Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


33 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    nr Norton Junction
  • Boat Name
    Country Dreams
  • Boat Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks all. Went a bit postal with the tape today whilst it was fine, just to see if I could stop the drips. Posts here have made me realise that the tape (Gorilla waterproof tape) would not neccessarily stop leaks, I was hopeful it might reduce the drips. Rain this afternoon caused the same level of drippage, hwich makes me think (thanks Tony Brooks) that my arrangement of chimney and inner chimney might be the problem. Next time it rains, my plan is to not light a fire, remove the chimney and put a cap on the flue collar, which, hopefully should tell me if the rain is getting down the chimney - at which point I wal ask about sealing the flue in the collar on the inside. Reading other posts about leaks, it seems that even small cracks in filler / rust patches on the roof can cause a lot of water to enter through the roof. I think I have been naive about this and need to deal with every possible entry (when the weather improves) Used Captain Tolley's around windows and mushrooms and I could smell it in the water that eventually made itsway to the cabin bilge. Either the crack was bigger than it could deal with or it needs more applications. Thank you to all who posted (blackrose - I know I should have started at the point you mention, but to be honest there seem to be a million jobs that take priority - until it rains. I appreciate the advice though). I learn a lot even though i tend to get the general feeling that I am making very obvious errors
  2. It is a steel boat with a steel roof. I don't think condensation would cause this - or rather it concides with rainfall and the heavier the rain, the heavier the dripping. There is the stub of a radio aerial on the opposite side of the roof which, even though I have taped over it, there seems to be wetness beneath it (I can feel through a hole in the lining to feel this). I will have to put more tape on this until it stops to see if this is causing the dripping onto the stove. flue is in good nick - only a year or so old and no sign of corrosion The roof collar is pretty much covered - no guarantee 100% covered but pretty sure
  3. Hello without going into huge detail, I have rain (I think) still entering the boat from somewhere. I spent most of the Summer searching for the leak and sealing what I can. Still coming in from somwhere, so I have taped every possible entry point on the roof and windows as temporary measure. Whether this is a good plan or not I don't care to be honest, i've pretty much lost patience with it. Anyway, that is background really, the issue is that when there is rain, water spits onto the hot stove surface from somewhere on the ceiling collar and i jsut can't figure how it's getting in. I have a double chimney and a top hat - I don't get, if the rain is coming down the chimney, how it transfers to the outside of the flue - it must be getting through the roof somewhere else and running to the flue is all I've got, but I can't see where from. Has anyone else had this sort of problem, and what did it turn out to be please?
  4. Jonathan, Spuyten, thank you for your replies. I found the battery holder after your post Spuyten, thank you. It was annoyingly obvious when I Knew where to look 😀 I was convinced I had gone over every inch of the blasted thing with no luck. Anyway, battery fitted and all working. I still think that the manual is appalling, with no mention of the battery, or how to replace it. After going through every nook and cranny of this cooker, I have to say, despite it working fine, for the not inconsiderable amount of money i paid, it is rather cheaply put together. I suppose limited production runs and a relatively captive market helps push the price up - moan over Thanks again
  5. Thanks for the reply David. Yes, the model I bought was the battery ignition one.
  6. Don't laugh, but I've had the cooker for a while and haven't used the oven yet, just the hob! My issue is two fold - first, I can't figure out where to put the batteries for the ignition knob (have been using a flexible neck light for the hob) Second, I can't figure out where to light the oven with the lighter thingy - ideally I suppose \I would use the ignition button, but, as I say, I can't figure out where to put the batteries. I have got the grill to light, but that's a bit more obvious. I'm happy to use the lighter for the oven - and, of course, it's useful to know where to apply the flame if the batteries die - but should at least know \i can use the ignition button. The manual is useless, and there seems to very little information, other than the manual, online. You would think it would be in the manual, but no. Any help would be gratefully received
  7. Thankyou all - hugely grateful to all of your suggestions. I may well try just screwing into the wood frame Tony, then Insert Nuts if it starts to be an issue. I would use magnets but I am not sure whether they would be strong enough to maintain a good seal as they have to contend with a curved ceiling - I am fairly sure the frame also curves with the ceiling rather than being built level (if you see what I mean). I hear what you are saying about acrylic cracking Jen - hadn't really considered that. I think thick-ish rubber washers may well help Bit puzzled why Screwfix didn't come up with the Insert Nuts and the link from Hudds Lad as Screwfix obviously stock these items. I am going to guess that I clearly need to work on my explanation skills rather than blaming Screwfix. Thanks again. Yet another reason why this forum is a fantastic resource, particularly to novices 😀 Thanks Chris with the magnetic strip suggestion - again, I'm not sure it will deal with the curvature. I will be using this sort of thing on the windows though.
  8. I want to fit acrylic sheet to cover the frame of the Houdini hatch but need suggestions for fittings. As I only really want it for 6 months of the year, I don't think screwing straight into the frame would do it much good if the screw was taken out and put back in a lot (admittedly only a couple of times per year). I am hoping there is something like a threaded tube that stays in the wooden frame permanently and a screw/bolt with a domed washer can fit into that - but I have no idea what that might be called. I did try explaining it to someone at Screwfix, but got a bit of blank look. Any suggestions please? Thanks
  9. My stove's roof collar on the outside of the boat is letting in some water when there is heavy rain. The join is a bit tatty and rusty. After clearing and treating the rust, the plan is to run a bead of silicone then paint with Hammerite or similar. Don't know if I can use any old silicone or do I have to use something special, so wondered if anyone could recommend a brand of black silicone sealant for this purpose. Thanks
  10. The base plate was neither inspected nor blacked last year - I don't think the base plate has ever been blacked. The hull survey that was done out of the water a year before I bought the boat, of which i have a copy, does not show any problems with baseplate. I'm not saying that it couldn't have developed some between now and then, but I have to narrow things down. To be honest, I'm at my wits end with this. After the torrential rain the other day, there was no real increase in the amount coming through to the cabin bilge. The colour of the water (I have to stress that it is a very small amount that sits there now) is a rusty brown colour so I'm assuming it is getting near the end of the water that is percolating through. I just don't seem to be able to narrow down the cause - it may be more than one of course and very small amounts that accumulate. Also the fact that there is historic damage to the flooring above the bilge may be a red herring - any water will collect there and what may have caused this in the past may have been rectified. From what I have been able to find out, this seems unlikely knowing how the previous owner seems to have maintained it (no disrespect intended to said owner)
  11. I'll be complete honest and say that not every inch of the pipework has been checked - mainly because it's a pig to get to - but I have made the assumption about the pressurised system being OK. The outlets seem to be alright but need to get the lining off to be 100% sure - again, difficult behind sinks particularly. I haven't checked the cold water tank between the tank and the pump - had a good grope round and doesn't feel wet, damp-ish but not wet. Getting too it is tricky but on the list. Doesn't seem to be any correlation between filling the tank and getting water in the bilge though. Hull is 28 years old and was out for blacking last year.
  12. I thought the PRV would pass water if the calorifier got too hot. There is no expansion tank on the system at present, so not sure what's faulty about the PRV - not saying it's not, the system is a bit Heath-Robinson Due to be piped overboard via a skin fitting when the boatyard can get to it - jobs are backed up at present. Pump only kicks in (for about a second every half hour or so) when the immersion is turned off and the calorifier cools. When it has cooled the pump does not operate so assume the pressurised system is not at fault
  13. Thanks Slim. I pumped about one and a half wet vacs full this morning. The level has, until today, remained fairly low with maybe a very slow build up that I assumed was water percolating through the ballast - paving slabs like yours - which I would pump out every couple of days or so. Figured it would take a while to all come through. This morning though, there was a noticeable increase in depth which made me think it might be rain, as there has been a lot of it the last couple of days. Checked the prv - all draining fine into its container.
  14. Trad with a long back deck (counter?). Engine bilge is dry, now I have piped the calorifier PRV into a container, and has been for a while now. There is a bulkhead under the floor between the cabin and engine bilges (chap told me it's called a stank - not sure whether he's winding me up!) Front well deck drains through holes at deck level and are clear. A couple of of the portholes have rust patches around them - one in particular has quite a lot around it. Inside, at this porthole, the cabin side t&g seems to have lost contact with the wood bearer(s). Taking off the inner liner, it is about 1 cm away from where it seems it should be. The hull on the inside around this porthole shows rust, but everything this morning (after a night's heavy rain) was bone dry - puzzled Appears to be just surface rust, but to be sure I probably need to take the portholes out? The possible exception is the one I mentioned in my previous reply to you
  15. Thanks Ditchcrawler. There are some rust patches around some of the windows and the paintwork on the roof is a bit tatty. Would these be most likely to be the point of entry (i suppose that's a bit of an obvious question)?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.