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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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BEngo last won the day on December 19 2017

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About BEngo

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    Charlton Adam

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    Retired Consulting Engineer
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    Circus Field

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  1. Italian drivers understand that horns, like many other characteristics, are best if exercised reguarly. Driving in Rome demonstrates that the shortest possible measurable interval of time is that between a traffic light changing and the driver four back in the queue exercising their horn. Once your horn is functional again I suggest you toot it frequently so it remains functional. If the hooter itself is at fault get one off a FIAT. N
  2. Try Allfix for decent quality brass fasteners. They supplied my order of a mix of Imperial and Metric fasteners last time Jarrah was painted. None have failed yet. N
  3. Yes. You could even make up a proper lead with wingnuts for easy disconnect. N N
  4. Old engines are easy to maintain, generally. All they require is a wipe over frequently, check that nothing is loose, leaking or otherwise awry. Fix as needed. Then do oil and filters regularly. Make sure the coolant is up to strength every autumn, and again if it leaks. Fixing them can be more of a challenge. You need the right non-metric spanners and, the hardest part, the right parts. Getting parts is the same as building a network. You need to talk to other owners and learn who has what, where and when. That said Gardners are not too bad. The 1L2 was a common laboratory engine and there are a few about. Gardner parts may even have bits. N
  5. I used 2 in steel water pipe, from Pipeline Center. 1 1/2 in should be fine, but have a look at your engine manual for any special requirements Either rent a pipe threading wrench from a hire shop, or buy a selection of steel barrel nipples when you buy the pipe. Then cut the nipples in half and weld them on the end of the pipe where you need a male thread. Welding is less hard physically than cutting a thread, unless you rent an electric machine. Use swept bends not elbows for going round corners. You can get weld-together pipe fittings, but threaded ones are easier to assemble in situ. Whatever sort of fitting you pick, incorporate pipe unions here and there so you can assemble it all easily and more importantly dismantle it. Buy or borrow some BIG stilsons- 36 in is about OK for 2 in pipe. Slather all threaded joints and the mating faces of any pipe unions with a high-temperature copper grease, (e.g. Coppaslip ) or after a few weeks running it will never again come apart. Fit a flexible section near the engine, and another between the silencer and the outlet. Consider some sort of sound absorbing mounting for the silencer. You can get better priced lagging wrap than from MS- Google "exhaust wrap" - EG: Exhaustwraponline have 30m of 2 in wide 550C tape, with 6 stainless cable ties for £29.99, delivered. Stainless Jubilee clips are also good for holding the wrap on and are much easier to get really tight than metal cable ties. Fit one at either end of each section of wrap and overlap the tape really well- about 2/3 overlap is best, half overlap is OK and uses less tape. With a 50% overlap you need about 2 m of tape for every 300 mm of pipe run. Bigger is better for silencers, but it has to fit, not be too close to anything that will not like getting hot, not make routine servicing impossible and be get-attable. N
  6. This one was around in the early 80's when I was at Culdrose. Back then it was the Captain of HMS Seahawk that got the bill from the parents and replied with a bill for the helicopter time (a Wessex in those days). I don't think 771 Naval Air Squadron even have the SAR task any longer, since SAR went commercial. N
  7. The felt ring and bronze spiral I described are at the gearbox end, so they are not your problem. From your arrow I would expect it to be either the front crankshaft oil seal, or the camshaft oil seal , as mentioned by Richard earlier, or the gasket behind the housing indicated by your arrow. Can you check all the nuts/bolts through it are still tight? N
  8. The rope walk at Hawes in Yorkshire will do what you want I think. ropemakers.co.uk N
  9. Meths is not pure methanol. It is methylated spirit. The spirit is Ethanol or ethyl alcohol C2H5OH with methanol added, and a blue dye to make it unlike any food. Because it is ethanol or drinking alcohol you can get p'd on it, but the methanol is poisonous, will eventually make you blind, and may kill you. It is good for starting a primus, tillley lamp or paraffin blowlamp though. N
  10. (Proper) Mini wheels are fine, but avoid low profile rubber😀. Barrow wheels some times work, but not always. N
  11. Do other electrical things like the lights still work? If not the battery is flat, or the isolator is OFF or the master fuse has expired. Is the water pump switched ON? Are there two wires still connected to the water pump? Is there voltage (about 12, maybe as much as 14 with engine running) at the water pump terminals? If so the fuze is not blown. Assuming all the above have been tried and are OK, have you tried giving the pump body a sharp thump (bigger than a tap but not quite as big as a good clout) in case the pressure switch is stuck? N
  12. If the makers or vendors are not willing to put their name on it, I know which end of the quality spectrum I would expect it to be. That said it might be 'overrun production' from a Chinese maker of non Chinese top name stuff. Oink Oink, flap, flap. N
  13. Being pedantic,that is not chipboard. It is OSB, which is much less prone to damp getting in and turning it all to Weetabix. It is still not as durable as decenf ply though. One has to ask though why some previous owner replaced some of it. The best solution would be an all-new ply floor. That said, you could 'overplate' the uneven floor with some thin, say 4mm, ply and that will give you an even base on which to build a parquet floor, assuming you are using proper parquet blocks and not the modern thin layer imitations. For modern stuff you will need a thicker layer. Say 6 or even 9 mm. Whichever, do use waterproof ply (WBP grade). N
  14. Like many things,I expect it depends on which epoxy. It would certainly be worth a little research to find an epoxy coating that is chip resistant. My Epidac 2PE seems to be tough stuff so, despite about 5000 hours boating in the last 10 years, including all the BCN, the coating was intact everywhere except the rubbing strakes when surveyed last year. It has gone rather grey where visible. Unfortunately it contains coal tar, and is consequently now banned for all practical purposes. A harder grade of "pure" epoxy, as opposed to the epoxy modified pitch of Epidac may well behave differently. The Camrex we used to trowel onto war canoe flight deckswas certainly prone to chipping if attacked by hard metal objects. That said I would still go with a tough epoxy, provided I was not intending to sell up in the next 10 years or so. I would then budget for an underwater exam every 5 years. N
  15. BEngo

    K2 gearbox oil

    If it is leaking badly either the white metal bearing/oil seal in the clutch thrust box has had its days, or the shaft is misaligned. Drain it through the little plate at the back below the shaft. Refill as MtB suggests. N
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