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BEngo

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BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlton Adam

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired Consulting Engineer
  • Boat Name
    Jarrah
  • Boat Location
    Circus Field

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  1. The impact makes the prop shaft wobble and this compresses the packing in the gland leaving a slightly larger gap and the water gets in. After the prop has cleared the shaft wobble stops and the packing recovers its original shape (nearly). At the same time the grease flows slowly in to start filling the bigger gap. Together these effects stop or nearly stop the water entering. N The outer end, not the inner end. I think whoever fitted the OP's gland has not used enough packing, or the packing is too small. N
  2. Went there on the Explorer last year. V weedy then. Not quite as bad on the arm as at the junction with the main line. About 90 mins in and 45 out, with the pumps on. Raked the weed out of the blades in every bridgehole, but no need to dive the weed hatch. No depth issues at 2 ft 6 in static draught. It was dredged earlier this year, and is much easier according to BCNS but don't know if that was a proper dredge or a CRT idea of a dredge. Suspect the latter and in any event the weed will grow back quickly without frequent traffic to keep it down. Bradley workshops well worth a visit. N
  3. Relating to the GU. Diagonally means nose on one side at the bottom gate, stern on the other. The pull from the bottom paddles will usually straighten you up and the boat will move back off the gate by itself as the lock reaches nearly empty. This is a good signal you can open a gate. The wind will finally decide which side of the lock the boat ends up on, assisted by deflections off lock houses, the lock walls etc. When going in down hill the unopened gate will usually swing fully open if you don't hook it shut. The paddles will then not close it. I have seen it done with a rope, but the shaft is easier. You only need to start the gate moving the right way, so it is mostly shut. If using the shaft you can let go at any time, and then recover the shaft after you are otherwise sorted. ( Assumes your shaft will float !) Go in slowly, so there is time to do all the things that need to be done. Open the paddle on the bow side first, ideally, but it is not vital. The wind will It is best to keep well clear of the bottom gate going up. Leave enough room at the bow for the rush of water from the ground paddle to be clear of the bow (otherwise the bow washes across at first then comes back with a thump). No need for reverse gear-the boat will come forward slowly if you lift the top paddles in the right sequence. It will usually run up onto the timber cill bumpers then on to the gate. Sometimes it will just go to the gate. N
  4. Going up, do not be tempted to stick the nose into the V of the gates whilst setting the lock. Whilst this is fine in a narrow lock, and will save much time, on the GU at least the stern will thrash happily from side to side, saving you the effort of removing stuff from shelves! N
  5. Downhill. Set up then put the boat into the lock diagonally. The other top gate will start to swing open on most locks, so hook the gate handrail to shut with the cabin shaft as you go past, having checked at the first lock that the hook is not too tight a fit on the handrail. Get off with centre rope, shut remaining top gate, open bottom paddles, open 1 gate, climb down ladder with rope, leave, stop and tidy up. Going up. Set lock, open a gate and drive in. Some prefer to rope in. If not roping get off up ladder with rope. Get boat alongside 1 wall about 10 ft back from the cill. Shut gate. Rapidly and fully Raise top paddle on same side as boat. Then immediately Raise gate paddles on opposite side. Wait for circular flow to stabilise with boat on the wall. It will creep forward to cill, then gates. Raise the remaining ground paddle half way. Don't use the boat side gate paddles unless there is a mega leak at the tail. When lock full exit normally , stop and tidy up. Go steady, but keep going. Watch, think and be aware of any problems to nip them in the bud. Always wait if there is another boat with crew about, but do expect to work your own side when with another. N
  6. Not only is the height relevant but so is the distance from the centreline. If you have replaced pavers all over the baseplate with a row of steel blocks down the centre line then the boat will feel more tender. If the steel blocks are shared out between the edges it will be stiffer than with the pavers. It is all to do with moments of inertia and metacentric height as well as sheer mass. N
  7. Wyvern Shipping at Leighton Buzzard. Close to the station though not as close as Heyford. Handy for the Chilterns or go to Stoke Bruerne, Blisworth Tunnel and the Waterways Museum. Also Puddling Cruises out of Milton Keynes Marina. Same options, wider boat. N
  8. BEngo

    What tool to use?

    Tell that to the A35 van wheel that parted company with its hub at 60 mph on the East Kilbride bypass. I was outside a truck at the time so life was briefly somewhat hairy. The studs had quite clearly been overloaded, probably by a gorilla tyre fitter. N
  9. BEngo

    Ruston 4VSH and 2VSH

    Your rolling head refurb sounds like a good plan to me. If you cannot find NOS head gaskets or other specials like sandwich exhausts, Gaskets to Go (Google) are very good and well priced IMO. Usual disclaimer. You will certainly need to change the blade if you fit a 2 cyl instead of a 4. I would guess it will involve more than reducing the pitch and holding the diameter, unless you are happy to be rather inefficient. Shafting, box etc should be OK provided the box mounting to the engine is the same. You may need to adjust the control runs to new locations. N
  10. Yes, a water cooled manifold is a simply a water space surrounding the manifold. The plug which leaks may either be a core or welch plug put there to fill the hole needed as part of the making of the water space, or a tapping for a water pipe to or from something like a cab heater. N P.S. .As it is an Italian engine it probably needs an Italian tune-up.
  11. Tony, I think you are oversimplifying the wiring. There must be a fuse between the battery and the controller to protect the cabling from a short powered by the battery. For this reason the fuse should be as close as practicable to the battery. Tracer suggest 15 cm as a max distance. There does not need to be fuse between panels and controller , for the reasons you state. N
  12. The deck hatch can be of limited utility. In many boats, the distance from the stern deck to the base of the weed hatch proper is such that unless you have really long arms it is very hard to reach the prop shaft, let alone the bottom blade. That means either getting on the counter and diving the weed hatch that way, or poking around with a shaft or, even worse, Bargee Bill's Prop scratcher. In that event you are better off having a rake out from the bank in a bridgehole or a (full) lock. The OP's hatch really only makes it a bit easier to get the real weed hatch lid off. The trunk version, where the weed hatch tube extends to the stern deck, is better only if the builder has flared the hole so it is as big as possible at the top, but it still tends to be a head and shoulders down the tube job to reach anything. N.
  13. You won't be liable for Council Tax. Can't say about other taxes like Income or Capital Gains. N
  14. If the oojymaflip is a lift pump, and it does look a bit like one, there must be a third pipe from it that is not shown in the pics. On that basis I think the mystery pipe might be a vent, which stops crankcase pressure from holding the pump diaphragm in the up position against the spring. Someone has extended it to a bottle to catch the odd drips of oil which come with crankcase vapours. It may even have originally been connected to the airfilter housing or the air inlet pipery. Otherwise it is perhaps a drain off so that a diaphragm split or other leak cannot allow diesel into the sump and cause a runaway or wreck the bearings from diluted oil. If the bottle is not filling up there ain't a problem IMO. N
  15. Ideally, you want the highest capacity pump you can afford and that will fit in the spaces available. Normally, it may only have to pump out a bit of rainwater or the stern tube drips, but if you ever get flooded by, say, a wrongly opened gate paddle or an overtopping gate you will be glad to have the extra capacity. You may even spring a serious leak one day. N
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