TandC

But each deck board when down is supported on all four edges, so I'd expect it disperses even if standing with all weight in one foot directly above the centre of a channel beneath (as per if stepping onto that channel itself minus board) ...

Thanks - sort of, but not really - I tend to remove all the deck boards (x3, which sit on top of 4 channels running lengthways: One under far left edge, middle left, middle right, far right edge). With no deckboards, when doing maintenance etc - I do frequently step on the two in the middle sections and it isn't really doable to avoid that. I'm not 15 stone yet! But, still feels a bit "bouncy"... could swap the two at the edges as they don't get walked on directly without deckboards and just clean up and retain the two central steel ones. This saves a bit of work, saves a bit of unnecessary weight, and I can report back in 26 years on the corrosion!

Thanks - this is what I was expecting... it's a bit thicker gauge but not a lot. It is free, but requires a fair drive to collect so probably not worth pursuing.

Pleased to report that Lancashire Rotating Electricals LTD did a top job on my starter motor - refurbishment was £180 with postage, but replaced the solenoid, the pinion gear and gave it a general tidy up. All reinstalled and while I've not had time to really test it, she started up fine and dandy. Thanks for the suggestions and assistance, and a thumbs up to LRE for their service.

I need to remove and refurbish the steel channel sections which support my deckboards and which currently provide a less-than-ideal drainage arrangement. I have the option of some aluminium U-section channel which is the same dimension as the steel - measuring 3" (76mm) wide x 1.5" (38mm) deep 1/4" (6mm thick). I don't have any further detail on what sort of grade it is so let's assume it is nothing special (not architectural grade or wotnot) The deckboards sit on those four channels, each channel is 63" (1.6m) long, supported each end in steel sockets. They are supposed to drain rainwater, so are orientated with the open side to the channel upwards. There are two load scenarios - the first is with the deckboards down, spreading weight across those four channels (plus some support at the ends) The second is a simple standing weight on one of those channels when the deckboards are up, to access the engine. Potentially that could be my full weight on one foot in the centre (weakest unspported point) of the channel. I have found various deflection tables online but they are totally baffling so I was after any experience/common sense response around this as an idea.... too weak? strong enough? If i had the channel in hand I would be able to do my own engineering test (i.e. stick it on a couple of blocks at the right measurements and stand on it a bit) - but i don't and i wanted a sense of whether it would be strong enough before going to get it.... any ideas?

Ah well that requires a feat of considerable flexibility and three elbows🙃. I shall certainly have a go at it but it's so constrained what with the drainage / deck joist steels and battery boxes. I can work on some stretches while waiting for the motor!

I did think they look a little worn... Marine Engine Services quote about 300 quid with the vat and postage which is a lot to swallow, although likely a genuine Lucas replacement Lancashire will quote for refurbishment on receipt of the original so I think I'll go that route. Courier it up there and see what they say. As for the starter ring... how do you get to it to check condition of the teeth or file any burrs...? Presumably it would require stripping it all down which is beyond me at this stage unless it's really that straightforward. I

Morning all, My starter has finally given up the ghost. Can anyone advise on the correct rotation for the replacement I should be looking for? The Lister SR2 engine serial number is 2919SR218 (13hp, 2000 rpm). On the cast section of the starter, there is a serial number 542 55 997L - there are a series of XXXXX stamped into the casing of the motor windings case. When looking online, this website provided example photos of the pinion gear and describe the slanting of the bevel on the front of the teeth as the way of telling if the rotation is clockwise or counter-clockwise. https://www.obbstartersandalternators.com/what-is-the-rotation-of-my-starter-motor-obb-starters-a-130.html I've attached a photo of the pinion on my starter - from the website above it appears that this is a counter-clockwise, but is that correct? If there are any experts on here I'd be grateful for a steer on the right model to purchase. Currently a quick search of a eBay shows £126 for anti-clockwise: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184248732701?hash=item2ae6148c1d:g:UdsAAOSwPa9dpJYw £140 for clockwise: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373801381205?hash=item57084c6d55:g:9a0AAOSwNdFcwgFu I've not had a chance to look much further than that as would like to pin down exactly what rotation it is. Thanks a lot,

17mm was measured across the flats with a vernier gauge and a 17mm spanner fitted tightly. Thanks re. Other points made. All good extra specs to build into the design and check with the manufacturer. Agree re. A degree of translucent material would indeed make it easier than my current piece of notched aluminum DIY dipstick.... An inspection hatch wasnt something I'd considered as the current one doesnt have one and I've never found a need to peer in... but itd be easy enough to have one designed in and accessible as required if thems the regs now. Dont see the point of a drain. Just disconnect the engine supply line and drain from there. Need to take some further advice on how it can be fixed in place. Yhe current steel one is sat on the swim and spot welded in, with the filler and breather tubes also solid steel welded, and so they're going to be replaced with the appropriate grade hose. As such, it needs a suitable fixing system. Lots of options and I'll be getting the boat yard to do the welding etc so they can manage that. The intent is to be able to remove if periodically as required so I can better keep the engine bay clean and painted.

Evening all. I'm replacing my existing steel diesel tank with a plastic one and am drawing up some plans to get quotes for a bespoke tank. 1) I've emailed TekTanks but wondered if anyone has experience of other manufacturers of bespoke tanks I could approach for quotes 2) I want it to be a straight swap for the fuel supply and return hoses from my Lister SR2 engine. I am not sure what size fittings they are.... The main supply currently goes into a standard 1/2" lever ball valve so that's easy enough to match. The diesel return from the engine is a smaller hose with fitting. Measuring across the flats of the union nut its 17mm. Not sure if anyone could advise on the likely thread size that would be? I presume it's something standard, I just dont know what standard that would be with such fuel fittings?? Thanks for any advice. TandC

Ah yes it was that second aspect I was referring to. I wonder if that is what explains why the boat I refer to has a BSSC. What a bloody minefield with zero consistency between the approaches and advice that the professionals are able to give.

That's what I thought, thanks David. Am I right in that point about that if you have a bubble-tester it negates the requirement for a Gas Safe inspector to still be able to achieve a BSSC?

Thanks for the original question and the answer - I was thinking about this myself. Is there anything in the Boat Safety Certificate about this sort of setup that would preclude it? I have seen a boat with just this arrangement, reliant upon turning the boiler off post-cruise - and it has a BSS certificate just issued. Presumably if it were inspected by a Gas Safe engineer it wouldn't pass for that reason - if they were able to tell/took the time to investigate the supply. But, if the boat had a gas bubble tester, then no Gas Safe inspection would be necessary - just a BSSC inspection. Hence the situation as to why a boat with this arrangement is by the inspection/certification requirements okay - even if not by the common sense/safety standard. Thoughts on that?

I'm midway through a re-paint (you can thank me for the wind and rain arrival) - popped over to Midland Swindlers in Braunston today to pick up some final tins of International TopLak so I can get finished, and because I see that they are on special offer - down to £22 a tin. They had barely any stock - fortunately two last tins of the red I needed - but not a blue. When asking if any more would be delivered, the assistant told me that the reason it is on special offer is because this formulation is to be discontinued due to the environmental impacts, now only to be available to professional boat painters not the general public. A new, "amateur friendly" formulation is to follow, to minimise environmental impact. Anyway, not sure whether that is new news, true news, or fake news, but thought I'd share. Anyway - quick question, seeing as the rain has stalled my progress - I'm overpainting my roof having sanded out some areas of cracked paint under duck poos.... there is a solid base of adhered primer/undercoat/topcoats which has been sanded down to 400gt. I have then given that spot primer where required, then a full coat of undercoat, and a full coat of 50/50 undercoat/Toplac. That was on Sunday - then the rain came. Possible window of dry weather tomorrow - so may get a coat on.... If give that a hand sand - can I get away with using ScotchBrite maroon pads to give it a good key - or should I be using 400gt or even lower to ensure a good adhearance? Ta

sooo.... at the risk of dragging this on! If you consider the particular situation / limitations: Large, easily accessible cruiserstern engine bay No water-cooling infrastructure (skin tank etc) No real opportunity to adjust ballast Solar limited by roof size to around 350w Battery bank limited to around x4 110amphr batteries (although if weight is saved - could be increased) Liveaboard - but probably relatively limited cruising compared to many Why would a serial arrangement not be worth exploring? Air-cooled diesel generator - running an electric motor. Even if you didn't have a huge solar array, or a massive battery bank to allow maximum cruising off the batteries - why would that arrangement be so unfeasible? Wouldn't running a diesel generator to generate the propulsion energy (electric ) be not dis-similar to just running a Lister? Is that a really really inefficient way to use them (as in, as the sole power source, rather than supplementing shore-charge/solar charge). Is a generator, motor, whatever electric control wizardy - THAT much more expensive than the costs of acquiring a new water-called engine, installing it (and the construction of a skin-tank) plus the hospital silencer arrangement etc. Even if buying a recon BMC engine from Calcutt Boats, that's still going to cost a weighty few bob to have the skin tank constructed etc. How much is a diesel generator... a cooling radiator... a BellMarine motor... potentially additional batteries... control kit.... ? I promise I shall leave now....!