Ex Brummie

My mooring stakes have a 'D' welded on, but I never tie the boat to the loop. I pass the rope through the loop, round the stake and back to the boat. I've always assumed the loop is there to stop the stake from getting lost in the canal in the event of being pulled out by traffic or other vandalistic moves.

Usually, anything screwed into pipework such as this is likely to be BSP. I'm with the grease nipple thoughts.

As others have said, you need bigger pins. If you are able to straighten them out on site, presumably only using a hammer, then they are certainly not man enough.

Pardon me for asking, but if you have this poster on ignore .....................?

If 'Boat dwellers' as described by the honourable Baroness want the facilities and protections referred to then they should be preparedto payfor them like people in fixed accomodation. if this section of the population want permanency then there are residential sites available. Granted, if you want to live in the centre of London or any of the other big cities then that comes at a price which includes contribution to the public facilities that land dwellers pay for and enjoy.

I was thinking more of this sort of thing https://www.amazon.co.uk/Strain-Relief-Connector-Protector-Grommet/dp/B0FLF3K4D3/ref=asc_df_B0FLF3K4D3?mcid=c5941c7c66023133a67a372cb893048c&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=776471913974&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9737168968716148476&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9194217&hvtargid=pla-2441607911733&psc=1&hvocijid=9737168968716148476-B0FLF3K4D3-&hvexpln=0&gad_source=1. I used to keep similar items when working as many retro-fit boiler components had a similar problem.

Picking up on the 'approved electrician' requirement, I was amused by the latest canal Boat Diaries where Robbie Cumming's boat failed BSS where his two battery leads were unsupported through bare holes in the steel bulkhead. His solution was to remove the base from a plastic cup, split the side and roll it round the cables to fit the sleeve through the holes and then smother it all in gaffer tape. We did not see whether the solution passed. Stuffing glands would be so much neater and much easier to fit.

Every Boat Club I know has a committee, elected in accordance with the constitution. One often finds many new members are only interested in what is generally a cheap mooring but involves a certain amount of work around the premises. It is this participation in the work that causes some discontent. As in all walks of life, you will encounter people who will stretch the rules to suit their purpose, and whilst you may consider that one individual exerts a lot of influence, you mwill be unaware of the pressure he is put under by other members who see a 'shirker'. As regards the 'Thrupp Mafia', they have a most unenviable job of managing a honeypot mooring where ,as in most popular sites, there are plenty of people who abuse the time limits if they get half a chance. In your instance, the decision is yours. Either accept the club ethos and management or move. Some might say that they show the will to enforce regulation in a way that CaRT seem to be incapable of, or unwilling to do , in their management practices.

The Ferroli Pegaso is what Morco used to replace their recalled heaters. Whilst in the scheme of domestic boilers, Ferroli may not have the best reputation, in the simple world of mobile water heaters, there is not so much to go wrong, and at £200 or so, replacing a permanent pilot pilot unit with battery powered auto ignition unit seems sensible. Also, there is little alternative available except for unknown chinese heaters.

Who can remember used to be simle and carefree?

I'll put the date in my diary for supporting evidence for my report of your failing.🧐

I had similar ,again on the Oxford, whilst waiting to ascend from the Cherwell. The lock was filling with a newly blacked boat waitng to descend. It entered the lock with a full complement of fenders. I enquired as to whether the steerer knew to which he replied that yes he knew and had only just had the hull blacked. He proceeded to descend until about 3/4's the way down panicked and screamed for the paddles to be closed. It took almost 1/2 an hour to slowly fill the lock and free the boat and raising it so the fenders could be raised. As they left the lock, I did enquire of the steerer if he knew why rubbing strips were so called.

Yet another example of a use for the ubiquitous cup hook!!!!

How ever you feel comfortable in operation. When only one gate is opened, there is a risk that the the boat may cause damage to the closing face of the closed gate especially with inexperienced boaters. When this occurs in an empty lock, continued abrasion causes leakage. It is not up to other boaters to berate you because they see your actions as hampering their progress.

One little ommission, Mike. You lose 3 days pay on top of the exoorbitant course costs. When I was Oftec, they also had the extra cost of keeping up to date with their books. A set of 5 at about £25 each that they managed to 'revise' every 18 months, and it was the first thing checked by the assessor on your annual assessment.

Whilst on the dy dock at Stourport, unable to use my own facilities, I used the shower at the facilities block. They were clean, effective and very welcome after a days blacking. Like all facilities where there are a lot of permanent moorers, they were left in a clean condition for the next user. The problems always seem to be where users are transient and have no thoughts for future use.

From the reports and council tax situation it would seem to be on an unregistered residential mooring along with several others who all shared the same address. The publicity from the identity of the owner seems to have put the mockers on this site

Not a Paloma, but similar on a Morco. I needed a new thermocouple/overheat stat and a new pilot. The best I could see was about £120.00 for parts with a five day delivery. Opted for the Ferroli that Morco were using as a replacement for their recall. Delivered next day for £200, including all connection fittings. Fitting was virtually direct, and with electronic ignition I'm not burning a continuous pilot,; a big plus with the cost of gas now.

I'm pretty sure there will be a date code on the label. What instructions do you think are necessary for a component that is supplied without any external or adjustable components?

I'm perfectly serious. You choose to ignore the many reported faults with bubble testers after a few years service. I'm not saying that it is easier than pressing the button on a bubble tester; it is so much more reliable than a bubble tester. There are other aspects of a manometer test that a bubble tester cannot perform.

Purely a personal view, but why introduce a component into a gas line that has another number of joints/potential leak points, and after a year or two has a failure record. A test nipple and manometer is cheaper and more reliable.

All the anti fatigue matting I've seen is not a solid rubber, but more of a lattice pattern. I suppose that as its primary use is in an industrial environment, liquids passing through the holes keeps it anti slip. It also allows water to escape so the rust problem is avoided. A good friend once gave me a 4 mt roll of 2 mt width. I didn't realise how good a friend he was till I checked the price on line!

it's a 9ft cruiser stern and visibility is no problem with the boards up, and besides, black was the only colour I had because that what colour the gunwhales are, and 5 litres is a lot of paint. now i've got a tin of light grey, who knows what will happen inthe future.🤔

I found this paint on Amazon and in Black, used it to paint my gunwhales and also the engine bay. After a year, the gunwhales have a few scrapes, but the damage is no worse than the enamel gloss that was on before. I've just bought this in light grey to repaint the roof, and it brushes easily, cobers up a red paint in one coat, and at £51 for 5 litres, you get more than enough to touch up in future whereas more 'specialist recommended' paints are more that much for 1/2 the quantity. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DSJMQLLV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

As a retired service technician for oil appliances, especially vapourising appliances, I would avoid anyadditive like the plague. Any additive reduces the vapourising of fuel, and diesel particularly as a heavier fuel is on the cusp anyway. I too have an oil stove, and when FAME fuel was introduced, I fell for the additive publicity. The only problem I had was when I added some to the tank. By all accounts it is too easy to overdose which causes extra emulsification and blocked filters. I no longer add anything, and whilst I'm not a heavy user and with only about 2 hours a month of engine running between November and March, I've not had any problem since. I do check the tank for sludge and clear out any I find, which is minimal.