blackrose

Making a boat look occupied is one strategy to avoid unwanted attention, but it only takes a knock on a window from an unscrupulous boater with some excuse to completely nullify that plan. And then of course the fact that you've tried to make the boat look occupied will only convince the would be thief that the boat contains something worth stealing and is worth breaking into - much like an external padlock!

I understood it. Punctuation wouldn't help clarify your questions.

As the boat is currently out of the water, if you're really interested then I think it would be worth getting a hull survey. You can check the rest yourself and run the outboard In a garden water butt. You save a little bit because the boat is already out of the water and a small boat like that shouldn't cost more than about say £400 just for a hull survey. Others can correct that figure it it's wrong. But if it needs extensive replating/overplating be prepared to walk away!

What does "throw it back" actually mean? I don't think it would stand up in a small claims court. Surely caveat emptor applies and the seller could just claim they were unaware of the defect? Perhaps throw it back just means you could go back to the seller and say "You told me there was nothing wrong with it!" For what that's worth!

Blimey 14ft 9! And they keep telling me that my 12ft widebeam is too big! I'd like to see such a vessel north of Berko just to witness how angry all the narrowboaters got.🤣

I went to the Ricky festival once about 25 years ago when I had mooring there. After that I avoided it. Too many crusties.

Are those gas bottles sitting there above an open hull? 🤔

But if there was a substantial voltage leak to earth wouldn't that be hazardous?

On my old GI which had 2 pairs of diodes and went into conduction at 2.4v, the manufacturer recommended testing with a 9v battery across the terminals which would force the diodes into circuit. However that GI had a led status monitor which would illuminate. I thought the equivalent test on a multimeter was the diode test but could be wrong If I had an unknown GI I'd just swap it for something better or get an IT

I don't quite understand this. With the shoreline unplugged which it should be before any test is performed, then where does the voltage that is being measured across the GI terminals/diodes come from? The DC volts setting on a multimeter doesn't put a voltage into a circuit does it? Sorry if I'm being thick.

I didn't know they were. Can I ask which type of water pump are you referring to in your title. Fresh water/domestic pump, engine water pump, etc?

Securing sliding hatch and side doors. Bolts are welded onto the inside of sliding hatch cover on each side. On the side doors I used stainless 12mm dome headed bolts through the doors.

I'm 2013 I was taking my boat from Reading to Bristol during a spate of boat break-ins at the eastern end of the K &A. W. Berks Police had even dotted notices to that effect along the towpath but I had to leave my boat for a week so that I could go back to work. My boat is fairly difficult to break into: all portholes, internal locking bolts into the steel runners on the sliding hatch, and internal locking bars on the side doors. It also has all steel doors at bow and stern. Contrary to most of the advice the bow doors are locked with an external padlock. One of these welded on. I don't really buy this stuff about keeping them guessing whether someone is aboard or not. If a burglar wants to know if someone is home on a boat (without an external padlock) they can just knock on the boat with an excuse if someone comes out. I've left my boat all over the place and never had a problem. The point is that if you must have an external padlock make it a big f@ck off padlock that the casual burglar doesn't want to deal with. Most boat break ins are committed by opportunists who carry nothing more than a large screwdriver to lever hasps out of wooden door frames. Professional burglars stick to houses where the pickings are richer. An opportunist boat burglar might look at my boat and see that nobody is home, but they'll go to the next boat which is easier to break into. The other people who break into boats are other lowlife boaters of course. They may carry more tools. About 25 years ago I met a guy who left his boat on the towpath hundreds of yards from any road access between Kings Langley and Hemel for about a week. When he returned he found his engine, gearbox and solid fuel stove had been nicked! I went onto his boat, couldn't believe it. I made sure I could lock my deck boards on this boat. The other thing I won't have are canopies or cratch covers. They just hiding places which invite burglars in so they can take their time in figuring out how to get in.

The magnets could be used to stick the extinguisher to an engine room bulkhead perhaps instead of using the holder. Can't think of any other reason.

Also you don't have to take it for walks.

Makes one wonder why they didn't go for portholes if it's such an issue?

And it seems like everyone else means that too! 😊

As far as I'm concerned the top plank is the angled part under the gunwales. The bit you walk on is the gunwale. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunwale On a narrowboat or canal boat, the gunwale is synonymous with the side deck- a narrow ledge running the full length of the craft.

On the gunwales you need a non-slip paint. Gunwales don't get scraped? Perhaps you mean the top plank under the gunwales?

Good point. Interdependent systems on boats can be a bad idea. It's possible to live without many things... A boat for example.

Most PRVs are 3 bar aren't they? So as long as the cut out pressure of the new pump isn't more than 40psi you should be fine.

No problem. You should get some fittings with the new jabsco. You'll have to adjust your accumulator, assuming you have one, after fitting the new pump