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Tracy D'arth

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Everything posted by Tracy D'arth

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. Plastic laminate? Google "shower panelling", there are lots of different ones.
  3. These plastic bodied pumps distort horribly and leak ever after if they are allowed to freeze.
  4. Download this book. http://www.devill.net/Infos/Electricite/alternatorhandbook.pdf It is a bible on alternators. The W on a ring seems odd to me, its usually a small blade.
  5. Unthreading prop is rubbish, I know of none that are threaded and even if it was it would have fallen off by now. You have a prop full of garbage.
  6. That is a standard A127 alternator. What connections do you have, rings or spades? The 3 spade connections in the odd shaped hole are 2 X Battery, B on the large spades and D+ excitation on the small one. The small tag in the little hole below the nut terminal on the left could be a W tacho connection One of the big nut terminals is also B+ for battery live, the other will be ground, B-for battery negative...... If you do not have a negative connection it will not work. The original alternator may of had the insulator removed from the B- one the allow it to ground via
  7. The hose adaptor is held by the clip against a rubber o ring which could be dirty of damaged. If the pump is running slowly it must be pumping water to somewhere or the pump has faulty valves. Is the "new" pump really new? Daft question, there is water in the tank? If you can plug the pump outlet, does the pump stop? # Is there a mixer tap or shower mixer valve? Are you sure that there is not a safety pressure release valve somewhere dumping water overboard or into the bilge?
  8. The original ran "continuously", This one doesn't run as much, please explain what is as much. The plumbing is a bit of nasty bodge job, you will have to persevere fitting the pipe and the worm drive clip, you may need a new piece of pipe.
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  10. If you have W and B only it is a self exciting alternator. A rare item. What does the wire from the warning light connect to if this is the case? B is the battery + connection. W is for the tacho only, nothing else. Send a photo of the back of the alternator.
  11. The voltage on the D+ excitation tag with the engine stopped, ignition on should be zero, bulb lit. With engine running fast enough to charge, bulb not lit it will be 12v plus. With the engine running, fast, the bulb should have 12v+ plus relative to battery negative on both sides. Your 4.5v is wrong for some reason. Is the replacement alternator a good one? Is it correctly wired? Are the connections all in the correct place? Are you confusing the D+ terminal and the W tacho terminal?
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  16. There must be a good reason why Alde have discontinued the most popular gas guzzling models used on boats. Lack of demand? I am deeply suspicious about the claim that they need no servicing. I have seen several where the central flue tube as corroded away into a mass of holes quite quickly. I would not like that on any boat of mine. Pray tell where the dodgy garages are for refills in a way that it does not get redacted.
  17. Sorry, missed the time to edit it out, looks to be gone now, thanks Mods.
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  20. Try browsing this forum, its more sea based and old big BMC engine folk are often on here. https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?forums/practical-boat-owners-reader-to-reader.13/ TD'
  21. Ooooh, don't put you email address for all to see, send on private message or you may get spammed for ever.
  22. I believe that annealing the copper pipes is a necessary service procedure to stop them hardening and cracking. Don't ask RCR, they know nothing about Listers.
  23. If that spade is for a tacho, is it an automotive one? Looks otherwise like an early Escort one.
  24. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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