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DShK

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  1. The RUT955 is an okay option, not quite as good at the RUTX11 as it is CAT4 rather than CAT6. You may argue that the theoretical max speed isn't something to worry about, but afaik the real world performance of CAT6 is better than CAT4.
  2. Yeah, the router is inside the aerial enclosure. Could be risky if a thief is willing to just start pulling any old random bits off the boat (unlikely they will know that is it worth something). Mine has a canvas black "hat" that covers it, so it looks much less obvious (and nicer). As a bonus this router has a lot (much more than the average person would ever need) of features - one nice being it has a geolocation ringfence feature - so you can get a text etc if your boat is moved when you aren't there.
  3. RUTX11 + QuSpot + a decent wireless access point works well for me The QuSpot contains the router and the antenna outside the boat, and pipes in connection inside the boat to the wireless access point. The advantage of this is that you don't get signal losses over the cable between the antenna and the router, as with a typical setup. You can power the router over the ethernet cable with one of these https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/18090-mikrotik-rbgpoe/ I use the Netgear WAX214 as an access point.
  4. That makes a lot of sense! Thank you. I did try the injector pump bleed point but you do kind of get fuel everywhere. I'll have to see if I can come up with a way to catch it. Yeah I had this happen at first, I found a comment on here pointing it out, it helped a lot. Thanks!
  5. It depends on how much power the inverter uses by being on and the efficiency of the inverter vs the power draw of the 12v fridge. For example, if the 240v fridge used the equivalent of 40Ah per day on 240v. You need to factor in the inefficiency of the inverter (say 90%) - 40/0.9 is 44amps. Then, how much longer you need your inverter on. For example, if you had it on for 8 hours a day normally anyway, but now you need it for 24. Mine draws 30w (2.5a) when on. So 16x2.5 = 40Ah. This bit is complicated a bit by inverter "search" functions which can reduce this power consumption. 84Ah a day total without calculating this. You decide if the difference between this (generalised) calculation vs the reduction you may (or may not!) get from the 12 fridge, is worth it. I would look up both fridges, find their power draw, do this calculation and see if it's worth the cost to you
  6. Hi, pardon what is a fairly basic question. I am just completing the first service I've done on my 2LW. The last thing I did was change the primary fuel filter (CAV type). The video I watched on doing this showed a bolt which you undid, pumped fuel through until the bubbles in the overflowing fuel subsided. When I use my lift pump to pull fuel through, I am not getting any overflowing fuel. I think the fuel is circulating as it should as I believe I can hear the fuel feeding back into the tank (and there does seem to be fuel in the filter). Doing some more reading and research, other engines people may bleed at the second filter. It seems gardners with a lift pump don't have a way to do that as air is automatically syphoned off here. So my question is, through pulling fuel up through the lift pump, have I bled the system effectively? I don't quite understand why fuel isn't overflowing the filter as it should. I know the second filter should syphon off any air, but my understanding is air between the first and second can wreck the lift pump. Holding off on trying to start the engine just in case! Anyone able to offer an insight here? Thanks! Edit: video I originally watched, timestamped to show what I mean.
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  8. As mentioed in the OP, I cleaned the carb and when that didn't work, replaced it entirely (they are like £30). In the process of doing so I drained the fuel tank. Squirting carb cleaner in the intake should have got it started regardless of fuel (or so I was told by my friend).
  9. I watched a video on testing some electric stuff, but it seemed impossible to get to the plug without taking the casing apart. The screws holding that together were just rounding off, even with a good soak of PTFE.... Anyway, the spark plug is sparking, and otherwise the only electrics it would control are the throttle (and alternator etc) surely? (throttle able to be manually opened before it's started) There's fuel getting to the cylinders, so in theory, unless my understanding is wrong, it should be firing? Yeah I did see this guy, the location put me off. I am reluctant to send such an expensive bit of kit with ANY of those couriers to be honest. Thanks for the recommendation though, I will consider him if I can get an insured courier like DPD at a reasonable rate. I did find this local guy, anyone have any experience with him? https://www.burchmoreservices.co.uk/
  10. Hi, my EU20i has, after a few weeks of non-use, stopped working. It doesn't fire at all, beyond the occasional backfire pop. Things I've checked (with the advice of a friend): There's compression Spark plug firing (maybe a bit weak?) Oil level fine Spark plug wet but not too wet after trying to start Carb cleaned Carb replaced entirely Won't start with carb/intake cleaner squirted into the intake So I'm at the point where I need to get someone with knowledge of these machines to look at it for me. Could anyone recommend such a person, within reasonable travel distance from the Rugby area? Thanks!
  11. That seems extremely cheap for a 300amp busbar? The research I've done, they seem quite expensive at the higher amp range. I'd be a bit wary about trusting a no-name amazon seller for this. Maybe I'm wrong though. I was looking at the lynx distribution system, but that is both a negative and positive busbar.
  12. That's really great info, thank you so much for the help! As a side effect of changing my expectations - the back boiler is silent now. I think Just leaving the door open was overheating it and it was boiling. Both problems solved! Thanks everyone for the insight and your time. Maybe there should be a "stove primer" thread like there is for batteries!
  13. Forgot to mention - excel. Some of the coals were wet, spilled some water on the bag earlier. Okay, if that looks to be expected, then it sounds like my conclusion with regards to expectations was correct. There's not doubt I'm warm, but it's not that cold (I do have the hatches open though) just trying to make sure I have this down before it gets proper chilly! Yeah as Tonka mentioned, its a thermometer- "The Blue Spot Tools Stove Pipe Thermometer monitors flue pipe heat to give an accurate reading on the temperature of the stove. Features a thermal expansion coil on the rear that expands and indicates on the front of the thermometer gauge when to reload your stove to keep it efficient; too low and creosote is building up in your stove pipe and too high and you are losing energy from the stove. Specifically designed to be used with wood-burning stoves. Designed to help save energy wastage and avoid costly flue pipe repairs due to creosote and soot build-up." Sounds like the ranges are for burning wood, but still seemed like it would give a good idea of the relative temp of the stove.
  14. That makes sense. Sorry for asking lots of simple questions, I just want to understand and give due respect to the fire in my home! The backboiler cleaning was right on point, it was COVERED in ash and crud. Not a pleasant job to deal with! Good job done though. I've attached a picture of the coals 8 hours after it was banked up - hard to get a good photo but it had hot coals, I didn't see if I could coerce it into going again as I wanted to clean the backboiler. Second photo is the stove today with the vent fully open, wondering if that is as expected. I am starting to think my expectations/thought process was incorrect with the stove? It seems to me I was expecting a "lively" fire like the open fires I was raised around. Is it perhaps that I need to get a thermal mass of quite a lot of hot coals that just sit and radiate heat? If that is the case, perhaps (being thrown off by this bluespot thing?) I have been pushing it too far and the backboiler has been getting too hot? It seems to be making very little noise now.
  15. One thing I'm noticing with the vent open one turn - there's a lot more smoke coming from my chimney - I thought this was "smokeless" fuel? Is that normal?
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