Poppin

Could I not install a second Ccumilator tank after the filters?

Ah I see, and I suppose the filters would last twice as long. Still, space concerns...

What do you mean by in parallel?

Hoping someone can advise on water pressure issue. I have a 45psi whale water pump with accumulator. I have recently installed a triple filter after the pump, which is part of a wider system for the filtering of canal water. The triple filter has caused a pressure drop significant enough to cause a delay in the pump activating. I will attempt to adjust the pressure switch, bit since the cut out is fixed to 0.6 bar from the cut in, I am guessing my problems will continue. Can anyone advise on ideas?

Can anyone clarify bss requirements for low-level ventilation? Can't understand it from the document. Is it required or just reccoemnded to have a certain amount of low level ventilation? Or is it just a certain amount of overall ventilation, with whatever amount of low level ventilation is practicable? The boat builder left me with some unused vents in the shell on the widebeam, and I'm wondering if all of these need to be ducted down to ground level, one in particular would be easier to leave unused.

Saw a fairly nice narrowboat yesterday I am thinking of buying. I was wondering what the issue was and then asked "oh, when was she last blacked". 2014. Such a shame seeing as the boat was just sitting in the marina most of that time and the owners didn't just instruct them to black it! The boat is 2001 build. Inspection hatch under the bed shows considerable internal corrosion, but it is dry. I am considering having a survey done but wanted to ask more experienced folk the odds of this survey being a waste of money. Is the damage likely to be significant?

how did you obtain this information? you mean 25 years

I'm trying to identify the age of a boat. CRT Index number has 5 digits (75828). The boat looks 1980s to me. All I can find so far is its old name. Any way to identify it? There is no paperwork to this effect. Cannot find a build number, possibly under the floor!

I am wondering about the possibility of zero-rating the cost of the licence and mooring fees on our new zero-rated widebeam. I so far am unable to find a clear answer online, but I have found several accounts of people doing this with moorings at least. If it applies to moorings, even leisure ones, and services like safety inspections, I don't see why the licence can't be zero rated. Does anyone have experience with this?

I applied a top coat of craftmaster directly on top of jotun 2 pack. I haven't had an issue doing this before but it seems to be peeling straight off. I'm wondering if this is not having enough of a key, it is quite smooth. though I do notice that so far it's only happening in the areas that have been sprayed. Potentially an incorrect thinner ratio? I went for 15% as advised but hard to be exact. Any advice?

6 inches seems like a lot, I was going to replace the spray foam with a small layer or fire rated foam against the roof to stop condensation, and then some rock wool after that. The new foam would be well within the protection of the cast iron collar.

On the new stove install, as the single wall pipe passes through the roof collar I know that I'm supposed to maintain a gap between flue and collar, which is then sealed with rope and envirograf. However due to the angle of the stove and roof, the flue almost touches the collar on one side at the very top (exit). There is a gap of maybe 1.5mm. I can improve this by moving the stove forward 1 or 2cm, but it looks a bit odd like that and the flue a tad too diagonal. Would rather avoid this. What can I do? Does it matter really if the flue almost touches the collar at one edge? I've read about people cutting the pipe diagonally in this situation, but I'm unclear if that is done only leaving one side of the pipe slightly protruding the collar and the other half way down inside!

where from? do i have to make one?

Colcraft widebeam, stove is to the side.

interesting. how would you do this? place to collar on a bed of the stuff, prop it up and thats it? Or just some kind of sheet to stop it sticking? my concern is a straight flue inside the boat

I have one, its not quite enough of an angle

As it turns out, I need to raise one side of the roof collar 5-10mm to properly account for the roof angle. What is the best practice? I know lots of people make up hardwood spacers. What about using metal spacers and tilling the gap with CT1 and body filler? Somone else suggersted just taking off 5mm the other side using flappy disc on the grinder. Personally I'm not sure I can do this straight. Any suggestions seriously welcome!!

Thanks so much everyone! Would you use the same combination of rope followed by sealent for the gap between flue and roof collar?

Just took delivery of the new stove. It is designed for a 5 inch flue, and my plan was to install a 4.5 inch single wall flue with silicone and fire rope. As you can see from the pictures attached, the flue collar is a little larger than expected. The 4.5 inch flue will still fit and surround the internal hole of the stove, but the gap to fill all the way around is about 10mm. Will it still be acceptable to seal this with envirograf silicone and fire rope? If so, what order and procedure would you recommend? If not, would you recommend a reducer like this: https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/ag-socket-adaptor-reducer-cast-iron-hf-462-m Any help appreciated! Also while I'm here, can anyone recommend a white or off-white enamled stove paint for the flue? Cannot find a thing

Thanks!! Will use BAL all purpose. What heat silicone would you recommend for tiles? Was going to use envirograf for flue but not sure that's also an adhesive?

I have recieved my Calcuim Silizate board of the construction of the hearth. I planemned to tile directly on top of it. However the board is quite messy and unexpectedly chalky. White powdery residue comes off on your hands when touched. I would imagine no tile adhesive would work on this. Is this normal? Should I screw on some tile backer?

Any reason why you didn't want the 4.5?

oh really? silicone into the stove collar itself? Only had that recommended for the roof collar before.

Midland Chandlers tell me that it is fine and quite common to connect some 4.5" flue pipe directly to a 5" stove outlet without using a reducer. What would be best practice for this? Stuff with fire rope and then cement? Here is the reducing socket they sell https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/ag-socket-adaptor-reducer-cast-iron-hf-462-m but because the measurements are 4 3/4'' id to 4 1/2'' id, I'm told the fit will be too tight. In other words these sockets are meant to reduction to 4" pipe? Any experience with these parts or advice appreciated!

Quite simply, the position of my stove is as far to the side of the boat as I can reasonably get it. It looks good there and will not block the walk way. In this position a single wall flue of 120cm will perfectly go straight up and out. A twin wall flue is 6cm fatter, poses problems with this, is ugly and a waste of heat as far as I can tell. Where the single wall flue is close to the upper wall I will put a nice looking copper or stainless heat shield. I do not see any reason why people are telling me to use a twin wall. If it is not required in should not cause me problems later on woth insurance etc. I should not have chandleries telling me to do it. Can someone link me to regs themselves?