened brass brazing rod is best. These gearboxes are well made with only the shaft seals or loose drain plug being your other leakage points. The forward/reverse spindle and output seal are easy to check visually. Input seal with give leakage from the adapter housing. Drain plugs are easy to cross thread or overnighten and hence strip thread. Do not add any magic sealer as the clutch plates rely on the correct oil to prevent slippage and rapid wear
  7. Yes you do incase the integral electronics (12 to 5 v power converter) fails or the whole thing is overloaded. I would fit a 4 amp automotive blade fuse in an inline holder before the switch. Check all the spade sizes as mine all came with less than standard size.
  8. Re machine the bracket after welding. If you have a new arm fitted to the angle it is impossible to keep it flat and parallel with the other bracket. A proper job requires a plate with web welded in place on the angle with a small allowance in position/ thickness so that both the new engine mount pad and the old one on the other end of the angle can be machined over to give a flat surface. All steels distort when welded. The alternator bracket mounted of the side of the angle is going to put a torsional load back onto the bracket that broke in addition to the load from the engine weight. This load is going to be cyclic depending on the alternator output and may be the reason this arm failed 1st A redesign of the bracket,etc so that it has 2 gussets down from the angle to the engine mount plate ( ie wider plate with gusett each end ) would reduce the load on each Gusset
  9. Rather than weld over an existing crack you would be far better to fit a new bracket completely. Welding cracked steel, unless done properly with the cracked area fully veed from both sides, will leave elements of what is a stress failure in the base metal. This will just cause failure in a relatively short period. If you cannot get a replacement from Beta then get a local engineering firm to cut the entire broken part of the angle beam and weld on new pieces of metal. Which ever way you choose to weld/repair this, the 2 mounting faces will need to be machined flat before refitting. If you don't they will be understrees just from being bolted to the engine! Pm me if you want help ( engineer by trade)
  10. You can order the cooker already setup for lpg or purchase one from a calor shop. You will need to change any hose supplied for a certified bss type and secure the cooker to get bss. On this type of cooker the ignition module is usually 240 volt. 12 volt units are readily available but would need to be fitted which would take you out of warranty.
  11. Be aware that 80 ish degrees may not be enough to open the gas shutoff safety valve fitted to the lid. I had to tweak mine on a 500 wide cooker when the lid opened very close to 90 degrees. Used a pivot catch hook from a caravan to hold the lid up.
  12. Just had notification it will be closed for a further week due to cranage error
  13. Some times i get similar problem and have to tap the starter motor hard ( with head of mooring pin) whilst the key is fully turned to start position. Damp has got at the electrical contacts in the solenoid on the starter motor or the pinion is jamming , a n overhaul schedule soon. Have you checked power at the large cable to earth on the starter. Also small cable to earth with the switched turned to start. May be faulty switch or extra relay if one is fitted or just a bad connection if the small terminal is not powered on. You will need multimeter or 12volt lamp to test the above
  14. Spares can be had from Microclutch in Weston Super Mare. They would need the motor plate details.
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