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TandC

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Everything posted by TandC

  1. But each deck board when down is supported on all four edges, so I'd expect it disperses even if standing with all weight in one foot directly above the centre of a channel beneath (as per if stepping onto that channel itself minus board) ...
  2. Thanks - sort of, but not really - I tend to remove all the deck boards (x3, which sit on top of 4 channels running lengthways: One under far left edge, middle left, middle right, far right edge). With no deckboards, when doing maintenance etc - I do frequently step on the two in the middle sections and it isn't really doable to avoid that. I'm not 15 stone yet! But, still feels a bit "bouncy"... could swap the two at the edges as they don't get walked on directly without deckboards and just clean up and retain the two central steel ones. This saves a bit of work, saves a bit of unnecessary weight, and I can report back in 26 years on the corrosion!
  3. Thanks - this is what I was expecting... it's a bit thicker gauge but not a lot. It is free, but requires a fair drive to collect so probably not worth pursuing.
  4. Pleased to report that Lancashire Rotating Electricals LTD did a top job on my starter motor - refurbishment was £180 with postage, but replaced the solenoid, the pinion gear and gave it a general tidy up. All reinstalled and while I've not had time to really test it, she started up fine and dandy. Thanks for the suggestions and assistance, and a thumbs up to LRE for their service.
  5. I need to remove and refurbish the steel channel sections which support my deckboards and which currently provide a less-than-ideal drainage arrangement. I have the option of some aluminium U-section channel which is the same dimension as the steel - measuring 3" (76mm) wide x 1.5" (38mm) deep 1/4" (6mm thick). I don't have any further detail on what sort of grade it is so let's assume it is nothing special (not architectural grade or wotnot) The deckboards sit on those four channels, each channel is 63" (1.6m) long, supported each end in steel sockets. They are supposed to drain rainwater, so are orientated with the open side to the channel upwards. There are two load scenarios - the first is with the deckboards down, spreading weight across those four channels (plus some support at the ends) The second is a simple standing weight on one of those channels when the deckboards are up, to access the engine. Potentially that could be my full weight on one foot in the centre (weakest unspported point) of the channel. I have found various deflection tables online but they are totally baffling so I was after any experience/common sense response around this as an idea.... too weak? strong enough? If i had the channel in hand I would be able to do my own engineering test (i.e. stick it on a couple of blocks at the right measurements and stand on it a bit) - but i don't and i wanted a sense of whether it would be strong enough before going to get it.... any ideas?
  6. Ah well that requires a feat of considerable flexibility and three elbows🙃. I shall certainly have a go at it but it's so constrained what with the drainage / deck joist steels and battery boxes. I can work on some stretches while waiting for the motor!
  7. I did think they look a little worn... Marine Engine Services quote about 300 quid with the vat and postage which is a lot to swallow, although likely a genuine Lucas replacement Lancashire will quote for refurbishment on receipt of the original so I think I'll go that route. Courier it up there and see what they say. As for the starter ring... how do you get to it to check condition of the teeth or file any burrs...? Presumably it would require stripping it all down which is beyond me at this stage unless it's really that straightforward. I
  8. Morning all, My starter has finally given up the ghost. Can anyone advise on the correct rotation for the replacement I should be looking for? The Lister SR2 engine serial number is 2919SR218 (13hp, 2000 rpm). On the cast section of the starter, there is a serial number 542 55 997L - there are a series of XXXXX stamped into the casing of the motor windings case. When looking online, this website provided example photos of the pinion gear and describe the slanting of the bevel on the front of the teeth as the way of telling if the rotation is clockwise or counter-clockwise. https://www.obbstartersandalternators.com/what-is-the-rotation-of-my-starter-motor-obb-starters-a-130.html I've attached a photo of the pinion on my starter - from the website above it appears that this is a counter-clockwise, but is that correct? If there are any experts on here I'd be grateful for a steer on the right model to purchase. Currently a quick search of a eBay shows £126 for anti-clockwise: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184248732701?hash=item2ae6148c1d:g:UdsAAOSwPa9dpJYw £140 for clockwise: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373801381205?hash=item57084c6d55:g:9a0AAOSwNdFcwgFu I've not had a chance to look much further than that as would like to pin down exactly what rotation it is. Thanks a lot,
  9. 17mm was measured across the flats with a vernier gauge and a 17mm spanner fitted tightly. Thanks re. Other points made. All good extra specs to build into the design and check with the manufacturer. Agree re. A degree of translucent material would indeed make it easier than my current piece of notched aluminum DIY dipstick.... An inspection hatch wasnt something I'd considered as the current one doesnt have one and I've never found a need to peer in... but itd be easy enough to have one designed in and accessible as required if thems the regs now. Dont see the point of a drain. Just disconnect the engine supply line and drain from there. Need to take some further advice on how it can be fixed in place. Yhe current steel one is sat on the swim and spot welded in, with the filler and breather tubes also solid steel welded, and so they're going to be replaced with the appropriate grade hose. As such, it needs a suitable fixing system. Lots of options and I'll be getting the boat yard to do the welding etc so they can manage that. The intent is to be able to remove if periodically as required so I can better keep the engine bay clean and painted.
  10. Evening all. I'm replacing my existing steel diesel tank with a plastic one and am drawing up some plans to get quotes for a bespoke tank. 1) I've emailed TekTanks but wondered if anyone has experience of other manufacturers of bespoke tanks I could approach for quotes 2) I want it to be a straight swap for the fuel supply and return hoses from my Lister SR2 engine. I am not sure what size fittings they are.... The main supply currently goes into a standard 1/2" lever ball valve so that's easy enough to match. The diesel return from the engine is a smaller hose with fitting. Measuring across the flats of the union nut its 17mm. Not sure if anyone could advise on the likely thread size that would be? I presume it's something standard, I just dont know what standard that would be with such fuel fittings?? Thanks for any advice. TandC
  11. Ah yes it was that second aspect I was referring to. I wonder if that is what explains why the boat I refer to has a BSSC. What a bloody minefield with zero consistency between the approaches and advice that the professionals are able to give.
  12. That's what I thought, thanks David. Am I right in that point about that if you have a bubble-tester it negates the requirement for a Gas Safe inspector to still be able to achieve a BSSC?
  13. Thanks for the original question and the answer - I was thinking about this myself. Is there anything in the Boat Safety Certificate about this sort of setup that would preclude it? I have seen a boat with just this arrangement, reliant upon turning the boiler off post-cruise - and it has a BSS certificate just issued. Presumably if it were inspected by a Gas Safe engineer it wouldn't pass for that reason - if they were able to tell/took the time to investigate the supply. But, if the boat had a gas bubble tester, then no Gas Safe inspection would be necessary - just a BSSC inspection. Hence the situation as to why a boat with this arrangement is by the inspection/certification requirements okay - even if not by the common sense/safety standard. Thoughts on that?
  14. I'm midway through a re-paint (you can thank me for the wind and rain arrival) - popped over to Midland Swindlers in Braunston today to pick up some final tins of International TopLak so I can get finished, and because I see that they are on special offer - down to £22 a tin. They had barely any stock - fortunately two last tins of the red I needed - but not a blue. When asking if any more would be delivered, the assistant told me that the reason it is on special offer is because this formulation is to be discontinued due to the environmental impacts, now only to be available to professional boat painters not the general public. A new, "amateur friendly" formulation is to follow, to minimise environmental impact. Anyway, not sure whether that is new news, true news, or fake news, but thought I'd share. Anyway - quick question, seeing as the rain has stalled my progress - I'm overpainting my roof having sanded out some areas of cracked paint under duck poos.... there is a solid base of adhered primer/undercoat/topcoats which has been sanded down to 400gt. I have then given that spot primer where required, then a full coat of undercoat, and a full coat of 50/50 undercoat/Toplac. That was on Sunday - then the rain came. Possible window of dry weather tomorrow - so may get a coat on.... If give that a hand sand - can I get away with using ScotchBrite maroon pads to give it a good key - or should I be using 400gt or even lower to ensure a good adhearance? Ta
  15. sooo.... at the risk of dragging this on! If you consider the particular situation / limitations: Large, easily accessible cruiserstern engine bay No water-cooling infrastructure (skin tank etc) No real opportunity to adjust ballast Solar limited by roof size to around 350w Battery bank limited to around x4 110amphr batteries (although if weight is saved - could be increased) Liveaboard - but probably relatively limited cruising compared to many Why would a serial arrangement not be worth exploring? Air-cooled diesel generator - running an electric motor. Even if you didn't have a huge solar array, or a massive battery bank to allow maximum cruising off the batteries - why would that arrangement be so unfeasible? Wouldn't running a diesel generator to generate the propulsion energy (electric ) be not dis-similar to just running a Lister? Is that a really really inefficient way to use them (as in, as the sole power source, rather than supplementing shore-charge/solar charge). Is a generator, motor, whatever electric control wizardy - THAT much more expensive than the costs of acquiring a new water-called engine, installing it (and the construction of a skin-tank) plus the hospital silencer arrangement etc. Even if buying a recon BMC engine from Calcutt Boats, that's still going to cost a weighty few bob to have the skin tank constructed etc. How much is a diesel generator... a cooling radiator... a BellMarine motor... potentially additional batteries... control kit.... ? I promise I shall leave now....!
  16. haha! And then you find one of these on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fischer-panda-agt-4000-12v-/274348225282?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIvs3_oYTb8gIVc4BQBh3A4wZ3EAQYASABEgK-BPD_BwE I guess the good thing about a Lister is that they last long enough to ensure you go deaf before they break
  17. I wouldn't say that I'm not... but I am conscious of the limitations on the boat and I am not sure of the arrangements. A hybrid engine is out - too expensive. What is involved in your system? Does it require any water-cooled components to install? Or is it something that could be installed in an engine bay... no need for skin tank etc? How does your diesel generator perform alongside a modern water-cooled engine.... ? Is it a ridiculous idea to consider convert to a serial electric motor, when the maximum capacity would be say 660amp hours of batteries (weight/space in engine bay is the limiting factor)? I'd not even be that fussed about long periods of only-electric silent running. If the diesel generator was quiet enough, why not just use it as an alternative to achieve a quieter propulsion? I mean, if you're going to power the boat using a filthy inefficient diesel Lister engine, why not use a diesel generator to run an electric motor? That had been my original train of thought when I opened this can of worms!!
  18. HybridMarine just replied very promptly to my "how long is a piece of string" question around conversion costs: They quote around £30,000, depending on the battery choices potentially more... and that is without installation. So - how much to convert to a modern water-cooled engine, with hospital silencer....? 10 - 15k? The boat is our liveaboard, has been for 15 years so it'd be a wrench to part with it - and getting a new boat, with all the work associated with getting it to our fit-out requirements etc is no small task and would be v. expensive. Hence me considering swapping the engine - although it does seem ridiculous. I expect we shall just soldier on!
  19. All good comments. The hybrid marine system has an appeal - but is unlikely really feasible or economical. I'd be interested to find out their costs... The main issue at present really is the noise - making the cruising experience less of a chore. I've done everything to try and soundproof the engine, the bay, the deckboards, etc and it's a game of diminishing returns. So if we are really serious, it's probably most likely to look at replacement engines - and that's probably up to £10k with fitting i guess. The other issue is weight - we'd need to replace with a system weighing no more than, or the same as, a Lister SR2 with 440amphrs of batteries... anything more than that would mean doing a fair amount of work with the fitout to access the existing ballast and removing etc. So, as we all know... we'll stick our fingers in our ears and get on with the bloody Lister!!
  20. Anyone got one of those Fisher Panda diesel generator / electric motor arrangements? After another season of being deafened by the roaring sound, choked by the diesel fumes, and underwhelmed by the lack of any sort of power when needed, I again find myself thinking evil thoughts about the Lister SR2 under our large cruiserstern deck. It's been utterly reliable for 15 years of our ownership (and the 60 years onboard prior to that) - but having a quieter, cleaner option would be very attractive. I just wonder what the costs are - are they still so expensive as to make it un-economical? Is running a diesel generator to power an electric motor a pointless exercise? Far cheaper to look into a replacement diesel engine/gearbox and run a hospital silencer etc...? Just pondering....
  21. Thanks James - from a quick google that one looks only 50cm wide and that would leave a big gap, plus reduced size oven etc - so while I'm grateful for the recommendation I am not sure it'll fit. I'm also not sure what the situation is with converting a mains gas one to LPG - there seem to be lots of conversion kits, a set of jets for oven/hobs, which would be fine but I've read conflicting advice on whether they can all be converted. There are Zanussi ones which would do if they can be converted Thanks - i had looked at these. I'd be happy to convert them if it's possible - just a case of changing the jets i think? - but not sure if this is doable
  22. I'm after any recommendations as to where to find a 55cm wide freestanding gas cooker - hob, grill, oven. Sodding typical in that the original New World model 55TWLG is no longer available and I built the kitchen to its 55cm width. There seems hardly any 55cm models - some Zanussi ones but they have an electric grill which is no good to us. Any ideas? Require 55cm width - gas oven, gas grill and x 4 hobs all with the required flame failure devices etc...
  23. Hello all, I have a slight weep of diesel from the fuel lift pump on my Lister SR2. From the pump itself it states "Made in England: Type D". It's hard to tell if there is a gasket fail between the body of the pump and where it mounts to the engine, or if there is a gasket horizontally within the body of the lift pump itself. Anyone have any experience of these - any recommendations on addressing the problem? Is it a full new pump time? Gasket change? Are there any common issues.... Thanks, Tim
  24. We made our pram hood and cratch cover around 11 years ago and while it is looking a bit tatty now. It is up at least 8 months of the year and I've only bothered to clean the fabric a couple of times, despite that we live under two big Ash trees and all their residents (with assorted bowel problems!). Only now am I considering replacing the cratch as the plywood triangle is shot and is an opportunity to increase the height a little. We also made a "Sports canopy" a couple of years back - a cover for the back deck that doesnt use poles that we can take away when we're cruising - not so good for storage etc, but keeps the rain off the deck and out the engine bay (old cruiser stern, rubbish drainage arrangement). I don't think it cost more than £300 - 400 for both Acorn Canvas were really helpful - not sure if he is still trading though? Bought the canvas and folding edge-binding from him and I think also the plastic window material. You can also get the eyelets, turnbuckles, etc Stainless steel tube can be bought from any decent steel stockholder / fabricator. I bought appropriate stainless fittings online, yacht places etc have them - they slot onto the steel tubes and can be affixed with a screw or I just used a rivet. There are various arrangements using quick-release pins to slot the tube socket ends into, screwed to the boat permanently. I measured and drew out the tube shapes onto a plywood guide and used an industrial conduit pipe bender to get them to shape - stainless is HARD so have your Weetabix. I made three slightly different sized "n" shapes, each leg has a a socket fitting, they go into a fitting secured permanently on the roof handrail and the seat structure around the sterndeck. Small hoop on roof, largest hoop in the middle, slightly smaller hoop at the back to create the tent-like ridge. I bought black webbing tape with hooks and fittings off eBay - two lengths run from the seat up and over the tops of the hoops - they have quick-snap poppers on, with the corresponding riveted onto the top of the tubes. It allows me to "raise" and "lower" the two large hoops and the webbing extends forward down the line of the boat and hooks into an eyelet further down the handrail. Sewing machine - we went through i guess 6 layers of canvas. I used a good quality brand (Husquavarna - i mean, they make chainsaws!) but it is just a domestic machine - no problems at all. Don't worry about being told you need an industrial machine - I didn't find it an issue. Man-handling all the material around and through the machine body can be a pain, but even on a domestic that is doable. Be wary of the canvas capacity to stretch - particularly if you use long, continuous runs - ours is constructed of probably 4m single length - but that stretched over the first few months and created sagging. That's where the professionals really come into their own: A high quality tight fit - no sags, no puddles, no leaks. . I had to remedy this by using an additional support rib made of ply that just slots in on top of the tubes and takes out that slack in the fabric. It has served the test of time - over 10 years, still serviceable and no leaks. Totally changed the cruiser-stern from a water-logged liability into a place to store things and hang coats, shoes etc. It can look a little "saggy" in places, but I take that over the cost. We used the window material and while a rear screen on the back deck cover does mean that it is always light in there, i'm not sure i'd bother with the cratch again. The two large windows i sewed in just look dirty all the time and it's a faff to make. A professional will get you a high quality finish, no sags, it won't leak - but there is a reason they cost as much as they do, not only the skills and experience, but it is a seriously time-consuming job!
  25. oh god..i can't believe I'm going to continue this on... so what would be the easiest way to obtain an accurate state of charge meter?? Just seems if one is going to the effort of maximising the solar charge capacity, I should probably try and have a way of knowing how it is performing and when our demands are outstripping supply. Ideally something that can be read from a panel, rather than requiring a phone app etc.....?
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