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I just woke up slightly anxious I need to paint my engine. 
it’s getting a bit rusty. 
It’s a ford tractor engine so I’d like it to be Ford blue. 
looks like a big job. Is this possible without removing the damn thing?? 
 

 

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10 minutes ago, Polishicebreaker said:

Is this possible without removing the damn thing?? 

Yes.

 

But you will do a far better (and much easier) job if you disconnect / remove all the ancillaries (Alternator, starter motor, water pipes, pumps, belts, filters, throttle cables, electric wiring etc etc etc)

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10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Yes.

 

But you will do a far better (and much easier) job if you disconnect / remove all the ancillaries (Alternator, starter motor, water pipes, pumps, belts, filters, throttle cables, electric wiring etc etc etc)

This ^^^^^^. Depends how penickerty you are. For the ultimate job, remove from boat, strip of all ancillaries, degrease, derust, multiple layers of paint, rebuild, replace in boat. For the quickest job, do what Beta Marine do with their new engines and just spray green paint over everything, alternators, hoses, jubilee clips and all. Or somewhere in between. Depends on how much time/effort you want to put in for a result that satisfies you. An engine with surface rust should still work just fine for many years, though it is an indication that it has been neglected at some point in its past, with potential consequences to its functioning and painting won't change that.

 

Jen

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Once there is  a coat of paint all over it, there are some out there who would describe the engine as "fully refurbished".  Especially if they were selling it🤔.

 

N

 

 

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3 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Once there is  a coat of paint all over it, there are some out there who would describe the engine as "fully refurbished".  Especially if they were selling it🤔.

 

N

 

 

31 years ago, my new Perkins 4108M came painted as above, in what you are probably calling Ford Blue. It is interesting to see how many parts have been changed as they are not blue.

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Remove flaking paint, degrease, wirebrush, wire wool degrease again and slap it on. (Proper engine paint, exhaust paint for exhaust header). bilge paint for bilge and raddle on undercoat for floor. Red hammerite for the tarty highlights.

 

Hot, sweaty, fiddly, backaching, skinned knuckles and sweary. And that's with an engine in an engine room. Painted starter and alternator too.

 

 

 

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20181106_143719.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

20181110_113609.jpg

 

 

 

20190406_100539_resized.jpg

 

 

 

 

20190406_124413_resized.jpg

Edited by mark99
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13 minutes ago, mark99 said:

Hot, sweaty, fiddly, backaching, skinned knuckles and sweary

Hey, I resemble that remark!

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All what is said above. A really good clean and de grease is important and not easy as any oil trapped in little gaps (like around the head gasket) will keep leeching out for weeks. A bad paint job might actually look worse than a bit of rust. We have the "John Deere Tractor" and that was given the Beta all-over paint job (but to be fair Beta only paint over the John Deere paint job which is also pretty much all over). Over time I have had to remove/replace several ancillaries etc and so have removed as much paint as I can from these and now its starting to look quite good. Rubber hoses and jubilee clips covered in flaking paint are just horrid.

 

A big masking up job and spray might be better than trying to brush paint. The Craftmaster spray engine paint (if still available?) was dead good.

 

...............Dave

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41 minutes ago, mark99 said:

Remove flaking paint, degrease, wirebrush, wire wool degrease again and slap it on. (Proper engine paint, exhaust paint for exhaust header). bilge paint for bilge and raddle on undercoat for floor. Red hammerite for the tarty highlights.

 

Hot, sweaty, fiddly, backaching, skinned knuckles and sweary. And that's with an engine in an engine room. Painted starter and alternator too.

 

 

Yo Mark,

 

Looks good, shame original painting was so Skimpy!. 

 

No Boating for me - I broke my left Femur in early Feb. difficult repair as it was badly broken in 1966..........unlightly to be fully 'repaired' until mid July.

 

Keep good.

 

M.

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14 minutes ago, LEO said:

Yo Mark,

 

Looks good, shame original painting was so Skimpy!. 

 

No Boating for me - I broke my left Femur in early Feb. difficult repair as it was badly broken in 1966..........unlightly to be fully 'repaired' until mid July.

 

Keep good.

 

M.

 

 

Ouch! and Doh!  :)

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5 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

This ^^^^^^. Depends how penickerty you are. For the ultimate job, remove from boat, strip of all ancillaries, degrease, derust, multiple layers of paint, rebuild, replace in boat. For the quickest job, do what Beta Marine do with their new engines and just spray green paint over everything, alternators, hoses, jubilee clips and all. Or somewhere in between. Depends on how much time/effort you want to put in for a result that satisfies you. An engine with surface rust should still work just fine for many years, though it is an indication that it has been neglected at some point in its past, with potential consequences to its functioning and painting won't change that.

 

Jen

I hate how Beta Marine just spray everything green, I like to be able to easily see what’s what, and I do think that painting rubber hoses and cables is just sloppy.

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22 hours ago, mark99 said:

Remove flaking paint, degrease, wirebrush, wire wool degrease again and slap it on. (Proper engine paint, exhaust paint for exhaust header). bilge paint for bilge and raddle on undercoat for floor. Red hammerite for the tarty highlights.

 

Hot, sweaty, fiddly, backaching, skinned knuckles and sweary. And that's with an engine in an engine room. Painted starter and alternator too.

 

 

 

20181014_111504_resized.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20181106_143719.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

20181110_113609.jpg

 

 

 

20190406_100539_resized.jpg

 

 

 

 

20190406_124413_resized.jpg

Engine porn, great start to a day.

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Many years ago we had Minies that leaked oil from new.

BL solution under warranty was to degrease and paint the engine/gearbox.

Surprisingly it stopped the leaks.

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23 hours ago, mark99 said:

Remove flaking paint, degrease, wirebrush, wire wool degrease again and slap it on. (Proper engine paint, exhaust paint for exhaust header). bilge paint for bilge and raddle on undercoat for floor. Red hammerite for the tarty highlights.

 

Hot, sweaty, fiddly, backaching, skinned knuckles and sweary. And that's with an engine in an engine room. Painted starter and alternator too.

Well done  . A far higher quality finish  than it ever would have been when new. 

 

Do you find it easy to keep ?

I ask because   I cleaned my engine bay thoroughly after I bought the boat and find a quick wipe over, little and often,  keeps it nice ........other then a few  areas that are very hard to reach.

 

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10 hours ago, MartynG said:

Well done  . A far higher quality finish  than it ever would have been when new. 

 

Do you find it easy to keep ?

I ask because   I cleaned my engine bay thoroughly after I bought the boat and find a quick wipe over, little and often,  keeps it nice ........other then a few  areas that are very hard to reach.

 

Spot on Martyn. Wipe down regularly say every two cruising days. Clean leaves out of bilge etc.

 

The halfords ultra high temp exhaust paint spray is not holding up too well. ;)

7 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Nicked from Facebook 

Image may contain: 1 person

Blue and green should never be seen!

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13 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Many years ago we had Minies that leaked oil from new.

BL solution under warranty was to degrease and paint the engine/gearbox.

Surprisingly it stopped the leaks.

Bad move then the front subframe would have rusted away just like the rear one

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