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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

WotEver

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Everything posted by WotEver

  1. Cos it can turn into a sludgy gloop if the wrong two mix.
  2. Yes, red connects to red and black to black. Hopefully you have noted Shoreline’s instructions as to cable size for the feed? And fusing? Ideally the connections should be crimped - it needs to be a really good connection.
  3. On a narrowboat (which is long and thin, with correspondingly lengthy cable runs) cables are generally selected for voltage drop, not the smallest that can safely carry the current. This means that the fuse for that feed is not selected for the cable size because the cable used would be able to carry many times the current demanded by that circuit. 2.5mm would be the absolute minimum size for a water pump and I would expect a builder such as Liverpool Boats to have used at least 4mm if not 6mm. That is something which anyone with experience of narrowboats would be aware of, and why we are all confident that uprating the breaker to 15A when it’s feeding a circuit that is wired in cable that can comfortably handle well in excess of 30A will he perfectly safe. A knee-jerk reaction of NO doesn’t help the OP one iota.
  4. I hope that posts 22, 37, 39, 43, 44 and others have put OP’s mind at rest that they’ll be perfectly fine using their 15A breaker for the water pump circuit. Contributions from others who don’t understand voltage drop calculations are less than helpful.
  5. Whilst it’s true that a low voltage will raise the current I don’t think it’s relevant here as the pump clearly states 15A, which is rather a lot more than 10. As the breaker has been regularly tripping it’s been opening its contacts while several amps were flowing. So lots of arcing and hence a very limited life. The 15A breaker should be fine but should ideally never be switched while the pump is running.
  6. I think that’s likely but he described turning off the alt’s isolator.
  7. I ‘think’ I took a photo (real film, before all this digital nonsense) but sadly I’ve failed to find it over the years.
  8. Makes perfect sense but I had no idea I’d have probably found the slip end, tutted, and mumbled some comment about shoddy workmen
  9. We saw a really tiny narrowboat outside the Lime Kilns on the Ashby many years ago. I think from memory it was 12ft. Its shape was similar to a coracle - it was all swim. The bed (which almost filled the cabin) folded up into a seat and a hob folded down from the wall. Fwd of the ‘cabin’ was the toilet & shower. Motive power came from a tiny little two stroke outboard. I asked the owners how much they used it and they informed me they lived on it and had just travelled down from Liverpool. It never had to wind, it could simply spin in its own length.
  10. If Stan has the same problem it’ll take him a while to empty his full tank of water
  11. I’m the same. My two Flukes are in very distinctive Fluke bags and it’s one of those which has been recently calibrated. As it turns out, it was a waste of £35 as it hadn’t really moved from the last time. NOBODY borrows them
  12. But they do care about cable sizes and we know that no british narrowboat builder would wire a pump with 1mm2 cable. Of course it does. And it will be.
  13. I’m much the same. I spent several hours rearranging the plumbing for a new sink yesterday. Soldering copper pipes etc. I used my blowtorch, solder mat, flux and solder for the first time in a few years, but if I didn’t have them then the job couldn’t have been done without waiting days for a plumber and then paying him a few hundred quid. As for multimeters, last time I counted I have nine, I think. All but two of them work, only one has a D.C. clamp, and only one of them has been recently calibrated. They can’t charge their caps if they’re switched off though either.
  14. It’s a Liverpool boat. It says so on the switch panel.
  15. Yep, preceded by a big bold NO. So your actual assumption must have been that the cable was rated (not that cables have ratings per se) at a maximum of 10A which, as I wrote, is unlikely in the extreme.
  16. Central heating pump, mains fan... Depends. Some of ‘em use 5A just sitting doing nothing. When you eventually cave in and buy one you’ll wonder how you ever coped without one.
  17. Do you have any 2.5mm three core mains flex kicking around? If so, take one core and look at the thickness of the copper wires - ignore the insulation. Compare that to the thickness of the wires feeding the water pump. Are they similar? Which is unlikely in the extreme.
  18. And your assumption is that the pump wiring is smaller than 2mm2? My assumption would be that the cable would be at least 2.5mm2, possibly larger. Cable used in 12V circuits on boats is invariably selected to minimise voltage drop, not the smallest that can carry the current. I’ve never seen a major manufacturer use anything smaller than 2.5mm2 for wiring to the water pump.
  19. A couple of points to note. The arcing that Tony B described is most damaging to the switch contacts when you switch the pump off when it’s running, as opposed to switching it on. Switching it on and causing it to run will also arc somewhat but usually in a less damaging manner. So to lengthen the life of the switch, never switch the pump off while it’s running. Secondly, fitting an ordinary switch into the feed to the pump will avoid you having to switch that breaker off and on at all. Assuming that you have a convenient location to fit one. Any boat electrician could do this for you.
  20. Much MUCH easier and quicker to use a clamp ammeter. If OP bought the one I linked to earlier he’ll have it tomorrow. Replace it ASAP. It will completely unbalance your bank. You wouldn’t. But the BSS insists on it.
  21. When you look at the back of the panel look for any writing on the ‘switches’, specifically something like ‘6A’. When you do Alan’s test firstly check that the Shower Pump switch has the same writing as the faulty Water Pump one.
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