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adrianh

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    engineer
  • Boat Name
    matilda
  • Boat Location
    kennet and avon

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  1. This is a flanged bearing of the 2 piece pressed steel design, common in industry ( cheaper than cast iron type). It takes exactly the same bearing cartridge as others. You just need to know the shaft diameter and the outside diameter to identify a replacement insert. The bad thing about these is that they have no provision for relubricating so the lub hole in the insert will let moisture into the bearing causing early failure. Pm me the shaft size and I can check catalogue for options.
  2. Have it done again, just make sure that the correct size O ring ( imperial 000 series I think from memory) is used and not a metric close size substituted It is very easy to scratch the spindle removing the old seal so a flattened brass brazing rod is best. These gearboxes are well made with only the shaft seals or loose drain plug being your other leakage points. The forward/reverse spindle and output seal are easy to check visually. Input seal with give leakage from the adapter housing. Drain plugs are easy to cross thread or overnighten and hence strip thread. Do not add any magic sealer as the clutch plates rely on the correct oil to prevent slippage and rapid wear
  3. Yes you do incase the integral electronics (12 to 5 v power converter) fails or the whole thing is overloaded. I would fit a 4 amp automotive blade fuse in an inline holder before the switch. Check all the spade sizes as mine all came with less than standard size.
  4. Re machine the bracket after welding. If you have a new arm fitted to the angle it is impossible to keep it flat and parallel with the other bracket. A proper job requires a plate with web welded in place on the angle with a small allowance in position/ thickness so that both the new engine mount pad and the old one on the other end of the angle can be machined over to give a flat surface. All steels distort when welded. The alternator bracket mounted of the side of the angle is going to put a torsional load back onto the bracket that broke in addition to the load from the engine weight. This load is going to be cyclic depending on the alternator output and may be the reason this arm failed 1st A redesign of the bracket,etc so that it has 2 gussets down from the angle to the engine mount plate ( ie wider plate with gusett each end ) would reduce the load on each Gusset
  5. Rather than weld over an existing crack you would be far better to fit a new bracket completely. Welding cracked steel, unless done properly with the cracked area fully veed from both sides, will leave elements of what is a stress failure in the base metal. This will just cause failure in a relatively short period. If you cannot get a replacement from Beta then get a local engineering firm to cut the entire broken part of the angle beam and weld on new pieces of metal. Which ever way you choose to weld/repair this, the 2 mounting faces will need to be machined flat before refitting. If you don't they will be understrees just from being bolted to the engine! Pm me if you want help ( engineer by trade)
  6. You can order the cooker already setup for lpg or purchase one from a calor shop. You will need to change any hose supplied for a certified bss type and secure the cooker to get bss. On this type of cooker the ignition module is usually 240 volt. 12 volt units are readily available but would need to be fitted which would take you out of warranty.
  7. Be aware that 80 ish degrees may not be enough to open the gas shutoff safety valve fitted to the lid. I had to tweak mine on a 500 wide cooker when the lid opened very close to 90 degrees. Used a pivot catch hook from a caravan to hold the lid up.
  8. Just had notification it will be closed for a further week due to cranage error
  9. Some times i get similar problem and have to tap the starter motor hard ( with head of mooring pin) whilst the key is fully turned to start position. Damp has got at the electrical contacts in the solenoid on the starter motor or the pinion is jamming , a n overhaul schedule soon. Have you checked power at the large cable to earth on the starter. Also small cable to earth with the switched turned to start. May be faulty switch or extra relay if one is fitted or just a bad connection if the small terminal is not powered on. You will need multimeter or 12volt lamp to test the above
  10. Spares can be had from Microclutch in Weston Super Mare. They would need the motor plate details.
  11. I have also found that the electronic control unit fitted instead of a centrifugal switch can fail, therefore the start winding does not energize so the motor will only rotate if the fan is spun by flicking. These are common on a Lafert manufactured motor which yours may be, The black box means this is probably a capacitor start, induction run motor.
  12. This is available from RS Components part ref 486-338
  13. I have just replaced the bottom rubber on my similar windows. Material was supplied by a local boat yard and had a Channel Glazing label on it. It was a close match to the original. The other rubbers are 10mm wide X 3 mm thick closed cell self adhesive . The catches are the sort of slide bolt used on old furniture, so try a search for antique cabinet bolts using images on Google.
  14. I have the cointra heater. It is an excellent device and very compact. Runs from 2 type D batteries. Ignites on demand so no wastefull pilot light. Designed for the motorhome/caravan market. Bought from a caravan parts supplier in South Wales, it came with parts to replace a morco . It has past its BSS without question.
  15. You will need to post a picture showing the whole cooler to be sure, but it has the appearance of a Bowman oil cooler. The correct fitting to screw into this should have a parallel thread and use a sealing ring , if you used a taper fitting it will expand and crack the casting ( as shown in your picture! ).
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