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Everything posted by Chewbacka

  1. I like spray foam as insulation, if you have a written agreement for min thickness AND you are there when it is applied you can ensure it meets the agreed thickness. Be upfront about this - it may cost a bit more as you are using more stuff and time. I also agreed to trim back the excess myself, as it is a crappy job and another incentive to spray a bit thin. Just buy a couple of bread knives and a big roll of bin bags.
  2. Maybe obviously, but the log periodic aerial must point directly at the transmitter if in a poor signal area. If the cable needs waggling about, it sounds like either the connectors are dirty/corroded or the cable has an internal cracked core, in which case you need a new cable.
  3. But none are allowed to be used in boats.
  4. It’s a draft version containing the proposed changes which has been made available for interested parties to comment upon. They have also more clearly defined what constitutes an lpg leak that needs urgent fixing and the leak level that is considered as immediately dangerous, requiring system isolation. I shall have a read through and see what else is different in the next few weeks.
  5. Chewbacka

    dvt 1000

    If it works fine, then a ‘better’ one won’t be better. That said I use a log periodic aerial on a pole, it works better in poor reception areas than an omni-directional antenna, but it must point directly at the transmitter or it will be worse than you have now.
  6. I think they are sensitive to fuel gasses, and being typically mounted high up react to CO and Hydrogen, lpg being heavy tends to stay low down below the alarm and you smell it and fix the leak.
  7. Or to say it’s perfect for continuous cruising what with it’s new gear box.
  8. It may help to increase the ventilation to the housing as when the lights are on the temperature goes up the warm air will evaporate a lot of the moisture, if it is ventilated the warm wet air can be replaced by drier cold air taking the moisture away. Maybe need a breather pipe to outside the warm wet room.
  9. Good point, if the EA gives permits to the water companies allowing sewage discharge directly into the river, why don’t they sell permits to boats as well???
  10. Agree, ex 3 is the best method and the one I used. Plastic Barrier pipe was developed to minimise oxygen diffusion through the pipe walls and dissolving into the coolant as it will cause corrosion. So if you haven’t used barrier pipe I would replace it.
  11. LPG may carry on, but the limiting factor for ‘mains gas’ boilers will be determined by the date they swap natural gas to hydrogen. However I would assume the industry to start selling hydrogen ready boilers that can be converted. But the demise of ‘mains’ natural gas is inevitable.
  12. Whilst it is not yet law the “In the Heat and Buildings Strategy, published in October 2021, the government announced that they’re aiming to phase out gas boilers in UK homes from 2035.”
  13. Natural gas as supplied to uk homes is Methane, and is anything but a green fuel, hence the government intention to ban the sale of natural gas boilers in the (relatively) near future.
  14. probably can’t buy that bit, need a complete burner. Have a look here https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/gas/caravan-hob/spinflo-caprice-mk-3-cooker-oh92000-12v-spare-parts#ppSpecs[iframes]/0/
  15. Just a thought - the diesel heater will usually take fuel from higher up the tank than the engine, so if you have got water in the tank it is possible the engine has a problem when the boiler doesn’t. Probably not the problem but easy to run of some fuel from the engine supply hose to check, or better still if you have a water separator drain that to see.
  16. If you have several panels in parallel then fuses may be required but this is not common on boats
  17. Maybe the thermostatic valves are set too cool, try turning them up, or better still remove them.
  18. Mine is a Colecraft and the HIN also does not match the iso std, but it does start as GBCOL, it’s just the rest that’s not compliant, never had any concerns raised when licensing with CRT or insuring it.
  19. On my Webasto the time controller has 3 wires, positive, signal and negative. The positive and negative power up the controller. To turn the boiler “on” the controller connects the signal wire to the positive supply. For “off” the signal wire is left floating, ie not connected to anything. So you can use a simple on/off switch to connect the signal wire to the positive wire when you want the boiler ‘on’, or if you want something more sophisticated a 12v countdown module programmed for say 60mins can be found on eBay for about a fiver though you may want a housing for it. Added - the signal method above is very low current so any switch will do, but if you use a switch in the power supply to the Webasto unit to turn on & off , then when you turn off the supply to the boiler, the unit will not go through it’s shut down routine and will probably not last long. check the wiring to your existing controller to check the above applies.
  20. Your maths is a bit out. 170A for 3mins is 510Aminutes, which is 8.5Ah.
  21. Extract or blow in? Depends on where the vents are. So if extracting from high up, the fan will extract mainly hot air as hot air rises. If you blow in cold air low down, and excess air escapes on the opposite side low down air vent, then a blanket of lighter hot air will sit above the air flow. So best is to extract from a high level and allow cold air in ideally ducted onto things like alternators to cool them.
  22. Could have failed and the pipe disconnected and capped off, then the boat might pass depending on the rules in Ireland.
  23. Maybe a daft question, but you haven’t left the immersion heater ‘on’?
  24. If it is a modified sine wave it will have a lot of noise that could be picked up by the amp. The other problems sound like a bad Earth. Is your inverter neutral Earth bonded, and is the inverter Earth connected to the boat hull?
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