Tracy D'arth

Well its have a go at Tracy day is it? Well sod you all, I have had enough, bye.

A pointless comment that need not have been made, we all know that criminal damage is out of order, the clue is in the word "criminal".

How dare you say that I made a pointless comment that need never be made. Who do you think you are to decide what anyone else can comment on? It was not anti-cyclist at all. I understand all the reasons why registration is impractical, that does not preclude me from making the comment. Your arrogance on this forum is legionary, it negates to your detriment all the useful comments that you make.

Shame he didn't take a 'photo. Police not interested is unusual, I have always found that they are interested in assaults on pensioners and criminal damage. Another reason for cycles to be registered with a number and insured, but it will never happen.

I'll bet its a standard microswitch, pennies from an electronics store or even an electrical wholesaler. Worth taking it apart then you can have a spare pump.

The accumulator has nothing to do with the cut off pressure of the pump even if over or under pressurised. Its the microswitch in the end of the pump. It is adjustable with the screw but is likely not to solve the problem as Tony says. Fitting another separate switch like the Square D one will involve a bit of plumbing on the outlet pipe of the pump but is the best solution. These Par-Max pumps are not the same quality as the old American ones, the reason is written on the label, "Made in - - - -"

I don't think the OP has a clue about the use of the greaser or about how it is packed. He will be better off getting someone to sort it for him rather than buying spanners and possibly sinking his boat.

"D" bar is normally used, same as the rubbing strakes. You need to get a watertight weld top and bottom. How many years has it taken to wear off the original, say 20mm, of base plate? Usually the wear results in the overhang thinning on the bottom but until the wear threatens the integrity of the outside weld it is ignored. Welding "shoes" on the bow and stern corners where the swims start is common rather than the full length of the hull.

Ask R&D? There may be differences in the plastic cushion parts, R&D make plates with varying stages of shock absorption. There may be universal mounting holes too rather than dedicated plates for a specific engine.

The exhaust manifold is water cooled but with revs on the engine the internal pressure will be higher than the cooling system pressure so I doubt water would get into the exhaust from the cooling water. The inlet manifold is not water cooled (unless you have a very odd manifold) and at revs will be at a very low pressure as will the inlet ports so any leakage of water will be drawn in.

Its here Tony, ""I captured some of this and let it condense, proving that it is water vapour by tasting and smelling the drops that had appeared after the vapour had condensed. ""

It has been established, Tony, that it is water as steam coming from the exhaust. It is getting in somewhere, its just find where!

If its not loosing water from the cooling system the only other place is from the fuel. Is there a filter or fuel line lying in water somewhere?

Skin tank cooled? Is it actually losing cooling water? The only idea I can put forward at this stage with the information supplied is if the water is being sucked in via an inlet valve guide or seat that has become loose in a cracked head. Or a crack in an inlet port. It may be worth using a radiator sealant ( Rad Weld ) in the hope that it will at least prove where the water is coming from.

Net the insulation in Chicken Wire and use penny washers screwed on.