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truckcab79

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  1. Probably true but let’s get back to admiring this chaps boat build on this thread. 👍
  2. Not your issue. Perfectly valid question. Just doesn’t need to be answered by the usual suspects and their pointless nonsense. Would be a shame to see another decent build thread get ruined with this drivel.
  3. Maybe don’t ruin this guys build thread with another competitive bore-off about the RCR/SOS/ABS/SAS as let’s be honest only two of you care so why not start your own thread on it and you can keep that going for as long as you like. 👍
  4. Very nice. 👍 What’s your insulation? Looks like polyester fleece wadding of some sort.
  5. Caldwell, Wesley Marine, Seals Direct. Lots of options and all very helpful in my experience.
  6. Perfect answer from someone who knows what they’re talking about. Just what the forum needs. Many thanks.
  7. You’d probably do better to walk away from the occasional thread 😂 but as I said I’m not here to compete in some sort of weird knowledge battle with you. That’s just the sort of thing that makes many threads on here go off on a useless tangent. I’ll leave it here because it adds nothing more. Make sure you post a reply to make you feel superior though. 👍😉
  8. I have no need to. I’ll leave the d1ck-swinging desire to answer every post to others on here. I was just answering the original question in so far as there isn’t a missing part and that slot is just a simple frame drain. If I don’t know something, I’d rather not continually post a load of ‘what-ifs’. As I’ve said before I find it best to answer if I know something and to read, learn and say nothing if I don’t. As you’ve asked though, anything is possible, but the work involved in being able to adapt that slot into some sort of useful drain channel unless you have the ability to fabricate and the skill and equipment to TIG weld ali aren’t worth the time involved. I’d either use it as it was intended and accept it doesn’t do much and find another way to deal with condensation, or stump up thousands for modern double glazed units.
  9. Don’t over-complicate this. As I’ve said. It’s just a drain hole. Nothing more. Not a particularly efficient design but it is what it is. Very common design that’s been around forever.
  10. That slot in the frame is just a drain. Designed to let out any water that gets past the glazing seal. They would have had a rubber seal originally and not the mastic / silicone your glass has been fixed in with. If you dismantled it all you’ll find is a hole from the outside into the frame. It doesn’t continue inside and isn’t designed to drain condensation. Or at least only any that gets past the seal. Pretty standard design in any window of this type.
  11. Amazing stuff. Use it for all sorts. In fact as we speak I’ve just mixed some up to repair the minor imperfections in the plastering on the latest bathroom project before I paint. 👍
  12. Covered up the car fillers will be fine. As said, they are porous so can’t be left exposed. in terms of brand Upol easy-1 is decent, and sensibly priced. Evercoat Rage Gold is better. fibreglass fillers are waterproof of course but may not be fine enough for you as a finished surface. You want dolphin glaze for really fine finishing but a bit overkill to be honest. More important is your prep If the rusty spots before applying anything.
  13. Ever wish you’d not asked. 😂
  14. To be honest everyone is just going round in circle saying the same thing now and adding very little. Rivets Thread them (not possible). No room Rivnuts (not possible). No room. Bolts OP Let us know which you go for. Pics always welcome. 👍
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