truckcab79

Probably true but let’s get back to admiring this chaps boat build on this thread. 👍

🥱

Not your issue. Perfectly valid question. Just doesn’t need to be answered by the usual suspects and their pointless nonsense. Would be a shame to see another decent build thread get ruined with this drivel.

Maybe don’t ruin this guys build thread with another competitive bore-off about the RCR/SOS/ABS/SAS as let’s be honest only two of you care so why not start your own thread on it and you can keep that going for as long as you like. 👍

Very nice. 👍 What’s your insulation? Looks like polyester fleece wadding of some sort.

Caldwell, Wesley Marine, Seals Direct. Lots of options and all very helpful in my experience.

Perfect answer from someone who knows what they’re talking about. Just what the forum needs. Many thanks.

You’d probably do better to walk away from the occasional thread 😂 but as I said I’m not here to compete in some sort of weird knowledge battle with you. That’s just the sort of thing that makes many threads on here go off on a useless tangent. I’ll leave it here because it adds nothing more. Make sure you post a reply to make you feel superior though. 👍😉

I have no need to. I’ll leave the d1ck-swinging desire to answer every post to others on here. I was just answering the original question in so far as there isn’t a missing part and that slot is just a simple frame drain. If I don’t know something, I’d rather not continually post a load of ‘what-ifs’. As I’ve said before I find it best to answer if I know something and to read, learn and say nothing if I don’t. As you’ve asked though, anything is possible, but the work involved in being able to adapt that slot into some sort of useful drain channel unless you have the ability to fabricate and the skill and equipment to TIG weld ali aren’t worth the time involved. I’d either use it as it was intended and accept it doesn’t do much and find another way to deal with condensation, or stump up thousands for modern double glazed units.

Don’t over-complicate this. As I’ve said. It’s just a drain hole. Nothing more. Not a particularly efficient design but it is what it is. Very common design that’s been around forever.

That slot in the frame is just a drain. Designed to let out any water that gets past the glazing seal. They would have had a rubber seal originally and not the mastic / silicone your glass has been fixed in with. If you dismantled it all you’ll find is a hole from the outside into the frame. It doesn’t continue inside and isn’t designed to drain condensation. Or at least only any that gets past the seal. Pretty standard design in any window of this type.

Amazing stuff. Use it for all sorts. In fact as we speak I’ve just mixed some up to repair the minor imperfections in the plastering on the latest bathroom project before I paint. 👍

Covered up the car fillers will be fine. As said, they are porous so can’t be left exposed. in terms of brand Upol easy-1 is decent, and sensibly priced. Evercoat Rage Gold is better. fibreglass fillers are waterproof of course but may not be fine enough for you as a finished surface. You want dolphin glaze for really fine finishing but a bit overkill to be honest. More important is your prep If the rusty spots before applying anything.

Ever wish you’d not asked. 😂

To be honest everyone is just going round in circle saying the same thing now and adding very little. Rivets Thread them (not possible). No room Rivnuts (not possible). No room. Bolts OP Let us know which you go for. Pics always welcome. 👍

Worth bearing in mind the OP probably isn’t 5 years old 🙄, and that all you have is an opinion same as the rest of us. He’s already said that some of the holes aren’t full and that they overlap the edge so he can’t tap them. To the OP - Think I said way back that you’re the only person that can determine what method will work best for you. Sounds like you’ve sorted it anyway. 👍 Mine are going back in with rivets for much the same reasons as yours.

Fineline tape. With respect you’re looking at the wrong thing. Perfect line every time. For decorating and bath sealant etc no pro would use tape of any kind, just practice. if you want to tape it and don’t trust yourself for the caulk method then you need to look at vehicle painting and masking products or do your best and then pay a pinstriper to finish your edges. It’s an art form in its own right.

Google ‘masking tape and caulk’ and watch a coupe of the videos. Easier than explaining it.

I bought a tiddly little 12v pump from Halfords. Thinks it’s meant to be a drop-in caravan water pump. Bought it to get the water out of my bilge that the main pump isn’t low enough to clear. It’s brilliant. Less than £15 if I recall.l and about the size of my thumb. Wrapped it in a bit of gauze as a filter and tied it to a bit of 1” overflow pipe. Works a treat.

Same as mine. Only taken two windows out so far and several where they’re a hairs width from the opening and a couple where they break though so half a hole at best. Go with the rivets. They’ll be fine.

The heavy duty long arm one probably. The one I have is actually the lazy tong one. Minimal effort. With either of the long ones though, take it slow as it’s very easy for the head to slip when the rivet shaft snaps. Don’t want it through your window

Same type I’m using on mine though mine are 4.8mm if I recall. If you haven’t got one a lazy tong riveter or a long arm riveter makes it easier on your hands if you have a lot to do in one go.

Apologies for any confusion. It certainly will squeeze out but not in a messy way. It never sets so under the pressure of the fixings it’ll continue to want to move into any void, including out from under the frame. Exactly what you want in a sealant. What it isn’t doing is leaving gaps and voids anywhere as it squeezes out. What squeezes out is easy to pick or roll off. As my windows are old and I uneven I’ll be using butyl. If they were flat and new I’d probably go with neoprene tape. If I wanted them to go down, seal perfectly and never come off again without damage I’d be using Sikaflex. You’re best placed to make this decision yourself knowing what your own windows are like.

10 days on and off boat plus materials £3.5k sounds a bargain. 👍

Discussing this on Facebook currently as it happens as I’ve taken my first two out to restore. I think you have to make a judgement call on your own windows. Mine will be going back in with rivets on butyl tape. Reasoning is that the butyl is more solid and will therefore fill any larger voids more completely than uncompressed neoprene. It it’s quite dense. You’ll have no issue with it squashing out under the pressure of a rivet. Rivet will snap long before that. Profile will make a difference. My frames are slightly domed and will deform if I put too much pressure on them. Flatter profile would mean this isn’t an issue. Feedback from others that have done it is mixed but marginally more recommend butyl as the neoprene has leaked on theirs. In an ideal world I’d tap the sides and use machine screws but the holes are already there and I cant make them any bigger by threading. Some of them are barely in the steel as it is. If I wanted categorically to seal them and never remove them again I’d Sikaflwx them. But I won’t just in case. Rivets will be blind/sealed. Doesn’t make a huge difference but makes sense to eliminate every place water can get in. Incidentally rivet nuts are great but they have a height albeit small which means you’re adding more gap if you use them. Not advisable.