WotEver

That's what I was thinking, from the OP's descriptions.

@Dr Bob, as our resident chemist does this make sense?

The guys who fitted a tow bar for me a few years ago described it as FT. That is only exceeded by EFT, which involves using an extension bar on the socket handle.

I was following a procedure on my car and the manual even said what torque setting to use when reconnecting the battery terminal!

They do and they don't... lots of important information in that thread, plus the penultimate post is worthwhile.

Note that some local print shops now offer 3D printing once you have the CAD model.

I wonder if you can mix Deet into paint....

A fair price. I like the moulding of the skylights - it makes them appear lighter.

Or... one of these: https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/45mm-morse-hole-saw Plus arbour: https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/7-16-inch-shank-arbor-to-suit-hole-saws-for-32-152mm Plus arbour extension: https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/arbor-extension-for-hole-saw

Diamond tipped SDS hole cutting core drill should do it. They come up to about a foot long. You'll have to pull the cutter out regularly to clear the chips though.

Yeah, it's something I'd be happy to do for my own boat, and if it ended up taking a couple of days, so what? Not something I'd want to do on someone else's boat though.

Yup. Have you asked around if there's a poly-tunnel available anywhere?

No. They'll still be connected, just on the other side of the shunt. The reason for moving the link is so that all the power going into and out of the domestic bank goes through the shunt. If you keep the starter negative connected to the domestics then circuits can bypass the shunt (via starter negative-->engine bond-->alternator for example).

Yup, good point