Jump to content

BEngo

Administrator Donate to Canal World
  • Posts

    4126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

BEngo had the most liked content!

5 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlton Adam

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired Consulting Engineer
  • Boat Name
    Jarrah
  • Boat Location
    Circus Field

Recent Profile Visitors

11532 profile views

BEngo's Achievements

519

Reputation

  1. When copper pipe is made, it is drawn through a die. That means it is already somewhat work hardened, and does not want to be bent, so the other trick with bending the bigger sizes on a spring is to re-anneal the pipe at the bend site before you start. You only need to get it very hot with a big gas blowlamp. You can cool it in water if you are in a rush, or just wait. Then you can do 28 mm across your knee. Annealing also makes it easier with the Rothenberger type benders, and eliminates the wrinkly bits on the inside of the bend. N
  2. It is a rather distant connection. (See wot I did there). Amphenol ( a specialist manufacturer of high quality plugs and sockets AKA interconnects but not to be confused with cell-to-cell interconnectors) are saying that electric car makers need specialised connectors to suit their production designs and techniques, including the connectors needed for battery monitoring and management systems, and that the connector makers are responding to the EV makers requirements and can supply what they want. Ground breaking stuff. N
  3. I would look to run a flat water pump pulley on the back of the poly V belt driving the large alternator. It looks like there is some structure to support a pump and if you position it right you will get enough extra belt wrap on both existing pulleys to counterbalance the extra load on the belt. You will need a longer belt and the layout will need to be accurate, so a certain amount of scale drawing is needed once you have worked out the right size pump pulley to give the flow rate needed. A ritzy solution would use a double sided belt and a poly v pulley on the new pump. N
  4. Eithrr will do, but I would go for the thicker stuff. N
  5. You might get away with it, but a gasket of some form will produce better results. Ordinary cardboard from a cereal packet , well hylomared both sides or brown paper, two thicknesses oiled on the outsides with Hylomar in the inside, like a sandwich, will do if it is urgent. Otherwise there is lots of proper gasket paper on Amazon or E bay, in small (A4) sheets for not much money. Google "gasket paper" or "klingerit statite". N
  6. That looks like a leak round the injector body. If left it will get worse and may damage the head. The cure is to remove the injector, clean up the injector face and the bottom of the hole where the injector goes, and refit, renewing any sealing washers. Depending on the age of the engine it might be worth removing all the injectors and having them serviced whilst you are disturbing the pipework. N
  7. BEngo

    Blacking

    You can no longer use pitch epoxy. It was banned a while back, because it contained tar. There are other, more expensive, epoxy based paints available. You can even get them in different colours so you can see where you have painted. As said above you really need to have the boat abrasive blasted before you apply epoxy. There are products which claim to be compatible with bitumen based coatings, but you are then relying on the existing bitumen as the coat sticking your expensive new epoxy to the steel. Applying epoxy is not much harder than applying bitumen. You need a good stirrer to mix the two parts together. One of the drill powered ones is good, or a couple of washers welded edge on to on a bit of steel bar in a mains drill. Pick the right stuff and roller and brush works for getting it on the boat. Some epoxies can be HVLP sprayed too. Temperature is important for the epoxy to cure so you need to do the job in late Spring through early Autumn, or find a heated dock/slipway. In all cases read the instructions, data sheet and safety information carefully, then do what it says. As far as benefit over bitumen goes, you really need to be keeping the boat for at least 10 years to get the benefits. The best part is that the epoxy does not get dissolved by the permanent thin layer of diesel on the canal water, so waterline rusting is eliminated. The next good bit is that epoxy is quite slippery, so weed growth eventually washes off as you are boating. Epoxy is tougher than bitumen, so tends to survive normal bumps and grinds better, though it still wears away on the guard irons. Docking intervals can be extended from 2 years and the work needed at each docking is reduced to pressure washing then treating and recoating any areas of mechanical damage. I have tended to put an extra coat on every 4 years, but that was just me, not really merited by the state of the epoxy. You can expect the epoxy to last at least 10 years if well maintained. Mine was done first in 2010 and survives still, despite the best part of 500 hours boating every year since. N
  8. In a perfect world, he is right. The proper repair is to cut out the bad and let in new plate of suitable thickness. In the real world this is not always practicable. Replacement plate means stripping ( and probably renewing some or all of) the fit out, . It may also mean an engine and gearbox removal. This can can make the job financially unviable. In riveted craft renewal is also as a likely as overplating to cause rivet problems. For large areas of renewal structural support of the remaining boat during repair can be a problem too. Overplating does not have these problems, and is relatively low cost. It may make it possible to realise value from a hull that is otherwise scrap. That is not to say that overplating is easy. You need to choose a competent plater and welder who will ensure that the over plating is watertight and properly secured to the sub structure and original plate. Sufficient Plug welds or àsimilar are important in big areas. You have to do the whole of the job- guard irons off, repairs to framing if needed, ring welded rivets etc. etc....Then the owner needs to deal with the consequences of adding weight. The surveyor does have a role here- if recommending overplating the Surveyor should remind the owner that ballast adjustment will be needed. The examples chosen were clearly selected to support the Surveyors view point. They are though a good example of a bodge. Why the job was a bodge, I don't know. I suspect money, and the availability of a local welder and dock may have been factors. Overall though I don't think they are examples that are actually helpful to the quoted Surveyor's argument. IMO it would have been more useful to have identified the criteria for a good overplating job, using the photos and his arguments as counter examples. N
  9. Do not leave it too long. Every time the PRV goes off it is because your cauliflower has been over pressurized. That leads to a short life for the cal. The expansion vessel can be anywhere on the hot side of the cal, so fit it where it is easy to get at and pressurise it to pump cut out pressure. N
  10. Try Michael Patterson. Contact via the Aylesbury Canal Society number on their website. It might be a bit far for him, though he has done work in Southampton. He is a coded welder. N
  11. Try Trevor Oxley. Oxley Marine, Tring, Herts., Tel: 07931 339291 N
  12. MtB. The antifreeze part of antifreeze lasts forever, provided you top up with ready mixed antifreeze. The corrosion inhibitors wear out/get used up. All you need to do is add some more central heating corrosion inhibitor. That is designed for a mixture of steel, brass and copper. I am sure you have a favourite brand but I have used the Screwfix own brand- currently flomasta for about 10 years, adding 500ml every other year. The J2 has not fallen apart yet. N PS- you can test your antifreeze by putting a sample in the freezer. If it goes solid it needs some more!
  13. Fitting solar panels is not difficult. Selecting the right panels and controller is probably the potentially complicated part. You need to be competent mechanically, to fix the panels to the boat; competent electrically, to select and install the cabling, controller and fuses and you need to have/buy the right tools. A bit of confidence helps too! Only you can say if you have what is needed, but lots of people seem to manage at least a simple set up. Rules of thumb appear to be: Flexible panels do not last very long MPPT are better controllers than PWM Not all controllers badged MPPT actually are. Do not expect much contribution from solar between October and April. N
  14. The latest CRT statement does not make sense. The worn heel post is at the bottom gates so any water turbulence is going to be in the tail of the lock whilst full and emptying. It is quite easy to arrange that there is no boat in the tail while emptying. Turbulence in the lock cannot be worse than when empty and filling with both ground paddles and the gate paddles fully up. Or are they saying so much water is passing the lower gates so it is causing a dangerous flow over the top sill? Given there is 10 miles of pound above the lock ot seems unlikely a Huddersfield Narrow type cilling might result. Anyone there who can explain what the real situation is? N
  15. I wonder if the damage was caused by fitting a chromed ring in a Listard chromed bore. Or because the liner wear ridge can was not honed or scraped out/ a stepped ring not fitted and the new top ring has hit the ridge and broken (aided and abetted by different tolerances on the new piston or big end bearing perhaps). May even be as simple as a ring breaking whilst being fitted or the ring gap too small. Should not happen, but does, some sources being worse than others. N
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.