Kendorr

Have you watched Journey with Jono on youtube? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JW-v8PNx2C4 You've obviously looked into it in a lot of detail, his video's may give you a bit more info.

Thanks Paul, and everyone else who has responded with advice, all very useful 🙂 Kevin

I bought it from Newark boat jumble last year. I knew the boat build was about to start and I was doing my best with my limited knowledge to spread the cost over a longish period. It's only when I've fitted it that I realised that the pump and the calorifier are not totally compatible. It could well be that the best way to go will be to discard the pump and buy a less powerful one. With hindsight, I could have left buying the pump 'till after the calorifier, alternatively, I could have made sure that the calorifier could take the 3.1 bar given out by this pump. As this is the first boat I've fitted out from scratch, I'm making mistakes, learning lots and enjoying the challenge, but if I start from scratch again, I'll make sure to buy a more suitable make and / or model, depending on what there is on the market at that time.

So, something like this? https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/whale-inline-pressure-switch

It is adjustable, and I will drop the pressure a bit, thanks. Using what I've got and my somewhat limited knowledge, I've got it working. I will look into the pressure switch and see if I can figure it all out. Thanks to everyone for the advice 🙂 Kevin

Thanks folks, I've fitted the pressure reduction valve which is set to 3 bar and it's working perfectly. Just ran the engine for 20 minutes and I now have hot water for the first time. Once I wire in the immersion heater, I should be set for the winter 🙂 Kevin

Thanks rusty, I've actually got one and am ready to fit it, but for .1 bar, I'm wondering if there's something I can do without adding another gizmo into the circuit.

I've been installing the above pump, unfortunately it has a working pressure of 3.1 bar, my calorifier has a pressure relief valve rated at 3 bar, consequently this consistently goes off and tries to fill the engine bay with water. Question, can I reduce the pressure at the pump? I can find no information, although I'm told it can be done. Thanks folks Kevin

It was something he asked this morning while we were out cycling. Because of the space, he would be using bottled gas and fitting a boiler into the loft space of the garage. Last year he used about £150 worth of coal and is thinking that gas would be cheaper. I mentioned a widebeam because his garage inside is a similar size. It is sounding like it will be more expensive and possibly not as warm. I'll pass this info to him, then it's his decision. Thanks again.

Thanks folks, you've reinforced what I thought, but just wanted to get some other views. Yep, he is thinking of bottled gas, the garage is too far from the house to connect to the supply.

A friend uses a wood burning stove to heat a quite large garage. He's wondering about changing for calor gas central heating. Question - does anyone have gas central heating on their widebeam and are live aboards and could give an indication of how much gas would be used over a 6 month period from now 'till April? I personally think this will be a big problem for him, but would like any advice from people who do this on their boat. Thanks - Kevin

Click and collect is from an Argos store - you choose which one you would like to pick it up from. Whenever I buy, I check if click and collect is available, saves waiting in.

From what you have, any of them is better than nothing. If you can get water resistant pva, water it down to 75% pva and 25% water and give the edges a couple of good soakings, leaving 24 hours for it to dry. It will prolong the life, but as cuthound says, it won't fully protect it.

Haven't had the time to do much of a build blog, the paintwork is coming on well though.

https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/notice/13340/leeds-and-liverpool-canal According to this, the entire canal is still closed.