Poppin

I recently posted about getting a proper washing machine on board. Well I went for the Hotpoint top loader that cruising the cut recently got! I have my new washing machine up and running. Plumbed it into both hot and cold feeds via a simple mixer valve. Works well, except for proper drainage! Basically when I run a wash it reaches the end of the program and does a spin. This finishes but instead of ending it starts another spin, and another and another... Until I reset the machine. Now, I am fairly certain this is because the machine senses a tiny bit of water left that it can't drain out, despite the drum itself being empty. I think this because the machine will end a spin cycle no problem as long as I empty the remaining water from the filter hatch. But once it has run a wash cycle again and taken water in, it goes back to repeating spins forever trying to get the last of the water out. I think this is because of the drainage hose, but I am not very experienced with washing machines. The hull outlet hole I am using is at the right height, approximately 80 cm above floor. I am sharing this outlet hole with the kitchen sink, using a Y hose splittler and an in-line non return piece for the washing machine waste. But currently the drain hose comes out of the bottom of the machine and stays low, doing several ups and downs before eventually leaving the boat at its highest point. From what I've now read, you are supposed to immediately have the hose raise to a high point behind the machine, and then slightly drop to the outlet. Would this solve my issue? I'm guessing I have a bit of water constantly falling back down into the machine. Why wouldn't machines be fitted with non return as standard anyway?! Any experience or advice MOST welcome!

I have decided to install the washing machine in the kitchen area and tap into both hot and cot supplies under the sink. Before the washing machine I will install either a thermostatic mixing valve or a simpler mixer valve. The down sides to the thermostatic valve are, as I see it: 1. limits temperature to around 45 degrees max (I cannot find one that goes above this) 2. They act unpredictably regarding flow rate if the calorifier happens to be too cold to reach the set temperature 3. more expensive. My preference is to use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CM6515V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 However I would still like to know the rough temperature of the water going in. I cannot seem to find a valve with a simple thermometer that I could install on the outlet of the mixer. Any suggestions? The closest I can find is this but seems to be the wrong size; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-UNDERFLOOR-HEATING-MANIFOLD-BALL-VALVE-WITH-THERMOMETER-RED-BLUE-HANDLE-/142571866682 and these seems to be unreliable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clip-pipe-thermometer-hot-water/dp/B00GYV0L5I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549146929&sr=8-5&keywords=pipe+thermometer

I have decided to install the washing machine in the kitchen area and tap into both hot and cot supplies under the sink. Before the washing machine I will install either a thermostatic mixing valve or a simpler mixer valve. The down sides to the thermostatic valve are, as I see it: 1. limits temperature to around 45 degrees max (I cannot find one that goes above this) 2. They act unpredictably regarding flow rate if the calorifier happens to be too cold to reach the set temperature 3. more expensive. My preference is to use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CM6515V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 However I would still like to know the rough temperature of the water going in. I cannot seem to find a valve with a simple thermometer that I could install on the outlet of the mixer. Any suggestions? The closest I can find is this but seems to be the wrong size; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-UNDERFLOOR-HEATING-MANIFOLD-BALL-VALVE-WITH-THERMOMETER-RED-BLUE-HANDLE-/142571866682 and these seems to be unreliable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clip-pipe-thermometer-hot-water/dp/B00GYV0L5I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549146929&sr=8-5&keywords=pipe+thermometer

I'm going with the hotpoint, I managed to pick one up for a bargain price so I'll put the extra money into a pure sine wave inverter I think, I've wanted one for a while anyway as current inverter heats things up! I wan't to be able to switch the water feed from hot to cold, whats the best way to do this? So far the only valves I can find for washing machine input hoses are compression tee valves for 15mm pipe. I guess I could tap into both hot and cold lines near the sink with a couple of simple speedfit tee, but I'd need some kind of tap piece for them both to go into, between those and the washing machine hose. Anyone have this set up? Not sure what to look for.

Having just seen the video posted previously about Cruising the Cut using a new Hotpoint machine, I'm now quite tempted by this idea. Cheaper than the smaller machines and can handle a lot more. I just wish I could find some info on average amount of litres used per average wash

This is exactly the scanerio I was thinking of getting. How much did you pay for the new candy? I'm seeing around £450. I was going to plumb this directly into the hot water as well. Do you just tell the machine to do a cold wash and it has no issues with the hot being fed in? I was concerned it would sense the hot and refuse to work or something. I'm guessing it doesn't need that 1.5kw when plumbed into the hot water? That's only when it's heating element engages right? Also our inverter is an old sterling modified sine wave, I'm guessing you have a pure sine wave? This is exactly the scanerio I was thinking of getting. How much did you pay for the new candy? I'm seeing around £450. I was going to plumb this directly into the hot water as well. Do you just tell the machine to do a cold wash and it has no issues with the hot being fed in? I was concerned it would sense the hot and refuse to work or something. I'm guessing it doesn't need that 1.5kw when plumbed into the hot water? That's only when it's heating element engages right? Also our inverter is an old sterling modified sine wave, I'm guessing you have a pure sine wave? This is exactly the scanerio I was thinking of getting. How much did you pay for the new candy? I'm seeing around £450. I was going to plumb this directly into the hot water as well. Do you just tell the machine to do a cold wash and it has no issues with the hot being fed in? I was concerned it would sense the hot and refuse to work or something. I'm guessing it doesn't need that 1.5kw when plumbed into the hot water? That's only when it's heating element engages right? Also our inverter is an old sterling modified sine wave, I'm guessing you have a pure sine wave?

Who has a fully automatic washing machine on board? (not a twin tub). I'm trying to figure out if I can run a small or top-loading one just with engine running a 120A alternator and 2000W inverter. I know that they use a lot of power but presumably that is the heating element. I've heard about people disconnecting the heating element or just running a cold wash, but feeding the machine direct from the calorifier to save power. any advice or descriptions of your setups most welcome!

Just to put this to bed... I changed the belt to a slightly more suitable one, and slightly repositioned the alternator. All seems fine. This is the 120A alternator with standard V-pulley I'm using: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CANAL-BOAT-ALTERNATOR-HIGH-OUTPUT-120-AMP-A127i-TYPE/181430420788?epid=1260748483&hash=item2a3e188534:g:dhIAAOSwEeFVGmf9:rk:1:pf:0 Now, it seems that neither the engine pulleys nor the alternator have notches, so the fact that my engine has had a cogged belt since we got it seems strange. The new belt that had trouble had smaller coggs, whereas the one I'm using now has larger coggs and small spaces in between the coggs (making it is closer to a standard V-belt). I'll be picking up a standard v-belt soon. Though it does seem that with this belt, and the new positoning, I'm getting more amps with no screeching, even at high revs. Thanks all for advice! edit: I've just read that you can used cogged belts in standard V-pulleys, so perhaps I'll leave it.

It is a single v belt. So I would need to change the pulleys to use a poly multi v belt? Because the grooves need to correspond between belt and pulley?

I recently installed a new 120A alternator on my BMC 1.8. it was overheating and screeching at high revs so I had it replaced by the seller and just installed the replacement and changed the belt while I was at it. Curiously, the belt itself is screeching when I first start the engine, but within say 5 minutes, all sounds normal. The alternator puts out more amps as these minutes go by, so it would seem the noise goes away as more load is applied, but I'm not sure. What else could make the noise disappear with time? Heated up rubber? I've noticed that spraying the belt with water while running also makes the noise go for a couple of seconds. Once the noise has gone, after a bit of running, no amount of revs makes it return. Been running daily for about a week now and I've just taken a closer look. The belt is wearing fast and the some of the underside grooves are completely gone! Turned to powder if the mess on my engine pulley is aby indicator. What do you guys reckon? Wrong belt or something out of alignment?

I'm thinking the aerator in the tap is also reducing flow. Removing it however leaves me with a narrow jet (it's a pull out tap with Flexi hose inside). Is there such a thing as a high flow aerator that would basically allow the pumps capacity through? Like 11 litres/min. Can't find this anywhere, highest seems to be 7 litres/min.

I changed down to a Jabsco parmax 2.9, solved the issue. Flow rate was too great for my pipes. Now onto the next issue, the prefilter before the kitchen sink is reducing water pressure a bit too much, what would happen if I put a small accumilator between the filter and the tap, would that not improve pressure?

All of these things causing cycling when the taps are closed and the pump is supposed to be not in use. My problem is specific to the flow of the kitchen sink only. When the cold tap is open, the pump cycles on and off causing a pulsating flow. I naturally thought this was a blockage, until i changed the tap and got the same problem as of the second try.

can confirm its not the aerator, I removed it and still pump is cycling.

But if it is an aerator or small feed pipes, why would it work without issue for the first few minutes? The aerator clearly isn't blocked, its a new tap and behaves like the old one.