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Chewbacka last won the day on December 12 2016

Chewbacka had the most liked content!

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About Chewbacka

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    Automotive Quality engineer - retired
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  1. Before designing a hot water circulation system consider - Even lagged pipes will loose heat, so to keep the tank hot will require more heat in. This may not be a problem. Circulating the water requires a pump, which will take a amp or so, so if you run it for 12hours that could be 15Ah. For me the heat lost and power used is a bigger concern than a few litres of water saved per day.
  2. And the domestic water is separated from the radiator water which contains corrosion inhibitors.
  3. The point is that if there isn’t a flexible coupling then unless the engine is aligned to the prop shaft within a few thou the stern gland/bearing will not last long. The new mounts are going to be a different height to the current mounts, so without the flexible coupling you must align the engine as part of changing the mounts.
  4. It depends on how you define best. So if money is no problem, and you want your gi to be ‘bomb proof’ then one approved to ABYC or better is definitely best, and what most people on here would recommend. However if you think best is a unit that will prevent galvanic corrosion, will probably survive a fairly large transient fault current, or if it does not survive, it will probably last long enough for the breaker (including rcd trip) to disconnect before anyone is seriously hurt and will be replaced for free under the lifetime warranty and is a lower cost than an ABYC approved unit, then something from Safesure marine would by my choice. https://www.safeshoremarine.com/products/ i know you want plug in, but if money is a big problem, an internal unit is a lot lower cost. Just saying.......... As to not wanting hassle, I can relate to that.
  5. Above you (Ivan) said “far as I'm aware hot water recirculation is becoming fairly common on land”. Are you thinking of combi boilers??
  6. Same as a car mot, the examiner should not be asking questions, just checking to the standard, no more and no less. In fact you do not even need to be present for a BSS examination, so long as the boat is in an examinable condition.
  7. Why passing fresh water through your heating is a bad idea. Copper and steel in contact will create a galvanic corrosion cell, so to prevent corrosion you must use corrosion inhibitors, to avoid frost damage it is normal to add antifreeze to a boat closed system as well. Hence the use of coolant. Steel rads will always rust internally the rust will jam up your thermostatic (eg shower) valves. Corrosion also needs oxygen, on a closed system, the small amount of oxygen in the water is soon used up (it makes a film of rust), fresh tap water contains dissolved oxygen, so if you pass hot fresh water through your system you will constantly be bringing fresh oxygen to the exposed steel surfaces inside the rads which will greatly encourage corrosion. In a hard water area you will deposited scale inside your rads. As an aside, and if I remember correctly - If you use plastic pipe for closed heating systems you must use barrier pipe not the cheap stuff (if you can get it), the purpose of the barrier is to prevent (or greatly reduce) oxygen diffusion through the pipe walls into the recirculating water, otherwise corrosion of steel rads and boiler heat exchangers will be a big problem.
  8. My point was that you said “AH pumped into a battery have only two destinations, either to convert the lead sulphated to lead and acid (ie charge the battery) or be used to dissociate water into hydrogen and oxygen” my point was that some of the energy ‘pumped’ into a battery has a third destination, ie heat. added - whilst you say AH doesn’t have energy which is true, but current can not flow into or out of a battery without a voltage difference, a battery does not store amps it stores energy.
  9. And some of the energy is lost as heat, more so at higher currents, as cells do have an internal resistance.
  10. They can get warm and do need a bit of air circulation to keep them cool, so don’t enclose it in the insulation. 4 sq mm flexible cable will just fit.
  11. I would say this is a latent defect caused by their negligence and as such (my understanding and I am not a lawyer) it is not necessarily time limited to the warranty period. I quick call to trading standards may clarify for you and your options. This is based on my assumption that you bought it from the boat builder. If not you will struggle to prove the previous owner did not adjust the engine height etc.........
  12. I have the dc current reading versions of both the UT210 & UT203, I find them very good. The 210 has smaller jaws but will just accept a 90mm2 cable, but for home and car use I doubt that is a limitation. Likewise the max current is a lot lower for the 210 but again (probably) more than enough for car and home use, and has a lower range so better for currents less than say 15A. If either were lost, I would buy the same again. A word of caution, if you buy on eBay etc the letter at the end (210E) designates certain features, one of which is the ability to measure DC current, so take care.
  13. If you do hire one, make sure they know it is for metal, otherwise the teeth they supply will be only suitable for concrete and will very quickly wear away on metal, and they are not cheap.
  14. Pedant alert - 6kWh or 6kW for one hour.
  15. To put 500Ah into a battery will need about 550Ah. The battery for reasons of chemistry will only take charge at the rate it wants, which is usually a lot less than the rate alternator/charger is capable of. So if you could put in a constant 50A it would take 11 hours. But it will take maybe 50A to start with but quickly drops, so obviously it will take a lot longer. Just a guess, but maybe the best part of a day to get down to a current of about 5A at say 14.4v, at which point I would say the battery bank was just about full. lpg has less calories than petrol, so max power output on lpg is a bit lower. From memory the Honda gennie can do something like 1.8kW continuous. if you don’t take full power from a gennie, where does it go? Nowhere as it never got used in the first place. A bit like a car going at 70mph up a hill will use more fuel than 70mph on the flat. Same a a gennie, if there is less load, it uses less fuel.
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