Poppin

The rads get hot so I'm wondering if this is it. Is there an easy solution?

The thing is, it worked fine a year ago... not sure why it's happening. Yes in series, how else can it be done?

What I'm asking is where the usable water is plumbed into the system. I have a hot water tank that is heated by the webasto, but it takes ages to heat fully. Would it be appropriate to have the output from the hot tank enter into the input of this unit, to be heated before supplying the boats hot taps? I don't think the exchanger would make the webasto cycle, it would be the first thing heater in the system before the coolant goes on to the calorifier and 5 rads. Yes once the tank gets up to temp, this unit would heat already hot water, but I cannot see it getting ridiculously hot in the course of a few hours webasto running

Our thermo top C is taking too long to heat the hot water tank. I think it used to be better, but who knows, maybe not! I'm considering one of these 90 plate heat exchanger units that are designed to be plumbed into the system. As far as I can tell, these act as a mini radiator that instantly heats hot water that passes through it. However I cannot find clear installation notes or videos online. Can somone clarify how they work and where they are installed exactly? My webasto system is a closed, pressurised system with 5 radiators and a hot water tank (twin calorifier). Does this get plumbed into the system as another radiator, with the hot water tank output coming into this plate unit and exiting to the boat's hot supply? This would mean that water is always at least a bit hot, and then very hot once the tank has caught up?

Haha. This forum always makes me smile... If you must know, we are on a mooring around Bath and rarely move since having kids. The boat is very tall and the view from the roof is cracking.

I'm building a roof deck for the wide-beam. Best thing I can think of is simply to order 20+ 3 meter long deck boards and to lay them with spacers across the roof, either side screwed into a length of treated timber that reaches 10cm high. This accounts for the curvature of the roof so the centre of the boards should rest on the roof itself. Then I will use leftover timber turned sideways to 5cm high to add additional support beams towards the centre. Is there a better approach?

Could I not install a second Ccumilator tank after the filters?

Ah I see, and I suppose the filters would last twice as long. Still, space concerns...

What do you mean by in parallel?

Hoping someone can advise on water pressure issue. I have a 45psi whale water pump with accumulator. I have recently installed a triple filter after the pump, which is part of a wider system for the filtering of canal water. The triple filter has caused a pressure drop significant enough to cause a delay in the pump activating. I will attempt to adjust the pressure switch, bit since the cut out is fixed to 0.6 bar from the cut in, I am guessing my problems will continue. Can anyone advise on ideas?

Can anyone clarify bss requirements for low-level ventilation? Can't understand it from the document. Is it required or just reccoemnded to have a certain amount of low level ventilation? Or is it just a certain amount of overall ventilation, with whatever amount of low level ventilation is practicable? The boat builder left me with some unused vents in the shell on the widebeam, and I'm wondering if all of these need to be ducted down to ground level, one in particular would be easier to leave unused.

Saw a fairly nice narrowboat yesterday I am thinking of buying. I was wondering what the issue was and then asked "oh, when was she last blacked". 2014. Such a shame seeing as the boat was just sitting in the marina most of that time and the owners didn't just instruct them to black it! The boat is 2001 build. Inspection hatch under the bed shows considerable internal corrosion, but it is dry. I am considering having a survey done but wanted to ask more experienced folk the odds of this survey being a waste of money. Is the damage likely to be significant?

how did you obtain this information? you mean 25 years

I'm trying to identify the age of a boat. CRT Index number has 5 digits (75828). The boat looks 1980s to me. All I can find so far is its old name. Any way to identify it? There is no paperwork to this effect. Cannot find a build number, possibly under the floor!

I am wondering about the possibility of zero-rating the cost of the licence and mooring fees on our new zero-rated widebeam. I so far am unable to find a clear answer online, but I have found several accounts of people doing this with moorings at least. If it applies to moorings, even leisure ones, and services like safety inspections, I don't see why the licence can't be zero rated. Does anyone have experience with this?