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BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

BEngo had the most liked content!

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About BEngo

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    Charlton Adam

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    Retired Consulting Engineer
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    Circus Field

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  1. Since the normal bearing was steel on iron/steel with sufficient allowance to be a "rattling good fit" and with minimal lubrication I doubt that any considerations of wear or balanced load drifted across the designers mind. N
  2. Yes the baffle plate still nedds to be a counter level. You will need very long arms to reach down from the deck above- remember that you may need to get at something wedged at the lower edge of the prop. The spare tap could makre a sight glass, but BSS generally does not like them and has a heap of special requirements. The bottom tap needs to spring close for example and you would need a top fitting, not just an open pipe. Read the BSS guide for all the gory details. N
  3. I would approach the OP's problem from an energy perspective. Assuming the best/worst case of anchor sets immediately how much energy do I have to absorb. That is determined by the speed and the mass of your boat when the anchor grabs. Most of it will be sbsorbed by the octoplait stretching, so how much strain energy will octoplait accept in a given length. Does that stretch the rope enough to break it? If not the gear is strong enough. I have anchored a narrowboat, but it was deliberate, not emerrgency brake stuff. In the Avon at Pill above the M5 bridge. That was OK. Getting the gear back was hard. If you have successfully stopped in extremis getting the hook back would be a bonus, but there will be time for that after solving the root problem. N
  4. Now makx a note to clean it all out again next Spring! N
  5. Red lead is a primer so it should be covered up as soon as it is properly set. Whether BW did that or not is a good question. N
  6. BEngo

    Injector Puller

    First thing is to loosen the fastenings a couple of turns (DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY) and try to start the engine. That will often loosen the injectors enough to pull them out. Beware of lots of smoke! If not,0 I have a purpose made slide hammer for Kelvin injector bodies. It screws in where the injector drain screw fits. If you can get into the spaces under the securing bolt holes or any 'ears' on the injector then wedges can be effective. For a CAV or similar body with a cap nut over the setting nut I would make up a hollow ended piece to screw onto the injector body and attach to a slide hammer. If you remember to take the injectors out about once a year they will usually come out without tools. Heavy on copper washers tho. Put coppaslip on the the outside whe refitting if they are a close fit into the head. N0
  7. Mad O'Rourkes Pie Factory is another. If you can still eat a pie after lunchtime fish and chips in the BCLM, that is. N
  8. I think you will find that most liveaboard canal craft are designed by the first owner and the builders. There are very few pure design houses, if any, as none immediately spring to mind. There are three sets of constraints: The design of the underlying steelwork, which is generally a stock product customisable to a greater or lesser extent for things like length, engine, doors, windows etc, but not in the basic bow and stern shape, cabin dimensions and shape. Things like disability solutions can seriously limit the choice of hull builder if you want experience in a special field. The next is the capability of the boatfitter and his team. These will often make decision requests and solution proposals to the buyer. The final one is the first buyer, and the depth of their pockets and their wants or needs. Together they have managed to supply all but a tiny fraction of the demand (Think boats like Dover or Whitfield for examples where someone outside the build chain drove the design aspects) within a pretty small cottage industry. High end naval architecture, as in yachts and super yachts and interior design thereof may offer more prospects. Regards N
  9. For that money you can buy a sheet of 25 mm vermiculite and have some left over as spare. You can easily cut vermiculite with even a cheapy hard point saw. N
  10. Butyl tape or closed cell foam tape are both fine for windows. Seals Direct do the latter. Butyl sealant is also available in tubes for your gunge gun. Google " seamseal CV " ( no quotes) for tape and tubes. N
  11. Start at the fuel connection on the engine where the pipe comes from the tank and work along each item in the fuel chain. Loosen each connection and allow fuel to flow out until there are no bubbles. Tighten the connection and move on to the next. The fuel filter will have a bleed screw, or screws, use these if they are obvious rather than the pipe connections, though the pipe connections will usually work. The main injection pump will also have a bleed screw. Find this and use it. Post a close up pic and someone will tell you which is the bleed. Once you have bled to the injection pump, and the injection pump itself, loosen the pipe to the injector at the injector end and crank the engine until fuel comes out, then tighten. Tighten the connection whilst cranking if possible. Turn the engine over and you should hearthe injector creak. If so it is all bled OK. N
  12. But where the duck are the noodles now? N
  13. Within reason. After about 2 m of pipe the effort required to push the grease through starts to rise, particularly if the grease is very cold or has been sitting around in the tube. My own set up has the greaser in the engine ole, about 2.5 m ahead of the stern tube and serving both the plummer block and the stern tube. N
  14. Wot Murflynn said, but another possible source is your domestic water system. Does the waterpump occasionally run for short periods for no apparent reason? Or go 'BurrP' in the night from time to time? If so you may have a leak in the water piping. In the meantime bale out the two inches of water, or suck it out with a Wet n Dry vac, then chuck some disposable nappies into the space. Check these every couple of days and replace when soggy. Leave the hatch off whenever you are not aboard, so the air can get in to help things dry out. N
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