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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. I’ve got a Whale fresh water pump model FW1214B installed last year. After having some work done at a marina the attached strainer now spits a squirt of water each time the tap is turned off. taking the top off and replacing stops it for a bit but it soon starts again. There is no O ring and my first thought is that there should be, and that the mechanic managed to lose it. Has anyone experienced this problem? Should there be an o ring? The manual is useless on this point. regards Tim
  2. Marvellous! That’s just the application I had in mind. many thanks
  3. Does anyone have experience of the cheap £20-30 manual bilge pumps offered on eBay and by some chandlers? I need to buy a manual pump and these are about half the price of a 2nd hand Whale, but do they do the job?
  4. In the unlikely event that anyone is still attached to this thread: I saw Lothbury Lady appearing out of the Harecastle Tunnel a couple of weeks ago. She is now part of the Heritage hire fleet based at Sherborne wharf on the Macclesfield.
  5. badgerbag

    What is it?

    Ah, thanks. The sight gauge shows a couple of inches of presumably water, (no sign of antifreeze). The only way I can see to top it up would be via the air vent, does that sound remotely likely?
  6. badgerbag

    What is it?

    Can anyone help identify this for me please? The large bore pipe at the top goes to an air vent, and it’s connected at the bottom to the pipework coming from the calorifier. But what does the small bore pipe on the front do?
  7. Many thanks everyone. Sounds like it could be my over vigorous shaking that’s to blame. (Thanks Roger) I’ll have a go at fixing them, but if it doesn’t work it’s not the end of the world.
  8. Hi, it’s a C200. I’ve not noticed anything in the cassettes, but I’ll have a proper next time I empty one. Cheers.
  9. The “bog full” light on our Thetford has stopped working. Not a huge problem, one can always look down the hole, but useful when there are “elsan virgins” aboard. The fuse is ok, wires still attached, nothing useful in the manual. Does anyone know what makes it work? I was expecting to find a microswitch triggered by the weight of the cassette but it must use something else.
  10. Many thanks for the suggestions. I’m not sure about the pick up pipe, I shall try and check . Does anyone know if under all the spray foam I might find some sort of access to the tank? Can anyone help with the location of the tank vent? I can’t find it. The boat is a Les Allen with the water tank under the well deck.
  11. I’ve cleaned the strainer, there was hardly anything in it. I even swopped the pump for a spare but it made no difference. So I guess it’s off with the panelling to check the hose. many thanks
  12. After the accumulator pressure is exhausted our water slows to not much more than a trickle. The problem seems to be in the supply to the pump, and I’m wondering if when refilling after winter I stirred up enough sediment to partially block the tank outlet. The tank, under the well deck, is accessible from inside the boat but is covered in spray foam, so I can’t see if there is anyway to gain access for cleaning. The only option I can think of is to disconnect the pump, attach a hose to the supply side and try and reverse flush the system, but if anyone has any other ideas I would be very grateful.
  13. Mea culpa! To return to "prolonging battery life" What is best practice following winterizing? Running the pump to empty the water tank will deplete the batteries. In the past I've left it to the solar recharge them, but listening to what has been said here maybe that's not such a good idea. Can I run the engine with no water in the calorifier? or would it be better to: Charge the batteries from the shore line, and rely on the solar to keep them charged over the winter? or even: Take them home and charge them once a week/month? over the winter?
  14. From the OP. Thanks for all the input. To answer the questions: The engine is an FR2, with a huge pulley on the front end of the crankshaft. The boat is 20+ years old so I'm sure any issues relating to pulley ratios would have been sorted before now. The engine does need to be buzzed a bit before the charge light goes out, but once out it stays out, and as the light goes out and one can see the needles on the volt meters flick up to 14v (ish). The alternator output readings were taken from the Smartgauge, with a coat thrown over the solar panel, and have been the same in the 4 years that we have had the boat. If I need to give these batteries an equalisation charge can I use a car type battery charger connected to a shore line? And if so do I have to disconnect the batteries first, as we used to do when we had to charge car batteries periodically during the winter, or is it sufficient to isolate them at the switch? Can anyone explain the issue with the Smartgauge? I must admit that I bought it under the impression that it was going to tell me when the batteries were charged, to avoid running the engine unnessarily. Am I right in thinking that if, for example, in the morning before starting the engine the Smartgauge is showing say, 50% capacity on the batteries but 13V on the voltmeter, the the solar is providing something like 0.9V Many thanks
  15. Can anyone help shed some light on what might be going on with my electrical system? I would appreciate any suggestions. I've one alternator, one starter and 2 domestic batteries. There is also a Sunstore solar panel of unknown output, which on a good day will keep the fridge going. Before we set off the 2, 125A/h DC31 MF domestic batteries died and I replaced them with 2 M110s FLAs, because that’s what the local chandlers had in stock, and we wanted to get going. We were out for 6 weeks, from the 1st of June to the middle of July, the longest, and this year the sunniest of the year. We averaged 4-5 hours cruising most days, and on “rest days” we ran the engine so that the batteries (according to the Smart gauge and the magic eyes on the batteries) were always at 100% at about 4-5 o'clock. The alternator was showing about 13.8v on startup and 14.2v at the end of the day, and as the starter battery was always full I assume the alternator is ok. During the whole trip we used no lights or watched any TV so that the only load on the batteries was the fridge (on lowest setting and new 2 years ago) and the water pump, (replaced this year). For the first week the Smartguage was indicating at least 80% capacity remaining in the mornings, but this soon fell to, and remained around 65%, and on a couple of occasions fell as low as 56% I know that it was very hot during those weeks, the boat has an engine room and a Lister so things did get pretty warm, and the fridge would have been working hard, I also realise that by fitting the M110s I've reduced the capacity of the battery bank by 30 a/h, but does it sound feasible that just running a fridge overnight would use 40% of the battery capacity? If that is the case we are going to have problems when we go out later in the year and have to use lights in the evenings, and who knows we might even want to watch the telly!
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