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Chewbacka

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Everything posted by Chewbacka

  1. Your maths is a bit out. 170A for 3mins is 510Aminutes, which is 8.5Ah.
  2. Extract or blow in? Depends on where the vents are. So if extracting from high up, the fan will extract mainly hot air as hot air rises. If you blow in cold air low down, and excess air escapes on the opposite side low down air vent, then a blanket of lighter hot air will sit above the air flow. So best is to extract from a high level and allow cold air in ideally ducted onto things like alternators to cool them.
  3. Could have failed and the pipe disconnected and capped off, then the boat might pass depending on the rules in Ireland.
  4. Maybe a daft question, but you haven’t left the immersion heater ‘on’?
  5. If it is a modified sine wave it will have a lot of noise that could be picked up by the amp. The other problems sound like a bad Earth. Is your inverter neutral Earth bonded, and is the inverter Earth connected to the boat hull?
  6. Can’t see it doing any smart charging, interesting to see if it works at all
  7. I hope the ‘other solution’ to taps being ‘tampered with’ won’t be the complete removal of the facility…….
  8. Also coal can last all night (damped down, so not a lot of heat) but easy to wake up the fire in the morning. Wood won’t last over night.
  9. More like £35 for an rcd and a couple of lights and £50 for the metal plate and putting it all together, which at a Labour rate of £40 an hour doesn’t sound so unreasonable.
  10. Ignoring for a moment the option of using an isolating transformer, the shore Earth (either direct or via a galvanic isolator) must connect to the boat hull - assuming it is a metal boat. Additionally the negative pole of the 12v system is also required to be bonded to the hull. Ideally the 240v AC Earth connection and the 12v negative should be connected to the hull by separate studs that are adjacent. This is all defined in the iso standard mentioned earlier. Added - Failure to connect Earth bonding wires for shore power supplies correctly can under certain fault conditions result in the boat being ‘live’ and if touched by someone standing on the bank/pontoon etc result in a fatal electric shock. Whilst the risk of this is greatly reduced as most supplies are RCD protected it is not wise to rely on that rather than doing the job properly.
  11. Of course not, BMW parts are too expensive.
  12. Not a job a tall fat person, needs a good level of flexibility if you are going to get into the pointy corner of the boat.
  13. I think the main reason for direct connection for Webasto units is if it is ‘burning’ and you turn off the power the pump stops and the water in the boiler can boil, also when the Webasto shuts down it goes through a shut down sequence which again would not happen if the power were just switched off, so safer to direct connect to reduced ‘accidents’
  14. The company was founded in 1904 and is still going today. They may be interested in your map and may even know when it was published. https://www.imray.com/about-us/
  15. I chose not to use foam to seal mine as I was concerned that dirty water might enter by capillary action, or just leaks as it ages. So I used a silicone sealer suitable for drinking water. However I have not had reason to reopen the tank, so I don’t know how easy that will be…………….
  16. It is thickness dependant, so a ‘thin’ foam layer will cure with humidity, but a thick layer will take a long time to cure if moisture has to diffuse a long distance. On steel, I would wipe with a damp cloth to leave a film of water, then immediately apply the foam otherwise the water will have evaporated, when foam is applied, spray (plant mister) a little water on the surface.
  17. If you just want to smash it up, a medium size hammer would be a good start.
  18. I had expected the pitched noise to give rise to wife jokes, but best avoided
  19. Has it always done this or is it a recent change? I had a hash buzzing noise that recently occurred at a repeatable fairly narrow rpm band. After spending a fair bit of time checking lots of nuts & bolts etc, I checked the prop. There was a big ding on the tip of one blade, sort of torn and folded at right angles, say 12x5mm. Filed off the projection and all back to normal. If you do check the prop blades for damage that can cause the blade to resonate, take care (wear cut proof gloves) as my ding was sharp enough to cut, and canal water and cut fingers are not a god combination.
  20. Then you need a potable water accumulator, the colour doesn’t matter, though some may say convention is blue for cold and red (expansion vessel) for hot.
  21. Could it be the shower rose needs a clean/descale as it is restricting the flow? Or even that the cold water is a bit warm, so hot flow is reduced? Or even a combination?
  22. My diesel was about 18 months old dosed with marine 16, no bug. My understanding is that the cetane rating drops after 6 months or so, so I added some cetane booster, engine starts easily and so far no problems with either the Webasto or engine. I would not use an emulsifier, as if the water is sucked from the bottom of the tank there is no need, which whilst messy is my preferred option. Had I not added the stuff, would I have had problems??? So success or snake oil?? Either way, if I have to leave the boat unused for a long period I would do it again, less to sit at home brooding about.
  23. Once most fridges were ranked A they then had A+, then A++ and I think even A+++, so letters B and beyond were redundant. Hence new targets.
  24. But no shade is good for solar power generation
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