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booke23

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  1. The 2ft guidance was from years ago, although funny how it still persists......it used to be shallow, but that whole section of canal was completely rebuilt in the 1980's after a couple of major breaches. Concrete trough design so about 4ft deep from edge to edge, assuming no sand bars have formed over the years, but still slow going in the narrows due to the flow.
  2. Funny you should mention that. I installed under cupboard LED strip lights units (proper enclosed things, not cheap strips from ebay) in the kitchen about 8 years ago, and with an advertised 50,000 hour life I thought I'd never have to touch them again. Well 2 years ago one failed requiring total replacement and 6 months ago another one failed. Replacement wasn't cheap and I wish I installed T4 fluorescent lights instead.
  3. On my Beta it seems 50/50 if the engine stops in the wrong position to use that pump. Even freeing the pump and bleeding the fuel filter by the book I still sometimes get a small bubble of air in the fuel injection system.....enough to stop the engine but not so much that cranking won't clear it.
  4. True, although the recommendations here only go back as far as the 1980's, where VHF/FM was the norm. It's also worth noting that pre 1980, even radios that had VHF didn't cover the full FM band that we use today (originally 88.1-97.6mhz)....radios only went to 100mhz (or sometimes 104mhz). It was only in the 1980's that the band was gradually expanded to 108mhz and radios sold from 1980 onwards could generally go up to 108mhz. It's a bit of a shame about the demise of MW and LW. There's still a lot of stuff on SW from all over the world.
  5. Yes these days all the old British brands (Bush,Roberts etc) are not what they used to be.
  6. I collect such radios myself and while it’s possible to buy a new radio which appears to be a simple FM/MW/LW/SW, they are all generally faux analog these days, and actually have a digital computerised tuning chip which I think is inferior. So I can’t recommend a new one. I have a few Grundigs from the 80’s…..Yachtboy 206 and a 217 as well as a Realistic DX-350 which are all ok for travel but the audio quality is not ideal for home use. I have a Sony ICF-SW600 from about 1995 and that is sublime. Highly recommended if you can find one on ebay. They are quite rare but not that expensive when they do come up.
  7. It's perfectly good advice if you know what you're doing, but in this case the OP stated he wasn't good with engines and was CCing. If he took the filter off and didn't know how to bleed it he would have ended up with a non running engine, possibly moored in a remote location. ie with an even bigger problem than he originally had. Turns out he's ok with engines having managed to remove the filter, check the O ring and replace and bleed it. He should do his own servicing in future! I always run engines after replacing the fuel filter....often the engine stops after 5 minutes or so as it only takes the smallest bubble of air in the system to cause a stoppage. The engine normally starts again with a bit of cranking but the middle of the cut, or approaching a lock is not the place to find the air bubble.
  8. Good....You're not that bad with engines then! To be safe, run the engine at 1200rpm for 30 mins or so before you do any cruising in case there is any air in the system that might stop the engine.
  9. Not good advice for someone who knows little about engines. I say tighten it and see if it makes a difference, if not get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it.
  10. That's the biggest clue. The fuel filter probably wasn't screwed on tight enough. Give it a wipe with kitchen roll and grip it as hard as you can and turn the black canister clockwise to tighten it. When I do a service I prefer to nip up filters with a strap wrench to prevent this kind of thing.
  11. As someone who both bought and also sold a boat recently, I'd say while it does no harm to have a survey done before selling, it's basically a waste of money. In my experience, any boats on the market that do have a survey have had it as a requirement of the previous owners insurance or have had it as a result of a recently fallen through sale. Buyers minded to have a survey know that they need to commission their own survey to guarantee non bias, so will pay little attention to an existing survey. Nah, on this forum only a few dozen will see it!
  12. As 500 litres has lasted you 2 years, that's just under 5 litres a week. So one 20 litre jerry can a month (on average) is all you need which is not too much of a hardship if you decide to shop around garages in your area. If they ask you to fill in a form asking what you're using it for, heating is a legitimate reason.
  13. I've considered this question myself in recent times and it is certainly cheaper to burn smokeless coal per kw/h of output. As mentioned coal has a much higher output per kg. The government have done some heat output tests and the results indicate kiln dried wood is about 2.5 times more expensive per kw/h compared to smokeless coal. The only way it's cheaper is if you can get free wood.
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