Onewheeler

We use them at home for dimmable standard lamps on a separate circuit to stop someone plugging something inappropriate in.

Statistically nonsense. Consider the hypothetical example that 80% of the population score 1 on some arbitrary scale of intelligence and 20% score 0. The average score is 0.8 and most of the population score higher than the average.

https://www.parts-express.com/Data/Default/Images/Catalog/Original/092-027_HR_0.jpg

XLR connectors. There is (sort of) a wiring standard for 24V and they're good for up to 15 A if you pick the right ones.

I think the costs mentioned might be a bit on the high side. I had the prop replaced, a new taper machined on the shaft and stern gland repacked with change from £1000. No, the stern gland was repacked with the proper stuff, not bank notes. Doesn't include dry docking as we had the blacking done at the same time. About 8 years ago so add a bit for inflation.

I used a metre of flue, two 45 degree bends back to back and a short stub to go through the collar. I think it gives about 120 mm offset.

Don't know about the BMC 1.5, but a Beta 38 was pretty much a drop-in replacement for our BMC1.8. The gearbox housing fitted, it just needed a new drive plate and some tweaks to the engine mounts.

I've slightly lost the plot but that is a raw water cooled engine, probably direct as I can't see an intermediate hx. Was it isolated and drained before the first frost?...

Have you a bleed tap at the top of the skin tank? Oil floats so take out as much as you can there, top up the water, repeat, run engine to stir it up, etc. You'll get most of it out that way.

You'll ideally need an anti-surge circuit if fitting a big transformer. Otherwise connecting the shore power at the wrong part of the phase will give rise to a whopping big input current and trip the MCB. Happens to us about one in five connects so not a big deal to go out and reset it. Some transformers designed for marine use have circuitry fitted. Add-ons are available.

My Vauxhall Viva gave a very loud clunk and whirr once when starting it. A delve under the bonnet revealed that the starter motor had fallen off and hit the ground.

It may be possible to dismantle the solenoid and clean the contacts. That sorted our old BMC when it was clicking.

Yes, that's a possibility. I had at the back of my mind the thought of a sensor poked down a fill plug hole into the plates!

I'm not familiar with your charge controller but I'd assume that one sensor should monitor casing temperature and the other ambient. Where have you put your sensors?

Are they hot to the touch or is it just the sensor saying they're hot?