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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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WotEver last won the day on July 6

WotEver had the most liked content!

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About WotEver

  • Birthday 09/10/1954

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    Er, boating!

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  • Occupation
    Video post production
  • Boat Name
    Maybe One Day We'll Get Another

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  1. I quickly made new rear door inserts from MDF (not MRMDF) on WotEver because it was all I had to hand. They rotted within a year because of the moisture trapped above the bottom return. I then remade them out of Ash when I had a bit more time.
  2. I wonder if it’s the lack of a return that’s helped? Nowhere for any moisture to stay trapped.
  3. Look for tiny screws covered in paint along the edges of the doors.
  4. I wondered the same thing but like you I can’t see that it would have any relation to the chirping.
  5. Of course we do. Where do you suppose the 15V is coming from? If indeed the 15V reading is accurate of course.
  6. Close. GRP is glass strands encapsulated in a thermosetting epoxy polymer. Heat it and it won’t melt. Plastic on the other hand, will. GRP is also pretty non-reactive to most substances whereas plastic isn’t, depending on the type. Avoid anything with Acetone in it if you’re painting plastic. Hemple is a white-spirit based paint so will probably be ok. @Dr Bob might know.
  7. Point of order m’lud. That’s a word, not a phrase...
  8. I repeat, if he’s seeing circa 15V then the alternator hasn’t ‘dropped out’. Quite the contrary. If that 15V is anything like accurate he’s also boiling his batteries.
  9. It ain’t that if he’s getting 15V displaying.
  10. It might be a trick of the camera angle but it looks to me that the blue wire has a butt crimp onto a thinner brown wire that then disappears off.
  11. I don’t know so won’t guess. I’ll leave that question for others to answer. Obviously you’d still need to abrade the existing coating whatever you use.
  12. Incorrect advice. Have you ever tried it? Vactan has been tested and approved for use in potable water systems. In such an environment it would be overcoated and so only be working as a passivating primer anyway. That’s what I did, and I had no adverse results. As others have said, if the non-rusty bits are as well adhered as you describe then I’d leave them alone. Get rid of anything loose, wire brush the rusty bits as best you can, coat the rusty bits with Vactan, then apply a potable blacking.
  13. Me neither. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=uxbridge+boat+center&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb https://www.britishmarine.co.uk/Membership/Find-a-Member/Member-Details?id=3537
  14. Indeed, they have improved hugely in that respect in the last few years.
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