Opener

Cable snapped entering a lock near Greenberfield. 6.00pm last Good Friday. "Sorry, I'm in Manchester - be with you asap." 3/4 of an hour. Sorted and left.

What dmr and others have said. I bought a second hand/ripped out unit years ago for the sake of the spares. It had been modified with a manual switch to replace the microswitch. I did the same with mine. Have a fumble just under the black control knob - might just be the microswitch there out of position. But it is operated by a fragile plastic 'finger' which can break off. I've had to replace my self installed master switch a couple of times - not confident about the contacts. BUT, I'm now on my third or fourth ignition box. I'm a fair weather boater and, left alone for too

Not sure how far he would be prepared to travel but try John at Lancs Marine Electrical Services. A few years ago but he sorted me out.

I've got a (removed) one in the garage somewhere but can't lay hands on it at the moment. Not sure why you would need a spare, they are so simple. Two halves bayonet fitted together with a ring of metal mesh between. When blocked, split, wash gauze (you did remember to keep some water back before you turned it of, didn't you?), reassemble and refit. Seemples. As others have said, you are probably better off buying to match the fittings you have rather than trying to match the filter exactly.

I never considered a fixed solution so arguements/advantages were never considered. A man who knows what he is doing - an ex furniture shop prop. made a couple of free standing boxes. Very simple foredeck, single skin all around but with a full cratch so weather not a major issue. Boxes maybe 1metre long by half metre cross section. Sit on low ball feet to keep them clear of the deck and very stable. Solid wood with varnish finish. Long piano hinge on one long edge and down the centre of the lid. Lid folds on itself then folds under gunwhaleto get into box. Edge of lid finished in non sk

Having thought about it further, I was going to say that. The flexible hose referred to goes all the way down to the burner chamber which sits at the very base. Provides perfect access, during out of season, for spiders to access the burner assembly and stop it working correctly.🕷️🕸️🦏

Mine looks like this (in the old photo) appearing to be buried in the roof down to the bottom flange. Boat is 2003 and this fitting appears/could be original, so quite old. If you look through the hole in the pristine one above you can see an inner sleeve which matches up to the tubing in the main unit below - not wholly sure, at this point, but air going in or gasses coming out.

Have a good look at the water reservoir on top of the boiler case. The pump is held in place with the screwed collar and the impellor sits way down in the bottom of the reservoir. A bit difficult to see but is the small space around the impellor clear? A couple of times I've had to remove a load of cr@p from mine - just bought a knickerbocker glory spoon to aid in future cleaning. You may have disturbed a blockage there in moving the pump/topping up and that may recur. I'm guessing a pump stoppage may cause your symptoms.

Of course, that picture raises the question of why a lock is needed there. There doesn't seem to be much different in water levels.....

It's ten years ago now but moved our 'new' boat from Braunston to Burnley via outskirts of Mchester, Bridgewater, Wigan. 60yo, 50yo plus part time son. Wigan Flight unassisted but over two days. Three disabling breakdowns overall but on L&L so accessible to RCR and to local train stations to get home whilst awaiting parts. Have a look at YouTube to see what happens in Leeds when the Aire is in flood -Trent may not be your biggest problem. Just over two weeks of fairly long days but L&L gives easy access to services + shops all along the way - not sure about the other routes. Also poten

Another vote for side/internal steps. Under the top step live mooring pins, ammer, lazy line, similar. Accessible from outside kneeling on the deck. Under the bottom lives tool box and 'engineering' bits. All clean and dry. Steps sit alongside bottom of the bed with a wardrobe/electrics above. Im doobious about even my cruiser stern - had a half flooded engine bay once due to leaves blocking the drain so I wouldn't sleep with external steps as well. (Why not a mesh over external steps over winter to exclude leaves?). I've also got a gas locker to the other side so somewhere to keep the ma

Hmmm! Logical. It's OK for an overfill cutoff to operate while you are filling a tank (car or boat) by hand so that you don't overfill/spill. But you wouldn't want a locked on filler popping/flopping out of your car/boat and flooding a forecourt or the cut with diesel.

Wow! Muchly surprised - is that only on mobile fillers? I'd swear my local static filling station has them on their diesel pumps at least but I usually can't afford to buy that much so can't be certain. I get the point about dispensing more than you can afford to pay for - must remember that one for future use🤔. But would have thought the overtopping tank safety reasons would trump eejuts putting too much in.

...and take a second-hand newspaper with you when you dip the tank. Lay the paper on the deck and lay the graduated stick on the paper (after dipping). Much easier to see the damp patch on the paper - and read off the level against the stick - than seeing which bit of stick is wet/dry, particularly in bright sunlight. Your fuel boat will have an auto-shutoff on their filler hose. They'll stick it securely in the tank and leave it. When the fuel in the tank reaches the end of the hose it blocks the flow and shuts off the pump.

Do you really mean ' perpetual MOTION'? Oops!! Good point......🙄