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BEngo

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BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

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About BEngo

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlton Adam

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired Consulting Engineer
  • Boat Name
    Jarrah
  • Boat Location
    Circus Field

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  1. ⁹Where are you measuring the temperatures? What are the inlet and outlet temperatures at the heater after at least an hour with everything on? What are the inlet and outlet temperatures at the cauliflower? What size are the rads? N
  2. Why a hard standing fit out? Everything, including the fitters out, has to go up in the air on the way in, and up and down on the way out again if it needs adjusting. This makes it much harder work than an alongside fit-out. The attitude of the boat will not be the same as when it is in the water and you will only see if the ballasting is correct when the boat is afloat and the ballast at the most difficult to change much. Even the professionals do bespoke fit out in the water (though I accept the production line East European or Chinese ones are ashore). Afloat fit out space is also much easier to find. N
  3. Bronze ram as built, I think. Bronze body. Max static head will be the vertical distance from the base of the pump housing to the top of your header tank. Max dynamic head is not going to be a lot more- I would guess about 10ft or so. You might be able to measure it with a (BIG) manometer🙂 N
  4. A tubular or box spanner is a better bet, but if using one like David suggests, put two on at once, with the handles opposite each other. This balances the thrusts so there is only twisting force on the immersion and enables you to easily apply both hands to the job so applying most force. From your pictures the existing heater looks well scaled in! N
  5. You can do the base in the ACS slip too, and it is probably nearer, though if the OP is hoping for a slot soon the stoppage list will need to be consulted wherever he goes. N
  6. Certainly would not go for graphite. Filthy stuff! Nor glass fibre. Too hard and may cause rapid wear if/when not well lubricated. Cotton probably is softer than flax, but with a chrome finish on the ram that will probably not make much difference. PTFE will self lubricate but is probably more costly. PTFE for lubrication. The important thing is to check the chosen packing is OK with a sliding seal - some packings are designed only for rotating seals and then have to be fitted the right way. I am sure Walkers will make a reccomend if you give them the details of the application. Remember to tell them it will be in intermittent use with longish idle spells. N
  7. Who is underwriting and/or clearing this noodles derivative? What fee are they expecting and who is meeting it? Where is the proof of title to be held and how will the sold 50% of the noodles be marked to show that they are owned separately? Who will own and operate the Noodle Management System? The offer is also unclear as to whether the sale includes the duckness or whether the sale is pure noodles. N
  8. Make sure the bilges are empty and any auto pumps set to off. The Scout church parade in Blisworth one Sunday many years ago were the unfortunate recipients of the contents of my bilges as the lorry swung round the corner and the "water" piled up and set the auto pump running. N
  9. Theoretically at lest you should be able to use an O-ring seal but that would mean a different follower. Practically, I did try one, with good results for about 12 months, but once it failed it was pissing out water, where a packed item fails gracefully. Two woven packing rings is all there now is in mine. Forget exactly what, but I bought a 50 m box from Walkers and expect it to see me out! Last time I changed it was ages ago. If you wanted space for another ring of packing you would need to modify the pump, not the follower. Not something I would contemplate. Might be worth considering a grease nipple on the follower with an outlet hole positioned to lubricate the packing? Bet the nipple would end up where grease gun access was impossible. I would also worry about grease getting in the coolant. N
  10. Be very careful to ensure that you do not shut too many stop cocks at once. You mustc keep a water circuit open through the boatman if it is lit. Otherwise you will probably burst the back boiler if you are lucky and have an explosion if you are not. The engine is also not going to like being overheated. Better to try and trace the pipework and draw a diagram showing where the stop taps are, before you start twiddling. N
  11. Epifanes varnish with UV filter, or Le Tonkinois varnish. About 10 coats needed initially then maintenance coats each year whilst in use according to how much use or exposure to the wrather it gets. Do not let ash get and stay wet. It will go 'orribly black like a neglected Morris Minor Traveller rear body frame. N
  12. The hooters £20, provided they are 12V ones. £15 if the tablecloth comes too. N
  13. For the base, up to about 10mm and the sides the norm is 50 mm x 4 mm plus equal RSA knees spaced so you can get a paving slab between each pair of knees and a horizontal of similar sized angle about half way up the hull. Over 10 mm bottom it doesn't much matter! Just use something convenient to support the floors. For the cabin sides it depends on thickness. A 4mm side will only need tags to hold the battens and some framing supports round the windows. 3 mm will want stiffening like a roof. For the roof most use 25mm sq x 3 mm thick RHS at 610 mm centres, so an 8x4 sheet can easily be fixed. A really thin or bouncy roof may need more. Adjust spacing if you are using some odd sized timber or sheet insulation. If you can curve it to suit, 25 mm equal angle, web up is better as there is no water trap beteen roof and stiffener. T bar is even better, but dearer. N
  14. In shipyard work the plates were edge planed after shearing, then holes were punched, often undersized before transfer to the build slip for riveting. Where undersized holes were punched they were enlarged with a drill on site, to match the plate they were fitting. N
  15. Stern bearing. May be rubber lined (cutless bearing) or whitemetal. Is there a grease lubricator inside? If so it is whitemetal. Iz there a water inlet on the far side? That would be for a cutless bearing. N
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