Yorkie2

Thanks all for comments, in particular Matty40s, I thought you had come to Saffron and taken a picture of my 'piece of wood variable opening device version 3' which I had made, convergent evolution in practice. In the end I decided I would go for additional stability by having a wider piece of softer material against the brass hatch frame. Now I know the correct word, the collets on our struts are functioning so perhaps I'm not using enough force when tightening the collar. And re gas struts, pictures I've seen of those on hatches has them in a different front to back orientation and I didn't want to put new holes in the old frames yet, and didn't think to use existing fittings. Also worried about the weight, pictures of new hatches seem to have gas struts supporting just the glass opener without any heavy brass frame + window, 0.75kg vs 3kg perhaps ? I'll retain my 'infinitely variable and deformable hatch opener version 4' for the moment, and apply a bit more gorilla force when securing wide open hatches with the brass fixings. I'll share pics of my versions 1-4 next week.

Thanks both - experience counts for a lot, and definitely more than - "it's designed to work this way....". 2 votes for wooden blocks then. I'll put pics of HD foam next week when I've taken some this weekend.

The brass stays (not sure of the right word) that keep the houdini hatches open on our boat, don't do so reliably, and safely. Some photos below, and bear with my 'naming of parts': - the brass rod that fits inside the brass tube is nice and shiny and smooth. - when the collar is tightened, the brass olive does compress into the tube and can hold the strut in position, but only if wide open. It slips if the hatch is any less than about 75' open. - I've 'improved' one of the hatches by roughening the inner rods with some sandpaper, however it is polishing up nicely each time we use it - The hatches are very heavy, and if the struts lose grip, anything in the way of the hatch shutting is likely to get crushed/cut so am keen to optimise them. I'm looking for some advice on how to improve the grip of the collar/olive/tube combination. - If you have a hatch setup like this, have you found/fixed this ? - Do I have the orientation of the olive correct ? its not symmetrical - on all 4 of our struts the compression is provided by the tube, not the collar. - A well known window manufacturer suggested that there should be a small rubber washer somewhere in the collar/olive/tube combination. We tried that with the small selection of washers we had and it was not a success. There v limited room to fit a washer in the space available and it can stop the collar tightening. Changing the hatches is not an option, nor is fitting some gas struts in a different orientation as per the newer hatches on the market. While I wait to see if other fixes crop up, we do have a solution that allows us to have up to about 30' open, some nice high density foam wedges, but it would be nice to know that when the hatch is open wider, it works and it's secure. Thanks in advance.

indeed , and then I'd have to check it anyway.......

righty ho, have eventually sorted the loo seat, and key learning is: something that takes 15 mins on land, takes 4 hours on the boat (opportunity to clean the loo to within an inch of its life) I bought some M5 'toggler' heavy duty toggles, which fit the Vetus seat bolts that go right through the seat/cover mountings and the loo itself. Removing the old toggles was a struggle, rusted and broken, and with reduced access of course. One unscrewed with some force and 3in1, the other toggle disintegrated and luckily the remaining bolt which wasn't moving fitted through the loo. I seated new toggles on some rubber washers, hopefully they will last. potatocam photos here: and a final photo

That's not something I want to do TBH, too many pipes to be careful of, but as a last resort may have to get the marigolds out. I have found some 'heavy duty' toggles, which I hope will work, fitting will be this weekends fun.

Thanks all for comments. Potato cam was the best I could manage given the limited access via the adjacent cupboard and child hand sized access holes, which is the main problem here Iain_S, I'll need some fancy tools and some chewing gum to fix washers and nuts from below. I can see why spring toggle type fixings are used, having no spare child sized hands to squeeze into the behind loo/behind cupboard holes, a spring toggle that folds in when going through the toilet, and springs out when under the porcelain is the likely best/easiest/only way I'll fix the seat back on. I bought some some cheap M5 spring toggles, and while they fit, I think they would only last a couple of years before giving up to rust/structural failure, so I was also thinking stainless bolts as well adrianh, and from some limited trawling of internet, one can buy stainless, or even gold plated, toggle type fixings, which would I guess slow the corrosion on the fixing. So back to boat this weekend, and fit some 'heavy duty' toggle fixings, prob not gold plated 🙂 Y2

Have managed to get these 2 pictures of the spring toggles, the one more rusted/unsound is the loose side. I've tried a couple of wing nuts on the bolt, its defo not M6 nor M4, so if its metric it'll be M5 I hope, which I don't have with me 😞 of course. Will try some local hardware stores and see where I get to this weekend. Y2

I tried just before leaving yesterday but made a hash of it, ill have another go Friday. Y2 Yes the £5 better than £25 or £120 probably would have given a clue as well. It's not a soft close - as we have found out (we've only had the boat a year). But it does stay open when you lift it up. Good point re. pics, I'll try again on Friday. Y2 Ah I think I get the first question now - near the Sculpture Park, so closest to Barnsley, then Wakey, then Hudds. Y2

Our 2004 era Vetus WCS toilet seat is now loose, after checking the attachments it looks like the 'spring toggles' are now rusted through. Firstly, are these really spring toggles, and if so, has anyone had to replace them, and if so, with what ? They seem a bit flimsy for the task in hand, so considering some bolts, washers and rubber seal/cushioning on the porcelain. Finally any idea what size bolt comes thought from the seat hinge ? Else I'll have to wait and measure when back on boat this weekend before visiting the local stores. The other solutions are a new seat from Vetus, £120+, or from local DIY, £25 ish, so would prefer £5 ish for nuts/toggles. Many thanks Y2