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BEngo

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BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlton Adam
  • Occupation
    Retired Consulting Engineer
  • Boat Name
    Jarrah
  • Boat Location
    Circus Field

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  1. Soinds like one of more of the terminal bolts are at the Lower limits of size. (Bolt and female thread machines tend to wear so they produce undersized threads.). Might be worth talking to your friendly local fastener supplier to see if they can locate either some close tolerance bolts or some plated bolts, both of which will be nearer maximum size and so make better thread to hole contact. I cannot remember the metric terminology and my books of words is at home but I am sure a good fastener stockist will know what you are asking for. As an interim you could try some conducting grease on the threads- perhaps Coppaslip or similar. N
  2. Don't forget Beeston Iron Lock. It should be 14 ft plus, but the plates are moving and CRT don't like two narrow boats abreast in it. N
  3. The cross bar is rigidly fastened to the dip pipe and held up by the big nut and washers that are are visible in the photo. The dip tube is used to assist the friction of the crossbar and stop the bar rotating while the nut is tightened onto the soft rubber washer. N
  4. Can you turn it manually? Raised hand starting gear or a suitable spanner on the prop shaft coupling with it in gear? Does it go round OK with the decompressors operated? N
  5. There are very few engine reconditioners left and parts for a recon are scarce. Try buying pistons from Ferrari Piston Services for example! It is simply not a paying proposition in the modern world. Most boat engines are derived from construction type plant. The OEM can supply a new robot built factory replacement engine for these machines much less expensively than a labour intensive (and thus expensive) recondition. The other issue will be whether there is anything left in the engine to make it worth reconditioning. Modern designs, machine tools, and techniques are such that build tolerances are very tight and there is not much spare metal when the engine is new. Once one part is too worn to go on, many of the others will be worn out too. Vintage engines are different, and expensive, but they do not comply with the RCR ( regulations). That means that very few modern engine "reconditions" are at all well done. Be worried, be very worried about buying a De Vilbiss recon. New spray paint is cheap! Have you looked at the base price for a marinised engine from people like Beta, Barrus (Shire not the Shanks)or even Vetus? That will give you an idea of what Colecraft want to install the engine and what you might 'save' if you were able to do all the installation work yourself. Then get a quote to install from someone like Redshaws or JG Marine. The other possibility is to buy a new base engine and marinise it yourself, if you have the skills. You will have to buy the marinisation parts from someone like Beta, or Vetus which will be dearer than buying them as part of a new engine, but you should be able to save the labour costs of assembly. Kubota and Mitsubishi are popular base engines. Having modified the engine, the warranty will be your problem. N
  6. My parallelogram linkage was mainly 25 mm square by x 3 mm RHS. You do need do get the bit that goes into the gearbox spindle the right shaped taper, or you will damage the gearbox spindle. N
  7. The original Springer set up for the blade to stock was very similar, IIRC, and equally prone to the rudder blade becoming disconnected from the stock. The Springer rams head was separate from the stock and held to that by two bolts. The advantage of the scousers method to the builder is that they don't have to worry about how the rams head is secured and aligned to the rudder stock. No tapers to machine or fabricate, just weld it up and adjust the blade after fitting. N
  8. Have something like the Argos one. They are carp. All right for shining off wax on a car where the paint is already shiny but not for dealing with dull paint. The screwfix tool is like what you want, but that one seems a bit fast. 600 rpm will have polish everywhere. Screwfix descriptions are not renowned for their accuracy of detail though, so it might be worth asking to see /try one if you have a local store. 150-200 rpm is what you want to achieve. Then you need some sponge mops. Blue or white (firm) for cutting, pink (soft or very soft) for finishing. N
  9. Richard is right. The lever I had had a nasty habit of breaking at the top of the taper that fits into the gearbox operating spindle. The most spectacular occurrence was when selecting reverse whilst stonking into Stoke Prior lock on a Saturday at about 3 p.m. watched by an assortment of waiting would-be Black Prince hirers. The subsequent stop at the top cill was abrupt! I modified it by making a collar for the spindle, with a hefty bolt right through the collar with a tapered middle portion to fit into the spindle then a parallelogram linkage off the collar to an operating lever about 36 in long. It was still a hard shove to get it in gear. N
  10. The hull is a Springer, or a copy. The steel cabin is not. Probably originated as one of Sam's hull only boats with the purchaser adding a wooden top which has since been replaced by a steel one. From the pictures it seems possible that the stellar cabin is actually an overclad of the woodwork. N
  11. A variable speed sander polisher, with either a hook-loop backing pad or a screw on sponge mop are good for polishing. Makita make a good one, but pricey, Axminster used to have an own brand one that would be good enough for occasional DIY work. Halfords do, or did, a 240 V orbital one, which was a real chocolate teapot. The 12v ones are even worse. N
  12. If it is the same size as the steel it will not be as strong as the steel, by quite a long way. I suspect the Al channel will be strong enough, but very "bouncy". I would also be worried about the effects of landing on the deck after a rapid descent from a dockside ( aka 'jump'). Aluminium is also more expensive than steel, but you may have a 'deal' lined up. You may have a dissimilar metal corrosion problem where the Al meets the steel. I could dig the formulas out and do the stress and deflection calcs, but really don't have the time for a couple of days at least, sorry. N
  13. Vid does not tell me much. The smoke could be coming from the exhaust gasket which is behind the manifold with the Calcutt logo. I am not sure about the liquid drip. If the engine has regularly been overheated you are quite likely to be looking at a warped head as well as a duff gasket. I would look out the cost of a recon head, fully populated with valves etc. and ready to drop on. Otherwise you may be able to get it planed/milled/ground flat by a machine shop, depending o the degree of warp. I would also look out the cost of a recon engine. As it is easier to work in the warm and dry this may be a similar price to paying someone to work in a cold damp engine ole. N
  14. You can use the plastic ones if you ensure that they never see any hot water at more than 65 C. How you do this depends on how your hot water is heated. I would use the metal ones just in case, and because the plastic ones are unlikely to last well at 65C. Central heating is the supply to the rads and heating coil in the calorifier, where fitted-only. These pipes are typically too hot for too long to succesfully use plastic valves. Supply to the taps, calorifier outlet etc. is called domestic hot water. Ensure you support all plastic pipes which will get more than just warm very carefully. They sag summat 'orrible between support points once they get hot. N
  15. Not really. It is the difference between a quick fix and wave the owner goodbye and a job that can reasonably be expected to do several more years boating/battery charging. It is also a reminder that "How much?!!!" is influenced by the location. London is a bloody awful place to do jobs like this, and has extra costs all of it's own. N
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