Ex Brummie

I joined RCR 4 years ago, as the option of parts replacement appealed to me, along with the convenience of one phone number in the event of a breakdown. This does not stop me carrying spares within reason, or carrying out my own repairs. I carry a spare alternator, control cable, cooling system hoses, diesel injectors, bilge pump, jubilee clips, Jabsco impeller (raw water cooled), plus fuses and bulbs etc. I also have a spare domestic water pump, tap washers and plumbing connectors. RCR don't cover everything, and it is not compulsory to call them out to each little mishap. Being able to make running repairs saves time and money and is so much more convenient than waiting for an engineer. But when a drive plate or starter motor (mine is a bit special so a spare would not be economic) fails, I don't need to worry about finding someone, or the parts, or the cost between £100 -£1000. Altogether, my running spares probably cost me about £500, but have been built up over time, and by judicious purchases at boat jumbles and rallies.

Dividing the total weight by 4 is not a valid calculation. Given that the gearbox hangs off the back of the engine, the rear mounts will need to support more than the front mounts. If the job has been done properly, you would need to carry 2 spares, one front and the other rear. A discussion with the mount manufacturers, specifying your engine/gearbox combination will ensure you get the right items. This is why I suggested changing the complete set in your previous post. You can then keep a couple of the old mounts as a 'get you home' facility.

Try replacing the packing; it needn't drip unless the shaft has been damaged by lack of maintenance, or the lack of a plumber block has allowed excess movement in the stern tube.

I had similar some years back and eventually found a leak on the flexi into the lift pump. When it sucks in air, there is no damp tell tale to guide you. My leak was where the rubber was swaged onto the nipple. The rubber was split under the clamp.

Well, yes, but not lived there for 30 years. Don't really call myself anything now except perhaps local, wherever I am after a life around all parts of the West Mids. Back to your engine mounts, do you have different specs/weight ratings front and back? If so, make sure you use the right one.

Simple as that! Just make sure that they're all balanced up. Personally, I'd never change individual mounts, but the complete set. If one has gone, then the others will be worn.

Do your new mounts allow you to remove the stud? Slip the mount underneath and screw the stud back in. You don't need to jack anything up then, as the other mounts hold it up.

We have a small 75watt inverter that plugs into a lighter socket to charge our cleaner. We hired a boat on Lough Erne a couple of years ago and they used the same inverter on their cruisers for exactly the same application as yours. There was a shipping box of them in reception so I don't know how reliable they are but ours still works. About £7 on eBay at the time.

Rubbish in the river is unpredictable, and can be quite disconcerting if you encounter it. Usually it is most worrying if you are going downstream on a falling tide. Going upstream gives you better control and manoeuvrability as the tide cancels out the flow to a large extent. When we've gone out with other boats we've often been left behind. A lot of breakdowns occur because the boat is pushed to the limit by the steerer who revels in so much water. This is not necessary; just because other craft go fast does not mean you have to. If you adopt normal operations, keep well to the side,then you should be fine. Obviously, I'm assuming you have a well serviced boat and do the usual checks before starting.

If Jonathan A lives in Scotland, aren't there different regulations?

Limehouse to Teddington is not too scary. It is doubtful if you would ever be the only boat going out, but you can liaise with the lock keeper and other boats. The staff know the best times to leave, and will usually put you out on arising tide so your trip will be a lot quicker than you think. It is easy to keep out of others way, and if you see a wash, steer into it. There is much literature available which is essential reading, and also a useful navigation aid. Once you have passed the 'sights', it can become quite boring. Brentford to Limehouse is another story and can be quite daunting as the lock levels mean you will be travelling on a falling tide which makes a narrowboat more difficult to handle.

To comply with regulations, ascertain first what the manufacturers instructions specify. Having said that, most chandlers sell flexible gas hoses, usually with a 5/16" tail at each end to fit into a compression fitting fixed to the appliance and the supply pipe, and this is the usual means of connection for an inset oven. Hobs on the other hand are usually hardpiped.

open the burner door when it runs; it will be obvious

Which burner fires when it runs?

Is the controller part of the cooker or separate? What controls the cooker? It would seem you have a Y plan. Do you have a separate room thermostat and thermostat on the cylinder? Without seeing a wiring diagram, it is difficult to be precise. Does your cooker have one or two burners? Which model of heritage is it?