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Poppin

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  1. Can anyone clarify bss requirements for low-level ventilation? Can't understand it from the document. Is it required or just reccoemnded to have a certain amount of low level ventilation? Or is it just a certain amount of overall ventilation, with whatever amount of low level ventilation is practicable? The boat builder left me with some unused vents in the shell on the widebeam, and I'm wondering if all of these need to be ducted down to ground level, one in particular would be easier to leave unused.
  2. Saw a fairly nice narrowboat yesterday I am thinking of buying. I was wondering what the issue was and then asked "oh, when was she last blacked". 2014. Such a shame seeing as the boat was just sitting in the marina most of that time and the owners didn't just instruct them to black it! The boat is 2001 build. Inspection hatch under the bed shows considerable internal corrosion, but it is dry. I am considering having a survey done but wanted to ask more experienced folk the odds of this survey being a waste of money. Is the damage likely to be significant?
  3. how did you obtain this information? you mean 25 years
  4. I'm trying to identify the age of a boat. CRT Index number has 5 digits (75828). The boat looks 1980s to me. All I can find so far is its old name. Any way to identify it? There is no paperwork to this effect. Cannot find a build number, possibly under the floor!
  5. I am wondering about the possibility of zero-rating the cost of the licence and mooring fees on our new zero-rated widebeam. I so far am unable to find a clear answer online, but I have found several accounts of people doing this with moorings at least. If it applies to moorings, even leisure ones, and services like safety inspections, I don't see why the licence can't be zero rated. Does anyone have experience with this?
  6. I applied a top coat of craftmaster directly on top of jotun 2 pack. I haven't had an issue doing this before but it seems to be peeling straight off. I'm wondering if this is not having enough of a key, it is quite smooth. though I do notice that so far it's only happening in the areas that have been sprayed. Potentially an incorrect thinner ratio? I went for 15% as advised but hard to be exact. Any advice?
  7. 6 inches seems like a lot, I was going to replace the spray foam with a small layer or fire rated foam against the roof to stop condensation, and then some rock wool after that. The new foam would be well within the protection of the cast iron collar.
  8. On the new stove install, as the single wall pipe passes through the roof collar I know that I'm supposed to maintain a gap between flue and collar, which is then sealed with rope and envirograf. However due to the angle of the stove and roof, the flue almost touches the collar on one side at the very top (exit). There is a gap of maybe 1.5mm. I can improve this by moving the stove forward 1 or 2cm, but it looks a bit odd like that and the flue a tad too diagonal. Would rather avoid this. What can I do? Does it matter really if the flue almost touches the collar at one edge? I've read about people cutting the pipe diagonally in this situation, but I'm unclear if that is done only leaving one side of the pipe slightly protruding the collar and the other half way down inside!
  9. interesting. how would you do this? place to collar on a bed of the stuff, prop it up and thats it? Or just some kind of sheet to stop it sticking? my concern is a straight flue inside the boat
  10. As it turns out, I need to raise one side of the roof collar 5-10mm to properly account for the roof angle. What is the best practice? I know lots of people make up hardwood spacers. What about using metal spacers and tilling the gap with CT1 and body filler? Somone else suggersted just taking off 5mm the other side using flappy disc on the grinder. Personally I'm not sure I can do this straight. Any suggestions seriously welcome!!
  11. Thanks so much everyone! Would you use the same combination of rope followed by sealent for the gap between flue and roof collar?
  12. Just took delivery of the new stove. It is designed for a 5 inch flue, and my plan was to install a 4.5 inch single wall flue with silicone and fire rope. As you can see from the pictures attached, the flue collar is a little larger than expected. The 4.5 inch flue will still fit and surround the internal hole of the stove, but the gap to fill all the way around is about 10mm. Will it still be acceptable to seal this with envirograf silicone and fire rope? If so, what order and procedure would you recommend? If not, would you recommend a reducer like this: https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/ag-socket-adaptor-reducer-cast-iron-hf-462-m Any help appreciated! Also while I'm here, can anyone recommend a white or off-white enamled stove paint for the flue? Cannot find a thing
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