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BEngo

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BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlton Adam

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired Consulting Engineer
  • Boat Name
    Jarrah
  • Boat Location
    Circus Field

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  1. Leave the jump lead connected when you go home. That way your battery charger will keep the starter battery topped up at the same time as the domestics. If you are feeling flush, consider getting a two output battery charger. N
  2. People seem to be happy with their expensive sealed deep cycle batteries providing the 300 odd amps needed to feed a 3 kVA inverter at full output though. That, I think, is a similar load to most modern automotive or plant derived engine starters. Not as much as a fully loaded BS5 or 6 though. On that basis I can see no real risk in an infrequent jump start from the domestics especially when, as in this case the OP says they are fully charged. The couple of Ah needed are going to come straight off the surface of the plates. The OP will need a new start battery though as
  3. If the cables are heating up massively current is going somewhere. What size are the cables? The crimped lugs have 2 numbers on. The first number is the cable size. Should be 25 or preferably bigger. Is the starter motor turning the engine over? What is different between yesterday when it ran and now? The battery should be big enough. Make sure it is fully charged- voltage at about 14.4 V and current at 5 A or less and holding steady for an hour. If the final current is higher than 5 A or the voltage will not get to 14.4 the battery has expired.
  4. Take some pictures of the engine mounts and post them here. We can then opine. You may get asked for detail or close ups of a possibly dodgy one. N PS. Sucking of teeth and muttering are currently subject to COVID social distancing requirements.
  5. All wooden cabins leak, sooner or later. Once the leaks start they rot, fairly quickly, if they are not sorted out. The Lister-Petter SW2 is a water cooled version of the almost unbreakable SR2, and share many parts. They were not a common engine. We had one for 5 years with the only problem in that time being the crankshaft oil seal, which was a PITA to get to, but simple to fix. The Jabsco cooling pump impellers may now be hard to find. MES (Midlands) can tell you about spares. N
  6. Thee is no real sense of scale, so I could be miles out, but the skin tank looks to be as thick as the engine/motor bearer is wide. Unless the bearer is only about 50mm wide the skin tank is going to be a lot thicker than it should be for greatest effectiveness. I would also want to see the bearers fully welded along the inner edge, but that may be due later. The angled water pipe and the notched bearer are a bit lazy, but insignificant. The vent on top of the skin tank is an important detail missed by many. N
  7. The only requirements are those set by your insurance company and your skills and intestinal fortitude. Mostly you need to apply common sense and seamanship. Proper Anchor and kit, life raft or life jackets at least, clean fuel, fresh filters. Boat preparation for being in a seaway. Etc. As said above it is not practical to do Cumberland basin to Sharpness on one tide in a normal narrow boat. Most folks overtide at Portishead marina. For an all daylight passage you could instead anchor at Pill in the Avon just above the M5 Bridge and then catch the flood to Sharpness. W
  8. That is not bad for a 30 year old boat. As a start you are looking at getting the worst pits welded up. The 4.8 and less ones. The rest of the hull is fine. The chine angle is also fine until the next docking at least so no worries yet, and is neither difficult nor mega expensive to fix (outside London). The rest of the boat wants grit blasting and an epoxy two pack. Zinga as well would be a bit Rolls Royce and is only really of benefit if the epoxy coating is damaged. That will stop any further problems for at least 10 years, longer if you are not inten
  9. Conversely, on a cold morning without the heating having been on, put a kettle on and allow it to boil for a few minutes. The condensation on the sides and roof will occur first on the stiffening struts. N
  10. Such information as existed in the pre-nationalisation railway companies was first inherited by BR. Whether and when or how it was transferred to DIWE I do not know. Certainly it took some time for BR to sort out and transfer the railway owned canals, but they all made it to DIWE ( Oh, do we get those as well?) eventually and then on to BWB. Whether a thorough examination of the big fours archives was conducted I would doubt. Much easier to send the more easily separated engineering drawings and the high level Management Minutes than to worry about the detail of boats. That
  11. Have a look at your cones. They may need relining. The gearbox to block gasket may also be thicker than original. With new linings (ex factory) there should be about 1 turn from ahead to astern. With new, modern, slightly thicker than the imperial originals, linings there is no more than a quarter turn either way from neutral to in gear. My J arrangement is chain reduced by about 2:1 from the gear wheel to the thrust box. It goes in and out nicely with about one turn either way from neutral and will stay in gear at tick over for at least the length of the Golden
  12. I am curious. Do you have any pictures please? N
  13. The problem of sticking in gear by the Kelvin box is much ameliorated (not eliminated tho) if the cones are the lined ones. The metal to metal ones are inclined to form ridges and these interlock after a spell of high pressure. The rivets in the lined cones can also cause the problem when the linings are well worn. Can you not start up on petrol Graham? N
  14. 9/16 whit is bigger than any stern gland pusher thread I have ever seen. The nuts will be about an inch AF. The thread is sized by outside diameter, not the nut size. Is the 9/16 the nut AF ? If so they are more likely to be UNC as Tracy suggests, or possibly 5/16 WW. N
  15. Lower diagram is the only way to get any gain. As above, to prevent the pumps internal switches 'fighting' each other fit a single, stand alone, pressure switch in the delivery line, after the acc ideally, and use this to switch both pumps. A Schneider square D has two sets of contacts so you can use one set for each pump. N
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